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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 16, 2018 - 05:13pm PT
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You always believed in me, for that I thank you with all that I am. . .df
Edit, certified? Dude was a StoneMaster. . .df
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johntp
Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
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Jul 16, 2018 - 05:21pm PT
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What?? Is this the Charles Cole who helped revolutionize sticky rubber?
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2018 - 05:21pm PT
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Founder of 5.10. . .
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Tony Puppo
climber
Bishop
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Jul 16, 2018 - 05:24pm PT
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So sad to hear this.
We worked with Charles' rubber from the beginning. A true pioneer in the industry and the climbing world.
My sincere condolences to his family and friends.
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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Jul 16, 2018 - 05:28pm PT
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My sincerest condolences to family, friends and the climbing community. RIP Charles.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Jul 16, 2018 - 05:32pm PT
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missed meeting him by a few minutes,
but his folks were super cool and fitted me with bargain blems.
they totally understood the situation.
so sorry, many must be suffering
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jul 16, 2018 - 05:39pm PT
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No Absolute Way! He's like way younger than I am. Please, what happened?
If this is true, so very sorry! Last saw Charles at the Indian Wells, CA tennis tournament with his wife and kids. Oh man.....
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2018 - 05:40pm PT
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Lynnie, it's unfortunately true, possibly a stroke or heart attack. . .
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johntp
Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
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Jul 16, 2018 - 05:41pm PT
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Damn. Never met Charles but I'll share a story.
BITD I was bouldering at Rubidoux. I don't remember the place well enough to recall the problems there. I was maybe 23. Some young cutie (maybe 19 yo) pulls up in a car driven by her mom, and comes up and does some boulder problems. We chatted a bit, then she went back to the car and her & mom drove to another turnoff.
I ran around the hill as young men will do to catch her at the next stop. We chatted a bit more and she mentioned she was a friend/relative of Charles. I walked her back to the car; her mom sussed me up, gave me the evil eye and drove away. Never saw her again.
Condolences to those that new Charles well.
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2018 - 05:46pm PT
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Charles lent me his Pentax 6x7 twenty years ago to make StoneNudes. At least once a year he would call me up and ask me to bring him the camera, I would drive from wherever I was to Redlands and walk into his office. Charles would tell me to put the camera back into the car and go to lunch with him. . .df
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jul 16, 2018 - 05:49pm PT
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I never had the pleasure of meeting Charles Cole, but I always had a lot of respect for his company, 5.10.
My condolences to his friends & family.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Jul 16, 2018 - 05:50pm PT
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So sorry to hear this sad news.
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Jul 16, 2018 - 05:58pm PT
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That's no good. A local Redlands guy. Last I heard of him, he was playing tennis with my dentist.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jul 16, 2018 - 06:00pm PT
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Have to say I'm stunned, actually tears, tho I didn't know Charles really well. It's just that like at my house last night with my grand kids looking at pictures of their grandpa Dan, Charles grand kids will go thru his pictures some day saying, "I sure wish I could have met Grandpa."
Dang, life is so very hard at times, short and hard with some handfuls of glorious good times with friends and family scattered through like golden, green and red sparklers sizzling with fun .... then out.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jul 16, 2018 - 06:04pm PT
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WoW, 63! that's. . . way to young
blessings & light
Really sad to hear , (?)
he was so inspiring, with a never say no kind of swagger ....
Any one know/saying what happened ?
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ec
climber
ca
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Jul 16, 2018 - 06:08pm PT
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‘condolences...
 ec
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Jul 16, 2018 - 06:17pm PT
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Though we hadn't really spoken for many years, when I heard about this last night, I recalled the many routes we did together in the 1980s and the fun we had doing them.
It was Charles' standard poodle "Gus" who inspired the first (of many) "Poodle" route names (Poodles are People Too). Substituting "Poodle" into some well known, difficult, or pretentious route names, yielded surprisingly funny results. That same day, we managed 4 other FA's at Joshua Tree, such were the opportunities still available within a short stroll of the road.
Fred, at Tahquitz Rock, was another great line I had the pleasure of climbing with Charles. The last route we climbed together was on Cosmos, where I remember my smaller frame and spindly arms no match for the crushing big wall racks and trying to remove the pins and copperheads beat so powerfully by his massive arms.
In addition to being infamous for not loaning his gear, Charles actually would stamp his gear "CC" and mark it "Not For Loan." So zeolous was Charles in protecting the unauthorized use of his gear, that several items from my rack "inadvertently" were swept up in the marking frenzy. Somewhere, among my items of retired protection are a few that still bear "CC" - see below.
Rest in Peace Charles.
Gib Lewis, Maria Cranor, Dan Hershman & Charles
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johntp
Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
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Jul 16, 2018 - 06:27pm PT
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It was Charles' standard poodle "Gus" who inspired the first (of many) "Poodle" route names (Poodles are People Too). Substituting "Poodle" into some well known, difficult, or pretentious route names, yielded surprisingly funny results. That same day, we managed 4 other FA's at Joshua Tree, such were the opportunities still available within a short stroll of the road.
I always thought 'Poodles are People Too' was a great route name. Climbed it just for the name.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 16, 2018 - 07:15pm PT
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Another one of the smartest guys in the room has left us and we are less for it.... RIP, though I know he wont! Always thinkng and always doing... Adios mentor and friend. Best thoughts going out to his great family and many friends... F*#k...such a bummer.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jul 16, 2018 - 07:21pm PT
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So sad to hear this. Charles was a good friend once. We had a falling out, but always hoped to shake his hand again. Shocked and still in some disbelief. Among his many talents, he was a great big wall climber. RIP, CC3.
—John Middendorf
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jul 16, 2018 - 07:37pm PT
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Never had the pleasure, but his accomplishments in climbing speak volumes. My profound sympathies to his family and many friends.
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Hubbard
climber
San Diego
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Jul 16, 2018 - 07:45pm PT
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Reading his account of soloing Half Dome in a climbing magazine left a wild impression.
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Jul 16, 2018 - 08:08pm PT
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Wow, we are sorry to hear this sad new. RIP and condolences to his family and friends.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 16, 2018 - 08:55pm PT
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much respect
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
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Jul 16, 2018 - 09:07pm PT
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What???
He wasn't much older than me, as I recall. We only climbed together once (at Margaritaville) but I saw him all the time. Very sad to hear.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jul 16, 2018 - 09:08pm PT
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Rest in peace, Charles. (Who will remain forever 'Chuck' to me…or Chuckles.)
Charles and I on the Flakes, 1974.
During the first ascent of The Flying Circus (5.11d A4) in 1978 with Robs and Ricky…
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Bob Palais
Trad climber
UT
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Jul 16, 2018 - 09:56pm PT
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Jimmie Dunn let me know just a while ago. We were planning to go to the ranch next week. There aren't words to capture the loss and our sympathies to those who knew and loved him. Charles was a gracious host, and an original, creative, genius and never afraid to attempt progress beyond his previous realms of expertise. Each time we met It was a great treat to hear his latest discoveries of novel implications of general relativity to astrophysics (figure attached). I felt fortunate to attend some of his last "seminars" along with Jimmie in Dinosaur with Charles and Laura last year, including some great rides and hikes during the breaks; and then when he visited my Dad's in Irvine, where he would always help with anything that he could.
I'll also never forget the First time I "met" Charles. My first time to Half Dome NW with John Gilardi in '84, we couldn't locate the start. Fortunately there was someone (Charles) soloing a route to the right (Queen of Spades). Much as we didn't want to disturb him, and feeling really incompetent, I yelled `Excuse me, do you know where the start of the NW Face is?' In a friendly voice, he replied `Below the Bay Tree!' which was just what we needed to be off to a memorable climb.)
I will miss his warmth and passion for discovery, and his appreciation of his family and friends.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 16, 2018 - 09:58pm PT
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Charles Cole III was right at the heart of a very solid and long-standing community comprising our Southern California tribe.
This is a real shot not across our bow, but right into the boat. Though he had to have had plenty of work stress running his business over the last 30+ years, Charles was essentially a clean liver and if he can go like this, the memo is: get your affairs in order, because any one of us is next.
