Fifty years of climbing club...the roster


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Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Jul 11, 2018 - 08:36pm PT
Royal Arches, Spring 1958.........

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
Jul 11, 2018 - 09:02pm PT
Third Flatiron 1963 with a gold line rope.

A few months later, Redgarden Wall in Eldorado, with a kernmantel that I managed to slice in two when I knocked a loose block off right in front of the owner. Fortunately I was an attractive young college girl and he was the proverbial lascivious climber so all was forgiven. Not to mention the rope had been given to him by a local climbing shop to see if those new nylon ropes were any good.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Jul 11, 2018 - 09:32pm PT
January 1973 on rotten granite held together by frozen ice in a small quarry next to highway 95 at the top of Steak-House Hill, Moscow Mountain, Idaho.

That is 5 years from now more or less. I think my brother started a month earlier than me.
Bad Fiducci

Wilson, WY
Jul 12, 2018 - 04:49am PT
Capitol Peak, knife edge, there was a rope somewhere... 1963.
okay, whatever

Jul 12, 2018 - 05:06am PT
Just about there... in August of 1968 I was 14 years old, and climbed the Sharkstooth in RMNP (only 5.5 or so, but if you fell you would die, and hence a roped climb for a beginner, which I was in 1968). I did Kiener's on the east face of Longs that August as well, though it's really just 4th class scrambling, except for Lambs Slide, once the snow has melted for the season... we had a rope but never used it. We also lugged a half dozen pitons, and a hammer and carabiners and slings of course, along with us, though they turned out to be utterly unnecessary dead weight. The nut revolution, and Friends and so on, were just ahead, time-wise, but had not blossomed yet in 1968. And really, what made this possible for me was that I spent my summers, from 1967-1974, as a camper and then a counselor at a summer camp near Estes Park. So, I ended up climbing Longs 27 times, by various routes, from all sides... and climbed it in February once, which was no fun at all.
Todd Eastman

Social climber
Putney, VT
Jul 12, 2018 - 05:36am PT
In the Fall 1968 my dad and his climbing buddies marched me up Old Rag in the Shenandoah. Got tied into the Goldline, pounded out some pins, climbed on the amazing granite, and got hooked.

Have been having fun adjusting this crazy sport to life's demands ever since.
okay, whatever

Jul 12, 2018 - 05:44am PT
Goldline, and Columbian Nylon... woven ropes we had before the core/sheath mantled ropes obsoleted them!

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2018 - 06:38am PT
Mighty Hiker has a point...”club” may not be an appropriate term for this august but somewhat aged group. Something more medieval “guild.”

Social climber
Salt Lake City
Jul 12, 2018 - 06:59am PT
I'm in. 1960, Chattanooga, TN area. No instruction except "Starlight and Storm". The first climb was also a first ascent as there were on other climbers in the area at that time.
Now I am shooting for 5.11 on my 80th B-Day in October.

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 12, 2018 - 07:49am PT
Guild? More like cabal.

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2018 - 07:59am PT
I’m going to go with illuminati.

Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
Jul 12, 2018 - 08:44am PT
The oldest picture I could find. 1962. The sandstone towers at Czech a...
The oldest picture I could find. 1962. The sandstone towers at Czech and German border. Wonderful place to learn climbing. I was 14. Standing in the back.
Credit: Alois

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Jul 12, 2018 - 08:55am PT
Brother Paul and another climber (Mike Smith) took me up a route on the North face of Tahquitz in the fall of 1961. Late start and climbing slow caused us to be caught by darkness. After spending the night we were rescued by Riverside Mountain Rescue team.
Paul had taken me rappelling in the canyons near our house before that, but this was m first "real" climb.

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Jul 12, 2018 - 08:56am PT
I’m going to go with illuminati.

Physicist Mike Sogard, Snake Dike, mid-70s.

Illumination courtesy solar fusion and Earth atmosphere through disposable camera lens.

Oh, and elation.


Trad climber
Jul 12, 2018 - 09:09am PT
Still a couple years shy of 50 years.

Did a "route" called Directissima. A 30 foot climb at summer camp. I still remember the adrenaline buzz after finishing. And I remember my best friend saying "if you can do it, I'm sure I can". He didn't get 10 feet.

A few weeks later, I went on a trip to Linville Gorge. Three day trip. We had the place to ourselves. Being there cemented my love of wild places. Don't remember the climbing as much as the body rappels, on goldline.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jul 12, 2018 - 09:41am PT
Funny you should ask.

My first roped climb was fifty years ago this Saturday.

edit; oops, its Tuesday

Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
Jul 12, 2018 - 10:03am PT
By your definition, I started climbing when I tied into a Goldline and got top roped up a short, scruffy little choss in Elk Creek drainage, below Vestal and Arrow in the Weminuche Wilderness in 1967 at Colorado Outward Bound.

Climbed Grand Teton via Exum Ridge with Dave Dornan working for Exum Guide Service in 1969. A roped party of nine. Dave didn't bother to stay tied. Most of the time, as I recall, he moved around shepherding his flock up the climb.

By a stricter definition, roped climbing on the sharp end, - with no mentor nor other assistance of any kind - I started in 1972 in Arizona on a scruffy route on the Four Peaks outside of Phoenix. Scared witless/shitless.

So, am I "in" or "out?"

P.S. And what do members of this club/guild actually get? A sponsorship from Depends?

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Jul 12, 2018 - 01:08pm PT
Terry--Good one!

Jul 12, 2018 - 01:22pm PT
1968 - YOSE - met 2 trippers, one named Ron Cagel the other Barry Bergoon . . . wall gear and the whole 9. I was totally transfixed. . . but mom, dad and gran scuttled me away from "those MOUNTAIN CLIMBERS" so fast it made my head swim. I musta been destined to surf for a few more years before I could move back to the valley and actually set boot to rock. . . so. . . I guess I can't join the roster. . . quite yet. . . but it's right around the frikken corner!



Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
Jul 12, 2018 - 01:24pm PT
You guys should start a tontine.

I say this as someone who is still quite a few years short of being a member.
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