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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 11, 2018 - 02:42pm PT
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If you’re in you’re past caring that people know how old you are. Entry qualification: your first climb with a rope was at least fifty years ago. I’ll start with date of first roped climb.
Jim Donini...August, 1964
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 11, 2018 - 03:03pm PT
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If we can broaden it slightly from just climbing to include other stupid adventures, then I'm in. There were no mountains or rocks in the middle of the Canadian prairies where I grew up, but not far to the north there were big wild rivers, and I started paddling whitewater in 1962. And, starting in 1963, I spent four months every summer up there, first as an assistant guide, then guiding.
First mountain was in 64, but that was on a Scout trip to the US southwest, so just hiking and scrambling. Still, the summit was 12,441 ft, so not nothing.
First roped climb didn't come until 73, when I moved to Vancouver, so, technically, I don't make the cut. But maybe "Honorary Mention" or something?
Edit to add: Fossil Climber (Wayne Merry) definitely makes the cut. I think he did a roped climb somewhere in California about sixty years ago.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 11, 2018 - 03:07pm PT
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I guess I’ll have to fess up since August will be my 50th anniversary of going to Devil’s Lk with some Sierra Clubbers. Pretty sure I impressed ‘em in my Keds.
My first ‘roped’ outing, so to speak, was about three years before when I took my younger brothers up some choss pile in a canyon above Desert Hot Springs using Granny’s clothes line. I kid you knott!
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clode
Trad climber
portland, or
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Jul 11, 2018 - 03:11pm PT
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Damn! I'm a year and a half shy (1970)!
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John Duffield
Mountain climber
New York
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Jul 11, 2018 - 03:15pm PT
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I was 12 in 1960 and we climbed Moosilauke in NH. Spent the night on the summit. The ruins of the Dartmouth Outing Club and the moon were eerie enough. The tarp we were under blew away in the night. I can still see it floating away over the Whites.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jul 11, 2018 - 03:32pm PT
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First roped climb: 1959, Black Tusk (I know it is easy, but not so easy in full blizzard conditions)
First 1st winter ascent: 1960, Sky Pilot Mtn and also first 1st ascents of minor peaks.
First new route: 1961 Canadian Border Peak in the Cascades. Same trip: 1st forced bivouac.....
First 1st ascents at Squamish: 1961 pretty low quality stuff
Used up the first of the proverbial 9 lives: 1960, Five Fingers fiasco.
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pb
Sport climber
Sonora Ca
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Jul 11, 2018 - 03:33pm PT
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does it have to be a climbing rope?
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HermitMaster
Social climber
my abode
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Jul 11, 2018 - 04:06pm PT
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1964 I was 4 years old. My uncles and I climbed up the side of the local elementary school. I remember clearly standing on a swamp cooler 2 floors up thinking I was going to die.
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Jul 11, 2018 - 04:10pm PT
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I just make it, this very summer. pb, if it was a "rope" (includes clothesline) and you were climbing with it, it's a climbing rope. Mine was 120' of some weird soft kind of 3/8" goldline (not the steel cable like goldline) I bought at a hardware store for a princely sum like $13 or something. We had I think 3 pitons and an equal number of heavy Army steel biners. Two 1" slings. We each raided our father's toolbox for a hammer, ball peen preferred so the claw wouldn't rip your pants pocket. Hiking boots. And off we went, three of us, to Angel's Fright on Tahquitz. In a 2-seater Porsche with the third guy jammed up in the back window, and if you know what a 1950s or 60s Porsche was like, that's a tiny space. Heading up the last bit of road, we first saw Suicide Rock and thought, wow, what a big rock! This is going to be awesome! then turned another corner and Tahquitz itself loomed into view, about 2-3 times bigger. Climb went great, but we pretty much 4th classed it, belayer just sat behind a tree unanchored and I led out to the next tree 100 ft away. Second came up, untied, and we tossed the rope down to the third guy. Placed one piton half way in, at the final overlap, and that was it for pro for the whole route. Giant fun.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jul 11, 2018 - 04:59pm PT
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Jim,
I guess that I made the cut. I did the 1st ascent of the "Pendulum Route" on Cathedral Ledge in 1968. I guess that I started at least 1-2 years before that in the Gunks. Been out a few times this year but now I'm on the bench with a herniated disc. Have fun overseas.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 11, 2018 - 05:09pm PT
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SONY.
Soon only not yet.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jul 11, 2018 - 06:10pm PT
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first roped climb: Friction Pitch at Quincy Quarries, Boston, in October 1967
most recent roped climb: haven't-named-it-yet on Mt. Maxwell, Salt Spring Island, July 2018
The cobble marked with an X came off.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jul 11, 2018 - 06:11pm PT
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1964; John Muir route on Sunny Side Bench. We used a hemp rope spliced in two places. Protection was youthful invention: we'd untie the rope and run it old ring-eyed pins and around tree limbs.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Jul 11, 2018 - 06:30pm PT
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did a nail up in the Arroyo Seco, summer 1966, i was 11. Thank you Frank Bigelow.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jul 11, 2018 - 06:52pm PT
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First roped climb (well, it was a roped climb for me at the time) Owen-Spaulding route on the Grand, July 25, 1957.