When I was still just a punter, early 1979, Charles was one of the first of the Southern California Stonemaster acolytes to welcome me into the fold. He was hanging out in the monument by himself, before all the weekenders arrived, sporting that kelly green Porsche 914, and needed a partner. We climbed Loose Lady and that evening I enjoyed my first fireside social with Charles and the more established climbers with whom he was intimate: Maria, Mike and Mari. It was an exciting time, just after the FA of Figures on a Landscape, and there were stories of riding bicycles out to the Grey Giant.
In the mid-80s, after it was clear that my frostbite injuries had really taken me down a notch in terms of the future prospects for my free climbing ambitions, at one of those many Todd Gordon reveries, Charles took me aside and suggested that he thought I was embittered, and tactfully recommended trying not to go down that road. This was a very avuncular move on his part: well-meaning, and quite useful to my maturation as an individual.
Though he didn't really party, he was fun to party with and had quite the wit! At some frolic, the exact location and attendees lost to memory, there was a young woman wearing a skirt made from strips of reflective mylar. He pointed her out, turned to me and said: "Hey, Roy, can you see yourself in that skirt?"
He was also a man who could take a joke. One way of getting his goat, because he came from well-heeled stock, was to conflate his name with that of the Gilligan's Island character, Thurston Howell III. On a Sunday night, after a typical full value weekend, well over a dozen of us including The Gargoyle and Largo for sure, and God knows who else, seems like pretty much everyone, sitting together as one team, one family at a great big table in a restaurant, with Gargoyle running a cassette recorder, I walked up to the group, approached Charles right there in front of everyone and fully belted out the line often uttered by the blueblood TV character Thurston: "Love-ey! Where's my Teddy?"
No one laughed harder at that than Charles himself.
Damn, Chuck (to my memory, very few of us openly called him that…knowing full well he probably wouldn't like it) we truly are going to miss you!
Via con Dios,
Roy Boy
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jul 16, 2018 - 10:41pm PT
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A sad day for the climbing world. I don't really know what to say. Spent a lot of time with Charles on and off the crags. I am very sad. Strength and peace to his wife and kids.
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onyourleft
climber
So Oregon
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Jul 16, 2018 - 10:50pm PT
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I was fortunate enough to meet Charles at one of his earliest shops, off Lankershim in North Hollywood. Charles himself resoled my original Fires with first generation 5.10 rubber. When I picked them up, he showed me a prototype for his own shoe, the Vertical (with the accent on the "cal")
I really admired him for his genius in recognizing a trend with a need and filling it with his own innovation.
A loss for sure. RIP
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Jul 16, 2018 - 10:52pm PT
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Reading his account of soloing Half Dome in a climbing magazine left a wild impression. If I remember correctly at one point to make upward progress Charles chimneyed way up behind a flake and dropped a rope out a small window. He then went back down the chimney and jugged up the rope on the outside wall. Genius!
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Jul 16, 2018 - 11:08pm PT
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Sad to hear this. I can remember when Charles brought the first pair of prototype Five Tennies out to Joshua Tree, that he had glued together in his garage. Great things were to come from the invention of Stealth Rubber.
I have fond memories of climbing with Charles at Joshua Tree and Idyllwild. In the summer of 1985, over several weekends, we put up a route on Tahquitz called Scarface, one of the most demanding slab pitches up there at the time.
Back in that ground-up era there was no one better than Charles at running it out, stopping at some marginal stance, and hand drilling a bolt- no one. A lost art.
Charles had a genius intellect, a wonderful sense of humor, and a gravitas that made him so fun to hang out with. But what I remember most was his smile and his laugh.
Condolences to his friends and family.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jul 16, 2018 - 11:25pm PT
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hey there say, ... i did not know charles... very sad to hear he died so young...
thank you for teaching us, that didn't know of him, so we can appreciate him...
my condolences, to his loved ones and family...
:(
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Juanito
Social climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 16, 2018 - 11:42pm PT
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Another sad day...
I'll never forget one day way back when... in the middle of the drive to Tahquitz a friend told me about a new pair of tennis shoes that had sticky rubber on them that were called... get this... Five Tennies. That was the first time I heard about Charles Cole.
Years later, 5.10 sponsored me as a rock climber. A while later, I switched to Boreal as my sponsor. Later still, I began doing some of the graphic design and photography for 5.10. That he never held my switching allegiance from his company to his competitor was something I always admired and secretly thanked him for. 5.10 was one of my first steady clients and Charles was always a character to work for and with.
During one visit to the shop in Redlands, he pulled out my quote for photography. He looked at my rate - which was something like $1,500 at the time - and did some math. "Let's see... $1,500 times 261 work days in a year comes out to $421,000. That's way too much money. You must be rich." I don't know if he was serious or not. I vaguely remember trying to explain that there's no way I work anywhere near that much (my rusted out 77 Honda CVCC was evidence of that), but he was already onto the next thing.
Charles was one of those guys who was always positive. He was smart and thoughtful though so you weren't going to get anything past him. Though he had his successful company, wife, kids, big house, he never stopped being playful. Somewhere I have a photo of him that I took at a costume shop of him wearing a Napoleon style hat and mucking it up for the camera. It's a perfect portrait of him: Imperial but playful.
And oh yeah, what a climber too. RIP Charles Cole.
John Mireles
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ron gomez
Trad climber
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Jul 17, 2018 - 01:59am PT
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Condolences to his family. Charles was always very friendly when we were together...go back to the late 70's, Josh, when it was a small crew in Hidden Valley on the weekends. Dave Kassell, my thought, prayer and condolences to you and your entire family. Far too many friends are passing.
Peace
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Tom Patterson
Trad climber
Seattle
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Jul 17, 2018 - 05:45am PT
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Oh, man...this is really sad news.
While I'm sure I bumped into him at Joshua Tree many times (late 70s, early 80s), my only memorable conversation with him was over the phone. I was in grad school, and got wind of this new rubber compound that was changing the game. I tracked down the number and called him up, as I wanted to resole my EBs.
Charles spent nearly an hour and a half on the phone with me, so stoked was he about this new compound. His enthusiasm was palpable. I asked him a ton of questions, and he told me pretty much every step of his journey along the way. He didn't need a whole lot of priming.
I still have those EBs with the original resole job from one of his kits. I'm feeling even more sentimental about them now than before.
Not only was 5.10 rubber a game changer for climbers (I felt like a fly after lacing up my EBs, having rested my car tires on them with my newly glued-on 5.10 rubber overnight), but he just impressed me as a really great guy.
Very sad news, and my sincere condolences to his friends and family.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Jul 17, 2018 - 06:45am PT
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Well, crap. Another Stone Master? I never met him, but I feel like I've lost someone important. I probably crossed paths with him at Josh back in the day without knowing it, but between his name in the guide and the rubber on my feet, he was always around, an important figure and guide and helper. Does he now cavort with the Cosmic Poodle? Time for some more C4 on the ol' TC Pro's. Sincere condolences to all his friends and family.
BAd
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i-b-goB
Social climber
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Jul 17, 2018 - 08:43am PT
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Condolences, Charles is around my age, too young! But his Five Ten rubber brought the climbing community a high step foreword!
I got his original tan/green 5 Tennie approach shoes from his warehouse in the SFV.
I would resole every climbing shoe with his rubber and was the better for it!
Roy your Thurston Howell III story was too funny, but he was more of the Professor!
R.I.P. Charles!
Matt
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Jul 17, 2018 - 09:09am PT
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Dam,, way to young
Condolences to Family..
Thanks for the stories Friends
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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Jul 17, 2018 - 09:15am PT
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when i first met charles i remember that he and his family lived in a mansion near mt paremts home in chapman woods calif.
after a failed business investment they lost everything, charles came up with the rubber concept and started five ten....eventually employing his family and rebuilding their financial status,
During this time he was establishing some pretty wicked big wall routes in yosemite with steve grossman and many times solo. charles was the smartest business guy that i ever met...a great inventor and engineer that helped define our sport.
condolences to family and rip my friend
so much respect
EE
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Jul 17, 2018 - 09:27am PT
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Sad news.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jul 17, 2018 - 09:46am PT
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That's one hell of a disturbance in the Force.
Charles was the most nakedly competitive climbers I've ever met.
Condolences to his family.
