How hard is the Diamond?

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LuckyJack

Trad climber
Novato, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - May 16, 2018 - 12:18am PT
So I’m headed out to Colorado in a few weeks, and assuming conditions are good, I would like to climb the Casual Route on The Diamond. From the mountainproject description it looks very moderate. Lots of pitches of 5.7 a few 5.8, a pitch of 5.9 a move of 10a. But it’s reputation is much harder than that, “pitch after pitch of hard 5.9” is what I hear. Can anyone compare it to Valley routes? We’re talking harder than East Buttress of Middle but easier than EB of El Cap? Or MP is misleading and we’re talking more like NEB? Easier than Steck-Salathe though, right? Let me know in the comments! Thanks.
skywalker1

Trad climber
co
May 16, 2018 - 12:39am PT
The Diamond is different from YOS. its more face climbing around cracks and stemming. You use the cracks but you also use a lot of small flakes as crimps and such, gymnastic if you will. Not exactly sustained but it is steep.

The crux of the Diamond is stamina (12 miles hiking? round trip) and altitude and strategy. Bivy spots are good at Chasm Lake. Weather is always an issue, but there is always this window mid June for some reason where its just stable as all get out. Otherwise get off by 1:00. You can pretty much get outta there at any point on fixed "stuff". The standard raps are sorta hard to see, most are hanging (no ledge) but are there. Ask locals about the north face descent AND camels descent because this second descent while challenging will save you quite bit of hiking. Don't forget to grab a sharp rock or two on the way up to the North Chimney in the morning. ;-)

The Casual Route only has really one hard crux pitch above Yellow Wall Bivy. Oh stay a bit high on the 5.7 traverse.

Don't be shy about Pervertical. But bring two #4's.


Good Luck! Go on a weekday!!!!!!

S...
LuckyJack

Trad climber
Novato, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2018 - 01:15am PT
Thanks, I’ll definitely be up there on a weekday, and be acclimatized, and be in hiking shape, it’s just the hard climbing I’m afraid of, haha, I mean it’s the casual route, how hard can it be, right?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 16, 2018 - 03:20am PT
Remember, the routes start at over 13,000’! That alone gives it an aspect not found in Yosemite. I always found that the long “ easy” pitches were more work that the ones with short distinct and much technically harder cruxes. You try to go faster and get winded in those rarified heights. Comparing the pitch difficulties to things of the same difficulties in the lowlands is misleading.

It’s like people who avoid routes like the exum ridge on the grand because the pitch rating is too low. Believe me, that’s the least of your worries!

That said all, allrounders should do something on this wall!
Don Paul

Social climber
Denver CO
May 16, 2018 - 05:10am PT
It took me three tries to climb it. The first time, we bailed on the hike up there, in a white out with lightning raining down all around. That was my first experience with lightning storms in the mountains. The second time, bivied in the talus at chasm lake - there are excellent spots and you don't need a tent. At 6:00 AM it was snowing hard, and once again had to bail. The third time the weather was good, and the route was actually pretty casual, although it started snowing on the last pitch. I'm sure all those attempts were in late summer when the weather is best. Although bivying in the talus was a fun experience, it's a lot more work to carry camping gear up there, and most people these days do the route in a long day.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 16, 2018 - 05:48am PT
Diamonds are hard, they can cut glass...this diamond can kick your ass. Remember, the climbing starts off Broadway at 13,000 ft. The ratings are real and haven’t been adjusted dowh for altitude. That said, the climbing is fantastic.
I agree with skywalker about Pervertical, it’s a wonderful climb.The crux is thin hands but don’t underestimate the wide crack on the next pitch.
Start early, it faces east and you get very early sun. Summer means good temperatures but afternoons often have thunderstorms....not a pleasant event at that altitude.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
May 16, 2018 - 08:30am PT
Most like NEB, of your list, except possibly like doing it with a very heavy pack to simulate the altitude. Most who succeed in a way that their ascent didn't clog up the entire wall for everyone else - these guys are probably able to rather quickly dispatch 5.11- ish routes of similar length and style at lower altitudes with shorter approaches.

It's all moot, though - it's a pretty unusual year that thing opens up in early June. Usually mid-July, maybe a little earlier for those willing to deal with wet cracks. I can see this mountain from my window. Today - it's still winter up there. Kiener's, for example, would probably be 100% snow travel from Chasm Lake to the summit.
Gooney

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
May 16, 2018 - 08:51am PT
There are a couple of squeeze chimney sections that I found engaging, one after the traverse pitch and the other between the crux moves and Table Ledge. Those were pretty aerobic given the altitude.
LuckyJack

Trad climber
Novato, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2018 - 08:54am PT
I said a few weeks, but it’s actually the last week of June we’ll be up there. Being at sea level though, I do forget how long the mountains hang onto winter. We may give it a pass this year for an objective we can tackle with more confidence.
ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
May 16, 2018 - 09:30am PT
Pretty well captured above. The wall is steep and forbidding, and you don't get a good view necessarily of what the weather is doing. Don't overlook the potential north chimney approach difficulties. When I climbed the Casual we got off the traverse just as all hell broke loose, which was probably around noon. Try to hide from lightning and hail near the summit of Longs. Lots of lightning potential in the Front Range.

Coming from sea level to vertical rock at 13K+ is a challenge. I would recommend climbing something like Halletts, topping out at 12K, as a warm up a couple days in advance.
Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
May 16, 2018 - 12:31pm PT
hey there say, st00pid Americans... the Diamond has a Mohs hardness rating of 7.

Pot calling the kettle black? What a conundrum...

Quartz is 7. Diamond is 10, and corundum is 9. Corundum is aluminum oxide, Al2O3, and many times you will see the words “aluminum oxide” on the back of sandpaper/abrasive material – it is corundum. Garnet is also used for sandpaper, etc.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mohs_scale_of_mineral_hardness
spectreman

Trad climber
May 16, 2018 - 01:30pm PT
The Casual Route is great but can feel burly given the approach, N. Chimney, and the overall altitude of the Diamond.
If you want something a little easier then you should consider "The Barb" on The Spearhead. Shorter, but still long approach, and an absolutely amazing alpine cirque to hang out in. The Barb has one 5.10 pitch that is probably a little harder for one move than the Casual route but is, overall, a much easier day.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
May 16, 2018 - 03:57pm PT
You don't want to underestimate the effects of climbing at altitude when coming from sea level - they are significant. I remember my first month-long trip just up to Eldo from Southern Illinois was an ass-licking that didn't seem to stop for several weeks and I felt like I was just finally fully acclimatizing the day before I had to leave. And that was just Eldo, let alone just getting into town and heading directly up to 12k+ feet at the Diamond.
Don Paul

Social climber
Denver CO
May 16, 2018 - 04:23pm PT
Jack with all this beta you can't lose. I didn't intend to sandbag you, I forget I'm acclimatized from hiking at 10k all the time. Another option if you want to just go up there is "the Loft" - 4th class, but not something I would recommend to a non-climber. Click through the pix for the beta. I got lost after the Longs/Meeker saddle and need to get back up there to try again.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
May 16, 2018 - 04:33pm PT
A Diamond day is like a triathalon performed starting at 12,000 feet or so. The three parts are roughly:

1. Hike to base from parking lot and scramble up to Broadway ledge: 3.5 to 4 hrs
2. Do climb: typically, 5 to 9 hrs, I suppose. Topping out in lightening storm is fairly typical
3. Hike back to car: 3 to 4 hrs

I mostly remember whining during events 1 and 3 (including the very end of 2).
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 16, 2018 - 04:43pm PT
Don’t sugar coat it, Grug.....
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
May 16, 2018 - 04:48pm PT
How much lightening happens in a lightening storm?
Are we talking a couple pounds or what?
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
May 16, 2018 - 04:49pm PT
The whining during event 1 typically goes something like "Are we there yet Dad?" The whining during event 3 typically goes something along the lines of "My feet hurt!" The whining during the end of event 2 really isn't a true whining. More like an expression of terror and focused purpose to get your ass lower than you are -- aka DOWN. This can often lead to up to a half an hour reduction in time span for event 3.