Still puttering on...benched at the moment with peroneal tendonitis. :(
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Woody the Beaver
Trad climber
Soldier, Idaho
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Jul 11, 2018 - 07:15pm PT
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Summer 1961, on a demented attempt at a sandstone arch ascent in western Colorado. It was a new kernmantel rope (having read the Gerry catalog, we loved that luscious word "kernmantel") that my friend Tim McLaughlin had furtively borrowed from his big brother Michael, who attended Colorado College and was an impossibly hip guy. Somehow we managed to knock off a huge load of rocks onto the precious rope, and it looked pretty sad after that. Still feel guilty about it.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jul 11, 2018 - 07:16pm PT
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Sorry, but I'm a year removed from being in the club.
After a brief lesson near McCall, Idaho on rope management, belaying, & rappelling, in July 1969, a few weeks later, I found myself on steep & crumbling cliffs high above Boulder Creek, near Ketchum, Idaho, leading novice climbers, childhood friends into unknown territory, with an old hemp rope, borrowed from a friend’s family garage, tied around my waist. We all somehow survived that adventure.
And I still continue, at a vastly-reduced level.
Credits to Brokedown Climber for this photo of me following the easier parts of a 5.7 at City of Rocks, a few weeks back.
(I actually led a 5.6c, later the same day.)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2018 - 08:02pm PT
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The club accepts new members as they become eligible. Believe me, your time will come sooner than you expect.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jul 11, 2018 - 08:36pm PT
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Royal Arches, Spring 1958.........
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Jul 11, 2018 - 09:02pm PT
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Third Flatiron 1963 with a gold line rope.
A few months later, Redgarden Wall in Eldorado, with a kernmantel that I managed to slice in two when I knocked a loose block off right in front of the owner. Fortunately I was an attractive young college girl and he was the proverbial lascivious climber so all was forgiven. Not to mention the rope had been given to him by a local climbing shop to see if those new nylon ropes were any good.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jul 11, 2018 - 09:32pm PT
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January 1973 on rotten granite held together by frozen ice in a small quarry next to highway 95 at the top of Steak-House Hill, Moscow Mountain, Idaho.
That is 5 years from now more or less. I think my brother started a month earlier than me.
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Bad Fiducci
climber
Wilson, WY
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Jul 12, 2018 - 04:49am PT
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Capitol Peak, knife edge, there was a rope somewhere... 1963.
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okay, whatever
climber
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Jul 12, 2018 - 05:06am PT
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Just about there... in August of 1968 I was 14 years old, and climbed the Sharkstooth in RMNP (only 5.5 or so, but if you fell you would die, and hence a roped climb for a beginner, which I was in 1968). I did Kiener's on the east face of Longs that August as well, though it's really just 4th class scrambling, except for Lambs Slide, once the snow has melted for the season... we had a rope but never used it. We also lugged a half dozen pitons, and a hammer and carabiners and slings of course, along with us, though they turned out to be utterly unnecessary dead weight. The nut revolution, and Friends and so on, were just ahead, time-wise, but had not blossomed yet in 1968. And really, what made this possible for me was that I spent my summers, from 1967-1974, as a camper and then a counselor at a summer camp near Estes Park. So, I ended up climbing Longs 27 times, by various routes, from all sides... and climbed it in February once, which was no fun at all.
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Todd Eastman
Social climber
Putney, VT
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Jul 12, 2018 - 05:36am PT
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In the Fall 1968 my dad and his climbing buddies marched me up Old Rag in the Shenandoah. Got tied into the Goldline, pounded out some pins, climbed on the amazing granite, and got hooked.
Have been having fun adjusting this crazy sport to life's demands ever since.
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okay, whatever
climber
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Jul 12, 2018 - 05:44am PT
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Goldline, and Columbian Nylon... woven ropes we had before the core/sheath mantled ropes obsoleted them!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2018 - 06:38am PT
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Mighty Hiker has a point...”club” may not be an appropriate term for this august but somewhat aged group. Something more medieval perhaps.....like “guild.”
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TomKimbrough
Social climber
Salt Lake City
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Jul 12, 2018 - 06:59am PT
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I'm in. 1960, Chattanooga, TN area. No instruction except "Starlight and Storm". The first climb was also a first ascent as there were on other climbers in the area at that time.
Now I am shooting for 5.11 on my 80th B-Day in October.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 12, 2018 - 07:49am PT
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Guild? More like cabal.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2018 - 07:59am PT
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I’m going to go with illuminati.
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Alois
Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
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Jul 12, 2018 - 08:44am PT
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Jul 12, 2018 - 08:55am PT
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Brother Paul and another climber (Mike Smith) took me up a route on the North face of Tahquitz in the fall of 1961. Late start and climbing slow caused us to be caught by darkness. After spending the night we were rescued by Riverside Mountain Rescue team.
Paul had taken me rappelling in the canyons near our house before that, but this was m first "real" climb.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jul 12, 2018 - 08:56am PT
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I’m going to go with illuminati.
Physicist Mike Sogard, Snake Dike, mid-70s.
Illumination courtesy solar fusion and Earth atmosphere through disposable camera lens.
Oh, and elation.
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EdwardT
Trad climber
Retired
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Jul 12, 2018 - 09:09am PT
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Still a couple years shy of 50 years.
Did a "route" called Directissima. A 30 foot climb at summer camp. I still remember the adrenaline buzz after finishing. And I remember my best friend saying "if you can do it, I'm sure I can". He didn't get 10 feet.
A few weeks later, I went on a trip to Linville Gorge. Three day trip. We had the place to ourselves. Being there cemented my love of wild places. Don't remember the climbing as much as the body rappels, on goldline.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 12, 2018 - 09:41am PT
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Funny you should ask.
