Flight of the Wood Nymphs


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Just livin' the dream on the California coast
May 14, 2018 - 08:01pm PT

If only the Warbler were here....oh, the howling and growling and gnashing of teeth we would hear! giggle-giggle

I've watched every video you posted here, Roy, and like MH2 said, it gives me a lot of hope.

Especially for Ladies Who Slay.

right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2018 - 08:04pm PT
I'm glad you are enjoying these videos as much as I am, Laura!
LT 11 in particular, produces high quality videography and I really like the narratives.


right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2018 - 08:25pm PT

Published by LT 11 on March 6, 2017

I can say that at 3:40, the Boulder problem Pinotage, 7B+, is named after a South African wine!
Pinotage /ˈpɪnətɑːʒ/ PIN-ə-tahzh[1] is a red wine grape that is South Africa's signature variety. It was bred there in 1925 as a cross between Pinot noir and Cinsaut (Cinsaut was known as "Hermitage" in South Africa at that time, hence the portmanteau name). It typically produces deep red varietal wines with smoky, bramble and earthy flavors, sometimes with notes of bananas and tropical fruit, but has been criticized for sometimes smelling of acetone.

And yes, I have tried the wine! But NOT the boulders ...

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, CO
May 15, 2018 - 02:25pm PT
What Would Warbler Do?

right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2018 - 04:32pm PT
I've been in touch with Warbler! Why, no doubt he'd go climbing. In fact that's just what he's doing ...

San Diego backcountry
San Diego backcountry
Credit: Kevin Worrall

Longest route in San Diego County.
Longest route in San Diego County.
Credit: Kevin Worrall

Kevin Worrall/Warbler said, regarding the picture just above:

"Working on an 8 pitch route. Rising traverse starts down around the toe of that buttress at the very lowest point of the crag, climbs up about 60’, then traverses these two parallel seams for another 100 ft before turning the corner to the wall in the photo, leading to 6 pitches up a natural line midway between the skyline and the brush. Finishes on a diorite buttress about a third of the way across the photo from left to right - pretty much the highest point on the Wall. All 5.9 and mid 5.10 pitches, killer rock. 60% gear protected. Longest route in SD County."

right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2018 - 04:35pm PT
A pair of 10+ minute film shorts by Andy Mann ...
Showing what happens when a boulderer, a sport climber, and some alpinists plan and execute a multidisciplinary trip to the Cordillera Blanca, Peru.

Published July 12, 2013

I've known Pete Takeda since he showed up in the Valley during the mid-80s. He got his nickname Big Wall Pete, from some early attempts at getting up on the walls. Abbey Smith was one of the itinerant locals on the climbing gym scene around Boulder when I was working it in 2004 as a rep for Evolv. If you've been following this thread, you already know plenty about Paige Claassen. Never met Mick Follari.

right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2018 - 06:06pm PT
Big Wall Pete Takeda in Hueco, on lead, 1990:

Big Wall Pete, Hueco, 1990
Big Wall Pete, Hueco, 1990
Credit: Tarbuster

Roy, Secret Sharer, Hueco, 1990
Roy, Secret Sharer, Hueco, 1990
Credit: Tarbuster

Roy, Hueco Roof, 1990
Roy, Hueco Roof, 1990
Credit: Tarbuster

Don't need a pad when you are this close to the ground!
Nevermind that we didn't have any ...

Roy, self-portrait, Hueco, 1990
Roy, self-portrait, Hueco, 1990
Credit: Tarbuster

Still no pad: better keep following crimping instructions on the package!

Tarbuster, Hueco, 1990
Tarbuster, Hueco, 1990
Credit: Russ Walling

right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2018 - 07:16pm PT
Evolv ad from 2004:

Credit: Druid Orion

Tarbuster/Roy, 2003-2005, 15 months, 4000 hours, 50,000 miles, 120+ Evolv rock shoe demos, 40 new accounts.
During this juggernaut tour, I met hundreds of young climbers!