Here's that Queen of Spades article from Mountain, though it now lacks the excellent photos from the second ascent by Blanchard and Plunkett.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jul 17, 2018 - 10:10am PT
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Interview with him once. He was thinking of maybe hiring me. North Hollywood shop on Lankershim. Cool guy. Great businessman.
I loved my 5.10s best since the first pair of the old guide tennies. All the way to today I am now a big Adidas fan. Thanks to his work.
May his next life be even better than the great life he just lived.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jul 17, 2018 - 10:11am PT
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^ that is one of my photos, I believe, Marty. Fish, Stretch, and CC3, the undisputed Camp 4 Chess champion. 1984 or 1985. Charles could beat almost anyone without even looking at the board (blindfold chess). I think Werner, Pat Ament, and somet8mes myself were of the few that could take him in an occasional game (I won perhaps 1 out of 8 games against him).
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jul 17, 2018 - 10:48am PT
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Thanks, John. I went back in and edited it.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jul 17, 2018 - 11:02am PT
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FiveTennies,the chisel bit 1/4 inch drill,Stealth rubber, Moccasymms, Queen of Spades, Fire Fingers....what a legacy!!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 17, 2018 - 11:16am PT
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Innovative guy...he will be missed by many.
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Jul 17, 2018 - 01:03pm PT
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Sad to hear, way too young, hug your friends and family.
Condolences to Charles' family and friends.
Besides his exploits as a climber and a businessman, he could really get after it in chess. Once in JT we set up 3 games of speed chess, Charles simultaneously playing three of us. He killed us, over and over again.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jul 17, 2018 - 01:48pm PT
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Sorry to hear about this.
On July 7 another climber, Geoff Creighton from Vancouver and about the same age, passed away suddenly. Kind of scary that even fit guys about my age are leaving.
I remember an old article about Charles' business and something about doing a lot of rubber research. Was he an engineer?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 17, 2018 - 02:42pm PT
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What a shock. Charles was way too young.
I used to hang out at the original San Fernando Valley shop. Every once in a while I'd get a pair of shoes to try out. Anyone here remember those super stiff edgers with the green rands?
Then there were those drives from Idyllwild through Mtn Center and on down to Hemet.
Charles had a way of popping up in my mind from time to time, even though I hadn't seen him for many years. The last time was at the Needles parking area.
I offer my sympathies to the family and friends of Charles. He certainly left a mark on our community and our sport.
I had an Andy Warhol moment sporting a pair of early Verticals in 1988...
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FBIII
Trad climber
Yosemite 25 years
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Jul 17, 2018 - 02:42pm PT
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No No No not another. I never got to play him chess. We only climbed together once. We were in a party of 3 and he was soloing while I led. I saw him do an amazing FA in the next couple days.
A friend told me he said he wanted to play me a game.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jul 17, 2018 - 02:56pm PT
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Floored to hear about this yesterday...What a guy...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 17, 2018 - 03:37pm PT
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Bummer, too young.
Thanks for all the cool gear and routes!
His Yosemite FAs:
Jolly Roger 5.10 A5 23 Charles Cole, Steve Grossman, 1979
False Shield 5.10c A4+ 6 Charles Cole, 1984
The Competitive Edge 5.10 A4 26 Charles Cole, Steve Grossman, 1984
Queen of Spades 5.9 A4 18 Charles Cole, 7/1984
Space 5.10 A4 28 Charles Cole, 1985
Autobahn - original attempt 5.10? 5 Charles Cole, ___, 1985?
The Deuceldike 5.9 R * 8 Charles Cole, Rusty Reno, John Middendorf, 4/1985
Autobahn 5.11d R ** 12 Charles Cole, Rusty Reno, John Middendorf, 4/1985
Crying for Mama 5.10a R/X 3 Charles Cole, John Middendorf, 1986
Right Guru Crack 5.10a * 1 Charles Cole, Rusty Reno, 1986
Tooth or Consequences 5.11b * 2 Charles Cole, Lidija Painkiher, 5/1986
Endorphine 5.11d 2 Charles Cole, Rusty Reno, 1987
Masquerade 5.11d R 1 Charles Cole, Rusty Reno, 1988
Firefingers 5.11b R ** 2 Charles Cole, et al
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 17, 2018 - 03:40pm PT
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Holy SH!t !!!!!
Oh MAnnnnn ... not good!
He was the MAN.
A real Bad Ass to the bone,
WOW ..... rip brother ...... condolences to family and friends.
He WILL be missed ..........
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Dougald
climber
CO
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Jul 17, 2018 - 06:56pm PT
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Deeply saddened to hear this. Charles was a great supporter of my endeavors in the magazine biz, both financially and, at least as importantly, with thoughtful advice and criticism. His mischievous smile was a gift. He was unafraid to try bold things on the rock and in design and business. Sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't, but he rarely backed down. At a trade show once I tried to ask him a serious journalistic question about some mysterious gel-like gewgaws adorning the side of a pair of new 5.10 approach shoes. "But what is their function?" I repeated. He fixed me with a pitying stare. "Their function is to look good," he said. Charles, thanks for being you.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Jul 17, 2018 - 07:01pm PT
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While I've never met him, I heard enough stories from Steve Grossman to give me a great sense of the man. What a bummer.
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Large Marge
Trad climber
CA
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Jul 18, 2018 - 12:09am PT
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I have never posted on the taco until now. Charles was the first person my friend Kelly and I met in the Socal climbing community in 1983 when we stumbled in to Jtree. After that, I met a lot of you and had many great experiences both climbing and otherwise. He was always energetic, fun and a bit daunting when he wanted debate. He frequently quoted Pee Wee's Big Adventure line "tell 'em Large Marge sent you" to me. I also have "if you don't trust your feet, you don't trust Charles Cole" ingrained in my brain forever.
I am truly sad that I won't have a chance to see him again. He was a major part of my early climbing experience and development. I hate this, but I love my memories.
Large Marge Floyd-Evans
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 18, 2018 - 04:36am PT
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Still can’t process this out of the blue, man!
“ heart attack, or stroke”
I have been motivated to refill my Lisinopril Rx - blood pressure med
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jul 18, 2018 - 05:25am PT
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Marge, I think we might have met briefly in La around 1984/5 or so? I travelled down from Yosemite to LA with Charles, and we visited a few of his friends, his parents, and his fledgling rubber/five-tennie shop. And we went mountain biking—Charles had one of the first ever mountains bikes, and I think we also went for a row on the water. Your name rings a bell, and I recall friends joining us for all those activities.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jul 18, 2018 - 05:27am PT
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(Clint, in your list above, Rusty Reno and Charles had done the first 10 or so pitches of Autobahn prior to Charles and my eventual first ascent all free to the summit).
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jul 18, 2018 - 06:03am PT
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Another story of Charles: he really deserves credit for a significant change in status of the Rescue team, in 1984/5. He would come to Yosemite for summers, and was a member of YOSAR—actually not sure if Charles was ever officially a member, but he knew John Dill well, worked on some rescues, and spent most of his time with the rescue guys.
He and I were playing chess in the Mountan Room—this was the multi-purpose room between the Mountain Room Bar and the gift shop. The Curry company (back then the Concessionaire was Curry and run by Ed Hardy) never liked climbers, hassled us often, and on this day, two of the Curry security goons approached us and told us we had to leave as we were not paying visitors of the hotel. There were only a few other people in the room at the time, a few hotel guests, some obvious backpackers organising gear on the floor, and us at a table playing chess.
We resisted leaving as we always did, but then they got very aggressive and escalated their haranguing. Frankly, because we were generally doing something a bit dodgy, like scarfing, drying wet clothes around the fire in the bar, occasionally dining and dashing, we would eventually generally give in and leave as we didn’t really wanted to get identified by these guys, who could and would actually cause an arrest.
But today, Charles was having none of it. It was his move, he simply said, “go away, we are busy and we have every right to be here in this public space in our National Park”, and also said to me, “Deuce, just ignore these guys”, so I did and we continued our game. The goons fumed and kept telling us we had to leave, but we did not engage any further, and eventually they went all red in the face and told us they were getting the rangers on us.