My first roped climb was fifty years ago this Saturday.
edit; oops, its Tuesday
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
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Jul 12, 2018 - 10:03am PT
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By your definition, I started climbing when I tied into a Goldline and got top roped up a short, scruffy little choss in Elk Creek drainage, below Vestal and Arrow in the Weminuche Wilderness in 1967 at Colorado Outward Bound.
Climbed Grand Teton via Exum Ridge with Dave Dornan working for Exum Guide Service in 1969. A roped party of nine. Dave didn't bother to stay tied. Most of the time, as I recall, he moved around shepherding his flock up the climb.
By a stricter definition, roped climbing on the sharp end, - with no mentor nor other assistance of any kind - I started in 1972 in Arizona on a scruffy route on the Four Peaks outside of Phoenix. Scared witless/shitless.
So, am I "in" or "out?"
P.S. And what do members of this club/guild actually get? A sponsorship from Depends?
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jul 12, 2018 - 01:08pm PT
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Terry--Good one!
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Jul 12, 2018 - 01:24pm PT
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You guys should start a tontine.
I say this as someone who is still quite a few years short of being a member.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2018 - 01:39pm PT
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More like OldDadzDrool
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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Jul 12, 2018 - 01:45pm PT
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You guys are an inspiration! I'm still about 20 years out but I definitely hope to join the club once eligible!
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Jul 12, 2018 - 02:19pm PT
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There's a fairly funny old British movie revolving around a tontine, called the Wrong Box with Dudley Moore, Michael Caine, Ralph Richardson, and Peter Sellers.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jul 12, 2018 - 03:44pm PT
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Back here in the right coast, the Hudson Valley contingent has started the ALCT (Assisted Living Climbing Team), populated by old climbers in various stages of decrepitude, from very mild to...you don't want to know. Admission standards are not based on years climbing, but rather on years living, and you have to be at least 70 to get in. (However, under extreme pressure, we have had to establish a JV.)
As you can imagine, a good many of the oldsters have more than 50 years before the climbing mast, and so are candidates for Jim's Half-Century club as well. (Speaking of which, I propose HCCC---half century climbing club).
As far as I can tell, membership in the ALCT confers neither rights nor privileges, and in that regard it mimics the HCCC. T-shirts have been discussed but have never happened, and drug manufacturers have turned a deaf ear to discounts on NSAIDs.
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Gorgeous George
Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
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Jul 12, 2018 - 04:06pm PT
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Damn, am I going to remember to post in 5 years?
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Crump
Social climber
Canyon Lake, Texas
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Jul 12, 2018 - 04:09pm PT
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Climbed Lasen Peak with my fam when I was 4 in 1964 and all the way my father encouraged me saying, “James, your a fine mountaineer!” Wrote on my brain tracks and by ‘67 and ‘68 I had stolen one of my dad’s sailing ropes and was pioneering Austin limestone! ERock in 1971, first ERock FA in 1972.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Jul 12, 2018 - 04:09pm PT
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I began my mountaineering by climbing Navajo Peak in the Indian Peaks of Colorado while still in High School, 1956. My first roped climb was Empor, on Cob Rock in Boulder Canyon with Bob Culp in 1959. First real lead was Cussing Crack, Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon in 1960.
So...do I win the case of Ensure, or the box of Depends? I'll settle for a bottle of Single Malt Scotch....
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11worth
Trad climber
Leavenworth & Greenwater WA
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Jul 12, 2018 - 04:23pm PT
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A route at Donner summit. Summer of 1958.
Jim Phillips
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jul 12, 2018 - 04:59pm PT
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And how many of you crusty old farts are STILL climbing??? THIS is what really counts.
Pete [a mere 40-year veteran, but STILL givin' 'er....]
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jul 12, 2018 - 05:22pm PT
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O.K. Pete, this picture is for you. I took this picture of Jimmy Dunn at the base of Turkey Rocks last year. I'm 72, but feel like 90 at the moment-herniated disc, ( I've had a few).
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jul 12, 2018 - 05:23pm PT
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No man, you have it all wrong, how many "Toothless Old Tykes of Tomorrow," are still alive!
I get out several times a year, nothing big, mostly peak bagging and some easy sh#t. Perhaps you are unaware of the fact Donini has been cloned several times over and we aren't sure which is the original and which is the original Mutha?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 12, 2018 - 06:16pm PT
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Perhaps you are unaware of the fact Donini has been cloned several times over and we aren't sure which is the original and which is the original Mutha?
Pete's kind of young, and should be forgiven for not knowing much about... well, about pretty much anything. But those of us who have been around for a bit longer know that, while the original is still intact, several clones have been identified....
Caldwell and Honnold for sure, but there is debate about several others.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jul 12, 2018 - 06:20pm PT
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And how many of you crusty old farts are STILL climbing??? THIS is what really counts.
I'm still climbing. 50 years is a somewhat distant memory, as I've got 61 years in. That said, I ain't no Donini clone or even close to it.
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Yeti
Trad climber
Ketchum, Idaho
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Jul 12, 2018 - 06:52pm PT
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Mine was on the Truckee Boulder in company with Dougal Haston and Paul Arthur in April 1968.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jul 12, 2018 - 07:32pm PT
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I can vouch that Donini, 11Worth, Brokedown, & TWP are still climbing, based on seeing them in action at City of Rocks this June.
TWP on Rye Crisp at Elephant Rock.
