Flight of the Wood Nymphs

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healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
May 10, 2018 - 05:34pm PT
And here I thought it was going to be about all the babes splitting as soon as the dirtbags showed up...
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
May 10, 2018 - 09:57pm PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2018 - 07:10am PT
Good call, hooblie!
That banana rack at 1:08 tells you all you need to know …

Drones sure have upticked the quality of these travel log climbing vids.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2018 - 07:10am PT
Joseph said:
here I thought it was going to be about all the babes splitting as soon as the dirtbags showed up
It is all about that!

But the power trio of Paige Claassen, Emily Harrington, and Margo Hayes are the Slaydies ...
And they are coming soon to an exotic sport crag near you, to crush the gnar and gobble up all the pimentos!

How can you not love this sense of humor!!!
“Climbing is becoming obsolete for men,” says Claassen. “I think it’s going to become a women’s-only sport.”
Excerpt from:
https://www.climbing.com/news/a-necessary-evolution-michaela-kiersch-and-paige-claassen-send-necessary-evil/


Yes! It's all about the Slaydies ...

[Click to View YouTube Video]


V10 & Highballs with Margo Hayes

[Click to View YouTube Video]


Margo Hayes – La Rambla 5.15a (first woman to climb the grade)

[Click to View YouTube Video]

[Click to View YouTube Video]


Tiny Holds and Tenacity – Paige & Emily

[Click to View YouTube Video]


Serious about Sarcasm – Paige Claassen

[Click to View YouTube Video]


Emily Harrington – first ice climbs

[Click to View YouTube Video]


Makalu – Emily Harrington and Adrian Ballinger

[Click to View YouTube Video]

http://paigeclaassen.com/blog/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emily_Harrington

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Margo_Hayes
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2018 - 07:10am PT
And a reprise of Joseph's statement:
here I thought it was going to be about all the babes splitting as soon as the dirtbags showed up

Here's the dirtbags those babes were fleeing! Ha!
More from Louder Than 11 ...

Matt Segal and Will Stanhope at their finest!!!

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Published by LT 11, January 22, 2018
http://www.lt11.com/
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2018 - 10:06am PT
Matt Segal

If you watch nothing else in this collection of videos, watch the first one, Albarracín, with Paige Claassen and Jon Glassberg, V10s And Highballs with Margo, and the most recent, Freedom of the Wheels, with Matt Segal and Will Stanhope.

I'm acquainted with just two of the climbers featured in these videos, Matt Segal and Paige Claassen, and fairly superficially with both of them. Between 2003 and 2005, for 15 months, I averaged nearly 2 visits per week to a number of climbing gyms spread across the Four Corner states. I met hundreds of climbers under the age of 20 years old and interacted with them all quite a lot. I witnessed a bunch of really exciting competitions; some of them packed with standing room only crowds, others with a sense of community and camaraderie, laughter, jubilation, and full on cut loose fun the likes of which I've rarely seen again. I bouldered with some of these climbers, once including an outing with a group of 20 teenagers and twentysomethings, all of us spreading through the boulder fields of Arizona at night by headlamp, spotting each other and tagging highball boulder problems just like I did with my crag mates back in the 70s. Though I know I inspired the climbers who were directly sponsored by the company I represented, Evolv, I'm quite sure that Matt and Paige and many of the other young climbers have little idea, to this day, how much they continue to inspire me.

If I were young and strong again, or just old and strong, there's no pair I can imagine having more fun with than Matt and Will. Matt was just 20 years old when I was on the scene. He was intense, focused, sometimes shy, and clearly very creative. One of the better competitions I saw took place at the Wasatch Front in Salt Lake City. That climbing gym had a powerful vibe: infusing all who came and went with a strong sense of purpose and an almost addictive esprit de corps. It had a beautiful indoor bouldering wall shaped like a long, curling wave, and a group of seriously dedicated, highly talented climbers swinging through the doors at all hours.

At this particular competition, Chris Sharma easily hiked the final problem for the win. I swear I watched him put his hand on an imperceptible hold, nothing more than an open palm on a vertical, rounded nothing, cling to it and move through to the top. There were other stars there, including a guy who "climbed" up north on makeshift training structures with his brother and was something of a self-styled, heavy metal rocker meets farmboy bad boy, with a broad red bandanna pulled down nearly over his eyes. But Matt was there, and if memory serves me, he was competing in a collared short sleeved shirt and a bow tie!