Oplopanax; If only it was so easy to shed those lbs.
matlinb

Trad climber
Fort Collins, CO
May 17, 2018 - 08:54pm PT
So what would be an equivalent climb be in the Sierras? I have climbed the Casual Route, Tuolumne, and the Valley and all three quite different. Would The Diamond be more like the Incredible Hulk with the Casual Route being similar to Beeline? I was on the Diamond the day Jon Siegrist did the second ascent of the Full Dunn/Westbay at 5.14a. It was the most incredible thing I have ever seen in my life and totally immortalized my memory of the place.
skywalker1

Trad climber
co
May 17, 2018 - 09:27pm PT
^Don't ask me but I remember climbing Curving Vine on the Diamond and watching as Tommy Caldwell and Topher Donahue climb 5 routes on the D over like 10hrs. They even climbed Curving Vine once we topped out and "unclogged" it. LOL

S...
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
May 17, 2018 - 10:47pm PT
June might be a bit early to get on the Diamond, especially the Casual Route. It's best to get really good intel on the snow situation(maybe check at Neptune Mountaineering) before heading up there. Every year is different so it is best to check on current conditions.
skywalker1

Trad climber
co
May 18, 2018 - 12:37am PT
^^^In the most respectful way I disagree completely. June is fine. The cracks are dry left of D1 by June. Again strategy. Where can you leave crampons or boots? Broadway? Yes! Rap the wall and pick them up on the way down. Yes! Check topos and talk to the right locals, yes!

The first ascent of Enos Mill Wall was done 60 years ago in winter. June is not a big deal just altitude.

I think sometimes we need to remember to be positive and cheering on those who look for help and want to do cool things.

S...
dauwhe

Trad climber
Greenfield, MA
May 18, 2018 - 05:11am PT
Useful info on preparing: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/107079222/training-for-the-diamond-on-longs-peak?page=2
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
May 18, 2018 - 06:33am PT
Skywalker,

I once did the Casual Route in mid-July and had to climb a 40-foot vertical snow wall in rock shoes with no pro right off the belay on pitch 4. It all depends on what kind of snow year they have had in Colorado so you really have to check with the locals.
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
May 18, 2018 - 07:39am PT
I think sometimes we need to remember to be positive and cheering on those who look for help and want to do cool things.

Being positive is important, but being realistic is too. For most years, most of the Diamond is wet during June. It is the most demanding alpine rock venue I've ever experienced. It starts at around 13K, not 12K which is a big difference that you feel. It is very steep, as in scraping-your-nose steep. Besides being significantly higher than say the Hulk, the rock is generally not as good. The N. chimney approach can be quite serious, especially with other parties above. And afternoon T-storms are a real and consistent thing on the Front Range during the summer months.

When being positive becomes sandbagging, I have to disagree.
skywalker1

Trad climber
co
May 18, 2018 - 08:23am PT
Maybe so. I just get fired up and want to go and go.

S...
JLP

Social climber
The internet
May 18, 2018 - 08:25am PT
June has been fine in the past, but most years it's not. From a distance, possibly from a web cam, if snow is still visible on upper Kiener's, then the free routes probably still have wet sections, best case.

Going for it in less than optimal conditions - that's great - but it's also the sign of a rookie. Time and experience open up more options for all possible conditions and decreases interest pissing a precious day of your life away having a crappy experience or having to bail off something. A rookie hears about RMNP and only thinks of the Diamond, and then only thinks of the Casual - but there are actually a couple other climbs in the area. Spearhead, for example, five star 5.6-5.12, some of the best rock in the park - it's typical to be able to climb in sunshine there while the Diamond is getting pounded in hail just a few miles away.
skywalker1

Trad climber
co
May 18, 2018 - 09:47am PT
Mmmm tread lightly.

I agree that there are ton's of other high quality routes in the park. Getting spanked or worse is always possible. But comfort level is individual. I just disagree that June is a no go. And there are weather windows. If you are skilled and acclimated you can have a wonderful experience.

I suppose if you have to ask then don't go. Ultimately I'm not interested in an argument cause we will just go around in circles.

Cheers!

S...
jogill

climber
Colorado
May 18, 2018 - 10:47am PT
How entertaining to read this thread.

In August of 1954, at the age of 17 and just out of high school (Atlanta), and with no real knowledge of climbing, I wandered up the east face of Longs wearing JCHiggins work boots and carrying a 50 foot hemp rope - my first mountain adventure. I wondered about the Diamond as I scrambled. It was viewed with awe at the time. When would someone bold enough to attempt this fearsome challenge appear?

A few years later my friends Kamps and Rearick accomplished the feat.


And now it's "An easy day for a lady", as the Prophet declared so long ago.


;>)
Don Paul

Social climber
Denver CO
May 18, 2018 - 05:44pm PT
"It was viewed with awe at the time." I'm still awestruck every time I go up there, which I make sure to do at least once a year. It's one of the proudest walls you'll ever see. Here's what it looks like in the winter. This picture was taken from the treeline. I couldn't get closer without snowshoes.

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 18, 2018 - 06:40pm PT
In my opinion, always better to be conservative when branching out into a new area, especially one that involves loose rock and altitude. If you want something in the ballpark of East Buttress of Middle, then, adjusting for altitude, and given that you've never climbed in RMNP, I'd recommend Petit Grepon.

It will be clobbered on the weekends with other parties: especially the standard South Face route. Climb it during the week, and perhaps go for the less traveled route Southwest Corner. 5.9 and ~9 pitches, easily done car to car in a day. I find hiking in to a high bivouac just adds overall fatigue, so I avoid it whenever possible. Leave the car well before sunrise (4am) with a headlamp and by the time you arrive at the base of the Petit, you will be warmed up and ready to go.

I feel the same strategy works best for The Diamond, though with a considerably earlier start. I came from California and in my first year living in Colorado cruised the Yellow Wall, car to car in a day, but I'd already been up Astroman, Rostrum North Face and etc. My partner was clocking my lead times on Yellow Wall at 10 minutes each. Then he would take 20 minutes to follow, which I considered a bit too carefree, even on a bluebird day.

When people talk about thunderstorms between noon and one o'clock, they really mean it. You want to be climbing at first light and heading down between 11 AM and 12 noon. Far different from the High Sierra. So choose an objective that is easily within your range, at least for your first couple of goals in RMNP. And yes, the Diamond can be what Randy Leavitt once described as a weeping gash of rock if you get on it too early in the season. I live at 8,200' on the Colorado Front Range (Nederland). We had a weak winter, but are currently in the midst of a typical heavy spring precipitation pattern.
curt wohlgemuth

Social climber
Bay Area, California
May 18, 2018 - 07:31pm PT
I have no info to offer on the Diamond. But consider the Keyhole (hiking) route on Longs vs the Mt Whitney trail. When I did the Keyhole a couple years ago, I was amazed at (a) how serious it was (ice in August, 40F, 40MPH winds, class 2-3) and (b) how many freaking people were there on a Wednesday. All I can say is that Coloradoans are a hard bunch of folks!
i-b-goB

Social climber
Wise Acres
May 18, 2018 - 08:54pm PT
Depends what route you choose?
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
May 18, 2018 - 09:11pm PT
Cali dudes, listen to Tarbuster.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 19, 2018 - 07:59am PT
The Tar knows....
JLP

Social climber
The internet
May 19, 2018 - 09:24am PT
An "early start" on Casual could just land you sitting in a line of goobers on Broadway, well before sunrise. The stream of headlamps can run pretty much all night in good weather.