About half hour later, Gary Colliver and another ranger come in—a lucky break for us, as Gary was a long term Yosemite climber, and also someone we frequently worked with on rescues. I will never forget the expression on the Curry Goons’ face as they pointed us out to the rangers, full of glee that we were about to get arrested, when Gary friendly said, “John, Charles, what are you guys up to?”. We had all just done a rescue that week together, and we chatted about that for a while. Meanwhile, the goons were now fuming, red in the face, and about to blow a fuse.
Eventually, Gary said, “These guys really seem dead set on you leaving—perhaps it’s best you just go for now, and we will follow up with a meeting about it later”. It sounded fair to me, and we agreed.
I took it on from there (Charles had to leave for Korea for his five tennies business, I believe), and helped arrange a meeting between members of the rescue team and Ed Hardy, president of the Curry Company, who treated us to lunch at the Ahwahnee to discuss the issues with climbers. We agreed to help inform climbers of basic protocol around the concession facilities, and in exchange we got access to the shower facilities and a discount card for members of the rescue team. It was really the first acknowledgement of the rescue team from Curry, at a time when rangers who were friendly to the climbing community were a minority, and relations with Curry were extremely hostile.
If it wasn’t for Charles insisting on ignore, don’t engage, we would have probably have fallen foul to the escalation that typically took place in that kind of situation, and would have been forced to leave without cause. A good example of successful peaceful protest. Thanks, Charles!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 18, 2018 - 06:46am PT
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Charles Cole III, bolt testing in Camp 4 parking lot, mid-1980s.
Werner's 1967 Pontiac Le Mans is the extraction device:
Joshua Tree reunion, 2008.
The only time I ever saw Charles take a drink!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 18, 2018 - 07:33am PT
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Been offline for days, but Jimmy told me last night.
RIP
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Fogarty
climber
BITD
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Jul 18, 2018 - 08:20am PT
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Charles was always an inspiration, watching him gearing up in Yosemite for a big adventure or soloing in Josh with his Walkman on. I was fortunate to do my first two FA in Josh with him in the early 80’s. Condolences to his family and friends and enjoy that big wall in the sky.
✌️
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jul 18, 2018 - 08:34am PT
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In the early 1980s I was dead set on doing some big ocean kayak adventures and started putting in the time to learn what the hell we were doing. I got two boats and started begging anyone along I could so I didn't have to go it alone. Charles was always game but was busy with 5.10 so could only join the fun about once a month. When I decided to do a 50 miler along the California coastline Charles was there. Except it started storming down by Zuma and the sea got angry. I said the wise thing was to paddle in and Charles asked what we were supposed to do with the cars, which were fifty miles apart with us now in the middle. Better to keep going, he said. We had to go way out to sea to round the Zuma point and then fog rolled in and we weren't sure if we were still paddling along the coast or heading for Fiji. We used the sound of truck horns on PCH to navigate. When we finally got to Santa Monica we were cooked.
To me, that will always be Charles ... who always thought it best to keep going.
Happy travels, amigo. Hope to catch back up with you some day.
Your friend,
LARGO
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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Jul 18, 2018 - 09:04am PT
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i think that is werners car being used for the bolt testing
they were testing machine heads and one of them shot thru the license plate like a bullet
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Matt Sarad
climber
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Jul 18, 2018 - 09:47am PT
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I spoke to Charles on the phone just once. I had discovered 5.10 when looking for a resole on my Mariachers and called the number in the ad. Later, I bought a pair of red Royal Robbins at a yard sale for $10. I took them to the Kern Slabs for the 10d cracks. The original rubber kept slipping off so I bought some Stealth and had them resolved.
With the new rubber, I went from a 5.9 climber to a 10d climber in one afternoon.
Thanks Charles,
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T Bone
Gym climber
Telluride
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Jul 18, 2018 - 09:50am PT
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I took a bus to Yosemite in my late teens, 1981. I was at Swan Slab and there was a guy with some shoes I had never seen. I asked them about them and he said they were from Spain. He said you'l see them all over next spring.
Thank you Charles Cole!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 18, 2018 - 10:22am PT
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^^^^^^^^^
Pretty sure that is Bachar you are talking about...
I took a bus to Yosemite in my late teens, 1981. I was at Swan Slab and there was a guy with some shoes I had never seen. I asked them about them and he said they were from Spain. He said you'l see them all over next spring.
Thank you Charles Cole!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jul 18, 2018 - 12:00pm PT
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Rest well. Despite my complaints of construction issues with 5 tennies, he was without a doubt reapinsible for big jumps in my ability because, well, Stealth baby!!! Climbed in many a pair of 5.10s
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Jul 18, 2018 - 01:15pm PT
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Tamara called me last night concerning a climbing personality in her father’s life. I knew the guy she was inquiring about and gave her all I knew about him. Then she offhandedly asked if I knew a Charles Cole. I didn’t.
She didn’t elaborate on Cole other than he was a climber and we finished our conversation. This morning, here on ST, I discovered who Charles Cole was. Don’t know how someone as important to the climbing world as he was could have slipped past me over these many years.
I wrote a letter to Five Ten back in 1994 (see below). It was addressed to “To whom it may concern”. I wonder if he might have read my letter?
October 22, 1994
Five Ten
528 Amigos Dr, Suite D
Redlands, CA 92373
Re: A dilapidated pair of Five Tennies
To Whom It May Concern:
A while back I bought a pair of Five Tennies because TM Herbert was always beating me up Tuolumne approaches in his. What I didn't know was that his were an older vintage than mine and that my newer pair had some inherent flaws. Almost immediately the rand around the toes started to separate so I quit wearing them thinking that I might return them to the mountain shop in Tuolumne for a refund. But I didn't. Tony Puppo at Wilson's Eastside Sports gave me his prognosis - the shoes should be taken off life support. So I did it - quit using them.
This past summer I guided in the Sierra and I resuscitated the old Tennies and wore them until they finally died. The last two days of a week-long backpack trip my toes occasionally appeared through the rent that caused their death. I respectfully return the remains to their place of origin. May they rest in piece(s).
You folks should be ashamed of having released your progeny into this rough world without preparing them for the inevitable beating to which they most certainly would be exposed. It has been rumored that you are aware that some of your offspring were physically deficient and that subsequent generations have adequately evolved. Life goes on.
Respectfully,
Don Lauria
Epilogue:
Five Ten responded by presenting me with a brand new pair and an apology. Subsequently the replacement pair lived a full and respectful life, being resoled a couple of times (due to wear). Old age eventually caught up with them and they died peacefully at home surrounded by relatives.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jul 18, 2018 - 01:37pm PT
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I remember getting a pair of (Spanish) Boreal sticky sole shoes from Bachar back in the 1980s, pressing the soles together and then watching them grip as I turned the shoes upside down. I realize there were improvements to the rubber, but the impression from reading about Cole is that he invented the whole thing (not just Stealth soles). Am I in error?
No disrespect intended. I never met him.
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i-b-goB
Social climber
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Jul 18, 2018 - 01:46pm PT
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Yes jogill, Bachar brought Boreal Fire first and they were light years ahead of EB's then came 5 Ten rubber which was much better still, IMHO!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Climbing_shoe
I'm not sure what company came up with the first low-cut shoe first?
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Jul 18, 2018 - 02:38pm PT
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Beth Leebolt in the photo in Nancy’s article in R and I, not Elizabeth Cole. I had the pleasure of working with both of them during my time at 5.10. They are both wonderful women!
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James Wilcox
Trad climber
Goleta/Virginia Lakes
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Jul 18, 2018 - 02:40pm PT
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I remember just how incredibly enthusiastic Charles would get over other people climbing. One day at Suicide I teamed up with a person from Colorado to do Etude. Half way up you hit those thin, bottoming cracks running parallel to each other. Charles had been cruising by the base and saw my partner eyeing the crux sussing it out. As he hit the cracks Charles starts LOUDLY cheering him on. Sure enough, he pulled through first go, and Charles whooped it up like a mad dog. Everybody, even climbers on neighboring routes were smiling and laughing.
A few months later at JT we were in Conan’s Corridor doing True Grit. Only 5.9, but the first half is very hard to protect, with an absolutely heinous fall onto boulders if you blow the crux. Charles was a little more subdued as my friend pulled through the dicey part, but again cheered like a mad man once it was clear he had made it.
