FYI Williamson Rock 2018

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Messages 21 - 39 of total 39 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
10b4me

Social climber
Lida Junction
Aug 1, 2018 - 07:38am PT
this

Unfortunately, they have observed climbers violating the closure on many occasions (fortunately this has been only a few offenders).

Still, this activity has damaged climbers' credibility to self regulate. As a result, it has made it more difficult to negotiate a re-opening (and the terms of a re-opening).
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Aug 1, 2018 - 12:23pm PT
what 10b4me and sketchy said.

a well known local was helo'd out of Willy about 6 weeks ago when he slipped on the descent and blew a knee. Hard to fly your poach under the radar when something like that happens...
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 1, 2018 - 12:48pm PT
Hard to be gangsta when yer body is suburbanite. 😉
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Aug 1, 2018 - 01:03pm PT
Sewellymon, I talked to said Williamson slip and fall guy a week ago, I was surprised to find out nobody said boo to him about being in a closed area. He was hoisted out to the road and elected to have his partner drive him to the hospital.
I haven't been in there since the last lapse in the closure notice which normally happens for a few weeks every year. This latest closure notice however was not the usual one year closure, I think they made it a 2 or 3 year closure which eliminates any lapse time each year. I'll be at the meeting on the 11th at the Arcadia office. Lets get some people out to show some support.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Aug 1, 2018 - 01:04pm PT
It'd be nice if they'd tell us where the meetings are to be held and what time.

I found this.

Credit: Ksolem
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Aug 1, 2018 - 01:26pm PT
Bat -"said Williamson slip and fall guy"

ha ha.. dood been poaching there for years. ever since things eased up.
ATG

Big Wall climber
Santee, CA
Aug 1, 2018 - 01:39pm PT
It would be cool if the land could be purchased. I think fee based climbing in urban areas like Williamson makes sense.
It reminds me of the swimming pools around the Needles and Dome Rock; people are trashy.
I know, its Kalifornia.

Williams is So. CALS premier sport climbing.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Lassitude 33
Aug 1, 2018 - 02:03pm PT
To address some of the comments supra ^^^

Just because people have not been cited nor any "visible" consequences, don't be fooled that the violations go un-noticed. Neither should anyone conclude that such behavior has no negative side effects when trying to get the area re-opened. The truth is otherwise.

Climbers are not the only group of "stakeholders" who have a voice or may take action against a proposed re-opening. Such behavior has done little to help gain a sympathetic ear of these other stakeholders.

Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Aug 1, 2018 - 02:34pm PT
The Allied Climbers of San Diego and the Access Fund are looking into the DEIS. An Access Fund representative will be present at the meeting on the 11th. If you want a direct link to the document with the meeting dates/times/locations:

https://www.fs.usda.gov/nfs/11558/www/nepa/97680_FSPLT3_4395481.pdf

If you would like to give any constructive feedback, please let us know. I suspect that we have lost the London and Stream Wall for the forseable future to protect the endangered species and that our biggest point of contention will be the size and scale of the raptor closure, but we haven't finished reading through the document and analyzing it yet.

Josh Higgins
President, Allied Climbers of San Diego
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Aug 9, 2018 - 07:45am PT
This just in:

https://www.lazoo.org/2018/05/mylf/
i-b-goB

Social climber
Nutty
Aug 9, 2018 - 11:40am PT
Outstanding Tony, ribit, ribit!
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Aug 10, 2018 - 06:40am PT
A note of great encouragement here--

I attended the meeting last night in Acton. There were about 20 of the public there and six from the Forest Service. Things seem to have gone from night to day. The meeting was fairly informal and people were encouraged to speak out. We were listened to at length and there was much back-and-forth, both in the general meeting and personal conversations.

I encourage all climbers to attend the second meeting, Saturday at the Forest Service office in Arcadia.

The Forest Service is considering four options in administering this area in the future. It's important to understand the details, and I was just getting acquainted with them through this first meeting. You'll find the documents online, but if you're interested in Williamson you'll want to ask questions and Saturday will be the golden opportunity to do so. Two of the Forest Service people are themselves rockclimbers.

I was told to pay particular attention to their Option #3 in the plan--this seems to be the one they're leaning toward, and it will involve re-opening Williamson with restrictions. There is serious consideration of an online permit system, especially for weekend climbing, to prevent the area from becoming overcrowded.

The business of the frog and the falcon nest is getting serious attention, but it's encouraging that their staff biologist is one of those climbers, and he's willing to address the technicalities of the scientific issues which, to say the least, are complex. A woman from the Center for Biological Diversity was there as well. Many of the issues I've talked about were raised, but the meeting managed to remain cordial, and that was wonderful.

The Forest Service at last seems to appreciate the importance of this climbing area to all of us Southern California climbers. This is our chance to be involved in their decision for its future. They are soliciting written comments up until Sept. 10.

Thanks to Lauri Kinney for her moral support in attending this meeting with me, and cheers to Jack Marshall for coming and lending his considerable knowledge of the area to the discussion.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Aug 10, 2018 - 07:49am PT
thanks for the updates Tony. I wanted to attend but there was no way for me to reschedule work obligations.
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Aug 10, 2018 - 11:08am PT
Another excuse ^^^^ lol ;)
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Aug 10, 2018 - 06:57pm PT
I will add that there's a curious procedure involved, about which Andrew Lichtman has enlightened me.

Basically, the Forest Service wants to limit "input" in the final part of this process to those who have become involved at the beginning. In other words, if you don't officially give them some comment--and I'm assuming written comment, since no one's really taking notes of the discussion--by Sept. 10, you won't be allowed to comment on the final decision when it's made.

Seems like plain bureaucratic nonsense to me, but Andrew is familiar with it and it even has a name: "exhaustion of administrative remedies".
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Aug 12, 2018 - 07:22am PT
A note on the Arcadia meeting yesterday--

It was mostly question-and-answer, with a good turnout of about 50 people. Climbers I knew included Kris Solem, Ben Chapman, Pam Neil, Andrew Lichtman, Randy Vogel and the couple who runs Stronghold, who also attended the Acton meeting.

The sweetest words I heard were from Jeffrey Vail, Forest Supervisor: "I think this closure has gone on too long."

Study the plans. Get your comments in by Sept. 10. Jose, the ranger in charge of this project, says there will be another meeting when they have firmed up the final plan.
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Aug 12, 2018 - 09:07am PT
only 49 people, and a Chipper/manufacture lol Not a very strong showing of support for Willy.
xCon

Social climber
909
Aug 12, 2018 - 09:16am PT
you know theres another threads for that discussion...
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Aug 12, 2018 - 09:21am PT
True but with all the rules that are going to be imposed, I'm out.
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