Flight of the Wood Nymphs

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Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Original Post - May 8, 2018 - 06:47am PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Published by LT 11, January 16, 2013
http://www.lt11.com/
http://paigeclaassen.com/flight-of-the-wood-nymphs/
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
May 8, 2018 - 08:34am PT
i'm so out of it, i don't know what to call that heel technique applied to the spot where a palm smear was iffy. hook doesn't seem right.

great production value, quite watchable. "there's castles here!" i gotta get young again
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 8, 2018 - 08:38am PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]
check out their YouTube page... Louder Than 11
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 8, 2018 - 08:52am PT
DETO
[Click to View YouTube Video]

and what came up next? FRANK!

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
May 8, 2018 - 09:24am PT

Creative, playful and cool by Paige and Jon... well done...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2018 - 09:28am PT
Hooblie said:
great production value, quite watchable. "there's castles here!" i gotta get young again

Exactly!

I first met Paige Claassen, now Paige Claassen-de Kock, when she was 14 years old.
At the time, in 2004, I was the Rocky Mountain Region sales representative for EVOLV. She was the star of a youth climbing competition league known as DCL.

I was acquainted with her parents. She was quiet, resolute, and focused. Though just a 14-year-old, I admired her qualities. Simply put, she's one of my heroes!
Check out her blog. Paige is quite a good writer and also shows an excellent eye when she picks up a camera:

http://paigeclaassen.com/blog/
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2018 - 09:33am PT
Another good one from Louder Than 11, featuring poignant interviews and a thorough, responsible treatment of access issues:

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Published by LT 11, October 15, 2012
http://www.lt11.com/
http://paigeclaassen.com/abyss-a-critique/
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2018 - 03:33pm PT
Oh yeah, and Paige is the founder of:

http://www.saeducationfund.org/
https://www.facebook.com/southernafricaeducationfund/
I started Southern Africa Education Fund because I firmly believe that education is the only path out of poverty. By making education more accessible and teaching kids and families that school is a safe and fun environment that provides long term value to an individual’s life, we can keep kids in school and encourage them to pursue further education and a life beyond manual labor. Currently, we provide a kindergarten and orphanage with 3 meals a day, school supplies, student fees, and facility renovations.
Excerpt above from Paige Claassen's interview w/Beth Rodden:
http://bethrodden.com/2017/04/paige-claassen-interview-thoughts-on-climbing-starting-a-non-profit-and-having-a-family/
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2018 - 05:46pm PT
Frank and the Tower: A Duct Tape Then Beer Semi-Rad Production. Ha!
... that's quite the human interest piece and Frank is quite the … climbing-calvinist!

A reformist/convert of a different stripe, he says:
I'm surely under the influence of The Tower.

 And he plays Vince Guaraldi's Peanuts: love it!
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
May 9, 2018 - 03:37am PT
well i'm late to the party.

i haven't been a proper consumer, yet the production has been movin' on.

a little catch up is in order because, frankly, the expression of what the sport is,
where details of compulsion have been laid out in heartfelt effort to connect,
are right here to be harvested with a click.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

man do i hate to be personally held accountable for my joy,
but do i ever appreciate the kids who aren't so constrained and
use all the tools to make the case.

i'm spellbound by anatomy when it is animated by will.
how it fits like a key to the lock, applied to the physical, tactile world
and from it comes a passage which splits time but lights up the moment,
then disappears into ether but for the memory of it.

excuse my use of the word watchable. these efforts are much more than that
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
May 9, 2018 - 06:31am PT
The Wood Nymphs video shows some 6As! That was great!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2018 - 11:54am PT
Sacred Lands – A story of Bouldering in Indian Creek

I wonder how well these younger climbers appreciate the degree to which we value their performances?
You said it here, hooblie:

man do i hate to be personally held accountable for my joy,
but do i ever appreciate the kids who aren't so constrained and
use all the tools to make the case.