Donini resting after putting up a rope or 6.
And I belayed Brokedown on a 5.7 a couple weeks after he had a heart attack after leading a 5.5 at the City of Rocks.
I must confess, I really enjoyed 11worth & me breaking away from the group, doing a hike, & climbing some new routes in Bingham's new guidebook. It turns out I lead a 5.6c sport & gear route, that isn't in the new guidebook. We old farts still like some adventure.
11worth following the new route.
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OldEric
Trad climber
Westboro, MA
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Jul 12, 2018 - 07:59pm PT
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The Grand - August of 67. Not my first roped climb but one that "qualifies" me for this club of dubious distinction.
Still climbing.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Jul 12, 2018 - 08:04pm PT
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aside from my parents I don't know anyone on the wrong side of 50, much less someone who has climbed 50 years
good on all y'all
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jul 12, 2018 - 08:04pm PT
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This was my first day, Spring 1959. I'm on the left, carrying a barely visible 120' half-weight Viking braided rope, about 9.0 diameter. So I'm in!
Yes I still climb, but finding partners can be difficult. Last year, with no partners in sight, I solo bolted a 9 pitch .8 route which I called Amazons, and then did the FA as a roped solo.
One disadvantage of aging is that you get stiff in all the wrong places, at all the wrong times!
And "Yes", I have started on Project 2018, the big slab in the background.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jul 12, 2018 - 08:29pm PT
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Hurrah for Hamish Mutch!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2018 - 08:39pm PT
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Summer doldrums....but the Karakoram looms. Good way to beat the heat AND the crowds.
With areas like these available, I ask you, WHO in their right mind would let a little aging get in the way?
Feeling a lack of motivation...spread your wings and fly to new pastures.
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Risk
Mountain climber
Marooned, 855 miles from Tuolumne Meadows
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Jul 12, 2018 - 08:48pm PT
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Well, I’m not sure if I make the cut or not, because I can’t quite figure out what year it was. But, my first roped climb was with Wayne Merry behind Yosemite lodge around the corner from Swan slab with YMS out of the closet from the old lodge lounge. Anyone know the year?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jul 12, 2018 - 08:58pm PT
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spread your wings and fly
Smith Rock 24 May 2017
TWP in background
life is fleeting
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
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Jul 13, 2018 - 12:05am PT
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First roped climb, Mt Starr King, with Phil Arnot and the Carlmont Alpine Club in October 1961. Didn't know how to rappel yet, so got lowered down on belay from the summit with two ropes. Nice way to get all scraped up. Learned to rappel that same winter on Mt Tamalpais summit rock, again with the Carlmont Alpine Club using the dulfersitz method. Again, a big mistake.
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Jul 13, 2018 - 05:08am PT
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Almost can join the roster but I still have a few years to go.
You are right Jim. New pastures and vistas are the key to staying motivated. How people can climb the same routes over and over is beyond me.
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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Jul 13, 2018 - 05:56am PT
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^^ To each his own.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Jul 13, 2018 - 09:35am PT
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Mebbee RGold, JoGill, and I should have a "60 Years of climbing "elite group?" I should add Bob Culp (Bobert) to this list, too.
This is for Piton Pete:
Oops! Forgot 11worth (Jim Phillips).
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jul 13, 2018 - 10:26am PT
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Hmmm...I don't seem to have much in the way of current climbing photos to prove to PPP I'm not posting exclusively from my sofa.
Here's one from nearly a year ago, the Open Book on Disappointment Peak, Tetons.
Oh, and here's another one, also about a year old, by SuperT's own Audrey Todd.
For a sense of (sigh) the passage of time, here are two shots of me and Dick Dumais taken 37 years apart
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jul 13, 2018 - 01:18pm PT
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^^^^^^^ @ Andy Cairns (MH2)
Wow, Andy!!! Thanks for the glowing endorsement above. It is always gratifying to be acknowledged by someone with your experience, wide ranging accomplishments and overall 'gravitas'. I am humbled.
Please accept my apologies for not commenting earlier on your post #14, on the first page, where we are treated to a photo of your recent unnamed climb on Mt. Maxwell. May I presume a little, and suggest a name? It is such a beauty that only "Miss Universe" could do it justice. And that rock (marked with an X) which fell off? What a surprise! It looks so bomber. I would love to repeat such a gem of a route. Too bad it is a three day drive each way.
Your photo on this page is fantastic, and illustrates how the most banal view of a bug and some fingers can become so much more in the eyes of a master photographer such as yourself. The quote was so profound, I was almost moved to tears. Ah yes, life is fleeting indeed.
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okay, whatever
climber
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Jul 13, 2018 - 01:35pm PT
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Where is Dick Dumais these days? I remember him from his days at Komito's in Estes Park (and maybe even back when Steve had his Boulder shop, before he moved to Estes Park... 1970 and before, or so???), Neptune's in Boulder, and also as a "character", shall we say, in the 1980's when I lived in Boulder.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2018 - 01:47pm PT
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Dumais is living the good life in Jackson Hole. He has a longtime sweetheart and ample funds to pursue his main obsession...golf.
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Roadie
Trad climber
moab UT
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Jul 13, 2018 - 02:45pm PT
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My mom just told me I ditched the family for an hour on our vacation to The Black Hills and climbed a fifty foot chimney. They were mad cuz they thought I'd been eaten by a bear or abducted by Indians. Then they saw me topping out and were really pissed. I was eight then, it was august so in another few weeks I guess I'll be there.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jul 13, 2018 - 04:58pm PT
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Uh, oh. Discombobulated.
