Eagle Creek Canyon ice TR


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james Colborn

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jan 22, 2007 - 11:25pm PT
I didn't step back to see how huge the ice was.. nice shots Atch. Temps today were the highest in two weeks. Good for work bad for ice.

Trad climber
Jan 23, 2007 - 11:23am PT
Some historical ice.


Trad climber
Jan 30, 2007 - 03:58pm PT
It's been pretty warm in South Lake lately. Any updates on the ice conditions? Has anyone been out in the past week?

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2009 - 01:09pm PT
Two years later, I returned with my friend Pavel and a new climbing buddy Justin. Spent the night before in Kirkwood at a timeshare condo that Pavel & his wife own, and drove over Carson Pass early. Around dawn in Hope Valley the car thermometer read 0F, and there was even one reading of -1F ! But as we crested Luther Pass and headed into South Lake Tahoe it warmed up.

Still, it seemed rather chilly as we hiked into the still-shadowed Eagle Lake Canyon on snowshoes. There were tracks for most of the way, around the south end of the lake, but we had to break trail up to Sunny Falls. By 9am or so the sun was baking the ice.

Pavel led up the one line that looked good.

We took some laps toproping the line into submission. Soon we were joined by Doug, who was breaking in some new nomics. The ice was getting slushy, so we headed to the south side of the canyon to look at the still-shady north-facing climbs.

Cutty Sark (some background here) was looking good, though a bit thin. With all the snow at the base it seemed to be in WI4-ish condition.

Pavel was again up to the challenge and led it.

We all took a few laps.



By mid-afternoon a skier came through the valley and watched. As the sun rose higher, the base of the climb got warm. I felt a little drowsy even. It was a nice day, spent with good people.

We hiked out and went for pizza in Meyers at Bob Dog, then continued on to Lee Vining Canyon for the weekend.

Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Mar 16, 2009 - 01:31pm PT
So many pics AND a climbing thread! I've not climbed ice - just looking at it makes my stomach get queasy. You guys are rad.

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Mar 16, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
Pretty neat!

Lee Vining, CA
Mar 16, 2009 - 03:14pm PT
just to clarify, the climb you refer to as "cutty sark" is.
the entire cliff is called "the whiskey cliffs"being quite popular in the early eighties due to lots of snow+rain+cold!
nice shots!

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2009 - 10:09am PT
Thanks all !

Crimpergirl -- you know, ice climbing is somewhat addictive :) There are generally no bugs to deal with in wintertime too ..

Mountain climber
Northern NV
Mar 17, 2009 - 11:29am PT
I am quite disappointed there is no picture of ME...or at least my new nomics.

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2009 - 11:42am PT
Oops, sorry Doug :( Pavel said he was going to burn a CD with the pics from his camera, which I'm supposed to pick up at the gym tonight..

In the meantime, some pics from Lee Vining Canyon -

Hiking in on Saturday

Pavel leading on the Main Wall (Saturday)

Pavel leading Chouinard Falls (Sunday)

Me having a go at some drytooling (Sunday)

I gave up not too long after this .. but here's Pavel - he made it up all the way to the ice above

(not to worry, I managed to thrash my way up a mixed route near the Tree Route -- no pics though)

Me practicing with one tool on Sunday
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Mar 17, 2009 - 12:08pm PT
awesome post. those are pretty awesome rock climbs in the summer, too.

i linked to this post on the south lake tahoe page

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2009 - 12:30pm PT
Fat Guy -- I will give yo a call later if I am going to be eating a lot of pepperonis and wanting to discuss politics. Heh.

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2009 - 10:59am PT
I picked up Pavel's pics and posted some of them .. here are some more, starting with Doug :)

Some more shots from Sunny Falls -



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