I always remember him for that. He could be just as happy when others succeeded.
RIP
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 18, 2018 - 02:49pm PT
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It saddens me to read about the passing of so many climbers younger than I. I didn't know him personally, but I certainly knew of him -- and bought many of his products. I feel for his family and friends.
I, too, remember the evolution of climbing shoe rubber. When we started using EB's in the early 1970's, we used to refer to them as "EB Super Cheaters" because their rubber had noticeably more friction than my PA's, RR's, and Kronhoffers that I'd used previously. Fires seemed magical compared with EB's. Then Five Ten came on the scene and even my holdout climbing partner finally had to admit the advantages.
Farewell, sir. You created something good and sold it for a fair price.
John
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Jul 18, 2018 - 03:18pm PT
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Charles‘s death has hit me harder than I would’ve ever imagined. I’ve been having a hard time deciding what to say about him. Luckily I’m stuck in Barstow for a couple weeks working and have some time to think about it.
For now I’m just gonna share one funny story. And don’t take this one wrong, Charles himself thought it was hilarious and loved to tell the story. I’m sure many of you have heard this one!
When Charles initially got hooked on climbing he knew that the big walls were in his future. He went straight out and bought a handful of pitons, probably from Sport Chalet. He grabbed a hammer and headed for the choss sandstone of Eagle Rock, which is pretty close to Pasadena. He took a lost arrow and the hammer and proceeded to try and drive the piton directly into the rock. Not into a crack mind you, he tried to drive it directly into the rock. Needless to say, no matter how hard he hit it it would not penetrate, even that crappy rock!
It wasn’t long before he figured out that pitons go into cracks. He proved that later in life by becoming a master at piton placements.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jul 18, 2018 - 03:37pm PT
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I note that the R&I obit mentions Charles' involvement on the FA of 'Run For Your Life' out at Josh…
While RFYL is a great route, I'd like to suggest that one of Charle's better efforts (for shorter SoCal routes) was our FA of 'Flying Circus' (5.11d A4) at Tahquitz… Rick Accomazzo, Charles, and I spent several consecutive weekends (four, maybe?) in August, 1978, putting up that two-ring Circus. http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1837937/Flying-Circus-at-Tahquitz-add-bolts
I recall that Charles, who already had some pretty strong cred in etriers, did some very tricky little bits on hooks to get us up to the rest-of-the-best free climbing on that route.
He was always super-stocked to just go for it!
Another Stonemaster done gone… RIP.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jul 18, 2018 - 04:14pm PT
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Another Charles story comes to mind.
One day Charles asked me if I wanted to do 50 routes with him in Joshua Tree the next day. Prior to this, Bachar had been doing “Half Dome days” (20 pitches), and El Cap days (30 pitches), all as solos, but Charles had an idea of doing both solos and some roped climbs, whatever was fastest and most efficient. He had it all planned out, which crags we would go to, where we would take a rope, where we would solo, all bike riding between crags. This was well before doing maximum routes became a “thing”, and nobody had ever done 50 routes in a day.
It was a super fun day, the routes averaged 5.10b, mostly solos, lots of miles traversed on both the horizontal and vertical. At route 47, we were passing through camp and Lechlinski and others were doing the evening mass solo of Left Ski Track. I opted to pause on the 50 routes and join the splleef session on the summit (but asked for a rope for the bottom part of Left Ski Track as I was pretty worn out). That was my day. Charles ran off and did another 3 routes. Then it was dark. Charles gave me quite a bit of ribbing for not completing the 50, but I was secretly glad he got all the glory as it was his idea. He later went extreme and I think did 100 routes in a day, and in the next few years Todd got into the game and I think got up to 200 routes in a day! For me it was good training, for Charles I think the achievement was the goal, even though he already had so many other more significant achievements to his credit. Yet another thing Charles started and inspired with his fun and competitive energy.
—————————
Edit—Note to Largo about the kayaking mentioned above— I will never forget that day I joined you and Charles sea kayaking in SoCal that day. I’d never done it before, you made it sound easy. Huge waves, you guys busted out right away and were surfing and having a grand time. I must have wiped out a dozen times trying to get my boat through the initial surf, meanwhile you guys were surfing the waves, cruising in and out and laughing at me. After a couple hours of getting munched and repeatedly dumping all the water out of my boat, I finally broke through and joined you in the deeper water. Then you guys immediately announced you were done and were heading in. I couldn’t believe it, as I was hoping to learn to surf! Super sandbag! But it was fun just to hang with you guys.
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chappy
Social climber
oakhurst
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Jul 18, 2018 - 05:27pm PT
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Difficult and shocking to hear this. Had a lot of fun with Charles. Great positive energy. He was at the top of my list of people I wanted to reconnect with. Unbelievable, really. A life well lived brother.
M
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 18, 2018 - 06:04pm PT
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Beth Leebolt in the photo in Nancy’s article in R and I, not Elizabeth Cole.
What ever became of Mike Leebolt. Man, I could tell you some wild and crazy tales hanging out with that guy. Among many talents, he's a great uni-cyclist.
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Mike Leebolt
Big Wall climber
Redlands, CA
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Jul 18, 2018 - 06:19pm PT
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I'm right here Kris.
As you well know, Charles was an important person in my life. Beth and I will gather our thoughts and post soon.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Jul 18, 2018 - 07:19pm PT
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He took a lost arrow and the hammer and proceeded to try and drive the piton directly into the rock. Not into a crack mind you, he tried to drive it directly into the rock.
😂
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AMB
climber
CA
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Jul 18, 2018 - 08:26pm PT
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Somebody may want to check this fact, but I'm pretty sure that Charles was the only person ever to do solo first ascents on both El Cap and Half Dome. The El Cap route is called Space, and I can't remember the Half Dome one which is near Arcturus/Regular route. R.I.P. Charles, you were always cool to me.
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Mike Leebolt
Big Wall climber
Redlands, CA
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Jul 18, 2018 - 08:40pm PT
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Queen of Spades
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JMC
climber
the land of milk and honey
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Jul 18, 2018 - 08:53pm PT
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Gone too young, I wish you had more time ahead of you on this mortal coil. Thank you Charles for your innovations. I think more than anything, his advancement in climbing shoes and rubber has had the biggest impact on climbing. (Well, other than mindset and removing perceptions of limitations, but that is another dimension entirely).
Favorite Five Ten shoes:
UFOs, 2nd gen. I bought these for $40 at the factory, from Reed Bartlett. Probably the peak of my physical ability in climbing too, another reason for why I loved them, and wished I had gotten a 2nd pair.
5.10 sandals/Teva style. sticky rubber sandals, what could be better? (genetic flaw, they kept splitting apart under the ball of the foot. Maybe that is why they were short-lived).
Velcro Anasazis. The best.
Mocasyms. 2nd best.
Newtons. After a series of Sportivas that didn't' fit me that well [took me a long time to realize or admit it], these opened the doors for me into what a good fitting shoe could do.
Mountain Masters. Best approach shoe I have ever owned - great blend of cushion, stickiness, and style.
Thank you again Charles. Bon Voyage.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 18, 2018 - 09:24pm PT
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I'm right here Kris.
kristianunderscoresolematverizon.net
I would like to get back in touch.
My sympathies are strong for the loss of Charles Cole. Sad days indeed.
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mynameismud
climber
backseat
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Jul 18, 2018 - 09:28pm PT
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Here's to sweat in your eye!!
God Speed and thank you for the shoes
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Esselte
Trad climber
Woodbridge, Tasmania
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Jul 19, 2018 - 01:25am PT
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RIP Charles, heartfelt condolences to your family.
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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
The Peaks
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Jul 19, 2018 - 01:58am PT
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Thought some might like this pic from 2008 in Germany.
Very sad loss and way too early.
Mick
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jul 19, 2018 - 06:41am PT
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AMB: For the record, Jimmy Dunn did the FA of Cosmos on El Cap, solo, back in 1972. Though, unlike Charles, he didn't do a solo FA on Half Dome.