As for getting off before noon - good luck with that equation. On the Casual, it will depend on others and it's the ones who know they are slow that get up the earliest.

Also, as you venture to longer and harder routes (always) you'll eventually need to learn to take a pounding and keep going. You'll also learn to better read and head forecasts after a few of those poundings and realize weather controls your climbing calendar, you don't, so stay flexible in your planning.

The only thing I would agree with is to go in stronger than the route, so you have some margin, and also have a rack and topo figured out for at least 2 other routes.
hacky47

Trad climber
goldhill
May 19, 2018 - 09:39am PT
high pressure weather windows happen.... .... I have seen locals ( rope guns for sure) hike in late when the weather is blue bird and send....i was always hiking out....Tarbuster does know what he is talking about...10 minutes to lead a pitch 20 mins to follow...it gets climbed (most rts ) in under 4 hrs {just the rock pitches ) frequently.... cardio fittness is the key.....climbing lower elevation formations is great fun and will prepare you well... n chimney is dangerous with climbers above there are other options.. i would not climb the chimney with climbers above (i have, never again)....
i've been climbing up there for 25 years it has not changed... be fit... have fun...go for it...

hacky47

Trad climber
goldhill
May 19, 2018 - 09:48am PT
The JLP knows...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 19, 2018 - 10:19am PT
Yes he does.

The last thing I want to do is get in a conga line behind a bunch of slower climbers in the mountains.
For that reason, I've found little interest in climbs like the Casual Route, especially in the modern era. Same with the regular South Face route on Petit and so forth.

And anymore (for quite some time now), it's all popular.
So this, for sure:
and also have a rack and topo figured out for at least 2 other routes.
hacky47

Trad climber
goldhill
May 19, 2018 - 10:54am PT
if i hear someone say "i just climbed the diamond" i will always take interest...yes it is hard....longs peak is....i am inexplicably drawn to this mtn
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
May 19, 2018 - 11:01am PT
The Diamond is truly beautiful. You can't help but be drawn in by it when you see it. I'm glad this thread was started. I'm gonna do a Diamond climb for the first time in several seasons, I think.
hacky47

Trad climber
goldhill
May 19, 2018 - 11:02am PT
fun fact:

Stella Noble climbed the casual rte when she was 9 years old!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
May 19, 2018 - 11:23am PT
Pervertical is much drier than the Casual. Not likely to be much harder considering who put it up. This year the snowpack is lighter. Still I'd wait for July.


Heed the advice about altitude and weather.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 19, 2018 - 11:45am PT
And LuckyJack, anticipating the odds are good you'll be getting up something here in Colorado at the end of June: please post up a trip report!
hacky47

Trad climber
goldhill
May 19, 2018 - 12:07pm PT
took me a sec...the iron messiah knows...the perv is one of the best rts in the world...starts at the bottom of the lower east face, no? huge....
winter?

ahhh.. the history....thinking of Tobin
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 19, 2018 - 01:40pm PT
Here you go, LuckyJack,
Breadcrumbs for mining some alternate ideas should you decide the Casual Route is not your target on this particular upcoming trip:

The Diamond
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/435716/The-Diamond

RMNP photo TR
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/647783/RMNP-Photo-TR

Southwest Ridge Petit Grepon TR
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/869535/2009-05-15-Petit-Grepon-TR

South Ridge of Notchtop TR
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=970289&msg=970289#msg970289

And if some of these photos threads are missing links due to pbbucket pay wall practices, just search for a browser extension that will fix the problem.
………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

And if you really want to cast a broad net and burn some brain cells:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/556646/Serious-Question-For-All-You-Colorado-Climbing-Experts

Scrambles Amongst the Rockies: part 1
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/196724/Scrambles-Amongst-The-Rockies
Rocky Mountain High: Scrambles part 2
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/204602/Rocky-Mountain-High-scrambles-part-deux
Bootin' up in the Rockies: Scrambles part 3
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/211467/Bootin-Up-in-The-Rocky-Rockies-Scrambles-Part-3
Rumble in the Rockies: Scrambles part 4
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/215824/Rumble-in-the-Rockies-Scrambles-Part-4
Prime Time in the Rockies": Scrambles part 5
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/226667/Prime-Time-in-the-Rockies-Scrambles-Part-5
Scrambling in these Rockiest of Rockies: Scrambles part 6
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/405181/Scrambling-in-Those-Rockiest-of-Rockies-Part-VI
Scrambles Amongst the Rockies: Kickin’ Rubble: Scrambles part 7
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=261341
trailridge127

Trad climber
Loveland, CO
May 19, 2018 - 01:55pm PT
Spearhead might be wet in early June, My favorite granite in the park. Sykes Sickle is a fantastic route. The barb being a close second
JLP

Social climber
The internet
May 19, 2018 - 02:48pm PT
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP19/mountain-profile-longs-diamond

I saw Briggs up there in his late 50's free climbing D1 - maybe his ~110th ascent of the wall or some-such craziness.
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
May 19, 2018 - 06:01pm PT
Lots of good advice here, although I think the OP has a little snail eye at this point (quite rational).
It is fashionable for strong climbers to pooh-pooh the Casual Route, and I see where they're coming from. Nevertheless, it was one of my best days in the mountains and climbing in general (car to car and to the summit and down cables route, none of the rapping stuff). To the average rec climber (yours truly), it's definitely bucket-list worthy.

I did it 10 years ago and it was over-crowded then, and I understand it's much worse now. As much as I hate to say it, perhaps a permit system should be be implemented.

Nearby: Directissima on Chasm View Wall is of comparable quality and difficulty (a little harder climbing, easier "other stuff").

Flying Buttress on Meeker is a step down in terms of commitment, but also a great day.

I'm a weather wimp so in general would much prefer to go in late July - August to June, but things change year to year. Super wet around here as I write this.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 19, 2018 - 07:12pm PT
Yeah, I wish I'd done Flying Buttress. There is another climb over on Mt. Meeker that I wanted to do, fairly eye-catching, called Main Vein.
Anybody have a report on that thing? I've heard stuff, but since forgotten details. Supposed to have a dicey section?

............................................................

Here's some flyby footage, good for the first 20 seconds.
It shows why The Diamond can be really wet early-season, just look at all of that acreage positioned above the wall which collects snow that has to run off:

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Also, on YouTube, didn't find much that I liked on the Casual Route, but here's a halfway decent short of Steph Davis Soloing Pervertical:

[Click to View YouTube Video]

And speaking of Pervertical, though I haven't done it: if a guy says, "I'm looking for things in the range of East Buttress of Middle, East Buttress of El Cap, North East Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock" ... though it might dry out sooner than the Casual Route, I won't be sending him up Pervertical Sanctuary as an idea of a comparable route to those Valley climbs. (But it is one I've always wanted to do!) BITD people used to call it 10+, it's now listed as 11-, at least for one pitch.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 19, 2018 - 07:14pm PT
Roger Briggs is Mr. Diamond, among many other things as a climber. Of course his Alpinist article, linked just above by JLP, is an excellent read!
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP19/mountain-profile-longs-diamond/8

My own reflections on the Roger Briggs/Alpinist article below, mostly peppered with anecdotes about the various protagonists of Diamond climbing whom he references. There was a good film short produced about 10 or 15 years ago, chronicling a period where Briggs spent a lot of time up there working on routes. I think it's in that short where there is mention that he likes reading tarot cards. Doesn't seem to be available on YouTube.