Fourteen years ago, as a climber just barely clinging to the game, I was running on fumes. I had just brought a bunch of shoes up to the base of one of the cliffs at Indian Creek for Evolv, in support of an event called Chicks on Cracks. Lisa Hathaway was one of the reigning divas that day. After the event, ready for one of many grueling road-weary pushes to another rock shoe demo, I pulled around the corner at Big Bend on the Colorado River. Lisa appeared from behind a very large boulder, stepped out into the roadway, made a welcoming arc with her slender arm, and in a gesture of fait accompli – she flagged me down. I came up alongside her, rolled down the window and she said: "Pull it over Roy: time to boulder."

She's got to be one of the finer human beings out there in the climbing world, doing really neat stuff for herself and others. Lisa reminds me of Mari Gingery from the Stonemaster era, late 70s. Strong fingers, superb body control, keen mind, very analytical and full of life. One after the other, she gave me beta on a slew of really fun problems. I'm guessing nothing harder than V3-4, but wow, it was like I was her marionette. No way was I getting up any of that stuff without her diligent and thoughtful tutelage. The representative for Five Ten, a much younger guy, was also along for the ride. I've enjoyed only a handful (okay, make that two handfuls) of good bouldering sessions in the last couple decades, and that was just stellar! She finished up by demonstrating this really cool double overhanging arete. I didn't even bother trying: why make a mess of such a wonderful offering on her part, both in the coaching and in her capstone performance? Thanks Lisa!

http://rockandice.com/people/lisa-hathaway-ive-learned/

https://www.facebook.com/Chicks-On-Cracks-157345227626947/
L

climber
A place with cats...lots and lots of cats
May 9, 2018 - 04:23pm PT
What a totally enjoyable thread, Tarbusterbaby!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2018 - 05:38pm PT
Park Life – Yosemite Bouldering

Lots to like in that video!

Hooblie said it:

a little catch up is in order because, frankly, the expression of what the sport is,
where details of compulsion have been laid out in heartfelt effort to connect,
are right here to be harvested with a click.

Though it didn't tag quite the same narrative sweet spot as did Flight of the Wood Nymphs, it sure was a wonderful tour of Valley bouldering. We all bouldered a lot BITD, and put an awful lot into it, but you look at the stuff these last few generations of climbers are clinging to: forget about it!

And we see candid interviews, fleshing out where these climbers are coming from, and where they think they might be going: that was good stuff. A lot of them struggle with all the issues we did in our own time: am I "all in" or do I try to retain some semblance of attachment to society?

The guys are just absolute beasts. I thought maybe I could relate to Natasha Barnes and the kind of things she was going for, but when I witnessed her finger power? No way was I ever touching that stuff, even in my prime. Then I remembered that she was a hitter at the competitions back in the 2000s.

Watch Natasha crimping her way up the V8 Bruce Lee at 3:20. She's got skills!
And she also wants to have a life: you go, girl!

Heart of Darkness, V9 at 4:15, looks so, so good.

Same guy, Ryan Sylvan on the highball Flatline, V8, at 6:55, now that's good living!

And then Jon Glassberg on the V12 Yabo Roof at 18 minutes: I bouldered a lot with Yabo BITD, and he might have started working on that problem, thus the namesake, but I don't think he was ever quite powerful enough to top out!

Same goes for the Cilley problem, V10, Dick was a damn good boulderer, but that thing looks sick.
Leroy: you out there? That really your baby?

And that V12 problem Dogwood, right at the end: now that is one beautiful line.


LT 11: you guys rock!!!

https://natashabarnesclimbing.com/about-2/
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2018 - 05:39pm PT
Albarracín – Flight of the Wood Nymphs

hooblie said:

i'm spellbound by anatomy when it is animated by will.
how it fits like a key to the lock, applied to the physical, tactile world
and from it comes a passage which splits time but lights up the moment,
then disappears into ether but for the memory of it.

What is most enriching to me is the opportunity to witness how well these climbers, most of them in their early 20s back in the early 2010s when the films were produced, adapt themselves to the rock architecture in a way that is so perfectly attuned to the task. I can empathize with the love of their endeavors.