Ben Lomand Climbing Center, SLC area, 4-1-2004
Ben Lomand Climbing Center, SLC area, 4-1-2004
Credit: Tarbuster

Western States College competition, 11-11-2004
Western States College competition, 11-11-2004
Credit: Tarbuster

Representing Evolv at Lumpy Ridge trail work project, Twin Owls, 2004:

Lumpy Ridge, Twin Owls trail work with Luke Evans
Lumpy Ridge, Twin Owls trail work with Luke Evans
Credit: Tarbuster

Lumpy Ridge,  Twin Owls trail work with Chad Eggan, 2004
Lumpy Ridge, Twin Owls trail work with Chad Eggan, 2004
Credit: Tarbuster

from out where the anecdotes roam
May 16, 2018 - 05:11am PT
a trail of breadcrumbs lead to this wonderful place
starting from a paige claasen reference to a friends photo style:



Trad climber
Colorado Springs, CO
May 16, 2018 - 06:21am PT
2004! Crazy. That was a year after I moved to Colorado with the Czech wife.

right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2018 - 07:27am PT
Of course Angie Payne was on the scene in 2004. In one of these comps, as I recall a PCA event at the Wasatch Front in SLC, I was watching Angie crush it. Her form is immaculate. I remarked to Chris Wall, one of the better educated and most effective of all of the climbing coaches, just how precise were the body control and footwork components she displayed and he said simply: Angie's got skills.

To say that Angie Payne's photography is remarkable is an understatement!
Again, here is a person whose application of mind and body trends well into the artistic.

As hooblie intimated, readers who love imagery of the natural world MUST SEE her photography.

Check her kinesthetic awareness, flow, physical economy, and foot placements beginning at 2:30.
Still the mind, still the body = flow state:

Published February 8, 2015

Angie in Greenland:

Published May 29, 2013

from out where the anecdotes roam
May 16, 2018 - 07:40am PT
thanks for helping out T, i was too dumbstruck to break out any suitably emphatic lingo

right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2018 - 08:10am PT
Love this guy, Chris Wall.

First met him in Boulder during the 90s, when he was pursuing his advanced degree in exercise physiology, then witnessed him putting it into action throughout 2004.
One of the most grounded, effective guys I met on my tour:


right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2018 - 11:12am PT
Flow Experience

During the middle to late Stonemaster era*, trad climbing was a phrase which hadn't yet come into use. As a group we were bouldering up to V6-V7 without pads, sometimes harder, pushing into 5.12 on lead under the artistic constraints of a risk-laden trad ethos, and top roping 12+.

The kind of movement skills and personal containment strategies demonstrated by Angie Payne and embraced by Chris Wall in the above videos were in full force. Of necessity, we engaged climbing in these ways, as an avenue to survival, though certainly not achieving Angie's level of difficulty. This was exemplified in the movement skills of John Bachar, Ed Barry, and Lynn Hill, and of course John Gill before us. In the late 70s and early 80s, Bachar would rehearse climbs on top rope, and then solo them, exemplified by Baby Apes, 5.12c, 1980.

John Bachar, Baby Apes
John Bachar, Baby Apes
Credit: John Bachar collection

Dale Bard, Stonemaster, Yosemite, 1970s
Dale Bard, Stonemaster, Yosemite, 1970s
Credit: John Bachar

Mike Paul, Pumping Monzonite
Mike Paul, Pumping Monzonite
Credit: Mike Paul collection

Wikipedia on FLOW:
Jeanne Nakamura and Csíkszentmihályi identify the following six factors as encompassing an experience of flow:[2]
1. Intense and focused concentration on the present moment
2. Merging of action and awareness
3. A loss of reflective self-consciousness
4. A sense of personal control or agency over the situation or activity
5. A distortion of temporal experience, one's subjective experience of time is altered
6. Experience of the activity as intrinsically rewarding, also referred to as autotelic experience

Those aspects can appear independently of each other, but only in combination do they constitute a so-called flow experience. Additionally, psychology writer Kendra Cherry has mentioned three other components that Csíkszentmihályi lists as being a part of the flow experience:[3]
1. "Immediate feedback"[3]
2. Feeling that you have the potential to succeed
3. Feeling so engrossed in the experience, that other needs become negligible


*While the original Stonemasters are known as Southern Californians John Long, Rick Accomazzo, Richard Harrison, Mike Graham, Robs Muir, Gibb Lewis, Bill Antel, Jim Hoagland, and Tobin Sorensen (as stated in the book by John Long and Dean Fidelman, The Stonemasters, California Rock Climbers in the 70s), the term has come to define a movement and an era, along with other protagonists who were already in situ in Yosemite. I've informally broken this era into three periods, early: 1972-1975, middle: 1976-1979, and late: 1980-1983. It really is bookended by the sport climbing competition, Sportroccia in Arco Italy, 1985.