He'd always been one of the climbers I looked up to, since first seeing that picture of him at Castle Rock in Godfrey and Chelton's CLIMB! When we were in our young teens, we wanted to cultivate super defined calf muscles just like Roger Briggs. I only met Briggs once, at an AAC dinner that Chouinard spoke at a few years ago. Sat right next to Roger, and was surprised to find that he was just a tad on the prickly side. Straight up asked me to justify my presence, as a climber in general, and why I should be invited to such an esteemed soirée! What a hard-ass, I thought. Perhaps if I'd just said that, he'd have warmed up to some conversation. I'm thinking his interpersonal style is what some might neutrally characterize as that of a straight shooter. I was actually excited to meet him. At least there was plenty of Silver Oak Cabernet to quaff, and Briggs just looked down his nose at me as I sipped my wine. Ha! What are you going to do? Probably my own fault. Chouinard presented well that night.

I'm acquainted with Eric Doub, of the Doub-Griffith, an elegant 5.11 next to Super Slab in Eldorado Canyon. I spoke with him briefly during his stint working things on The Diamond with Briggs. Eric is sturdily built, with a firm jaw line and a square chin, but with soft eyes and an introspective, intellectual bearing. As to Bob Kamps and Dave Rearick doing the FA of The Diamond, it's easy to forget that Rearick was originally a Californian, so storied is his history as a Colorado climber. Also, that Briggs is only four years younger than Pat Ament: this is surprising to ponder. I was also unaware that he apprenticed under Ament. Some of us last a lot longer at the vanguard of the sport. Even in the 90s I was surprised to see Briggs at the climbing gym. Clearly, he still had it! Good for him. Then I read about The Joker and other exploits on The Diamond. It's a good bet he still has it.

Wayne Goss, who I have climbed with some, and know fairly well, has held up really well and is a very polite, considerate, friendly human being. Billy Westbay was one of the best. Cancer is a bitch. Climbed Black Walk in Eldorado with Jim Logan in 1990. He's a kick! Identifies (sometimes?) as a woman now, and I think he goes by Jamie. He was at the same AAC function where I had dinner with Briggs, and while the rest of us were wearing suits and ties, as required, Logan, who came up to me wearing an open fuchsia colored shirt and lipstick, the first thing he said was: "I did The Emperor Face of Mount Robson with Mugs, I don't need no stinking coat and tie!" Okay, he didn't say stinking, I just put that in for effect. The few times I've run into Logan, it sounds as though he's still hitting it. 'Love hearing that from people!

So in the article, dating back to 2007, Tommy Caldwell is listed as the youngest climber to do The Diamond, at 12 years of age. According to hackey47, we can now update that to Stella Noble, aged 9!

Duncan Ferguson I'm only acquainted with, but know through his good friends that he's a class act. I once spotted Chris Reveley trail running in RMNP during the mid-90s. I always imagined him to be a bad ass climber, and pretty much heard as such. He freed some OW on The Obelisk with my late friend Bill Roos. Billy said it was an impressive display on Reveley's part: too bad Roos isn't here to straighten me out on the details, something about poor anchors and no gear.

Only now do I recognize that Tobin Sorensen along with Bruce Adams, who sometimes posts here in the forum, free climbed Pervertical. Of course I knew that Bachar and Westbay had free climbed D1. Didn't know that Briggs and Carrigan had freed Directagonal-Yellow Wall linkup together on The Diamond; but they did so in 1980, the same year I had the good fortune of climbing Hot Line with Carrigan. That guy was a world-beating powerhouse. Though in that year, he was still focused on trad climbing, prior to his leading position as a sport climber in the mid-80s. He'd also done an early ascent of the PO Wall. That Kim Carrigan character is versatile, superstrong and sharp as a tack.

Then, from 1985s King of Swords with Dan Stone, the narrative really heats up, because we begin to realize this is when Briggs begins to own The Diamond! Too bad about Goukas: I'd met him briefly when he visited California, both in Joshua Tree and Yosemite. He had huge lats and wore a pair of fairly menacing looking beatnik era sunglasses, liked to smoke dope, and really played up the part of being a climber in a very sincere and endearing way.

Chip Chace, with whom Briggs first tried Eroica, likes scotch and movies. He was my Chinese doctor when the wheels first started coming off. One of the lines he bagged with his wife Monica that I've always coveted is called Ziji, something they did on Bridger Jack down in Indian Creek. The line features dark black Wingate patina, multi-pitch, with stunning sections of 5.12 fingers. He's also got a really good sense of humor.

I was hoping to hear more detail about Roger Briggs ascents of things like The Joker with Steve Levin, and some reportage of those years when he spent a ton of time up there at altitude by himself, receiving and hanging out with a rich variety of partners and working on freeing those 5.12 climbs. He talked about that in the film short I referenced above. It would be really cool to see Bernard Gillet's list of everything Briggs has done on that wall. Hope to find that video someday!

Go Briggs! You are the MAN!

.............................................

This is also tangentially related:
https://www.climbing.com/news/jim-logan-the-emperor-of-mount-robson/

https://estespark.pastperfectonline.com/byperson?keyword=Reveley%2C+Christopher
ABSTRACT: Dr. Chris Reveley is a luminary of the Colorado free climbing community. His interview includes myriad of names of the pioneers Colorado climbing. Chris' climbing career began in the early 1970s in Eldorado Canyon and Boulder Canyon when he attended the University of Colorado. Chris became part of the Estes Park climbing community and served as a Ranger in Rocky Mountain National Park prior to attending medical school. He is credited with multiple first assents in Rocky Mountain National Park and held the speed record for the round trip climb of Longs Peak at two hours and four and a half minutes in 1979, a record which stood for 31 years. This interview is insightful as Dr. Reveley shares the deep emotions of the climbing experience. His descriptions include the fear, exhaustion, exhilaration, sense of companionship, and creativity associated with his many climbing adventures. Dr. Reveley retired in Estes Park in 2009.

Here's a transcript of an oral history with Chris Reveley, likely the one referenced with an abstract just above.
This kind of stuff, to my mind, is truly priceless:
https://archive.org/stream/ChrisReveleyOhTranscript/chris%20reveley%20oh%20transcript_djvu.txt
john hansen

climber
May 19, 2018 - 07:35pm PT
Tarbuster, don't you mean Bob Kamps and Dave Rearick on the FA of the Diamond?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 19, 2018 - 07:37pm PT
Probably... Let me check and fix that straightaway. Thanks.
L

climber
Just livin' the dream on the California coast
May 19, 2018 - 07:41pm PT
...but here's a halfway decent short of Steph Davis Soloing Pervertical:

Beautiful video, Tar....and my hands are still sweating!
hacky47

Trad climber
goldhill
May 19, 2018 - 11:28pm PT
not according to me....page 159 of the Rossiter 17' RMNP guide...Fredrik Marmsater photo and caption gives Miss Noble her due...Alpinist got it wrong!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 20, 2018 - 06:39am PT
Did they get it wrong or was it just an earlier publication?
The Alpinist article, circa 2007, predates the publication of the more recent Rossiter guide/Fredrik Marmsater reference by 10 years.

Without access to dates of the ascents, I am wondering if Stella Noble climbed The Diamond after Tommy Caldwell, in the intervening years between the two publications.

So you, via Rossiter/Marmsater, have provided either an update, or perhaps a correction, and yes it is a fun fact, that a nine-year-old girl climbed the wall: thanks!
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
May 20, 2018 - 08:47am PT
I've been up the Diamond 10 times in 11 tries over the years. At the risk of repeating some hints, here are my thoughts.

 It's a long day at altitude. I recommend slogging up a couple of 14er's prior to acclimate and prepare. Doing a route or two on Spearhead is also an excellent way to warm up to a Diamond day.
 Overall IMO, Diamond in a day requires more effort than Hulk in a day. More hiking, higher altitude, more weather issues.
 Highly recommend NOT following another party up the North Chimney, many accidents have occurred here due to rockfall. Consider going up Fields chimney instead if there are crowds. Only a touch more effort and safer IMO.
 Strongly recommend week days only. It's gotten really busy up there and weekends can be a true alpine cluster.
 Consider Pervertical, Yellow Wall, D7 or Black Dagger instead of the Casual route, better climbs IMO and fewer people, but harder climbing.
 Make sure to start early and bring enough calories and clothing.
 In my experience, most routes will have wet sections until some time in July unless it's been a very dry winter.
 Taking 2 ropes makes rapping and/or bailing much more efficient, but obviously there is a weight penalty. Also consider going 'old school' over the top for the full experience.