Watch the first video once more, from Albarracín: go to 8:00, LaFuente, 7C. You can see in Paige's movements a discrete syntax, the way she fits her body to the stone as if composing a piece of music or constructing a mosaic out of multicolored shards of tile. And her prose and photography are similarly well organized: clear, fluid, and a joy to comprehend. These young people apply themselves to their task with mastery and in this complex, difficult world, the simple act of bouldering embodies all the importance of purpose and meaning. Well, for me, it does – and I'm sure it's the same for most of you readers.

An educated, quieted, and ordered mind is something human beings cultivate to more fruitfully interact with their world. And when done right, when a life is lived wholeheartedly, it's nice to see when it spreads into the whole of one's being.

Check out Paige's short piece on getting her act wrapped around bouldering, and tell me if it doesn't reflect the self-same movement skills we see in the video:

http://paigeclaassen.com/the-epiphany/

Then look at her photographs and you'll find the same constitutional and compositional harmony:

http://paigeclaassen.com/switzerland-in-photos/
http://paigeclaassen.com/namibias-skeleton-coast/

The music selections for the Albarracín piece are absolutely pristine.
They convey the European culture, the cool chill of the forest, and the delicate application of mind and body.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

[Click to View YouTube Video]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albarrac%C3%ADn
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2018 - 05:39pm PT
Deciding Boulder Comps – the Art of Akiyo Noguchi

Spatial awareness, problem solving, movement skills, physical preparation.

Hard bouldering, whether indoor or out, may be of more interest to many of us old retro-grouch trad climbers than we might assume.

Case in point: I got this YouTube from Stevie Haston's Facebook page. Stevie belongs to the blood lineage of celebrated alpinist Dougal Haston, has climbed many of the iconic North Faces of the Alps in record time for his day (and solo), and has done plenty of hard trad routes, as well as sport climbs. He and I are about the same age. Needless to say, he's graced with better genetics and is still hard at it!

Check out the wonderment of Akiyo Noguchi’s fitness and movement skills:

[Click to View YouTube Video]

From John Burgman, to whom I've been feeding a ton of source material for a book he is writing about the history of competition climbing in the US:
(I was involved in the implementation of both Snowbird '89 & the Berkeley Greek Theater World Cup of '90, among other early US competitions)

This video of Akiyo--it was done by Udo Neumann, a German guru who has coached the German bouldering team in the past, but he was also one of the big names in Fountainebleau in the 1980s. Most notably, Udo was the was co-author (with Dale Goddard) of a book called Performance Rock Climbing way back in 1993...pretty much the first book to present climbing entirely as a sport --with all sorts of chapters about physiology, diet, etc.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Akiyo_Noguchi
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
May 9, 2018 - 06:06pm PT
ALL the elements of aspiration, beauty, commitment, cunning, deliverance and, to put a point on it, ardent pursuit of the cosmic shrug ... are right there for the grasping in boulder world
jbaker

Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
May 9, 2018 - 06:27pm PT
This is a beautiful thread. Reminds me of what is most beautiful about climbing and just being out in the mountains.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
May 10, 2018 - 07:49am PT
Hmm.. maybe I'm just jaded from growing up around too many LA film students trying to be "artsy"... or maybe I'm sick of bouldering videos? Guess I'm a minority on this one.

Devils towers vids are pretty cool though.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2018 - 05:18pm PT
Oh, so that's how it's going to be – playing tough with me, huh, Skippy?
Back 'atcha with my all-time favorite boytoy-retro-chic-antihero ad!


From ROCK & ICE, #152, July 2006
And I'll have you know this is filed on my hard drive in a folder called: ART!
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
May 10, 2018 - 05:34pm PT
And here I thought it was going to be about all the babes splitting as soon as the dirtbags showed up...
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
May 10, 2018 - 09:57pm PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2018 - 07:10am PT
Good call, hooblie!
That banana rack at 1:08 tells you all you need to know …

Drones sure have upticked the quality of these travel log climbing vids.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2018 - 07:10am PT
Joseph said:
here I thought it was going to be about all the babes splitting as soon as the dirtbags showed up
It is all about that!

