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Gordon Wing
Social climber
CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 14, 2018 - 11:12pm PT
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thinning out my collection of outdoor gear catalogs ...... here's a nice pairing: The May 1967 Summit Magazine with the Nuts to You article by Royal Robbins & photos by Harry Daley. It might have been the first article about clean climbing in American mainstream media ? And the 1972 Chouinard catalog with the Chinese landscape cover - with his introduction to clean climbing ( nicely written and illustrated ) And a bonus: from the Eastern Trade / John Stannard - excerpts from Chouinard's clean climbing writings - printed and distributed for climbers in the Shawangunks. Let me know if anyone is interested in these catalogs.
working on adding photos of these catalogs .......
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jstan
climber
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Jun 15, 2018 - 09:01am PT
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I still remember the feeling I had the moment I realized what the change in climbing had taught us. When we work together, no problem is too large for us to solve.
We can do anything.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Jun 15, 2018 - 09:24am PT
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I want to back up what John (Jstan) just posted. It was really remarkable how completely the climbing culture changed (at least in regards to protection techniques)in an incredibly short time. There was a bit of a slow start after Robbins' initial article in Summit (and the example he gave by making the first ascent of Nutcracker on all 'clean' gear). But once things really got going, roughly in 1969/70, it only took a season, or 2, at most, for pitons to virtually disappear. at least for free climbing protection, in much of the country. I think a number of factors contributed to this--the articles, the personal examples of leading climbers such as Robbins, Doug Robinson, and,particularly in the Gunks, Jstan.,easier availability and better design of 'nuts'--especially those from Chouinard and Frost, and that it was occurring simultaneously with the 'birth' of the modern conservation movement (Earth Day). Whatever the causes though, it was, as John says, a great example of the good that can happen when people work together towards a positive goal.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 15, 2018 - 09:41am PT
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The main reason for the rapid change was the enormous peer pressure that has always been present in the climbing community.
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jstan
climber
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Jun 15, 2018 - 09:51am PT
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Some of the heroes are seldom mentioned. Yvon and all the owners of climbing stores. Very early on pitons were taken down off the walls. And placed in a drawer underneath the cash register.
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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Jun 15, 2018 - 02:55pm PT
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Some other impacts of climbing are:
trail braiding
poorly planned steep paths causing erosion
shortcuts
Often times there is a route that stays on solid rock or stable steps much of the way. But it's not very visible, since there are no footprints on solid rock, and sometimes it even gets overgrown since there is no erosion problem. Yet nearby or alongside of that there may be a steep path in the dirt, eroding away the topsoil. This loose erosion scarred mess will be highly visible, attracting more people who think that a scar is a trail.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 16, 2018 - 06:55pm PT
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Gordon- I am interested in the material that you have for the North American Climbing History Archives (NACHA) my 501c3 educational nonprofit. You can reach me at scgrossman (at) msn (dot) com.
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Tamara Robbins
climber
not a climber, just related...
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Jun 19, 2018 - 10:36pm PT
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John... interesting that I just noticed this thread, as a few days ago I came across correspondence between you and Dad circa July-Aug of '73. If you don't have, and would like copies of it, please let me know! Pretty sure you have my contact info, if not let me know and I'll email you. ;)
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