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Mike Leebolt
Big Wall climber
Redlands, CA
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Jul 19, 2018 - 07:32am PT
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Alois
Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
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Jul 19, 2018 - 08:21am PT
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So sorry to hear this. I met Charles in J Tree in the early 80s. We were fighting with some 5.9 at Echo Rocks and Charles just scrambled up it. My partner Miguel knew him from hanging around his store in Redlands, so we chatted about all these pitches that he and a few others did daily in J Tree. In those days, 50 or so pitches in a day was some kind of climbing, we were impressed. He was such a nice guy. Over the years we saw him a lot in J Tree and he always remembered our names, very refreshing. I have done some climbing before his rubber compound hit the climbing world, and when it did, the difference was incredible. This man was a genius. RIP.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jul 19, 2018 - 10:06am PT
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So many great times with Charles; I will miss him. My thoughts go out to his family who must be devastated to lose him at this relatively young age.
I called Charles a couple of years ago after losing contact with him for some time. It was great fun to chat, just like the old days. He had sold the company and told me he was a now a serious tennis player. He delighted in telling me about his connection to Italy through his wife, and of their frequent trips there.
In the seventies, Charles was a blast to climb and hang with. He had a rapier wit and would rattle off puns, insults, and come-backs at a machine-gun rate. He would perform spot-on impersonations of leading Stonemasters that brought down the house around the JT campfire.
I last climbed with Charles in the seventies, probably in 1978 on our first ascent of Flying Circus at Tahquitz. As Rob mentioned above, Charles was a key part of that team and also took a couple of great photos of Rob and I in mid-air when we fell off the free climbing sections.
Gib Lewis climbed a lot with Charles, as they had a lot in common: both were engineering students, Gib at UCLA and Charles at USC. Both shunned the JT nightlife in order to climb all day. The two of them teamed up to do an X rated 5.11 traverse called New Wave that connects to the free climbing on Flying Circus. It is probably still unrepeated.
Then there was an epic spring attempt at the Wall of Early Morning Light by Charles and Gib which ended in a winter-like storm and a terrifying rain of house sized ice blocks, some of which narrowly missed them. They managed to traverse over to the Nose rather than continue trying to rappel the route, where the bulk of the ice was falling. On the upper Nose, they met a soloist hunkered down to try to wait out the storm. They both urged him to tie on with them. But he refused and they fought their way to the top without him. The soloist died of exposure in the next couple of days, a tragic tale told in Farrabee’s Death in Yosemite Book.
When the Access Fund held its board meeting at the Phoenix Bouldering contest in the nineties, I wasn’t climbing much. Charles was there to promote 5.10 and we met up during the bouldering contest. Charles insisted on seeing my score card, and he laughed at my pitiful point total.
True to form, he mocked me without mercy: “Oh, no! My idol has feet of clay!”
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JelloFellow
climber
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Jul 19, 2018 - 11:53am PT
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I think it was the second Snowbird contest (1989). I had an announcer lined up, but Charles was insistent he could do a better job, so I either turned the microphone over to him altogether, or split the duties between Charles and my other guy. At any rate, I do recall Charles doing a colorful job of commenting with some of the wit and tongue-in-cheek humor some of the posters here have mentioned.. Does anyone recall that event?
Aside from Snowbird, Charles was a long time fixture at the trade shows and always friendly whenever we bumped into each other in the aisles or when out to dinner with our respective crews.
He was a large presence that added positive energy to my life. Wish I’d gotten to know Charles better; glad to have gotten to know him tangentially, at least. My love and best hopes to his family and close friends.
Jeff
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jul 19, 2018 - 12:21pm PT
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I found this photo of KP's butt somewhere in my photo archive. Is that Charles on the moves on Borson's Wall at Rubidoux?
No pads, can't see the shoes (but probably EBs laying around there somewhere), most likely in the mid-Seventies…
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Kinobi
climber
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Jul 19, 2018 - 01:28pm PT
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Sentite condoglianze a Paola e famiglia.
Stupiti ed addolorati.
Emanuele Pellizzari e Famiglia Marcolin (Dino, Beppina, Marzia e Mauro)
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dave yerian
Trad climber
the parking lot
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Jul 19, 2018 - 05:13pm PT
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Charles passed before his time. We've now lost Bridwell, Robbins, Higgins many others and now Charles. We are only here on this planet for a short time. Let's not forget one another. Share life with each other, this moment is all we have. Best, Dave Yerian.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
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Jul 19, 2018 - 06:23pm PT
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Didn't know Charles the lll but saw him often at the crags...The first 60 went fast , the next 30 will take half as long...
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jul 19, 2018 - 06:48pm PT
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Good obit. I wish I could have met him
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jul 19, 2018 - 07:43pm PT
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Wow, Steve Anderson, howdy. Were you one of us so graced to be at the "Ash Gordon" party? I think you remember Dan and I and our kiddos.....how was the movie, advertisement industry?
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Jul 19, 2018 - 08:09pm PT
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Thanks Rick
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 19, 2018 - 08:19pm PT
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Robs,
Powell is guessing this is Lechlinski bouldering.
He's certain that's himself in the headband, and perhaps Charles watching.
Looks to me to be Mike, maybe.
Might you do a higher resolution scan?
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jul 19, 2018 - 08:29pm PT
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I've gathered a lot of info thru 8 years of climbing research. It seems Mike Lechlinski was a huge, but quiet presence in the climbing community.
Mari confirms this, Tarbuster.
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Jul 19, 2018 - 08:30pm PT
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5.10 Mountain Masters were my favorite approach shoes. I am still using a pair for approaches in Colorado!
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Risk
Mountain climber
Marooned, 855 miles from Tuolumne Meadows
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Jul 19, 2018 - 10:36pm PT
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I'm very sorry to hear this news. I spent the most wonderful afternoon with Charles in 1986. All YOSAR climbers were summoned to the firehouse, and I showed up too. The Kalatarian search was well underway and they needed teams of two to climb every potential west face route on Mt. Clark. I was the least capable and last selected for the team, and chosen to pair with Charles for our assignment. Others, please fill in who all was there; Werner and Walling were along, I recall. Maybe Tarbuster? It was a party. We were flown to the base (normally an overnight approach) and sauntered from the LZ to the shear face, where each team spread out. Our climb was virgin because there were were too many rocks and flakes that needed to be cut loose just to safely proceed.
Charles was such a great partner and great person, understanding and patient that I was not some super climber, but could follow and clean quickly. Half way up, Kalatarian was located, so the remainder was all just pleasure climbing on one of Yosemite's most beautiful peaks. We took our time. About 8 pitches up we topped the ridge ahead of some of the other teams. It was great climbing, about 5.8 - 5.9. My memory of that afternoon with him stands out like the pinnacle among so many other great times back then. Thanks, Charles!
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Spencer Lennard
Trad climber
Williams, Oregon
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Jul 19, 2018 - 10:59pm PT
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Powerfully disturbing news.
I can easily recall the first early year Charles showed up at Hidden Vallley campground as the big, somewhat clueless new guy. He was nice, smart, enthusiastic, not a skilled climber in those days....but obviously motivated to try anything. Charles arrived every weekend In completely filthy clothing and seemed to clean spend much of the days following around the strong boulderers (Mike, Mari, Largo, Bachar, etc) and the evenings playing speed chess with Ricky at the picnic tables.
I once made the mistake trying to talk politics with Charles back then and discovered that we were coming from diametrically orientation and he was relentlessly committed to his side.
Charles (though obviously dealing with a lifelong inner torment, like so many others) was kind, compassionate and very big hearted.
He will be missed and was a gigantic and an unforgettable element of what made our climbing community cohesive.
Rest In Peace brother!
Spencer
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Jul 20, 2018 - 05:07am PT
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So sorry to hear of his passing. CC3 was distinctly a person that helped guide free climbing into the modern era.
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Mike Leebolt
Big Wall climber
Redlands, CA
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Jul 20, 2018 - 08:09am PT
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jul 20, 2018 - 09:27am PT
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From the Camp 4 “topo” book...
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jul 20, 2018 - 09:31am PT
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Anyone have a better copy of Charles classic El Cap and Half Dome commentary?
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jul 20, 2018 - 12:18pm PT
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There was good music on the am radio during the seventies, but then there was disco.
John Travolta starred in "Saturday Night Fever" in 1977 and for a span of several years, disco infected popular culture like a bad cold.
We always cursed and changed the channel when it came on the car radio.