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Kligfield
Mountain climber
Boulder, CO
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Jul 13, 2018 - 08:29pm PT
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For my first roped climb: Willy's slide ice climbing in winter 1965 with Dave Seidman and other from Dartmouth Outing Club.
For my first roped rock climb it was the Betty (5.2 in the Shawangunks) Spring 1966.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jul 14, 2018 - 07:31am PT
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How long have you been a YOYO?
this Gnome gnows & has seen more than a few summers pass.
I've been jumping up & down since '66-'67, when, at Temple, I would not sit through services. Hammond Pond. The rock was across from the parking lot, like a playground, it called out to me or to my Austrian dad.
Rock climbing; a call to the mountains is a well documented thing,
For many, a thing from youth,
often, necessarily, thrown over as the search for life's paths leads down city streets. For some, it seems, at 1st only skin deep.
When looked at from such a lofty perch as is this 50 yrs?
CLIMBING
There is no greater foil, no match to it.
As a metaphor , as life it self.
It is a source of rejuvenation !
I was lucky to have had 2 solid decades of year round near daily climbing too,
For me, More Than Skin Deep
dang though:
)I wish my Toes didn't hurt(
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Jul 14, 2018 - 08:01pm PT
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I didn't get seriously into climbing until I was 45 and that was 29 years ago but I do have a home movie of me roped up and climbing when I was 17 so that would be 56 years ago so I (sort of) qualify.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Jul 15, 2018 - 06:46am PT
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First tied in with a bowlin on a coil and gold line rope 1965 at Stony Point. Been climbing every season since.
Yours truly on my 67th birthday last Friday the 13th
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2018 - 07:31am PT
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Emulate those stones and gather no moss.
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Jul 15, 2018 - 08:25am PT
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I started with the Sierra Club RCS in 1968, on Little Table Mountain, north of Fresno, in the company of Rich Calderwood, Chris Denny, Burke Zane, and others, whose names I don't recall.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Jul 15, 2018 - 09:43am PT
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Next year
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EdwardT
Trad climber
Retired
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Jul 24, 2018 - 03:09pm PT
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Anyone know these folks?
* Apologies to Mr. Edwards if I overstepped.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Jul 24, 2018 - 03:32pm PT
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the conns, jan and herb. the subterraneans on the left
i guess i'm in ... call the RCS '67 checkout as my formal start with the loma prieta chapter at castle rock.
my intro to an overhanging dulfersitz under the guidance of my 8th grade cohorts was few years earlier,
spelunkers though they were (sorta)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 25, 2018 - 02:43am PT
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Devils lake Wisc, fall’ 63. Had bouldered / scrambled on some of the Jenny lake boulders in July or August
Age 8
Autonomous collective?
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Jul 25, 2018 - 08:36am PT
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For some reason I'm just seeing this thread--though the fact that I had cataract surgery--one sign of ageing--the day it was posted is my excuse.
My first climbs were top ropes with some high school friends on Breakneck Ridge above the Hudson River in NY in the spring of '63, though I had many years of hiking, mostly in the White Mountains, but also including Mt. Whitney, before that--and was already an avid 'armchair mountaineer' (as I still am). I started climbing seriously that fall at Devil's Lake with the Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers at the start of my freshman year in Madison--still remember having an epic on Wiessner's that day.
I haven't stopped since, with my most recent climbing a gym session last night and a trip to one of my local crags last Sat.--funny climbing with 2 'different eyes'. As for new horizons, not quite the same as Jim going to the Karakoram, but I'm hoping to travel out to California to climb with Mongrel at Shuteye in September.
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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Jul 25, 2018 - 09:56am PT
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The finger, Garden of the Gods, Colorado Springs, 1966.
Goldline rope, steel biners, tied into the end of the rope with a bowline on a bite.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Jul 25, 2018 - 02:20pm PT
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If you don't count the clothesline rope we used in 1941 while climbing the decomposed granite 40-foot cliff below the Cahuenga Pass "cross on the hill", I guess my first venture into "real" rock climbing was in September 1961, 3 months from my 28th birthday, at Stoney Point.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 25, 2018 - 03:02pm PT
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Man you folks are old. I've only got a meager 44 years under my belt. My first time out was at the Gunks in 1974.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2018 - 04:08pm PT
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Given the consistent, substantial and ongoing yearly increases in the number of climbers over the last half century the roster will grow at an accelerated rate into the foreseeable future.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 25, 2018 - 04:23pm PT
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No it won't Jim, most of them are gumbies and won't survive.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2018 - 05:09pm PT
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There are some gumbies out there Ron...of that there is no doubt.
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Jul 25, 2018 - 05:52pm PT
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1974 a co-worker at Curry drug me up in hiking boots w/Vibram soles and a hip belay on Munginella. Next one was in 2004 @ 50 years old. Does that count?
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MikeL
Social climber
Southern Arizona
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Jul 26, 2018 - 09:01am PT
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1963.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 26, 2018 - 11:36am PT
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One thing's for sure. There are a lot of young at heart posters here. Time and again I'll be reading one post or another by various avatars whose identities are unknown to me. More often than not, I'll assume the poster is relatively young, say 20's or 30's, based on the tenor and language of the post. Then, sooner or later the person behind one of these "20 something" avatars is revealed, they post a picture or something, and it turns out they're like 97 years old.