Have fun!
spectreman

Trad climber
May 20, 2018 - 09:07am PT
listen to BrassNuts!

I've done the Diamond 14 times in about 20 tries. I'm 11/11 at the end of that run because I started watching the weather more closely. Do not go if there is monsoon moisture streaming into the Park. Go in high pressure with 20% or less chance of rain. I've only done the Diamond once in June, all other ascents being in July or August. Did the Casual Route that once in June and it was wet but doable.
Bring gear for Yellow Wall as a back up to Casual. Harder climbing, for sure, but you can always french free. The altitude always kicks my ass on the 5.10 and 5.11 pitches. It feels way harder than similarly rated pitches along the front range. I've done it several times with a single 70m rope then go over the top and down the N. Face to the Camel Slide, or once I went down Clark's Arrow route, really cool but longer day. Some of the coolest days I've ever done, summitting Longs after a Diamond Day.
Absolutely worth it though. Amazing just to be on that wall.
hacky47

Trad climber
goldhill
May 20, 2018 - 09:14am PT
alpinist 19 page 40... Tommy's article on The Honeymoon is over....he writes that he was 12 years old the first time he climbed the diamond with his dad....he does not write that he was the youngest..i would guess that he knows who Stella is...perhaps a local guides kid?...Alpinist has very good editors and thus errors are rare!
spectreman

Trad climber
May 20, 2018 - 09:20am PT
I was on the Diamond the day that Tommy red pointed the Honey Moon is Over. It was amazing to watch him climb those pitches. I've never seen a climber try that hard in my life. That guy knows how to dig deep.
hacky47

Trad climber
goldhill
May 20, 2018 - 09:30am PT
I believe Cameron Tague died in early july (the 4th perhaps)...slipped on snow near the start to D7 if i recall...belaying across broadway is a good idea when wet or snowy!

I think of Cameron when i think of the Diamond
JLP

Social climber
The internet
May 20, 2018 - 09:34am PT
http://www.dailycamera.com/ci_18898057

Tommy is old enough to be Stella's dad.

Cameron fell off the 4th class leading to Yellow Wall, trying to get a higher starting belay. Snow on Broadway was a secondary problem.
hacky47

Trad climber
goldhill
May 20, 2018 - 10:00am PT
Looks like Tommy was the youngest at the time... He's a humble guy
TFPU JLP
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 20, 2018 - 10:25am PT
Since we are covering logistics:

Addressing spectreman, Brass Nuts, and other hitters with multiple ascents in the half dozen to one dozen range or higher.
How many of those ascents involved rappelling in to Broadway from Chasm View?
steve shea

climber
May 20, 2018 - 11:43am PT
I've climbed starting in the late 60's into the mid 70's a few times(8) with the Chasm View and NC approaches. My favorite was always Overhang Dihedral. Four pitches, slabby to overhangs. It felt like we were climbing the whole wall. 5.9 maybe, been awhile.
hacky47

Trad climber
goldhill
May 20, 2018 - 12:53pm PT
It seems to me that there is a safe passage up the chimney... but get in
the wrong spot and it is very loose...after about 10 times up the chimney
(Spread over 25 years) I still had trouble finding the same way each time...

I rapped it once in the early 90’s... no clue what we were doing... Lots of rocks came down..
When were the ledges raps installed?
Crossing the chimney from the chasm raps is a good place to rope up.
Don Paul

Social climber
Denver CO
May 20, 2018 - 01:32pm PT
Haven't heard from LuckyJack in a while, not sure we're going to get a trip report out of this, lol.
spectreman

Trad climber
May 20, 2018 - 02:07pm PT
To address Roy's question. I've Rapped in from chasm view only one time out of 20 attempts. Sucks big time to do those raps. The N. Chimney is much easier, especially after you know the route.
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
May 21, 2018 - 12:15pm PT
Roy data; I've always done it in a day, going up either North or Fields Chimney, never done the Chasm View raps myself...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 21, 2018 - 12:41pm PT
Thanks, fellas. Anyone else have experience with the Chasm View to Broadway/rappel approach?

....................................................

Excerpts from the fun and informative write up on 9-year-old Stella Noble's August, 2011 ascent of The Diamond, just posted upthread by JLP:
She has followed her dad up Eldorado Canyon's The Naked Edge.

Forrest said he waited until the end of the climbing season on the Diamond, when Longs usually has the least amount of snow and ice melting off the top.

They started out for the climb at 4 a.m. [after a bivouac in the boulder field] and met five or six other parties rappelling in to get on the route that day.

Though the wall was wet, Stella's climbing was solid, he said, as was her attitude.

The weather held just long enough for the team of three to complete the climb and descend Longs' north face -- then the skies opened.

There's no official record of people who have climbed the Diamond. But the Nobles are pretty confident that Stella is the youngest because they received a phone call from the previous record holder. Tommy Caldwell, of Estes Park, called to congratulate her on the new record, saying he'd held it for 21 years.
http://www.dailycamera.com/ci_18898057

Photos from Daily Mail article published September 28, 2011:
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2042780/Stella-Noble-The-10-year-old-climbs-2-000ft-mountains-fun.html
In August most of the snow and ice is gone so there's less chance of ice or rock coming down on top of you ... It's a pretty amazing thing for a 10-year-old. She was actually nine at the time because her birthday was this month.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 21, 2018 - 01:24pm PT
And this is relevant, because Stella climbed the Naked Edge (one fall on the lower crux) when she was 8 years old!
Nice margin for 5.10a at 14K' !

[Click to View YouTube Video]
JLP

Social climber
The internet
May 21, 2018 - 02:49pm PT
While he looks like Dad of the Year - Robyn's drive and experience as a world champion has been passed on to a lot of kids through her camp ABC - Stella being yet another of many. At nearly the same moment in time, Brook, the same age, became the youngest to climb 5.14.
hacky47

Trad climber
goldhill
May 21, 2018 - 05:08pm PT
^^^^^^that is true..I climb with an 8 year old girl who climbs at ABC...she sent curving crack in boulder canyon easily...she has very good technique thanks to Robyn!
matlinb

Trad climber
Fort Collins, CO
May 21, 2018 - 07:41pm PT
The Diamond could have been climbed out of season yesterday, provided you were off the route by noon when the graupel and lighting started up. Two people skurried up Kieners and went over the top by 11 am.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 26, 2018 - 08:00am PT
Here you go, high mountain sports and history fans, transcript of an interview with Chris Reveley about the FA of the Casual Route:
Interviewer: So you mentioned the Casual Route, you got the first ascent on that which is probably one of the most sought after high alpine routes in the country, maybe even in the world. What was that like?

Chris Reveley: Duncan had been up there before, maybe more than once. And the climb starts off of Broadway with a couple of pitches of relatively easy stuff. Then there’s this sort of sea of gray rock out to the left, and his intention was to connect that little crack system which actually continues up D-l with those grand traverse dihedrals that come down over here. And that turned out to be the key to the whole thing. He had gone high, higher than we ended up going and had backed off of it, cause there wasn’t any protection out there. So the day we went up, he ever the optimist, he said, “Well I tried up high so why don’t you try traversing somewhere else.”

[laughter] One thing led to another and I got across the traverse with one lovely little nut as protection. That was the frightening part of the climb. Not technically hard of course, but basically it was a 300’ death fall if you came off. Of course after you get over there, then the climbing is classic and clean and gorgeous the rest of the way.