There was a movement philosophy imbued in three climbers emblematic of the Stonemaster middle-late period. (Having started climbing in 1974 in Southern California, I've been well acquainted with these three climbers, two of whom are no longer with us.) The late John "Yabo" Yablonski spoke of achieving the realm of no-pump, (though his climbing style per se wasn't all that smooth), while the late John Bachar espoused, and along with Yosemite local Ron Kauk habitually demonstrated a style of climbing wherein the climber sought to weight each point of contact equally, avoiding over-gripping and achieving maximum economy and flow.




right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2018 - 05:35pm PT
Like everything from LT 11, this film short is uncommonly delicious.

Published by LT 11 on December 2, 2013

Excerpt from Paige Claassen's narration at the end of the video:
We all climb, travel or go on adventures because we get to meet people, see amazing places and learn the simple things about life along the way. We learn how other cultures value the things that make their country special. We learn how to eat soup with chopsticks. And we learn that we really aren't all that different after all. Each of us wants to challenge ourselves and support those around us: this is why we climb



Published by LT 11 on January 12, 2014

Reading entries on Paige Claassen's blog is like opening a box of chocolates: you'll want to sample all of them!
Here's a tasty treat:

The Rise and Fall of Confidence
Confidence is like a bonsai tree. It’s delicate branches take ages to grow, but when put in the wrong hands, those wisps of life won’t last long … I found myself in Yangshuo, China on some of the world’s steepest, most physical climbs with atrophied forearms and the core strength of a hippopotamus.

Paige on China Climb, 14b
Paige on China Climb, 14b
Credit: John Glassberg, LT 11


right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2018 - 11:12am PT
Lead Now Global Tour: India

published by LT 11, January 26, 2014
While in India, I’m climbing to raise money for Apne Aap, an Indian based organization working to end forced prostitution. In India, the average age for a girl to be sold into prostitution is 9-13, and she may spend 10 years working off her selling price without pay.

I wanted to climb some of the most obscure, beautiful sport lines in the world, in locations that would force me to learn about myself, about the world, and about the people in it. What better place than India?
Above excerpts from: http://paigeclaassen.com/ganesh-and-adventures-in-india/


Lead Now Global Tour: Turkey

published by LT 11 March 5, 2014
Did you know that women and girls make up 70% of the world’s 1 billion poorest people? Or that a child born to a literate mother is 50% more likely to survive past the age of 5? These are statistics from CARE, a Lead Now supported organization that helps the poorest communities in the world unleash their full potential.
Above excerpt from: http://paigeclaassen.com/turkey-time/

right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2018 - 11:16am PT
As I've been reposting links to charities suggested through Paige Claassen's blog and these LT 11 climbing videos,
Some may find this charity qualifying and ranking tool useful:

Charity Navigator

right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2018 - 07:18am PT
My Personal Interest in Sport Climbing and Climbing Competitions

Like most contributors to this forum, I'm what you might call a dyed in the wool trad climber. In 1978, I wrote a curriculum for Cal State LA, formalizing their fledgling guiding program so the insurance underwriters would allow me to head up their climbing courses. Most of my living from 1979 through 1989 came from guiding, both in Southern California and Yosemite.

In 1982, for $600 I led and all free, no-falls ascent of Astroman, with two Navy SEALs in tow, on jumars. I was the first Yosemite Mountaineering School guide to make guided ascents of El Capitan: first The Nose, in 1987, co-guided with Doug Nidever, our clients both esteemed Italian guides, and then the Salathe Wall, in 1988, as a team of two with my client, a wiry, keen and hyperactive guy from Delco electronics who speed-jumared radio towers in preparation for the route. In the scheme of things, the reader may find it surprising that it took that long for YMS to begin marshaling selected clients up El Capitan, but it's true.

Though we California climbers were late adopters (see: bolt wars), during 1988 and 1989 I had been involved in the establishment of sport routes in Joshua Tree such as: Satanic Mechanic and Tonic Boom. In Yosemite: Killer Pillar and Bucket Brigade. Around that time, Jim Bridwell approached Peter Mayfield with a collection of plastic holds from Europe and told him: "Peter, this is the future".

In spring of 1989 I decided to move out of guiding and began helping Peter with promotional events to secure funding for what would be the third climbing gym in the country at the time, City Rock, in Emeryville California (now Ironworks in Berkeley). Later that year, Peter introduced me to Jeff Lowe so that I could learn to run climbing competitions, which eventuated in my employ with Jeff. In summer of 1989 I worked for Jeff Lowe at the second US international competition at Snowbird resort in Utah.