But the power trio of Paige Claassen, Emily Harrington, and Margo Hayes are the Slaydies ...
And they are coming soon to an exotic sport crag near you, to crush the gnar and gobble up all the pimentos!

How can you not love this sense of humor!!!
“Climbing is becoming obsolete for men,” says Claassen. “I think it’s going to become a women’s-only sport.”
Excerpt from:
https://www.climbing.com/news/a-necessary-evolution-michaela-kiersch-and-paige-claassen-send-necessary-evil/


Yes! It's all about the Slaydies ...

[Click to View YouTube Video]


V10 & Highballs with Margo Hayes

[Click to View YouTube Video]


Margo Hayes – La Rambla 5.15a (first woman to climb the grade)

[Click to View YouTube Video]

[Click to View YouTube Video]


Tiny Holds and Tenacity – Paige & Emily

[Click to View YouTube Video]


Serious about Sarcasm – Paige Claassen

[Click to View YouTube Video]


Emily Harrington – first ice climbs

[Click to View YouTube Video]


Makalu – Emily Harrington and Adrian Ballinger

[Click to View YouTube Video]

http://paigeclaassen.com/blog/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emily_Harrington

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Margo_Hayes
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2018 - 07:10am PT
And a reprise of Joseph's statement:
here I thought it was going to be about all the babes splitting as soon as the dirtbags showed up

Here's the dirtbags those babes were fleeing! Ha!
More from Louder Than 11 ...

Matt Segal and Will Stanhope at their finest!!!

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Published by LT 11, January 22, 2018
http://www.lt11.com/
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2018 - 10:06am PT
Matt Segal

If you watch nothing else in this collection of videos, watch the first one, Albarracín, with Paige Claassen and Jon Glassberg, V10s And Highballs with Margo, and the most recent, Freedom of the Wheels, with Matt Segal and Will Stanhope.

I'm acquainted with just two of the climbers featured in these videos, Matt Segal and Paige Claassen, and fairly superficially with both of them. Between 2003 and 2005, for 15 months, I averaged nearly 2 visits per week to a number of climbing gyms spread across the Four Corner states. I met hundreds of climbers under the age of 20 years old and interacted with them all quite a lot. I witnessed a bunch of really exciting competitions; some of them packed with standing room only crowds, others with a sense of community and camaraderie, laughter, jubilation, and full on cut loose fun the likes of which I've rarely seen again. I bouldered with some of these climbers, once including an outing with a group of 20 teenagers and twentysomethings, all of us spreading through the boulder fields of Arizona at night by headlamp, spotting each other and tagging highball boulder problems just like I did with my crag mates back in the 70s. Though I know I inspired the climbers who were directly sponsored by the company I represented, Evolv, I'm quite sure that Matt and Paige and many of the other young climbers have little idea, to this day, how much they continue to inspire me.

If I were young and strong again, or just old and strong, there's no pair I can imagine having more fun with than Matt and Will. Matt was just 20 years old when I was on the scene. He was intense, focused, sometimes shy, and clearly very creative. One of the better competitions I saw took place at the Wasatch Front in Salt Lake City. That climbing gym had a powerful vibe: infusing all who came and went with a strong sense of purpose and an almost addictive esprit de corps. It had a beautiful indoor bouldering wall shaped like a long, curling wave, and a group of seriously dedicated, highly talented climbers swinging through the doors at all hours.

At this particular competition, Chris Sharma easily hiked the final problem for the win. I swear I watched him put his hand on an imperceptible hold, nothing more than an open palm on a vertical, rounded nothing, cling to it and move through to the top. There were other stars there, including a guy who "climbed" up north on makeshift training structures with his brother and was something of a self-styled, heavy metal rocker meets farmboy bad boy, with a broad red bandanna pulled down nearly over his eyes. But Matt was there, and if memory serves me, he was competing in a collared short sleeved shirt and a bow tie!

