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Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic |
johnhenry
Big Wall climber
Osaka, Japan
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 19, 2018 - 10:58pm PT
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Greetings,
Just got some really bummer news that my partner for the Zodiac fell through. I am flying in from my home in Osaka, Japan.
Looking to see if anyone would be interested in partnering up for a wall Aug. 7th-15th. I am pretty open minded about what we might do. Would be up for anything from a wall camping/slow-speed/multi-day [with tons of liquids ;) ] to something like the West Face of Leaning Tower in a push (I have a Silent Partner for short fixing).
As far as my climbing ability... For free, I lead Valley 5.8-9-ish. I have a ton of multi-pitch experience and about half a dozen first ascents. I have done one wall, the South Face of Washington Column, but I lead and hauled all the pitches. Have been doing practice aid routes that are A2/C3, and am proficient with hooks, cam hooks, and beaks. I have been generally training hard since Jan. for this trip: lean and hungry!
You can find out more about me personally on my homepage: http://www.japanjohn.com
Please shoot me a mail at japanjohn.com@gmail.com
Right on!
Cheers from Osaka...
john
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jun 20, 2018 - 11:27am PT
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bump thread
good luck!
seems like with your background the philosophical discussions had at the end of the day over beers would be great!
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johnhenry
Big Wall climber
Osaka, Japan
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2018 - 04:55pm PT
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Thanks for the bump, hombre!
Would be willing to throw in free beer and party favors to sweeten the partnership...
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WBraun
climber
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Jun 20, 2018 - 04:59pm PT
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Good luck and go to the El Cap bridge when you get here.
That's where all the wall rats hang out and drool at El Cap.
Maybe you'll find a partner there ...... ?
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Jun 20, 2018 - 05:05pm PT
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wow, 7 walls in 8 days! ;-)
have fun and do doublecheck your newfound pard
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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Jun 20, 2018 - 06:02pm PT
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I'll give this a bump! I worked as a guide on the New and Gauley as well. 94-97. I mostly worked at AW and USA. Some videoing for Rivers and Extreme Ex. You kinda have to find work where you can get work.
Good Luck!
Cheers!
S...
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jun 21, 2018 - 12:07am PT
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hey there say, werner... nice to step in with some solid, and, kind advice...
your'rea good 'welcome to the valley' ... :)
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johnhenry
Big Wall climber
Osaka, Japan
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2018 - 07:52pm PT
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Hey folks.
Thanks, indeed for the positivity.
Werner, I used to have a shot of you on Astroman hanging on my wall, hombre.
Sound advice to start fixing and mingling around the bridge, but would just love to dial in a partner ahead of time, as the clock will be ticking.
BTW, Monday's quake here made me realize that you can get the chop anywhere. Check out my office:
Cheers from Osaka,
john
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jun 21, 2018 - 10:48pm PT
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A journey of 3000 feet begins with a single slide of the jug.
John Henry, at the base of Bermuda Dunes
If you're the John Henry I'm remembering, you'll remember casting me off, that time, on a journey of 3000 feet.
I am too old to be doing Big Walls during the Solar Cooking Season. I can barely get off the couch, even when it's not going to be 100 degrees.
VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
So, it is you!
You made me throw away my cleaning tool, which was a shelf bracket that had tape on the big end. You said it was like a prison shank that would kill me, if I fell. Thank you.
Before that, I think you were there when I was cutting angle pins off in Camp Curry with a grinder, and making a helluva noise.
I've got a line on a wonderful wall climb. My green Roper's guidebook, from 1972, describes this route on the Washington Column called the East Face. It's rated Grade V, 5.9 A3. Warren Harding and Chuck Pratt established it. The description is delicious. That wall gets sun in the morning, but for most of the day it's in the shade. I figure two, maybe three days. There's a big slot, suitable for big cams. The approach is 33 minutes from the car. The walk-off descent is trivial. It's the same descent as for the Royal Arches. And then? Our re-entry would put us right at the Ahwahnee for coffee.
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johnhenry
Big Wall climber
Osaka, Japan
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2018 - 11:04pm PT
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Hey Tom!
Been a long time, my friend. You are one of the nicest and most enterprises cats out there.
Maybe some other time we could get together to climb. That would be killer.
Hope life is good. Take care... man.
john
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Jun 22, 2018 - 10:54am PT
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Doing East Face as a wall climb, lol. Enjoy the heckling from the free climbing mutants Tom!
And don't forget about Glen Denny on the FA
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Jun 22, 2018 - 02:15pm PT
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johnhenry, that picture of your office could be an ad for earthquake brackets installed on shelves, one with, one without.
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