I love people that do high-end athletic and adventurous stuff and maintain a sense of humor. Who wears a bow tie to a climbing competition? When he failed on a problem, instead of smacking into the pads, snatching the air with his fists and turning away, he just laid down and stared at the ceiling, collecting himself for another go. He softened his eyes, wiggled his nose, looking like he was trying to summon his inner rodent! I don't recall what became of his attempt that night, but the whole effect was endearing and inspiring. And maybe my memory is just playing tricks on me about the bowtie. But I don't think so!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Matt_Segal
http://www.mattsegal.com/
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2018 - 10:06am PT
V10s & Highballs with Margo

Excerpt from her video:
I think it's important, at least for myself, to stay focused on why I love, why I climb, because it's what I love – and when I look at a route, you know, it doesn't matter what the grade is: if it's a beautiful line and you know, it excites you, then you should just go for it.

It sounds very cliché but honestly, having fun is the most important and I think at least in myself I always climb my best when I'm happy. Maybe I'm a little frustrated [when] I want to send a route or I want to make a move, but I think that's more just determination, but really when it comes down to it, my best days are when I'm happy and excited and enjoying the time with the people around me. So I just … Put yourself in the environment that you love and that makes you the most joyful and then I think that's where you can really excel and you can really learn from others.
Bingo! It doesn't matter how hard she climbs if she doesn't love it. Accomplishment for its own sake and comparative triumph over others are not the best drivers for artistic achievement and personal satisfaction. We are more enriched when our pursuits are driven by conviction, passion, a sense of belonging, and love.

For me I've had so many men and women which have really inspired me to train and to try harder and to go on trips, and you know, explore areas I haven't explored before. And in the future I'm hoping that I can be a role model for young girls like myself at this point, um, to keep climbing and to follow their passion no matter what it is, if it's ballet or if it's rockclimbing. I think it's important to have a role model. So, it'd be an honor at some point if people saw me how I see a lot of the women I've always looked up to.
She'll be all of that, and already is such a role model. Review the Slaydies vid and you'll note Emily Harrington, though nearly a decade her senior, somewhat tongue-in-cheek says she wants to grow up to be just like Margo. Even now, Margo may be a role model for young girls, but she's also an inspiration to all who love the sport, and particularly to those of us who've long passed through that portal of powerful, committed, and active engagement with fellow climbers and with the stone.

I'm working with Lynn Hill on a short piece to expose her perspective on gender issues in climbing. When comparing men and women in climbing Lynn suggested that women in general, whether at the high or low end of the pursuit, may in fact display a certain technical grace and fluidity that men aren't as easily disposed to commanding or demonstrating, which is more a subjective matter of style, as opposed to an objective standard that measures who can pull down harder or achieve the highest grades.

Certainly Lynn is correct in noting that attribute in women who climb well. Watching these women in the bouldering videos offered in this thread, I relate more to what they are doing than I do to what the men do on the stone. Why is this? Because the essence of climbing is technique, not power. Everybody needs power, the best need it to prevail in competitions and to establish the hardest routes. But when observing a climber, I can better empathize with the moves being portrayed by women and it's much more accessible for me to vicariously project myself into the theme of these climbs when I watch women performing, because the movement skills they are demonstrating are more likely to be pared down to the technique involved. Power just connects the dots, but technique arranges the possibility for success overall.

At the beginning, Margo says:
Over the past few years the gender gap has really narrowed and for the years coming I think that it's going to, there's going to be a big change and more women, more young girls are coming up in rockclimbing, so, watch out boys, ha ha!
Well, it's narrowing beyond that, because Margo and those like her inspire in a way that transcends gender.

In a Climbing magazine interview, Paige Claassen, jokingly: “Climbing is becoming obsolete for men,” says Claassen. “I think it’s going to become a women’s-only sport.”

The grain of truth in this bit of jovial brinksmanship from Paige: if you want to see how it's done, watch a woman do it. To climb like a girl is to climb with precision, efficiency, and economy. If you've got power to spare, then more power to you, as they say. You'll also notice in the Slaydies video, between the three women, the word fierce gets used a number of times when they are describing each other's personal strengths. That's not just some buzzword they are tossing about to build each other up. Watch Margo on La Rambla: every single move caught on video, every action she commits, is delivered with fierce urgency. She didn't become the first woman to achieve 15a without bucket loads of fierceness applied to her training, her desire, and her execution.