I love people that do high-end athletic and adventurous stuff and maintain a sense of humor. Who wears a bow tie to a climbing competition? When he failed on a problem, instead of smacking into the pads, snatching the air with his fists and turning away, he just laid down and stared at the ceiling, collecting himself for another go. He softened his eyes, wiggled his nose, looking like he was trying to summon his inner rodent! I don't recall what became of his attempt that night, but the whole effect was endearing and inspiring. And maybe my memory is just playing tricks on me about the bowtie. But I don't think so!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Matt_Segal
http://www.mattsegal.com/
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2018 - 10:06am PT
V10s & Highballs with Margo

Excerpt from her video:
I think it's important, at least for myself, to stay focused on why I love, why I climb, because it's what I love – and when I look at a route, you know, it doesn't matter what the grade is: if it's a beautiful line and you know, it excites you, then you should just go for it.

It sounds very cliché but honestly, having fun is the most important and I think at least in myself I always climb my best when I'm happy. Maybe I'm a little frustrated [when] I want to send a route or I want to make a move, but I think that's more just determination, but really when it comes down to it, my best days are when I'm happy and excited and enjoying the time with the people around me. So I just … Put yourself in the environment that you love and that makes you the most joyful and then I think that's where you can really excel and you can really learn from others.
Bingo! It doesn't matter how hard she climbs if she doesn't love it. Accomplishment for its own sake and comparative triumph over others are not the best drivers for artistic achievement and personal satisfaction. We are more enriched when our pursuits are driven by conviction, passion, a sense of belonging, and love.

For me I've had so many men and women which have really inspired me to train and to try harder and to go on trips, and you know, explore areas I haven't explored before. And in the future I'm hoping that I can be a role model for young girls like myself at this point, um, to keep climbing and to follow their passion no matter what it is, if it's ballet or if it's rockclimbing. I think it's important to have a role model. So, it'd be an honor at some point if people saw me how I see a lot of the women I've always looked up to.
She'll be all of that, and already is such a role model. Review the Slaydies vid and you'll note Emily Harrington, though nearly a decade her senior, somewhat tongue-in-cheek says she wants to grow up to be just like Margo. Even now, Margo may be a role model for young girls, but she's also an inspiration to all who love the sport, and particularly to those of us who've long passed through that portal of powerful, committed, and active engagement with fellow climbers and with the stone.

I'm working with Lynn Hill on a short piece to expose her perspective on gender issues in climbing. When comparing men and women in climbing Lynn suggested that women in general, whether at the high or low end of the pursuit, may in fact display a certain technical grace and fluidity that men aren't as easily disposed to commanding or demonstrating, which is more a subjective matter of style, as opposed to an objective standard that measures who can pull down harder or achieve the highest grades.

Certainly Lynn is correct in noting that attribute in women who climb well. Watching these women in the bouldering videos offered in this thread, I relate more to what they are doing than I do to what the men do on the stone. Why is this? Because the essence of climbing is technique, not power. Everybody needs power, the best need it to prevail in competitions and to establish the hardest routes. But when observing a climber, I can better empathize with the moves being portrayed by women and it's much more accessible for me to vicariously project myself into the theme of these climbs when I watch women performing, because the movement skills they are demonstrating are more likely to be pared down to the technique involved. Power just connects the dots, but technique arranges the possibility for success overall.

At the beginning, Margo says:
Over the past few years the gender gap has really narrowed and for the years coming I think that it's going to, there's going to be a big change and more women, more young girls are coming up in rockclimbing, so, watch out boys, ha ha!
Well, it's narrowing beyond that, because Margo and those like her inspire in a way that transcends gender.

In a Climbing magazine interview, Paige Claassen, jokingly: “Climbing is becoming obsolete for men,” says Claassen. “I think it’s going to become a women’s-only sport.”

The grain of truth in this bit of jovial brinksmanship from Paige: if you want to see how it's done, watch a woman do it. To climb like a girl is to climb with precision, efficiency, and economy. If you've got power to spare, then more power to you, as they say. You'll also notice in the Slaydies video, between the three women, the word fierce gets used a number of times when they are describing each other's personal strengths. That's not just some buzzword they are tossing about to build each other up. Watch Margo on La Rambla: every single move caught on video, every action she commits, is delivered with fierce urgency. She didn't become the first woman to achieve 15a without bucket loads of fierceness applied to her training, her desire, and her execution.

