Scared Peaches

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List

This thread has been locked

Messages 1 - 20 of total 22 in this topic

<< First | < Previous | Show All | Next > | Last >>

Peter Arbic

climber

Topic Author's Original Post - May 21, 2018 - 09:54pm PT

Someone has decided this classic trad route at Lake Louise needed a couple of bolts again. Any opinions out there ?

Delhi Dog

climber

Good Question...

May 21, 2018 - 10:03pm PT

needed a couple of bolts again

Again?
Were they chopped and then rebolted?

Peter Arbic

climber

Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2018 - 10:21pm PT

FFA had a few pins . These were eventually replaced by bolts ( justified by the pins ) which in turn were removed by the bolter (me and Perry) when we realized excellent solid gear exists without either. It has been boltless for 20 years.

Peter Arbic

climber

Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2018 - 12:01am PT

Well his van said it ... " Bolts are a disease and I am the cure" .... but as far as I am aware he has taken no interest in the changes over the years other than initially transforming it from an aid route to a free climb.
.

Chief

climber

The NW edge of The Hudson Bay

May 22, 2018 - 12:55am PT

PA,

Nice surprise seeing you chime in here.
Can’t think about the Scared Peaches wall without remembering our horrific close call where I either tried to kill you or saved your life, depending how you look at it.
I know if I hadn’t grabbed that rope a couple meters from the bitter end, you’d have been smashed to death on that big nugget and our friends would have said I killed you.

I have some history with Scared Peaches as covered on another thread here somewhere.

I belayed and followed Dave Morgan on an early (maybe first?) free ascent of the first pitch in the early eighties.
The belay as I recall, was above a wide spot below the roof.

Later, Josh added another pitch sharing the Air Voyage belay then another to the top of the wall.
Sometime in the early nineties, around the same time I almost killed you, I climbed all three pitches and speculated it would be cool to bypass the Air Voyage belay and climb the whole route in one mega 45 meter pitch.

There were a few crusty pins and when I asked Josh about the idea of replacing some of the pins with bolts, he said “Bolt it all and let God sort it out”.

I think I replaced four or five pins with bolts overall and led the whole thing thinking climbing couldn’t get any better.
I remember the late “Every Day Dave Thompson” madder than a hornet and threatening to throw rocks at me while I was drilling.
He settled down some when I offered to come down and serve him a fresh knuckle sandwich.

I later heard that Sonnie chopped the bolts and climbed the route without them.
If true, a healthy evolution of a great route by a great climber.

Wondering when you put bolts in this route?

I think with the quality of newer widgets and the larger nuts most modern climbers carry, the route shouldn’t have bolts.

The lesson learned during our near death experience resonates every time I belay someone.
Stopper knot until I’m tied directly in and loudly announcing “You’re Off Belay” when someone intimates they’re Secure, Safe, In or whatever passes for modern vernacular.

Hope you’re well brother,

PB

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

May 22, 2018 - 07:00am PT

You will probably need to elucidate the matter in order to get much of a response from below the 49th parallel. Most here, myself included, aren't familiar with the climb.

Peter Arbic

climber

Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2018 - 07:57am PT

Thanks Jim ...there are a few Canucks north of 49 who I'm hoping will speak up. It is a worthy all weather route if you are at Lake Louise cause you got skunked in the bugs... Hey Perry ... A day I will never forget. I definitely consider that you saved my life and am tickled you spread the story around, as I get to hear it again from new people all the time! A few years after we "fixed it up " for the mega pitch someone chopped the Dave Morgan station under the roof (which Whalen had bolted ) . With a bit of soul searching I chopped the bolts added ( 3 on the first pitch )and sent the full rig without ... It turned out the original pin placements yielded locks and bomber gear placements once the rusty steel was gone and the bolts were in fact distracting . As you say , an evolution in style and I believed an even more classic a route sans spitz. It got good
reviews in it's naked form and has remained boltless ...till now apparently

Chief

climber

The NW edge of The Hudson Bay

May 22, 2018 - 08:25am PT

Peter,

Thanks for the clarification.
Still a healthy evolution of a great climb by a great climber.
Get rid of those new bolts.