So yeah, not only is the gender gap closing, and though men may always, statistically speaking, have greater musculature and more androgens which suit them in taking the lead in comparative physical power, the sheer power of inspiration that women bring to all of us, may prove to be the most powerful influence overall.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Margo_Hayes
https://www.climbing.com/news/a-necessary-evolution-michaela-kiersch-and-paige-claassen-send-necessary-evil/
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
May 12, 2018 - 10:53am PT
On or off the rock, those particular nymphs would clearly still be way out of my league even if I was young and handsome again.
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
May 14, 2018 - 06:57am PT
This thread gives hope that young people may save the world. Not climbers, but other young people. The young climbers kind of give me an idea of how rad the non-climbers could be, though.


And I really really like how Matt and Will re-tool the Old School.




Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2018 - 07:55am PT
And I really really like how Matt and Will re-tool the Old School.
+1
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2018 - 07:55am PT
MH2 also said:
This thread gives hope that young people may save the world. Not climbers, but other young people. The young climbers kind of give me an idea of how rad the non-climbers could be, though.
True, climbers tend to spend the bulk of their time climbing, especially at the top end of the sport.

But the young climbers (and a few of the old dogs), in their spare time, are more proactive than you might imagine. And yes, climbers tend to focus on access, but the scope of their concern as expressed to government is not limited to access.

Climb the Hill 2018, in its third year, just took place between May 9-11, 2018.
https://www.climbthehill.org/toolkit/
Today the delegates met with representatives, senators and other government officials to discuss matters pertaining to the Recreation Not Red Tape Act, the Land and Water Conservation Fund (which expires this October), the Antiquities Act and energy development.
Above excerpt from Alpinist magazine
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web18s/newswire-climb-the-hill-2018-preview

Last year, 2017, the collaborative event grew to a veritable mob of over 50, including AAC and AF staff and board members, and such visible climbers as Alex Honnold, Libby Sauter, Kai Lightner, Sasha DiGiulian and Tommy Caldwell. This week at least 65 persons will take part, from May 9 to 11. This year’s crew of influential climbers includes repeaters such as Honnold, Sauter, Caldwell and DiGiulian, also Quinn Brett, Lynn Hill, Margo Hayes, Bethany Lebewitz, Mikhail Martin and Maricela Rosales. (See full list below.)
Above excerpt from Rock & Ice magazine
http://rockandice.com/climbing-news/alex-honnold-lynn-hill-and-more-descend-on-capitol-hill/

..............................................

Paige Claassen, professional climber,
Independent from self-referential concerns related to climbing access, leveraged her business and marketing degree to found SAEF: South Africa Education Fund.
We envision a community in which kids receive the education necessary to lift themselves and their families out of poverty.
Above excerpt from SA Education Fund home page:
http://www.saeducationfund.org/
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2018 - 08:52am PT
In 2013, prior to starting the South Africa Education Fund, Paige was involved with Marmot's Lead Now Tour.
Nonprofit fundraising was a component goal of the trip.

Paige Claassen:
Jon and I visited Wesley Memorial Primary School, a rural elementary school whose library is supported by Room to Read, our non-profit partner in South Africa. By releasing this video, and other content about our time in South Africa, we hope to raise $10,000 for Room to Read.
http://www.roomtoread.org/

Also, excellent footage of Paige on Rodan, 5.14a, and her FA of Digital Warfare, 5.14a:

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Published by LT 11, August 28, 2013.
http://www.lt11.com/



Paige wrote:

I built this mythical route up in my mind, which Andrew referred to as the Digital Warfare Project for the strain it puts on one’s ‘digits’ – 15 degrees overhung, smooth, orange and grey streaked sandstone with just enough shallow pockets and thin edges to go. Hard, just my style, perfect. Andrew generously passed this golden prize, the opportunity to make a first ascent of the world’s coolest route, off to a random girl from the States (a million thanks Andrew!).

Photos: Jon Glassberg LT11
http://paigeclaassen.com/digital-warfare/
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
May 14, 2018 - 09:28am PT
perhaps a connection/inspiration or legacy corporate imprint here? https://www.linkedin.com/in/eric-reynolds-3931a44

the marmot founders were my first yosemite ropemates, fellow students at uc santa cruz. eric sold in '87 (before paige's advent likely)
and went into environmental/third world aid stuff like currently in rwanda healthy energy type stuff like gasification (rocket stoves?)
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2018 - 09:48am PT
Yes, Hooblie: I'm well acquainted with Eric Reynolds, founder of Marmot!
Really good guy, and definitely involved in philanthropic concerns to do with Africa.

