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sonicimpulse
Sport climber
Willoughby
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 22, 2018 - 06:52am PT
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I ran across this new device called the firefly. What I can't find is how to safely use this device. My question is if you get lowered to quickly could the cord force the quick draw loose and you come crashing down. Does the wait of the climber stop that from happening.
Any help on how to use this safely would be great.
Thank you,
Ken
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sonicimpulse
Sport climber
Willoughby
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2018 - 07:19am PT
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Then why even reply to this question?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 22, 2018 - 07:24am PT
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People reply to questions for all sorts of reasons on internet forums....occasionally even to answer the question posed.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Polebridge, Montana
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May 22, 2018 - 07:47am PT
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This is a device for climbers who get skeeeeeered easily. If you yell "TAKE" a lot then this tool is for you.
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WBraun
climber
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May 22, 2018 - 08:11am PT
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Oh fux sake you st00pid haters it's a device that if you need it it's there.
Looks good and get one if you want it ......
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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May 22, 2018 - 08:21am PT
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Quite clever...I'd add one to my rack but I just bootied 6 carabiners a couple weeks ago and they'll keep me in bail biners for the foreseeable future!
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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May 22, 2018 - 09:45am PT
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When I bail I sort of sheepishly and in a low key way get lowered off a bail biner. I wouldn't want to be busting out all sorts of string and a weird attention grabbing do-hickey for everyone to gawk at.
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Heyzeus
climber
Hollywood,Ca
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May 22, 2018 - 10:46am PT
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If you're going to be carrying that small pull-cord anyway, just put a piece of webbing through the bolt, rap on that, and pull the webbing with the cord, a la a French Retreat. Which is the same thing minus the pull-cord. The length of rappel (on a French Retreat) is only a third of the rope length, not half the rope length as the do-hickey.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 22, 2018 - 12:40pm PT
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The video on their website is weird.
The narrator says "rappel," but the guy lowers. Keep in mind this puts about 2x the load on the bolt, compared to rappelling. The narrator says "clean off the carabiners below it," the climber does not. If he were to, and there's not much point to the thing if he doesn't, he'd be on one bolt with the force multiplied by the belayer (as opposed to rappelling.)
If it were me, I'd try to get to the anchor any way I can. If that's a no go I'd figure I'm in over my head, kiss the top draw goodbye (or a 'biner if I can,) leave a leaver 'biner on the next bolt below, and continue to be lowered while cleaning.
To me, if you can't get to the anchor by any means possible - fighting it out climbing bolt to bolt - it's time to work on yourself, not the route.
That or leave the draws for another try later.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Polebridge, Montana
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May 22, 2018 - 03:16pm PT
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What Kris said, exactly. Its part of the fun, having to work it out, a little epic, a little cottonmouth.
Werner you pussy! :)
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RURP_Belay
Big Wall climber
Bitter end of a bad anchor
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May 22, 2018 - 03:51pm PT
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Looks cool & worth the $$ if you bail a lot.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Edit: The Occam device is fine for a fixed rope, most sport climbers are being lowered. So exactly how does that work?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 22, 2018 - 06:00pm PT
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...if you bail a lot.
Maybe I'm thinking it out wrong, but imo if you're bailing a lot you you should cut back a grade or two, climb there until you can send a variety of types of climbs at the grade, then move up. It's called progressing.
It's the most fun to try a route that you have a chance, if you make you best attempt, to onsight it. If you fail at that at least you can probably get to the anchors and get down safely without some kooky contraption.
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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May 22, 2018 - 07:42pm PT
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Way H#%#!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 22, 2018 - 07:53pm PT
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Ksolem...cutting back a grade is antithetical to the quest for ever higher numbers to post on social media. Have you ever noticed how many people aid their way up free climbs (Coyne Crack comes to mind) and then conveniently forget how many times they hung?
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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May 22, 2018 - 09:30pm PT
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I have a way to clean a draw off a bolt leaving nothing behind using $2.00 worth of cord... I could tell you how... but I'd have to kill you
... if the technique didn't first.
PS this device is clever but seems a bit gimmicky ... probably soon to be retired to the Marty Karrabin museum. How much does it cost? How many disposable bail quick-links can you buy for the same amount...just out of curiosity?
Edit to add: I just looked it up- it's $40.00
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 22, 2018 - 09:46pm PT
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...and then conveniently forget how many times they hung
But I've been repeatedly assured that's how it's done.
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perswig
climber
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May 23, 2018 - 03:10am PT
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The Firefly allows you to push yourself to try harder climbs without the added stress of potentially losing gear
What the what?
Dale
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