There's not a lot of "age appropriate" behavior around here ;-)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2018 - 11:49am PT
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Often people ask me where I grew up. My stock answer...”I didn’t...I’m a climber.”
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jul 26, 2018 - 02:08pm PT
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Climbing is hard but easier than growing up.
If memory serves.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Jul 26, 2018 - 02:40pm PT
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My first roped climbs were topropes at Stony Point with my dad and his friends when I was seven, 1964.
My first real climb was Angels Fright on Tahquitz with my dad James Evans and his best friend Lincoln Axe, 1967, 10 years old. Goldline rope, bowline on a coil, pitons, hip belay (of course), etc.
Also did my first 14er with my dad and Lincoln that same year, Middle Palisade.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Cascade Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Jul 27, 2018 - 11:30am PT
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60 years club
Manila rope on Boise River basalt cliffs and Idaho Sawtooths
Currently Columbia River basalt cliffs and Washington Cascades
SAR rope rescue team, swift water rescue team and fire department
etc
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Fossil climber
Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
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Jul 27, 2018 - 11:55am PT
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Lessee - woulda been about 1950, St. Helena Palisades. Piece of 3/8 manilla from hardware store, top roped by younger brother who hadn't done anything like it before either.
First on a nylon rope, 1952, Mission Gorge in San Diego with Jerry Gallwas, Gary Hemming, Barbara Lilley.
Yesterday I was contemplating life changes, and decided that when you are young you are composed of muscle and stupidity. When old, of adipose and senility. And the time between is astonishingly short!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 27, 2018 - 03:29pm PT
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only 4 years to go. . .
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Trump
climber
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Jul 28, 2018 - 08:23am PT
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TFPU!
I think my first climb was 45 years ago.
Which, if I had evolved to have 9 fingers instead of 10, might be something I’d say was 50 years ago, and might be something that I found my brain caring about today and attaching some significance to, just because it was a multiple of the number of fingers I’d evolved to have.
But I started down that path 4 billion years ago. Man I’m old! This monkey thinking thing has been a long time in the making. Speaking of which, I guess I kind of like to belong to clubs, too. Go figure.
Keep on keeping on monkey climbers and monkey thinkers! It sure does beat the alternative.
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John Morton
climber
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Jul 28, 2018 - 09:28am PT
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It might have been 1960, at the RCS sessions at the Berkeley rocks and beyond. Practiced aid moves with 30p nails driven into eucalyptus trees, something that is barely possible. I shudder to think of the 3/8" manila rappel rope we used on things like Higher Spire.
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Raker
Trad climber
Lakewood, CO
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Aug 15, 2018 - 10:16am PT
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Likely did some short topropes in 1968 but it wasn't until I took a class with Exum Guides in June of 1969 that I became smitten with this bizarre activity. Been climbing ever since and despite stage 4 cancer and associated challenging treatment, I led a 5.11d and top-roped a 5.12a on Sunday. My new training program is KRM, aka Keep Rob Moving and I attribute my present fitness to my many friends who are members. Hoping to make the official 50 year mark before leaving the planet.
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souterhead
Trad climber
Switzerland
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Aug 15, 2018 - 10:17am PT
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Just caught up with this thread - and must be among the "winners". My 1st roped climb (on a Scottish sea cliff) was in 1960, I think. My 1st Yosemite climb was much later - and easy introduction given by None other than Jim Donini about 1979. And I just completed a Dolomite climb with my old fried Paul Fatti, celebrating 50 years of climbing together - and still having fun!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Aug 15, 2018 - 10:26am PT
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Born in '48, I began climbing in '68 while serving my one year in the USN at Treasure Island/SF Bay, making weekend trips to YNP. My Merced hometown provided the climbing pards.
It was never better than in that spring, lemme tellya. And the time between then and today, Fossil Climber, where in heck did it go?
So many good memories...thanks to all my pals from Backintheday's Sport Shop!
MFM
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Aug 15, 2018 - 10:26am PT
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You are in good company souterhead, Donini taught all the greats, Whymper, Mummery,....
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Turok
Trad climber
Eldorado Springs, Colorado
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Aug 15, 2018 - 11:37am PT
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Hi Jim,
For me it would have been numerous clumsy attempts at roped climbing with Duncan Ferguson at "Coors Caves" South West of Denver in 1965. I was a Junior at South High School and Dunc was in 9th Grade at Merrill Junior High. Suffice to say we were exceedingly lucky.
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RBM
Trad climber
ARVADA CO
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Aug 15, 2018 - 01:48pm PT
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I was born December 1960 and raised on a hippie commune North of Ann Arbor. One particular day in the summer of 1968 some "grownups" from California came to stay and party. They told stories about climbing in Yosemite Valley and adventuring all around the country. They saw me climbing everything in sight and took me over to Grand Ledge. They put me in a Swiss Seat and let me loose. It was around July/August 1968. I TR'ed the easiest route fast and then had success on some harder climbs. I was seven years old at the time and the 40 ft cliffs seemed to go up to the sun. One of the guys soloed it to set the anchor. I nearly sh#t my pants with fear of him falling. It was a special day.
I remember one of them had a beautiful girlfriend and a sheepdog named Blue. He told me his brother had recently passed away in a climbing accident, "always be careful" he told me.
I wish I knew now who those guys were. They changed my life....for the better.
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Chris Wegener
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Aug 15, 2018 - 04:50pm PT
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I did my first climb in 1967 with Ken Mcnutt on Tahquitz. I had done some top roping before but that was my first real roped climb.
