Yosemite Valley Big Wall Aug. 7th-15th

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johnhenry

Big Wall climber

Osaka, Japan

Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 19, 2018 - 10:58pm PT

Greetings,

Just got some really bummer news that my partner for the Zodiac fell through. I am flying in from my home in Osaka, Japan.

Looking to see if anyone would be interested in partnering up for a wall Aug. 7th-15th. I am pretty open minded about what we might do. Would be up for anything from a wall camping/slow-speed/multi-day [with tons of liquids ;) ] to something like the West Face of Leaning Tower in a push (I have a Silent Partner for short fixing).

As far as my climbing ability... For free, I lead Valley 5.8-9-ish. I have a ton of multi-pitch experience and about half a dozen first ascents. I have done one wall, the South Face of Washington Column, but I lead and hauled all the pitches. Have been doing practice aid routes that are A2/C3, and am proficient with hooks, cam hooks, and beaks. I have been generally training hard since Jan. for this trip: lean and hungry!

You can find out more about me personally on my homepage: http://www.japanjohn.com

Please shoot me a mail at japanjohn.com@gmail.com

Right on!

Cheers from Osaka...

john

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

Nothing creative to say

Jun 20, 2018 - 11:27am PT

bump thread

good luck!

seems like with your background the philosophical discussions had at the end of the day over beers would be great!

johnhenry

Big Wall climber

Osaka, Japan

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2018 - 04:55pm PT

Thanks for the bump, hombre!

Would be willing to throw in free beer and party favors to sweeten the partnership...

WBraun

climber

Jun 20, 2018 - 04:59pm PT

Good luck and go to the El Cap bridge when you get here.

That's where all the wall rats hang out and drool at El Cap.

Maybe you'll find a partner there ...... ?

thebravecowboy

climber

The Good Places

Jun 20, 2018 - 05:05pm PT

wow, 7 walls in 8 days! ;-)

have fun and do doublecheck your newfound pard

skywalker1

Trad climber

Jun 20, 2018 - 06:02pm PT

I'll give this a bump! I worked as a guide on the New and Gauley as well. 94-97. I mostly worked at AW and USA. Some videoing for Rivers and Extreme Ex. You kinda have to find work where you can get work.

Good Luck!

Cheers!

S...

neebee

Social climber

calif/texas

Jun 21, 2018 - 12:07am PT

hey there say, werner... nice to step in with some solid, and, kind advice...
your'rea good 'welcome to the valley' ... :)

johnhenry

Big Wall climber

Osaka, Japan

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2018 - 07:52pm PT

Hey folks.

Thanks, indeed for the positivity.

Werner, I used to have a shot of you on Astroman hanging on my wall, hombre.

Sound advice to start fixing and mingling around the bridge, but would just love to dial in a partner ahead of time, as the clock will be ticking.

BTW, Monday's quake here made me realize that you can get the chop anywhere. Check out my office:

Cheers from Osaka,

john

Tom

Big Wall climber

San Luis Obispo CA

Jun 21, 2018 - 10:48pm PT

A journey of 3000 feet begins with a single slide of the jug.

John Henry, at the base of Bermuda Dunes

If you're the John Henry I'm remembering, you'll remember casting me off, that time, on a journey of 3000 feet.

I am too old to be doing Big Walls during the Solar Cooking Season. I can barely get off the couch, even when it's not going to be 100 degrees.

VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV

So, it is you!

You made me throw away my cleaning tool, which was a shelf bracket that had tape on the big end. You said it was like a prison shank that would kill me, if I fell. Thank you.

Before that, I think you were there when I was cutting angle pins off in Camp Curry with a grinder, and making a helluva noise.

I've got a line on a wonderful wall climb. My green Roper's guidebook, from 1972, describes this route on the Washington Column called the East Face. It's rated Grade V, 5.9 A3. Warren Harding and Chuck Pratt established it. The description is delicious. That wall gets sun in the morning, but for most of the day it's in the shade. I figure two, maybe three days. There's a big slot, suitable for big cams. The approach is 33 minutes from the car. The walk-off descent is trivial. It's the same descent as for the Royal Arches. And then? Our re-entry would put us right at the Ahwahnee for coffee.

johnhenry

Big Wall climber

Osaka, Japan

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2018 - 11:04pm PT

Hey Tom!

Been a long time, my friend. You are one of the nicest and most enterprises cats out there.

Maybe some other time we could get together to climb. That would be killer.

Hope life is good. Take care... man.

john