So yeah, not only is the gender gap closing, and though men may always, statistically speaking, have greater musculature and more androgens which suit them in taking the lead in comparative physical power, the sheer power of inspiration that women bring to all of us, may prove to be the most powerful influence overall.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Margo_Hayes
https://www.climbing.com/news/a-necessary-evolution-michaela-kiersch-and-paige-claassen-send-necessary-evil/
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
May 12, 2018 - 10:53am PT
On or off the rock, those particular nymphs would clearly still be way out of my league even if I was young and handsome again.
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
May 14, 2018 - 06:57am PT
This thread gives hope that young people may save the world. Not climbers, but other young people. The young climbers kind of give me an idea of how rad the non-climbers could be, though.


And I really really like how Matt and Will re-tool the Old School.




Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2018 - 07:55am PT
And I really really like how Matt and Will re-tool the Old School.
+1
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2018 - 07:55am PT
MH2 also said:
This thread gives hope that young people may save the world. Not climbers, but other young people. The young climbers kind of give me an idea of how rad the non-climbers could be, though.
True, climbers tend to spend the bulk of their time climbing, especially at the top end of the sport.

But the young climbers (and a few of the old dogs), in their spare time, are more proactive than you might imagine. And yes, climbers tend to focus on access, but the scope of their concern as expressed to government is not limited to access.

Climb the Hill 2018, in its third year, just took place between May 9-11, 2018.
https://www.climbthehill.org/toolkit/
Today the delegates met with representatives, senators and other government officials to discuss matters pertaining to the Recreation Not Red Tape Act, the Land and Water Conservation Fund (which expires this October), the Antiquities Act and energy development.
Above excerpt from Alpinist magazine
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web18s/newswire-climb-the-hill-2018-preview

Last year, 2017, the collaborative event grew to a veritable mob of over 50, including AAC and AF staff and board members, and such visible climbers as Alex Honnold, Libby Sauter, Kai Lightner, Sasha DiGiulian and Tommy Caldwell. This week at least 65 persons will take part, from May 9 to 11. This year’s crew of influential climbers includes repeaters such as Honnold, Sauter, Caldwell and DiGiulian, also Quinn Brett, Lynn Hill, Margo Hayes, Bethany Lebewitz, Mikhail Martin and Maricela Rosales. (See full list below.)
Above excerpt from Rock & Ice magazine
http://rockandice.com/climbing-news/alex-honnold-lynn-hill-and-more-descend-on-capitol-hill/

..............................................

Paige Claassen, professional climber,
Independent from self-referential concerns related to climbing access, leveraged her business and marketing degree to found SAEF: South Africa Education Fund.
We envision a community in which kids receive the education necessary to lift themselves and their families out of poverty.
Above excerpt from SA Education Fund home page:
http://www.saeducationfund.org/
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2018 - 08:52am PT
In 2013, prior to starting the South Africa Education Fund, Paige was involved with Marmot's Lead Now Tour.
Nonprofit fundraising was a component goal of the trip.

Paige Claassen:
Jon and I visited Wesley Memorial Primary School, a rural elementary school whose library is supported by Room to Read, our non-profit partner in South Africa. By releasing this video, and other content about our time in South Africa, we hope to raise $10,000 for Room to Read.
http://www.roomtoread.org/

Also, excellent footage of Paige on Rodan, 5.14a, and her FA of Digital Warfare, 5.14a:

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Published by LT 11, August 28, 2013.
http://www.lt11.com/



Paige wrote:

I built this mythical route up in my mind, which Andrew referred to as the Digital Warfare Project for the strain it puts on one’s ‘digits’ – 15 degrees overhung, smooth, orange and grey streaked sandstone with just enough shallow pockets and thin edges to go. Hard, just my style, perfect. Andrew generously passed this golden prize, the opportunity to make a first ascent of the world’s coolest route, off to a random girl from the States (a million thanks Andrew!).