I learned through the Southern California RCS but soon found other friends and interested partners.
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Jane Levy
Trad climber
CA
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Aug 15, 2018 - 10:17pm PT
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I'm in the 60 + club. First started climbing with a rope on Indian Rock in Berkeley in 1957, when I was 15. My friend Judy belayed me with a top rope and I fell off I-12 many times before I was actually able to climb it. I still have the moves in my memory. Later that year I went to Yosemite with the Sierra Club and climbed Lower Brother and Lunch Ledge on the Royal Arches.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Aug 15, 2018 - 11:58pm PT
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Forgot to mention learning to chimney to the roof of my garage in Hollywood in 1939. The gap between buildings was just right. The technique was forever useful.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Aug 16, 2018 - 12:43am PT
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...August, 1964
About nine and a half years after you: January 1974, had been home from Vietnam for about three weeks and just started at SIU. Was soloing around Giant City SP in Southern Illinois taking pictures of plants, lichens and mosses in pockets in the beautiful sandstone. It was like Alice in Wonderland, but someone finally got a rope on me soon after and that was that.
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Loyd
Big Wall climber
Roseburg, OR
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Aug 16, 2018 - 07:49am PT
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1964 mid-summer Monday Morning Slab with Sheridan Anderson
Loyd Price
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lcote
climber
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Aug 16, 2018 - 09:38am PT
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Missed the cut by two years. I took a rock climbing class from EMS in North Conway In September 1970. I was hooked and spent the next several years commandeering my friends to climb with me.
Still going strong, just back from a trip to Alaska's Arrigetch Peaks.
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Rick Bradshaw
Big Wall climber
Los Alamos, NM
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Aug 16, 2018 - 11:37am PT
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Hey Jim, glad to hear you’re still around (not surprised but still kinda amazing). I was fortunate enough to go on some trips sponcered by the Youth Science Institute based out of Alum Rock Park in San Jose CA, which included some rock climbing and mountaineering. My first trip was in 1966 (I was 9) backpacking into Pine Valley in the Los Padres National Forest (CA). We only top-roped and rapelled, plus some bouldering, but I was hooked. Later that summer we climbed Cathedral Peak, not too technical but we roped up for the last bit. I dabbled here and there until my family moved to Salt Lake in 1972 (where eventually I met you). Been obsessed ever since...
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Abissi
Gym climber
,Grand Rapids, MI
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Aug 17, 2018 - 01:52pm PT
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I did my first climb as a 10 year old back in 1967. I was with the Boy Scouts on my first campout in Macedonia State Park in Kent Connecticut. Except for a few college years Climbing has been my passion, I own a plastic Palace (climbing gym) now and do a bit of guiding too. I think I am a definite candidate for the club
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Aug 19, 2018 - 10:30am PT
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Learned with the San Diego RCS while in high school, early 60s.
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Peter Lev
climber
Ouray
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Aug 19, 2018 - 02:04pm PT
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Started climbing when I turned 16 in 1956.
That was when got to finally use the family car; what a coincidence.
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Steven Amter
climber
Washington, DC
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Aug 20, 2018 - 12:11pm PT
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Seeing how I am nearly 62 and have "only" been climbing 46 years, this thread makes me positively feel young!
Climbing truly can be life long sport.
My question is: what should be the qualifying age to join Team Geezer?
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TomMc
Trad climber
Massachusetts
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Aug 20, 2018 - 12:11pm PT
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First rock scrambling was in the Adirondacks in the mid 1950's with my father who started climbing in Boulder in the early 1930's. Thus, he introduced me to one of my favorite "bad habits". First roped climb was 3rd Flatiron in 1960 including a painful descent off the back by body rappel. First lead was at Seneca Rocks about 1964-65. Last time climbing was at the Gunks maybe 5-6 years ago. Don't climb much anymore, but always miss it on a nice spring or fall day in New England.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Aug 20, 2018 - 03:16pm PT
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I'm going to post something here on behalf of 2 other incredible climbers who will never lurk here.
Jimmie Dunn uses his cell phone, and surfs the web, but he never checks in here. George Hurley is still putting new routes in at 83,
and did numerous early 1st ascents in Colorado, and elsewhere. George is a humble guy, and only lives 2 miles from me, and he still gets excited about climbing.
Jimmie still gets out on the rock, and hasn't hung up his climbing shoes for the last time. Anybody who has been around climbing for a while knows a few Jimmie Dunn stories.
I'm sure most people who post here can name 2-3 others who would make the over 50 club.
RichG-I can think of 2 in the Gunks who would make the 60 year club.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Aug 20, 2018 - 03:54pm PT
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Hmm, I know someone who is eligible for the seventy year group. He's now 98, and still active, including managing to fall off a ladder a year or two ago.
The mountaineering club I belong to has had two members reach 103 1/2 - both males, at that.
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Aug 20, 2018 - 05:50pm PT
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In 1962 I took my Mother's clothesline down and had a friend lower me down a nearby cliff. I untied on what I thought was a 'ledge', and fell 20' and broke my ankle. This misadventure was the first of many. In 1966 Doc Dunn of the Sierra Club RCS took me actual roped rock climbing on a trail maintenance trip in the Idaho Sawteeth-lars
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Aug 21, 2018 - 02:30pm PT
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Well, got started at 4 with my pop. Turned 54 this year and still at it.