I soon became an ex-patriot Californian, living in Colorado, where Jeff Lowe was based, generating a handful of competitions for J&J Low Sport Climbing Championships, culminating in the 1990 North Face Berkeley World Cup at Greek Theater.

Here's an entire thread which I put together chronicling that event:

Lynn Hill, 1990 World Cup,  Greek Theater, Berkeley California
Lynn Hill, 1990 World Cup, Greek Theater, Berkeley California
Credit: Photographer for Climbing, Rock & Ice, or Outside magazine

Touchstone acquired CityRock of Emeryville, which was one of the first indoor climbing gyms built in the country. Gym members could now enjoy the benefits of multiple locations; but with a population of over two million people in the greater Bay Area, there was still SO much room to grow!

Realizing that the East Bay market was underserved by CityRock’s moderate size, Touchstone embarked on an ambitious project to build a new gym that was nearly three times as large. Berkeley Ironworks was completed in the spring of 2000, adding a huge fitness area, a yoga studio, and indoor cycling room, revolutionizing the concept of what a climbing gym could be.

right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2018 - 07:18am PT
Repping for EVOLV.

The presentation of these 1989/1990 J&J Lowe SCC climbing competitions demanded hellacious hours from all involved, and the whole enterprise collapsed horribly after the 1990 Greek Theater World Cup, because the meager amount of money taken at the gate and the lack of enough highline sponsorship required Jeff Lowe to rely on North Face to pick up a huge amount of the tab, well beyond their financial commitment.

That was the death of climbing competitions in the US for quite some time. But throughout the 90s, the proliferation of climbing gyms began to set the stage for a more grassroots approach to the indoor competition business model. So in late 2003, when I had the opportunity to leverage my enthusiasm for climbing gyms and climbing competitions in support of a rock shoe company, I was pretty excited about it!

How excited? Just look at my self-imposed rock shoe demo promotional schedule, which took me to a number of climbing gyms throughout the Four Corners states:

Roy’s Evolv Demos (121 total)

October 2003 (3)
10/30 The Spot comp CO
10/31 Gym of the Rockies comp CO
Luke Evans gym (?) CO

November 2003 (12)
11/01 Rock'n & Jam'n comp CO
11/04 Gym of the Rockies demo CO
11/05 Boulder Rock Club demo CO
11/13 Rock'n & Jam'n demo CO
11/14 The Spot demo CO
11/15 Breckenridge Rec Center comp CO
11/19 Breckenridge Rec Center demo CO
11/28 Vail Athletic demo CO
11/29 Colorado Mountain College comp CO
12/25 Thrillseekers demo CO
12/21 Thrillseekers comp CO
12/22 Vail Athletic comp CO

December 2003 (5)
12/05 Paradise DCL comp CO
12/12 The Spot comp CO
12/16 Paradise demo CO
12/19 Red Mountain Rock Gym comp CO
12/27 Red Mountain Rock Gym demo CO

January 2004 (9)
01/02 Glenwood Community Center comp CO
01/06 Rockreation demo UT
01/07 The Quarry demo UT
01/08 Glenwood Community Center demo CO
01/10 Breckenridge Rec Center comp CO
01/12 The Front Gym demo UT
01/16 The Spot comp CO
01/23 Gym of the Rockies comp CO
*01/25 St. George Utah sales calls
01/30 OR Show demo UT

February 2004 (16)
02/01 OR Show demo UT
02/02 OR Show demo UT
02/06 Vail Athletic Club demo CO
02/07 Boulder Rock Club comp CO
02/08 Paradise Rock Gym demo CO
*02/09 Flagstaff Arizona sales calls
*02/11 Phoenix, Arizona sales calls
02/12 Red Mountain Rock Gym comp CO
02/13 Rock'n & Jam'n comp CO
02/16 Rock'n & Jam'n demo CO
02/17 Vertical Relief demo AZ
02/18 Solid Rock Gym demo AZ
02/19 Rocks and Ropes demo AZ
02/20 Stone Age Gym demo NM
02/21 Colorado Mountain College comp CO
02/25 Arizona on the Rocks gym demo AZ
02/26 Phoenix Rock Gym demo AZ
02/29 Thrillseekers Gym demo CO