Photos: Jon Glassberg LT11
http://paigeclaassen.com/digital-warfare/
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
May 14, 2018 - 09:28am PT
perhaps a connection/inspiration or legacy corporate imprint here? https://www.linkedin.com/in/eric-reynolds-3931a44

the marmot founders were my first yosemite ropemates, fellow students at uc santa cruz. eric sold in '87 (before paige's advent likely)
and went into environmental/third world aid stuff like currently in rwanda healthy energy type stuff like gasification (rocket stoves?)
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2018 - 09:48am PT
Yes, Hooblie: I'm well acquainted with Eric Reynolds, founder of Marmot!
Really good guy, and definitely involved in philanthropic concerns to do with Africa.

Though, perhaps a company legacy/imprint, Eric was long gone from Marmot by the time Lead Now was established. Paige Claassen was born in 1990.

Thread drift alert!

Wood Nymph admirers, Tarbuster and Eric Reynolds in the Adamants Range, Selkirk Mountains, Canada, 1999.
My 25th year of climbing, same year Paige Claassen started climbing, at 9 years old!











Fun tidbit: Eric, tongue-in-cheek, in Francophile style, liked to pronounce his company Mar-Moh.

Went back to the Selkirks with much of the same crew, and my wife Lisa, in 2000.
More pictures of those and other trips here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/196724/Scrambles-Amongst-The-Rockies
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2018 - 01:00pm PT
From fall of 2013:

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Published by LT 11, October 1, 2013.
http://www.lt11.com/

Paige Claassen:
While in Russia, we’re supporting Women’s World Banking, which helps low income women access financial services, including small business microloans so they can independently support their families. Due to NGO restrictions, Women’s World Banking is not currently active in Russia, however they are the only global network that focuses on women. Women’s World Banking has served over 19 million clients, and 73% of those are women who now benefit from insurance, savings, and small business loans.
http://paigeclaassen.com/video-womens-world-banking/
http://paigeclaassen.com/left-behind-in-the-russian-federation/
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
May 14, 2018 - 05:57pm PT
Excellent news. Tarbuster in the Adamants, climbers who love the places they climb and work to help keep them wonderful, and South Africa!!

When I read that Andrew had done a good thing for Paige, my mind went back to when Andy De Klerk was in Seattle (might still be for what I know). Different Andrew, though.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2018 - 07:12pm PT
Yes, she's referencing Andrew Pedley.
Here's your man, Andy de Klerk:

This is a darn good interview!
http://www.climbing.co.za/2017/02/andy-de-klerk-interview/

Now I'm going to have to get his book: Sharper Edges.
https://www.amazon.com/Sharper-Edges-Stories-Beyond-Places/dp/1919938486/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526350610&sr=8-1&keywords=Andy+de+Klerk++sharper+edges
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2018 - 07:19pm PT
Lead Now Global Tour: Italy

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Published by LT 11, November 5, 2013
http://www.lt11.com/

While in Italy, I’m supporting Save the Children, which helps children around the world access nutritious foods so they have the energy to study, play, and grow.
The event has ended, but the nonprofit is still in force:
https://www.savethechildren.org/

Paige crossed into Switzerland for an ascent of Mosaico (6a+/5.10b), a ten pitch route, summiting La Fiamma, the base reached via cable car:
I’m a sport climber. More specifically, I like climbing clean faces with thin crimps and delicate feet, preferably 10 degrees overhanging.
However, part of my goal in Italy was to gain experience on multi pitch and traditional routes, things I don’t make time for at home, thanks to tunnel vision for sport routes. While I love sport climbing and plan to continue pushing myself on difficult sport routes, I think it’s important to have an understanding and respect for all types of climbing.