Interviewer: What time of the year was this?

Chris Reveley: It was, boy a good question, probably in July. One feature of that section of rock was that, of course nobody had climbed out there ever, so there were lots of wobbly little flakes and what not. I did the climb again a couple of years ago, Harry Kent and I went back and did the climb for the first time in 30 years, and it’s much cleaner. People have, the traverse is just boom, boom, boom. All the rocks there are solid. They’ve pounded lost arrow pitons to some of those things, so it’s quite well protected now and it was just a pleasure. I’d gone up there with a lot of trepidation, cause I remembered what it was like, and I didn’t want to go out there. I said, “Harry I have to lead this pitch.” It turns out to be quite pleasant now, whereas then it was not very pleasant.

Interviewer: You did the first assent of the Casual Route and then you’ve only done it one other time?

Chris Reveley: I think that’s right. Oh no, I take it back, I take it back. Chris Wood and I one day in 1985 when I was back in Colorado, ’86 back in Colorado after my first year of medical school, we got on our bikes in Boulder with all of our gear in packs, rode up to Longs Peak in the middle of the night, trotted in and climbed the Casual Route and rode back to Boulder. So that would have been ’86, so that was the first time since then that I’d [repeated the route].

Interviewer: Is that called the “Longs Peak triathlon?” [laughter] I think there’s like a record about that. Like there’s people that are l ik e setting time records, from Boulder. Were you guys the first ones to do that?

Chris Reveley: Probably, yeah, 21 hours I think round trip.

Interviewer: Twenty one hours round trip from Boulder.

Chris Reveley: It would make a great triathlon. You would have to swim across Chasm Lake.

Interviewer: There you go.

Chris Reveley: That would weed them out. [laughter]

Interviewer: So why did you call it the Casual Route?

Chris Reveley: We didn’t. We didn’t call it anything. The way it got that name was that a couple weeks later, three weeks later, four weeks later, Charlie Fowler, a very much up and coming and super talented climber from Boulder, went up and climbed it without a rope. I think that’s the story, yeah. He may have, somebody said that he had clipped into some piece of protection on Mouththat last pitch of that crux move. But anyway he climbed it without a rope and he trotted in there, did it, came back and was back by noon or something. I’m sure the story is better told in other places. And somebody said, “Well Charlie, what did you do today?” “I did the route that Reveley and Ferguson had done on the Diamond.” “Oh yeah, who did you do it with?” “I did it by myself.” “Did you have a rope?” “No.” “Oh, how was it?” He goes, “Eh, casual.” [laughter]

Interviewer: So that’s how it got the named, The Casual Route. So the Casual Route is one of the more, it’s probably the most well-known route on the Diamond.
https://archive.org/stream/ChrisReveleyOhTranscript/chris%20reveley%20oh%20transcript_djvu.txt
johntp

Trad climber
socal
May 26, 2018 - 10:50pm PT
^^ Cameron- got a story to go along with the photo?
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
May 27, 2018 - 05:03am PT
that looks a bit Alpine ;)
docsavage

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
May 27, 2018 - 08:05am PT
Chasm Lake ...

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 27, 2018 - 08:24am PT
That winter shot looks knarly.....you’ll avoid the crowds as well!
johntp

Trad climber
socal
May 27, 2018 - 03:56pm PT
That winter shot looks knarly.....you’ll avoid the crowds as well!

Bet it wasn't casual then...
radair

Social climber
North Conway, NH
Jun 4, 2018 - 02:29pm PT
You guys have it covered but thought I'd tell a little tale from the 1980s so you can laugh at a couple of naive easterners.

We lived a few feet above sea level in Maine and were pretty well versed with alpine rock thanks to Mt. Katahdin and NH's Cannon Cliff. We were both pretty solid on 5.11 and had a grand plan of camping for most of a week and knock off a half dozen routes on the Diamond. We "acclimated" by climbing J Crack at Lumpy Ridge with the sweet 5.11 finger crack finish, then headed right up the notorious North Chimney to Broadway. Things went a little downhill from there.

We woke in the middle of the night to a raging snowstorm and when we got up in the morning the cliff was plastered in ice. But the sun was up so we figured we would let it bake off and start the following day, after all we had a week's worth of food. We were amazed to see not one but two parties come up the lower wall, give us an odd look and keep right on going up the Diamond. One guy said "you may be warm and happy now but this place will feel like death bivouac at noon". Indeed the wall shed ice for most of the day and we were cold & bored with raging altitude headaches and minimal water.

The following morning came and we reduced our plan to the Casual Route, which was outstanding. Not to be taken lightly, even the 5.8 dihedral felt like sustained climbing move after move. We managed to top out, tag the summit and followed the slabs down to Chasm View, where we rapped back to Broadway (still with the raging headaches). We immediately decided to get out of there NOW. So we packed our sh#t, rapped down the scary North Chimney and did a death march out to the car, arriving late at night.

The next day, tails between our legs, we headed down to the warmth of Buffalo Creek/South Platte and climbed Cynical Pinnacle.
spectreman

Trad climber
Jun 4, 2018 - 02:56pm PT
Great story Radair!!
Mad69Dog

Ice climber
Jun 4, 2018 - 03:15pm PT
"it’s just the hard climbing I’m afraid of, haha"

All of the harder moves have great pro. IIRC, the 10a move has a great ~finger size placement at your waist. The 5.7 traverse is slightly runout, but as long as it's not icy, no big deal.

I'd second the advice to go down to the N Face raps and go down the Camel.

No need to rap the N Chimney these days. Bomber bolted stations a bit to the S.

"I believe Cameron Tague died in early july (the 4th perhaps)...slipped on snow near the start to D7 if i recall...belaying across broadway is a good idea when wet or snowy!"

Yes, he fell down Field's Chimney. I was up there to do D7 with Eric Coomer shortly after. I soloed up to Broadway with our food and gear and spent the night as Eric planned to tag along with friends that were headed up the next day to do the Casual. They accidentally went up Fields instead of the North and got to witness the gruesome aftermath. Eric was a bit shook up by it as he was friends with Cameron.

"Anyone else have experience with the Chasm View to Broadway/rappel approach?"

I think the various modern guide books describe it fine. Last time I was there, the anchors were solid. You have some loose rock on the raps so you have to be careful to not kick on your partner. In early or icy season, the right side of the Diamond can drop large sheets of ice on the rap path. Voice of experience. The traverse of Broadway can be dicey if icy, so you may have to rope up.
AE

climber
Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2018 - 05:42pm PT
Cameron Tague was a strong experienced climber, and his death should remind anyone that the Diamond is not a rock climb at altitude; it is a hard alpine rock climb. The long approach is dangerous, via the North Chimney, longer but a tad safer via rappel from Chasm View. Broadway is okay past the N. Chimney, but late snow, or rain/hail/snow any time of year can make footing treacherous; watched a heavily loaded guy in Tevas slide about fifteen feet as he was moving down to the rappel, fortunately stopping before the big air. Did the last two pitches of Pervertical in a downpour with graupel, then went over the top in cold, wet, clear mists. Do not go expecting a sunny rock climb. You can get below freezing temps, after being drenched if your gear isn't up to task, and don't be ashamed of aiding or pulling on gear/ the rope if it means getting out of there expeditiously. Weather comes over the mountain with zero warning, and if it does, well, people have died from lightning running down crack systems there. It is a great experience, but be prepared, realistic in your alpine skill sets, and willing to retreat if needed. Most Diamond veterans have stories about such retreats that can be more engaging than the successes.
Mad69Dog

Ice climber
Jun 4, 2018 - 06:56pm PT
"people have died from lightning running down crack systems there"

Probably one of the most amazing moments I've witnessed in the mountains was watching a bolt travel down near D1 then funnel into the N Chimney, with "little" tendrils popping all over the place. It was one of those times when you feel very alive.