March 2004 (8)
03/02 Colorado Springs Climbing Center demo CO
03/09 Rockreation demo UT
03/10 The Front Gym demo UT
*03/11 Ouray and Moab sales calls
03/13 Redbrick Aspen comp CO
03/14 Lakeshore Athletic Club demo CO
03/16 The Spot Gym comp CO
*03/19-03/21 Red Rocks Rendezvous for Asana NV
03/27 Gym of the Rockies comp CO
03/30 Horse Tooth Reservoir demo CO

April 2004 (10)
04/01 Ben Lomand Climbing Center demo UT
04/02 Stone Age Gym demo NM
04/04 Santa Fe Climbing Center demo NM
04/10 The Spot Gym comp CO
04/20 Vertical Relief comp AZ
04/23 Phoenix Bouldering Contest AZ
04/24 Phoenix Bouldering Contest AZ
04/25 The Peak (?) Evergreen comp CO (juggernaut 15 hour drive)
04/28 Horse Tooth Reservoir demo CO
04/30 Women's Wilderness Gear and Cheer demo CO

May 2004 (14)
05/05 The Spot Gym Lochbuie School demo CO
05/08 Moab Indian Creek demo UT
05/09 Moab Potash demo UT
05/11 Horse Tooth Reservoir demo CO
05/12 Outdoor Diva clinic CO
05/15 Stone Age Gym outdoor comp NM
05/16 Sport Climbing Center Colorado Springs comp CO
05/19 Boulder Theater Tim O'Neill demo CO
05/21 Los Alamos YMCA demo NM
05/22 Solid Rock Gym demo AZ
05/23 AZ On the Rocks demo AZ of
05/24 Rocks and Ropes demo AZ
05/25 Phoenix Rock Gym comp AZ
05/29 Outdoor Diva Flagstaff demo CO

June 2004 (1)
06/19 Rock'n & Jam'n II Jr. climbers program (JCP) CO

July 2004 (2)
07/17 Mountain Miser Morrison outdoor demo CO
07/31 Crested Butte Bouldering comp CO

August 2004 (4)
08/07 Red Mountain Rock Gym/Copper Mtn Village outdoor demo CO
08/12 OR show demo UT
08/13 OR show demo UT
*08/14 OR show UT
08/15 OR show demo UT

September 2004 (5)
09/12 Breckenridge Rec Center Red Cliff outdoor demo CO
*09/14 preview WWSRA show CO
09/17 HERA SLC demo UT
09/18 HERA SLC demo UT
09/24 The Spot Gym comp CO
09/25 Paradise Rock Gym demo CO

October 2004 (8)
10/02 Castlewood Canyon Adopt a Crag demo CO
10/07 Cherryvale Fire Department demo CO
10/09 The Spot Gym She Sends demo CO
10/16 Vertical Relief comp AZ
10/17 Mud and Flood Tres Piedras demo NM
10/26 Animas Rock Gym demo CO
10/28 Phoenix Rock Gym demo AZ
10/30 Phoenix Phlapper Fest comp AZ

November 2004 (14)
11/01 Sport Climbing Center JCP demo CO
11/04 Colorado College demo CO
11/05 Outward Bound demo CO
11/06 Laramie Community Center comp WY
11/11 Western State College comp CO
11/12 Breckenridge Rec Center comp CO
11/13 Vail Athletic Club comp CO
11/15 Vertical Relief comp AZ
11/16 Prescott YMCA comp AZ
11/17 Fort Collins High School team JCP CO
11/18 Inner Strength demo CO
11/19 Thrillseekers comp CO (drive all night through snowstorm)
11/20 Rock of Ages morning comp Grand Junction CO
11/29 Boulder Rock Club JCP demo CO

December 2004 (6)
12/03 Red Mountain Rock Gym comp CO
12/04 Gravity Gym comp WY
12/06 Gym of the Rockies JCP demo CO
12/08 Trail Ridge Outfitters demo CO
12/09 Paradise Gym DCL comp CO
12/17 Boulder Rock Club TDF Finals CO

January 2005 (2)
12/06 HRCA Highlands Ranch demo CO
12/07 Glenwood Springs Rec Center 2 comps CO
12/15 Paradise Rock Gym DCL comp***demo kit sell-off

 At that last DCL comp, all the parents and all the kids gave me a standing ovation.
Dingus Milktoast

Trad climber
Minister of Moderation, Fatcrackistan
May 20, 2018 - 08:48pm PT
Speaking of Wood Nymphs, it happened to me just the other day

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