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Heinrich Majewski
Trad climber
Scotts Valley,CA and Munich
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Aug 22, 2018 - 04:27am PT
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Started climbing in '65.In '68 got stormed off the Bonatti Pilar. That part of the Dru is gone, but both my partner of that adventure and me are still climbing together.
Funny, that you did this posting, since we were joking on a recent trip about our little “adventure“, lightening,repelling 10p off the pillar and another 10+ in the couloir, all via the “Dulfer“ method.
Bet my ass that most of todays climbers don't even know what the heck that is.
But otherwise, still enjoying Moving over Rock.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Aug 22, 2018 - 05:26am PT
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Heinrich, the defining condition of this roster means that everyone in the thread knows the Dulfer (or body) rappel!
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Aug 22, 2018 - 07:19am PT
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And has used it at least once!!! Same with tying in directly to the rope and a body belay. Clearly membership requirements.
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Todd Eastman
Social climber
Putney, VT
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Aug 22, 2018 - 07:33am PT
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The doofussitz abseil?
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Aug 22, 2018 - 08:56am PT
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This old coot still puttin' 'em up.....
Herb Laeger, aka Mr. Southern Sierra Obscura
A rare moment when Herb isn't on the go
74 and climbing like he's 35
Always FA'ing something
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Crag
Trad climber
Pennsyltuckey
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Aug 30, 2018 - 11:50am PT
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I'm hoping to make the 50 yrs of climbing roster, only 13 yrs to go. That would make me 68 yrs old. However I've hit a roadblock. Ruptured my Achilles this past Feb. Just starting to run albeit on a treadmill. Here's hoping for as much as a full recovery as possible.
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Todd Eastman
Social climber
Putney, VT
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Aug 30, 2018 - 01:11pm PT
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Crag,
Shredded mine in 2008, it got better in less than a year with steady rehab. It got normal again in a year and a half.
In the mean time adventure crutching can be fun! Hit the trails...
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Aug 30, 2018 - 01:34pm PT
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All this talk of dulfer made me think of the infamous bowline on a coil, my ribs hurt just thinking about it. (It's only been 46 for me, but haven't done much for years)
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Aug 30, 2018 - 02:35pm PT
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Used a bowline on a coil just a few years ago when I forgot my harness. It would have been preferable to have forgotten the bowline on a coil and remembered the harness, but we don't get to choose how our brains do or do not work.
There were some rappels, but light clothing contraindicated the dulfer, so I fashioned a "swiss seat" from slings just like BITD.
Only trouble was that the slings were 8mm dyneema...ouch!
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Aug 30, 2018 - 03:24pm PT
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Got rope and drivers license same day in 78'. But we had been climbing and rappelling on a 2" tow strap, 12 carabiners, homemade nuts and 1" webbing harnesses for years before hand, Still about 5 years short of this prestigious club. Armed with the knowledge of 'Starlight and Storm', 'Naked Before the Mountain' and 'Basic Rockcraft' we were off. Luckily we had cliffs up to 50' with in walking distance from our houses in Carson City, NV and no one took a serious 'lead' fall on our improvised equipment.
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gruzzy
Social climber
socal
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Aug 31, 2018 - 10:37pm PT
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Kudos to anyone in this club.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Proxy for Elaine Matthews.
"Though Matthews had some slow times in her climbing career, like when her daughter was young, this year [2015] she celebrates her 50th year climbing.
"She refers to it more like a relationship though, calling it her anniversary.
"Fifty years is an impressive length to be climbing in it’s own right, but it is made more impressive by the fact that she is still leading, and leading hard."
http://037200b.netsolhost.com/blog-page.php?Flashback-Elaine-Matthews-38
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jstan
climber
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I am 6 years away from achieving the anti-50 year roster. Been 44 years now since I pulled seriously on a rock.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Mouse! Nice link & a great article on Elaine Matthews!
I'll never forget the Vulgarian Digest photo of her & Pingora, in the Wind Rivers.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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God is good!
Been seeking that photo for years, Fritzoid.
I mean, it's such a great shot of Pingora, right?
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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One more year to go...tick tick , tick tock
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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I made my first roped climb in 1974 so, 44 years ago. Led a few routes in TMds this last week so I'm still working towards the 50 club
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ghand
Sport climber
Golden,Colorado
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Look like I just made the club. Probably Sonny and Juanita at Taylors Falls Minnesota Sept 1968 with Minnesota Rovers.
Going out to drill new routes tomorrow. Nothing quite like the smell of fresh drill dust in the morning!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Switzerland 1968:
Switzerland 2018:
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Almost there. Started climbing in 1971 at the age of 15. Still love rock climbing.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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North Georgia, 1953
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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I have a complete set of VD.
(wait,..... should I rephrase that?)
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Very good, Chiloe. Same for the other once-upon-a-timers.
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perswig
climber
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That's a great photo, Stahlbro!
And good thread, Jim; pulling lurkers out of the woodwork to add quality content.
Dale
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gruzzy
Social climber
socal
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Well done people. Rocking chairs seem like they'd be rather ho hum
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EdwardT
Trad climber
Retired
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Mouse - Thanks for posting the Elaine Matthews piece. Impressive pioneer.
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ghand
Sport climber
Golden,Colorado
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This is how we learned climbing in the 60's in Minnesota. I am the belayer and picture taker.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Thanks Dale. Some dank slot running with water on an unnamed Sierra FA.
Best of times.
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| Messages 1 - 147 of total 147 in this topic |
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