Say what you will but I’ll go to my grave glad I didn’t kill a good friend and living legend in one of the closest calls I’ve ever had climbing.

Stay well!

PB

Trad climber

Calgary

May 22, 2018 - 11:21am PT

For the benefit of non locals

The quartzite cliffs at the back of Lake Louise are a great cragging area in a spectacular setting. They became a proving ground in the 80's for local climbers to test their limits and up the standards. Scared Peaches was one of the hardest (maybe the hardest?) BITD hence the interest in bolting/bolt removal/rebolting.
A visitor could have a great trip from Revelstoke (and south) through to Lake Louise and north on the highway 93 just climbing on quartzite. Avoid the limestone!

ionlyski

Trad climber

Polebridge, Montana

May 22, 2018 - 12:15pm PT

It is really great rock and great routes. I've only climbed at the tourist crag. Can't wait to go back again.

Arne

JLP

Social climber

The internet

May 22, 2018 - 12:56pm PT

History shouldn't matter. Go gather your pennies and buy the land if want to dictate the bolts and the experience of others.

That said, not having done the route, if it's reasonable for a climber of the grade (ie, not an elite 5.14 climber) to do the thing ground up, unrehearsed, sans bolts, with typical modern gear, then there should not be bolts. Doesn't sound this way, though.

Chief

climber

The NW edge of The Hudson Bay

May 22, 2018 - 01:35pm PT

The usual armchair analysis far from the fight.

Peter Arbic

climber

Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2018 - 01:40pm PT

JLP ... It's as close to a world class gear route as you'll find in the rockies as well as safe for a competent leader at the grade with a pretty standard rack . Many sans spitz ascents have confirmed this. The only accident I am aware of was with bolts in place and the result of someone not placing ground fall preventing gear because he was gunning for the first bolt ( his words) . No doubt Perry had Joshes "have at" with the bolts cause I helped put some of them in before taking them out again but regarding the concept of public domain , we might also just decide it's better left alone especially at an area that lends itself so well to trad style and where many other routes are retrobolted to death already.
Frostback...if you are talking about Shady Grove , I desire you know who to send it soon cause its the awesomeist little line...I warn you her dad's a scary logger ... if not what are you talking about ? and give a big hug to sausage fingers , whoever you are , but I think I got it figured out. FBI... remember... if the fighting does get close, that armchair may come in handy...

Peter Arbic

climber

Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2018 - 06:10pm PT

I thought this was the dark web for climber luddites types but apparently all my old buddys live here. For those who weighed in, sounds like the new bolt sheriffs will be there tomorrow with a crow bar. Good talk .

JLP

Social climber

The internet

May 22, 2018 - 07:12pm PT

The guy who put them there might have a good reason that he believes in. You could come back a few days later and find 1/2" SS glue ins. You might go find the guy and ask him why he added the bolts and consider that first.

Peter Arbic

climber

Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2018 - 07:47pm PT

It's not easy drilling so they must have had a reason but are unlikely to think a bigger hole is a good idea.

nah000

climber

now/here

May 22, 2018 - 11:57pm PT

some good stuff in this thread... always enjoyable hearing some good canadian rockies lore... so, thanks.

also found another previous thread here, with more good stuff about scared peaches...

if nothing else, it's worth a read to hear the rest of the story behind what leads to the one liner found at the end of peter croft's post:

"Then Josh came back with that classic line - "What are you - gay?" I remember him standing there all righteous, hands on hips, in his skin tight lycra (sans briefs) and all that that implies. Still not sure if he was hitting on me or just angry."

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

Nothing creative to say

May 23, 2018 - 07:21am PT

May 22, 2018 - 01:29pm PT
Rise to meet the challenge, don't ever bring the challenge down to you. If you haven't the skill set, bugger off... there's a billion moderates out there to climb... just ask the guys bolting at Pinnacles ;-)

Charles

Good ole Charles implying that moderate climbers should fuk off when establishing new lines ground up, usually from stance, at Pinnacles. Only the young climbers then? All the old timers have to stop, is that it? Hahhahaa