Though, perhaps a company legacy/imprint, Eric was long gone from Marmot by the time Lead Now was established. Paige Claassen was born in 1990.

Thread drift alert!

Wood Nymph admirers, Tarbuster and Eric Reynolds in the Adamants Range, Selkirk Mountains, Canada, 1999.
My 25th year of climbing, same year Paige Claassen started climbing, at 9 years old!











Fun tidbit: Eric, tongue-in-cheek, in Francophile style, liked to pronounce his company Mar-Moh.

Went back to the Selkirks with much of the same crew, and my wife Lisa, in 2000.
More pictures of those and other trips here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/196724/Scrambles-Amongst-The-Rockies
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2018 - 01:00pm PT
From fall of 2013:

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Published by LT 11, October 1, 2013.
http://www.lt11.com/

Paige Claassen:
While in Russia, we’re supporting Women’s World Banking, which helps low income women access financial services, including small business microloans so they can independently support their families. Due to NGO restrictions, Women’s World Banking is not currently active in Russia, however they are the only global network that focuses on women. Women’s World Banking has served over 19 million clients, and 73% of those are women who now benefit from insurance, savings, and small business loans.
http://paigeclaassen.com/video-womens-world-banking/
http://paigeclaassen.com/left-behind-in-the-russian-federation/
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
May 14, 2018 - 05:57pm PT
Excellent news. Tarbuster in the Adamants, climbers who love the places they climb and work to help keep them wonderful, and South Africa!!

When I read that Andrew had done a good thing for Paige, my mind went back to when Andy De Klerk was in Seattle (might still be for what I know). Different Andrew, though.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2018 - 07:12pm PT
Yes, she's referencing Andrew Pedley.
Here's your man, Andy de Klerk:

This is a darn good interview!
http://www.climbing.co.za/2017/02/andy-de-klerk-interview/

Now I'm going to have to get his book: Sharper Edges.
https://www.amazon.com/Sharper-Edges-Stories-Beyond-Places/dp/1919938486/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526350610&sr=8-1&keywords=Andy+de+Klerk++sharper+edges
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2018 - 07:19pm PT
Lead Now Global Tour: Italy

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Published by LT 11, November 5, 2013
http://www.lt11.com/

While in Italy, I’m supporting Save the Children, which helps children around the world access nutritious foods so they have the energy to study, play, and grow.
The event has ended, but the nonprofit is still in force:
https://www.savethechildren.org/

Paige crossed into Switzerland for an ascent of Mosaico (6a+/5.10b), a ten pitch route, summiting La Fiamma, the base reached via cable car:
I’m a sport climber. More specifically, I like climbing clean faces with thin crimps and delicate feet, preferably 10 degrees overhanging.
However, part of my goal in Italy was to gain experience on multi pitch and traditional routes, things I don’t make time for at home, thanks to tunnel vision for sport routes. While I love sport climbing and plan to continue pushing myself on difficult sport routes, I think it’s important to have an understanding and respect for all types of climbing.

I get a kick out of this quote!
I’ve learned a few important things from these experiences. Most obviously, I enjoyed setting up belay stations and placing cams more than I actually enjoyed the climbing.
Excerpts from:
http://paigeclaassen.com/the-acquired-taste-of-adventure-multi-pitch-climbing/


In the video, you'll see Paige making the second ascent of Art Attack, 5.14b. An actual slab!
The reason she says climbing it was a miracle, is because she had totally given up! Occasionally, we have to let go, in order to hold on!?

(Especially on 5.14 slabs, ha ha, something most of us know very little about ...)
Sometimes, miracles happen. Making the second ascent of Art Attack, an 8c (5.14b) granite slab in northern Italy’s Val Masino, was nothing short of a miracle. Since Simone Pedeferri established the route in 2004, Art Attack hasn’t seen a repeat, likely because not many people enjoy slab climbing.
Excerpt from: http://paigeclaassen.com/art-attack/
L

climber
Just livin' the dream on the California coast
May 14, 2018 - 08:01pm PT
#Slaydies

If only the Warbler were here....oh, the howling and growling and gnashing of teeth we would hear! giggle-giggle

I've watched every video you posted here, Roy, and like MH2 said, it gives me a lot of hope.




Especially for Ladies Who Slay.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2018 - 08:04pm PT
I'm glad you are enjoying these videos as much as I am, Laura!
LT 11 in particular, produces high quality videography and I really like the narratives.

http://www.lt11.com/
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