"longer but a tad safer via rappel from Chasm View"

I've only gone the CV route when soloing, so carrying and rapping with 2 ropes, rack, etc., colors my opinion as rapping solo with a bag is not a favorite past time of mine. But going thru CV allows a N Face descent back to your stash or bivy. It only sucks if you leave something at CV then have to bail on your route - due to the weather, that sh#t can happen.

"or you can avoid all of the lightning by climbing it in the winter"

And you get to avoid the crowds too! (and warmth, comfort, etc.)
arareko

Trad climber
Mendoza, Argentina
Jun 4, 2018 - 10:31pm PT
Aside from all the beta related to weather, be wary of other climbers getting up the North Chimney above (or even below) you, as those approach pitches can sometimes feel like more of the day's crux than the Diamond itself...

If you see people already heading up the chimney before you, and you feel like the safest thing would be to wait for them to finish (as there, almost inevitably, will be falling rocks), consider approaching Broadway via Crack of Delight (II 5.7, 4 pitches), which can easily be done in 3 rope-stretching pitches. It is a much safer approach if you prefer to be roped up on a clean crack system instead of soloing (or pitching out) a choss-filled gully with people above your head. And, if you're efficient enough, you can even pass a few slow parties while they fumble with all the NC shenanigans and get on the upper wall ahead of them...
Nick Danger

Ice climber
Arvada, CO
Jun 5, 2018 - 07:23am PT
What started as sound advice to someone who hasn't yet been there has evolved into quite the Diamond love-fest. Longs Peak in General and the Diamond face in particular are certainly worthy of all the love shown here. I have only been up it a few times but it has (A) kicked my ass every time due to the effort at altitude, (B) been an extraordinary experience every single time whether I succeeded or not, and (C) is one of the most astonishing places I have ever been. In my personal experience only the Black Canyon matches it as an overwhelming setting for an adventure.

For me the Diamond is mountaineering first, with all its attendant objective hazards, it just happens to be stellar rock climbing as well. For me all of the rock climbs I had done or tried on the Diamond were just the very best rock for climbing - totally different from Sierra Nevada granite as it is possible for granite can be different from itself. I would also like to add that my failures on the Diamond were every bit as exciting as my successes; nothing quite like being snowed off that thing in a summer blizzard (and it was a true blizzard). Also, as locals who have been up on Longs Peak in the off-season know, the wind up there can be truly epic, well in excess of 100 mph. As a youth I always wanted to do a winter ascent of the Diamond, but never got around to that.

Roy, you are quite the witness to climbing history out here in the west and chronicler of same par extrodinaire. I really appreciate what you bring to the table and always love your posts - thanks, my friend.


My two-cents worth for newbies to RNMP is to second the suggestions for Spearhead routes, especially the Barb and Sykes Sickle, just outstanding climbs with less commitment than the Diamond. The Petit Grepon and Halletts Peak provide outstanding alpine rock routes but certainly crowded during peak season. Stettners Ledges is a classic and historic moderate rock climb on the lower east face of Longs Peak that always satisfies.
Be safe out there people.
Cheers

D-Storm

climber
Carbondale, CO
Jun 5, 2018 - 08:14am PT
Great stories here. I relate to many of them. I took a 40-footer when I slipped on the Flakes Traverse when it was iced up (at age 15); the next year I was starting to lead the last pitch to Table Ledge under blue skies only to have a storm come over the wall and change the direction of the day in 10 minutes—lightning struck the top of the wall and we got a mild shock that felt like sticking a paperclip into an electrical outlet. I've also had those glorious summit days. And people are right that every trip up there is memorable and special as long as you make out in one piece. Seems like these days there are quite a few aspirants who don't take the Diamond as seriously as they should, dismissing it as only a long 5.8 with a spot of 5.10a—I've heard more than one story of a boyfriend dragging his gym-climbing girlfriend up there for her first multipitch, etc. Not a place to f*#k around.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jun 5, 2018 - 08:18am PT
Whoever said you can avoid lightning by going in winter might be in for an unpleasant surprise.

I was up there in February of '75 for one of the scariest storms in my life.
Don Paul

Social climber
Denver CO
Jun 10, 2018 - 08:50pm PT
I was just up at Chasm Lake today. Almost nobody there and perfect weather. One party did a pitch or two of D7 then backed off. There was another group on the Ships Prow buttress but nobody else climbing anything.




skywalker1

Trad climber
co
Jun 10, 2018 - 09:08pm PT
Its that perfect mid June weather window! Call in sick and get on it!

S....

VVVV Awesome!!! :-)
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Jun 10, 2018 - 09:14pm PT
Looks a few weeks out to me. Also, not sure where that Marmot pic is from, but it's nowhere near Chasm Lake.
docsavage

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jun 11, 2018 - 06:40am PT
No, that's a generic marmot pic ... maybe because I was too busy chasing off the one who ate my shoes some years ago to snap a picture of the fat bastard ... just thought a word to the wise was in order as far as stashing gear around Chasm Lake ...
spectreman

Trad climber
Jun 11, 2018 - 08:36am PT
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jun 11, 2018 - 10:16am PT
Obelisk FFA: Chris Reveley-Billy Roos, 1977

Almost 30 years ago now, Bill Roos first told me the story of his 1977 ascent of The Diamond's Obelisk with Chris Reveley, who managed the FFA. Billy died of renal cell carcinoma just a couple years ago, and not long before I had him tell me the story again, but I didn't take any notes and couldn't remember the salient features of the story, except that it involved some outlandish free climbing and some deep digging on the part of Reveley, and also some serious protection difficulties and struggles with a big off width crack. So I was quite pleased to find this oral history gem from Chris Reveley, recounted in great detail.

Chris Reveley:
And then, the first free ascent of the Obelisk, which was a transformative experience for me.

Interviewer:
How so?

Chris Reveley:
Well it’s the most scared I’ve ever been, except maybe on the south face of Aconcagua with Wayne Goss, later in life. George Hurley had done the first ascent. It’s a big white corner, so the Diamond comes across and then it goes into a big white, slightly overhanging inside corner. You can see it from 1-25 and it’s somewhat different rock than the rest of the Diamond. George Hurley and a friend had gone up and done the first ascent of it. It was odd that nobody had done that until then. It was kind of pretty late in the game. And they’d gone up there and somehow climbed this thing on aid. George would never divulge how much aid they used, [chuckles] He never mentioned the size of the cracks up there either, when I asked him if he thought it would be free climbable, all he said was, “Well, there’s some wide cracks up there.”

So I recruited another old acquaintance of mine from Eldorado Springs, a guy named Billy Roos. Cause I hadn’t seen Billy in a long time and we had some history and it was good to be up there with him. He was a guy with lots and lots of mountaineering experience, a good rock climber. I said, “Well I’ve got this thing I want to try and do on the Diamond, are you interested?” And he said, “Oh sure.” Without even asking me what it was. [chuckles] That was an epic day. We started off; I don’t remember whether we bivouacked or hiked in, I’m thinking we maybe hiked in. He could fill that in. You approach the base of the Obelisk across these rising set of ledges, not very hard, it’s like 5.6 or something to get right to the base. There are other more difficult approaches. So I was kind of leading out over this wet black stuff, the rock isn’t great. It’s right under the Window and climbs like that.

It was early enough in the season, so there were lots of big ice chunks lodged in these corners above us. I was, I don’t know, maybe 60’ from him and he’s on belay on this little spot on this tiny ledge. We are making our way to the base of the Obelisk, and all of a sudden we hear this kind or wrenching sound above us. And all I remember is him as saying “Hold.” So I held on and I looked over at him and this ice block had fallen out of the crack and I thought he was dead. I thought he was dead! [Chris Reveley speaking with great emotion.] But the ice block hit a ledge right above him and shattered into a million pieces. And I looked over and he was bathed in this light of a thousand chunks of ice. It just engulfed him. It was like the old transporter scenes in Star Trek where suddenly the sort of crinkly curtain falls around you and he just leaned down and he was just there to take the hit. I said, “Oh F*** here we go.”