Here are Charles and Gib on an x/c ski trip to Sequoia NP around that time.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jul 20, 2018 - 01:09pm PT
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Damn, Rick, that gives new meaning to the Brothers Gibb!
I went searching for a LA Times profile that the elder Odenthal wrote on Charles but all I could find was this Getty Images link. I seem to remember a Rock and Ice or Climbing mag profile as well. It had a great and terrifying anecdote about him, solo, contemplating the final summit mantel after nailing a precarious nest of downward sloping pins.
What hasn't been said is that Charles could live--and climb--on the very worst diet imaginable. If I'm remembering what he told me right, he did Space almost entirely on Skittles and Coke with some Gatorade for variety, and topped out in full summer sun with water to spare.
Climbers respected him; Little Debbies feared him.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Jul 20, 2018 - 04:34pm PT
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I just got home and thought I’d better check the records to see when I first climbed with Charles.
It was in July 1978 a party of five of us on Tahquitz.
We did El Camino Real to Pearly Gates 5.10a
Mike Lechlinski, Mari Gingery, Craig Fry, Charles and I.
After that he shows up in the records regularly.
Our first FA together was with Randy Vogel as well. On Tahquitz again.
Lik’en To Lichen 5.10b. June 1980
We climbed El Capitan together in June 1982.
Aquarian Wall (3days)
I remember finding a rattlesnakes rattle in a film canister when we bivvied at the base before we started, still have it.
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Homer2
Trad climber
Winters,CA
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Jul 20, 2018 - 09:16pm PT
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Nothing mentioned on the adidas/ five ten site noting Charles passing. Not classy at all....
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Bob Palais
Trad climber
UT
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Jul 21, 2018 - 03:46am PT
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RIP Charles Cole. I will always remember you, and always remember when we climbed ‘New Dimensions’ in 1985. I’ll always be impressed with how easily you walked up it wearing your new Five Tennies. Thank you for being so kind to my family and me over the years. I can’t help but wonder what new amazing ideas you would have come up with because you never stopped being creative and innovative your whole life. Where ever you are keep crankin bro. Jimmie Dunn.
I am relaying this from Jimmie Dunn along with a photo of Jimmie in happier times last week wearing FiveTen shoes on and off the rock at Turkey Rock and about to head back to Dinosaur for a visit with Charles when he got the sad news. He sounds really shaken by the loss.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 21, 2018 - 06:03am PT
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^^^
Charles was a Whimsical Dreamer, who made them reality.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 21, 2018 - 10:35am PT
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I don’t remember when I first met Charles it was way before five ten, the company.
I always appreciated his sense of humor and direct approach. And later of course, the rubber.
One day the Colonel and I were fixing pitches on Mescalito. Up the hill was Charles’ Project. What would become the route Space, I believe. I don’t remember the details now but someone had stolen a bunch of his gear from it, or something like that. We were on the ground, getting ready to split for the day and I see Charles walking up the hill, shades, light pack and ubiqtuous yellow all weather Walkman, cords jacked into his ears.
We nod, but he’s all business. He hunches over to us, pulls out an earphone, and says,
“If you see anyone up there f*#king with my sh#t, Kill, em!”
Then he replaced the earphone, and sauntered on up the trail to check on his lines.
RIP and cheers Charles! Thanks for the good times in the valley, josh, trade shows, the Phoenix bouldering contest, and wherever else. And for the rubber and the inspiration!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 21, 2018 - 12:02pm PT
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PBC 90
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sunnyside
Big Wall climber
earth
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Jul 21, 2018 - 05:11pm PT
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RIP Charles,
I am grateful to have met you at such a young age. At the sunny side slabs bouldering. The session eventually turned into a quest to climb our first Big Walls. Half Dome was the objective and within a few weeks Charles had convinced me to take on such an endeavor. After that, after I moved to Boulder, Colorado, I would visit the Valley at least a couple times of year. He seemed to always be there, it was his source of creativity perhaps. Visiting YOSAR, partying with the boys, for me. Anyways Thanks for the Inspiration..
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sunnyside
Big Wall climber
earth
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Jul 21, 2018 - 05:19pm PT
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Thanks Charles for all the enlightenment.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jul 23, 2018 - 04:10pm PT
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Bump. (Just to move the man and his memory back to the front page…)
RIP.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 23, 2018 - 05:47pm PT
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xCon:
he was in prototypes of those black slipper things The FiveTen Friction Loafer.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Jul 23, 2018 - 10:25pm PT
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this is terrible news. charles was a leader in big wall soling back in the day. his queen of spades on half dome, and space on el cap are among the hardest routes in the valley. i have wisely stayed away. knew chuck from back in the day, we were friends, and competitors after the first one day nose solo. i used his system on my first failed attempt, before blanchard took mercy on me and developed the silent partner for my next attempt.
charles, i'm sad to see you go so early. we all appreciate the sticky rubber and inspiration. take care in the beyond. condolences to family and friends. steve schneider
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cdf
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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Jul 24, 2018 - 05:45am PT
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Awful news. RIP
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Mike Leebolt
Big Wall climber
Redlands, CA
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Jul 24, 2018 - 09:43am PT
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Bob Palais
Trad climber
UT
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Jul 24, 2018 - 06:18pm PT
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Some pictures from Charles' place near Dinosaur.
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Dimes
Social climber
Retired from Everything
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Jul 24, 2018 - 06:48pm PT
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The Evolution to Five Tennies.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
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Jul 24, 2018 - 09:00pm PT
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Sounds like Charles lived a full life and left on a high note...good on you Mr. Cole...my condolances to the people who are missing him at this moment...
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 25, 2018 - 08:39pm PT
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Sad, terrible news. Charles was one of the most gifted, smart, happy and unique person I have had the good fortune to know and climb with. As others have pointed out he made a mark in climbing that will not be duplicated.
Charles did live on junk food but he was very picky about his junk food. On one trip I made with him we needed to stop at Burger King for the burger, MacD for fries and Taco Bell for bean and cheese burrito and Circle K for 2 liter Pepsi free and skittles and ding dongs!
Somehow he could take all of that food and turn it into raw cranking power.
I wish to offer my sincere condolences to Charles Family his Friends.
He will be missed.
Guy Keesee
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Jul 26, 2018 - 04:38pm PT
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Charles on the crux section of the FA of The Manly Dike 1985. I led to the dike, Gordo led the mid section with the drilling crux (long story) and Charles finished it off. He took one little fall and then got it second try. The rest of us (DE, Gordo and Margy Floyd) got it no falls. Washoe in foreground.
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old craghag
Sport climber
Bishop
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Jul 30, 2018 - 06:56pm PT
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It is very disturbing to hear Charles has left this world at such an early age. It has been over 30 years since I hung out with Charles but, I always believed our paths would cross again some day. The short time I spent with him helped change the trajectory of my life and I will never forget it. Condolences to all those that are missing him.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jul 31, 2018 - 01:56pm PT
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^^wonderful tribute by Grossman.
Charles’ drive from 1981 to 1985 in the realm of bigwalls was really spectacular, his two solo first ascents—Space and Queen of Spades— were state of the art at the time, incredible efforts.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Thanks John. I am still trying to sort all of this out...
Life is beautiful and horrid all at once but this has been devastating.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Me too, still in shock.
Charles had a way to bring out the best in people, when he wanted to. I think your piece reflects that well, thanks for those memories, and condolences.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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On the FA of "Big Brown Eye." Charles at the belay while CF follows me on the 2nd pitch.
Gordo on deck waiting for belay from Charles.
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Steven Amter
climber
Washington, DC
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It hits hard when someone your age dies - and it seems to be happening all too frequently!
Although I don't think I ever climbed with him, I met or spoke to Charles a number of times circa 1986 or maybe 1987. I had an informal resoling business in Tucson, complete with an antique shoe press I bought for 15 bucks in a thrift store, and Charles became was my rubber supplier. At the time, he was traveling around and selling big slabs of sticky rubber out of the back of his car - I don't think he called it Stealth yet.
He was gracious and very helpful, sharing tips and advice on glues and resoling technique. He has gave me a very good price on the rubber. Maybe he was trying to see how well it performed in the field. In any case, the rubber was killer - far superior to the Boreal rubber available at the time. I still have a pair of Mariacher shoes I resoled with 5.10 rubber in the late 80s - I used them in a pinch not too long ago and they still climb great!
