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originalpmac
Mountain climber
Timbers of Fennario
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May 23, 2018 - 09:55am PT
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It's like the old saying, If you pack bivy gear, you'll use it.
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RURP_Belay
Big Wall climber
Bitter end of a bad anchor
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May 23, 2018 - 12:14pm PT
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*Beginner's Mind Interlude*
I remember when I was just starting to climb in 1989: everything was SO expensive, and I had to really scrimp to get the gear I wanted - starting with carabiners & webbing. Every caribiner was important. I didn't know about "booty", "quick-links", and I wasn't very good. But I wanted to try hard stuff. I went to Smith a few times with friends and we threw our n00b selves on stuff that A) We had never climbed before, and B) that was going to challenge us. We weren't afraid to fall, but got in over our heads and had to bail a bit. Leaving carabiners was a real bummer. This thing would've sounded awesome!
*End Beginner's Mind Interlude*
I guess if you had cash to throw around, it was NBD - but for a lot of us collecting a rack and draws was a long, sustained effort at the beginning.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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May 23, 2018 - 12:47pm PT
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https://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/htmlpubs/htm01232826/page04.htm
For rapping not lowering, but pretty damn simple and cheap
The Geartriever can recover slings and
runners. A sling is passed through a fixed anchor.
The Geartriever is attached to the end of the climbing rope.
A tension band is placed on one end of the sling.
When the rope is pulled, the sling comes with it.
The Geartriever’s inventor and manufacturer has a patent. He stated that he would not sell this device in the United States because of legal issues.
Webbing is run around or through an anchor (he uses a bolt hanger in his example!) and the rope is run directly directly through both ends of webbing. One end is tied in a small loop with and elastic band. When you get to the bottom of the rappel, you attach a cone shaped device to the end of one strand of rope. Pull the rope through the webbing. When the cone gets to the webbing, it slides through the larger loop of webbing on one side but gets blocked by the smaller loop of webbing on the other side. This then pulls the webbing through the anchor and down to the ground.
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