And nothing. And I said, “You ok?” He goes, “yeah, fine.” Went on and did the climb, [laughter] So this day is full of moments like that. They are just burned in my memory. So we got over to the corner and I looked up at this thing and said, “God, no.” But Duncan had been up there and he came back to Kimoto’s house after this and I said, “What did you do today?” And he said, “Oh we went up,” I don’t know who he was with, but “Went up and took a look at the Obelisk.” I said, “Oh, what do you think?” He said, “Well, I think it’s important to leave something for the next generation.” I said, “Oh god.” But at that point I was just, when Duncan said something like that, I knew that it was serious business but I also knew that I had to go up there, [chuckles].

So we got over the base of the corner and I climbed up about 30’ and got a piece of gear in and down climbed that section and it’s just a big inside corner. It was just some sort of a little cam hexcentric underneath a little overlap. Didn’t look like it was worth anything at all, and I got down to a ledge and I looked at Roos_and I just thought, “Ok,” and I put my weight on this thing. If it pops out we’re done. I put my weight on it, more weight and it held. I said, “S***.” [laughter] Anyway, I went up and did the pitch which was probably the technical crux of the climb. It’s just grinding way, laybacking and I guess [people] subsequently have gone on the left wall and climbed a straight in crack that they claim is 5.11. A really classic just straight in hands route that peters out. Then they get back in the comer. I stayed right in the corner stemming out to the crack when I finally could, which was probably harder, or so they claim these days. And hanging on trying to put protection in.

And then we got up to the first belay where, I think it was first belay, where George Hurley had put in a bolt on his first ascent. Not only was it a bolt, it was a little quarter inch bolt with a Gerry death hanger on it. I don’t know if you know what those are, but it was a little tear shaped thing that; the physics of it are such that if you put weight on it, it preys the bolt out. [laughter] “Really, George?” So anyway, we had a good laugh about that. I really wasn’t laughing at that moment, because what was leaning out above me was a comer[?], in the main corner, and then stepped off from that was an off width crack that would prove to be sort of the, not the technical crux, but the psychological crux of the climb.

Another thing that just cracked me up, Bill Roos was a good rock climber but he knew his limits. So I finished that first pitch and I got up there and everything was in. I had the rope, I was anchored well. So he had watched me climb this pitch and he yelled up at me, he goes, “Those anchors any good?” I said, “Yeah, tie that rope off for a second.” “Ok” I thought he had to go to the bathroom or something. So I tied the rope off, [chuckling] I looked up and out of his pockets come two jumars already rigged with etriers, slaps them on and he’s coming up the rope. You know, this guy.

I needed to laugh and he made me laugh all day. [Again, speaking with emotion] That probably made the climb possible, cause when you’re so burdened down by fear and loathing of what’s above you, you really need a little relief. And I just laughed and he was the perfect partner. The next pitches went up the corner, of course we didn’t have camming devices of any kind, it was all nuts. Big nuts, little nuts, nuts, hexcentrics, and stoppers. The climb as I remember, or the crack on that second part as I remember the geometry, the crack comes in this way and then a crack comes out this way. And they kind of meet in these plains of rock and it was wet. And I kept putting in these nuts, end wise things that were just kind of swinging. It wasn’t great protection; I didn’t remember having a lot of confidence in anything I placed on that pitch getting up to the off width. So [when] I ultimately did get up there, it was a little wet in that crack.

So I was up there all splayed out, looking down this line of gear that, you know when you are nervous and you don’t know what to do, you kind of pull on the rope to make sure that it’s running ok. [chuckles] I’d pull on the rope and all of the nuts would swing like this, like the brooms in the Saucer’s Apprentice or something in the Disney animated film, [laughter] They all looked like they were about to fall out. I really didn’t have any confidence that the protection was good up to that point. So I was all spread out and at that point you have to make the move into the off width. I was really kind of paralyzed for a while. At that time we had no camming devices, so I had tube chocks. Did you ever see a tube chock? It’s basically a tube of metal about that big around and slightly beveled on the ends. They worked occasionally pretty well if you have an irregular crack. But that off width, that last hundred and so feet on the Obelisk is perfectly uniform. So I had a little bit of gear left. I had my three tube chocks over here and I knew I had nothing to protect the remainder of the climb with and it’s a long way. It starts out with very steep, I don’t think it’s quite overhanging and glassy. It’s very smooth on the inside and so you gotta get in and just use pure off width climbing technique. I was pretty good at that in those days, but I was terrified. Cause I had this idea in my mind that if I had fallen off it was going to be a 250’ fall and I was seeing the anchors ripped out where Billy was, and I remember just apologizing silently to him. Cause he may even have had a hip belay and that was going to cut him in half.

“Billy, I’m so sorry.” The other thing I did at that moment was to appeal to all the gods of climbing that I knew and every other god. I said, “Ok, try and breathe. What would Duncan Ferguson do here? What would Jim Erickson do here? What would Art Higby do here?” I went through all of them, “Erickson, Erickson, he would talk to himself, he always talked to himself when he was climbing. Ok, you’re ok. So, talk to yourself, it’s a off width, you’ve climbed that before, you know how to do this. What would Duncan do, well he would kind of do a sort of a yoga breathing and try and relax. Relax, ok, ok. What would Art Higby do? He would find a clever way to rest, that’s what he was really good at.” So I went through all this litany of people, my mentors really, and ultimately I don’t think any of that helped, [laughter].

So I finally said, “Well, I’ve done this before, probably climbed harder things, I can probably do this again.” It was so cool because there was this sort of cool breeze coming out of the crack; it’s like this look into a million years ago. It felt like the mountain had taken this air in three million years ago and it was breathing it out. I was anxious and sweating but I was getting bathed in this cool breeze. It was calming to the extent that I could be calmed at all at that moment. I was finally getting tired in this stemmed out position. I said, “Gotta do something here.” Again, the geometry of all that, I reached over and pulled sideways on the off width and stuck my left side in, stuck my knee in and it fit perfectly. My knee had tightened up and I could almost hang off of it. When I straightened up it could slide easily.

And that’s all I remember. At certain moments like that you don’t maybe form memories. I remember flopping on to the ledge at the top of that off width, looking at the rope running down through the crack. My tube chocks are clanging melodiously at my side. It reminded me of those bells the yaks wear in the Himalayas, [chuckles]. Maybe that was comforting too. I remember being so exhausted I couldn’t speak at the top and I knew I couldn’t speak because, Chip Salaun, who was a guy who hung out on Longs Peak at the time and did studies of the vegetation and the crack systems and what not. A lot of people knew who he was; he was an eccentric character, an endurance athlete, a climber. He would live up on those ledges at the top of the Diamond for weeks on end in this little hooch tarp. I was lying at the top of the crack and I looked up and Chip poked his head over the top and he said, “Did you do the Obelisk? Did you free climb it? Cause damn, I wanted to do that.” I couldn’t speak.

[This was a beautifully emotional and dramatic moment in the interview as Chris Reveley reflected upon the majesty of climbing]

Those kind of days, I think. In climbing when you are with the right person at this sweet spot, when everything works, there’s nothing like it. That’s why I went climbing.

 Chris Reveley's reportage on the FFA of the Obelisk, excerpted, cleaned up and reformatted from this interview transcript:
https://archive.org/stream/ChrisReveleyOhTranscript/chris%20reveley%20oh%20transcript_djvu.txt


BILL ROOS:



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