I will also be forever grateful to Cole and 5.10 for the legendary UFOs slippers they sold in the 1990s - cool and visionary at the same time. I did some memorable ascents in those. He really had a knack for advancing the ball in climbing footwear technology.
My condolences to his family and all who were close to him.
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Janet Wilts
Trad climber
Grand Teton National Park
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Aug 15, 2018 - 09:32am PT
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So sorry to hear this....
I remember him from years ago.......
I knew him as Charles Cole the 3rd......
Great guy.......
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Vic Klotz
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Aug 15, 2018 - 11:04am PT
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I was driving through an industrial mall in North Hollywood probably around 1985 when I saw one of the unit garage doors open. There was a kid inside working with a bench-top grinder, working on what looked like a climbing shoe. This was so unusual to me that I had to check inside. That's when I met Charlie Cole.
I was a little star-struck because I was using a JT Guidebook with his name and picture inside. Charlie quickly put me at ease with his open and friendly style. He said his company was called 5.10 and the kid working on the shoe was resoling climbing shoes with his new climbing rubber. I told him about the Scarpas I was climbing in. He modestly suggested I might try his shoes, and handed me a pair of "blems" that he couldn't sell. Once I used them, I had all my other shoes resoled in his 5.10 rubber.
His mom was the only other employee at the time, doing the books, and I guess running things. She told me that before the company started, Charlie was looking for some direction in his future. Since he had advanced degrees in Business and Chemistry and loved to climb, she suggested he combine everything together. 5.10 was born.
Charlie also told me to do the Nose without taking any food. This was the only suggestion I didn't take him up on.
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cornel
climber
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
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Aug 16, 2018 - 05:52am PT
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Another hole in the climbing universe as Another legend goes down. Didn’t really know Charles but I certainly admired his work. Stealth rubber was a total game changer. Even though I would buy other brand shoes for my skinny feet I would immediately have them resoled with Stealth. Went up to get the 3rd on Space but my partner and I didn’t have enough mojo working to finish the job.. It is still on my tick list.. On top of all the talent and genius that comprised Charles he was evidently a wonderful human being too. What a combo..
My sincere condolences to Charles friends and family.
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Klimmer2.0
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Aug 16, 2018 - 11:04am PT
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Just like to give my sincere condolences to all the family and friends ...
I met CC3 in the Camp 4 parking lot 1984 and we talked. Saw him manufacturing bigwall aid gear ...cutting cable, setting swages etc, out of the back of his car. He was heading up to Half Dome to solo a route. Very friendly and super knowledgeable. We talked for a while.
On the same trip I had met the late Neil Sugerman from the Camo 4 board and we were climbing for about a week together before he fell and broke his hip on “ Agua Knobby” in TM ... but that’s another story ...
Saw Charles again several times at a few Mt Woodson Bouldering contests organized by Carmel et al. At that time he was 5.10 world renowned. Stealth is certainly the best rubber ever. I resoled everything with it and still do, even my bowling shoes lol (joke I don’t bowl really).
Is Stealth or C4 gonna be still available for resolves? Adidas should name the rubber “Stealth CC3” to honor him.
Rest In Peace Charles ... brilliantly smart climber and a truly nice guy.
Hopefully nothing I’ve said offends anyone. No politics here in my post. Wouldn’t want to get banned over saying condolences ...
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Aug 16, 2018 - 02:34pm PT
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Sorry to see Charles go so young. I have some great memories of climbing with Charles, and some not so great ones. While I loved his diet (diet coke and donuts) I have never had a climbing partner that got me into more trouble. First there was the woman he introduced me to that lived in the Palisades that there was no chance that I could afford her but tried anyway. So sexy but liked lobster too much.
Then there were the routes! Charles was always ambitious with his route selection. He would pick something right at the limit of his abilities and try to lead it. After his somewhat regular failure he would have MY gear in half the route and he would 'invite' me to try the route. Most of the time we would emerge unscathed but there were a few bruised and sprained parts that I would not otherwise have chosen to aquire. These 'epics' have left me with some vivid, and at this point fond memories.
One of my favorites is when Charles decided to lead 'Good to the Last Drop' in Josh. He would not commit to the long runout to the last bolt and I went up to finish the route. I was familiar with it since I was on the first ascent but had never actually led that section. I climb up and finally get to the bolt. Unfortunately I had left the rack on the ground and so I climbed up another step or two to get more secure. Charles starts accusing me of showing off but when I tell him to look next to him and he sees the rack is sitting on the ground he starts laughing so hard. I just happened to have a biner on my chalkbag that day and so had something to clip in with (thank god) and finished the route. We laughed about that one for a long time.
Then there were all the car races, him in his 914 and me in my 510. It didn't take him long to realize that his car was slower than mine and that he wasn't quite as crazy as I was on the road.
Good times, indeed.
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climbera5
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Aug 17, 2018 - 01:54pm PT
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Reading the posts about Sir Charles brought back a wave of memories from my fledging days at JT. I was a weekend warrior during the 80’s and when I first arrived, I was overwhelmed by the stacked talent ticking off one new FA after another. The comradery, humor, and intellect were among the best I’ve encountered; be it in business, school, or any other form of outdoor adventure. Those were among the best times of my life.
When I first met Charles he had pulled up in his well worn Honda, bragging to those around him that after 60,000 miles, he had yet to change the oil. “Who is this guy?” Before long I heard stories about his ‘Poodles’ rebellion, the long trips back into the Wonderlands, and his wall exploits in Yosemite. He was singularly focused, didn’t suffer fools, and when we first talked his eyes looked right through me. On one miserable day we played a round of chess and like many here, I was quickly humbled. Now he has my attention.
For me, he was an enigmatic figure and because he and I were built alike, I developed an internal competition to see if I can match his skills, so I climbed his free routes. Then took up wall climbing, but every time I made progress Charles kept upping the ante. After soloing the Zodiac in 87, I realized I didn’t have the chops for A4 soloing, but I’m forever grateful to Charles for his unintended inspiration and for being pushed to levels I wouldn’t have achieved otherwise.
RIP Charles, you have indeed led ‘a consequential life’.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 17, 2018 - 09:07pm PT
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Charles and I were driving around one of the loops in Yosemite when a ranger pulled us over for no good reason and asked for Charles' license. He asked the Man why he was getting pulled over and all we got was a load of gruff attitude. The dispatcher took the radio inquiry as Ranger Rick repeated "Yes, Charles David Cole". The voice on the other end of the radio said "Say hello for me will you". Rick was now our jolly best buddy as I quietly continued to seethe.
The dispatcher was none other than Janet Wilts.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 26, 2018 - 08:57am PT
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Yeah, Charles was a Crystal Voyager.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Oct 26, 2018 - 06:02pm PT
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Thanks Roy, that made me laugh.
There was a lot of laughing going on back then!
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Bargainhunter
climber
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Feb 21, 2019 - 03:28pm PT
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As found in this issue:
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Feb 21, 2019 - 03:31pm PT
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Love the old JT guide pic. I spent lots of time with that addition. That's about when I started making trips down there. I miss those days.
BAd
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 21, 2019 - 08:48pm PT
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That image of Charles Cole climbing in the Japanese article is a photo that I took in 1984 when we put up the Competitive Edge (aka the Real Nose). Adidas/Five Ten has no permission to use it without any proper photo credit which they have somehow lost sight of since 2014 when I furnished them with several images of Charles for one use only. That same image will appear in the AAJ obit piece for Charles with my permission.
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Bargainhunter
climber
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Feb 22, 2019 - 01:20am PT
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That’s a shame Steve. I can remove my post if you like. I just happened to be at the Tokyo Airport yesterday and noticed that article that I thought Charles’ friends and family might like to see. I bet the editors of the magazine would be sympathetic to your concerns if you wrote them. It’s looks like Rock and Snow might be the reincarnation of the famed “Iwa to Yuki” of the past that went out of business a few years back.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 22, 2019 - 09:15am PT
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No problem leaving your post intact. I just find it irritating how little attention is paid to proper photo credit and compensation out there in the media and business world and I don't even have that many images out in play.
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