I get a kick out of this quote!
I’ve learned a few important things from these experiences. Most obviously, I enjoyed setting up belay stations and placing cams more than I actually enjoyed the climbing.
Excerpts from:
http://paigeclaassen.com/the-acquired-taste-of-adventure-multi-pitch-climbing/


In the video, you'll see Paige making the second ascent of Art Attack, 5.14b. An actual slab!
The reason she says climbing it was a miracle, is because she had totally given up! Occasionally, we have to let go, in order to hold on!?

(Especially on 5.14 slabs, ha ha, something most of us know very little about ...)
Sometimes, miracles happen. Making the second ascent of Art Attack, an 8c (5.14b) granite slab in northern Italy’s Val Masino, was nothing short of a miracle. Since Simone Pedeferri established the route in 2004, Art Attack hasn’t seen a repeat, likely because not many people enjoy slab climbing.
Excerpt from: http://paigeclaassen.com/art-attack/
L

climber
Just livin' the dream on the California coast
May 14, 2018 - 08:01pm PT
#Slaydies

If only the Warbler were here....oh, the howling and growling and gnashing of teeth we would hear! giggle-giggle

I've watched every video you posted here, Roy, and like MH2 said, it gives me a lot of hope.




Especially for Ladies Who Slay.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2018 - 08:04pm PT
I'm glad you are enjoying these videos as much as I am, Laura!
LT 11 in particular, produces high quality videography and I really like the narratives.

http://www.lt11.com/
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2018 - 08:25pm PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Published by LT 11 on March 6, 2017
http://www.lt11.com/

I can say that at 3:40, the Boulder problem Pinotage, 7B+, is named after a South African wine!
Pinotage /ˈpɪnətɑːʒ/ PIN-ə-tahzh[1] is a red wine grape that is South Africa's signature variety. It was bred there in 1925 as a cross between Pinot noir and Cinsaut (Cinsaut was known as "Hermitage" in South Africa at that time, hence the portmanteau name). It typically produces deep red varietal wines with smoky, bramble and earthy flavors, sometimes with notes of bananas and tropical fruit, but has been criticized for sometimes smelling of acetone.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinotage

And yes, I have tried the wine! But NOT the boulders ...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2018 - 04:32pm PT
I've been in touch with Warbler! Why, no doubt he'd go climbing. In fact that's just what he's doing ...



Kevin Worrall/Warbler said, regarding the picture just above:

"Working on an 8 pitch route. Rising traverse starts down around the toe of that buttress at the very lowest point of the crag, climbs up about 60’, then traverses these two parallel seams for another 100 ft before turning the corner to the wall in the photo, leading to 6 pitches up a natural line midway between the skyline and the brush. Finishes on a diorite buttress about a third of the way across the photo from left to right - pretty much the highest point on the Wall. All 5.9 and mid 5.10 pitches, killer rock. 60% gear protected. Longest route in SD County."
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2018 - 04:35pm PT
A pair of 10+ minute film shorts by Andy Mann ...
Showing what happens when a boulderer, a sport climber, and some alpinists plan and execute a multidisciplinary trip to the Cordillera Blanca, Peru.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Published July 12, 2013
http://www.andymann.com/

I've known Pete Takeda since he showed up in the Valley during the mid-80s. He got his nickname Big Wall Pete, from some early attempts at getting up on the walls. Abbey Smith was one of the itinerant locals on the climbing gym scene around Boulder when I was working it in 2004 as a rep for Evolv. If you've been following this thread, you already know plenty about Paige Claassen. Never met Mick Follari.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2018 - 06:06pm PT
Big Wall Pete Takeda in Hueco, on lead, 1990:





Don't need a pad when you are this close to the ground!
Nevermind that we didn't have any ...



Still no pad: better keep following crimping instructions on the package!

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2018 - 07:16pm PT
Evolv ad from 2004:



Tarbuster/Roy, 2003-2005, 15 months, 4000 hours, 50,000 miles, 120+ Evolv rock shoe demos, 40 new accounts.
During this juggernaut tour, I met hundreds of young climbers!




Representing Evolv at Lumpy Ridge trail work project, Twin Owls, 2004:


hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
May 16, 2018 - 05:11am PT
a trail of breadcrumbs lead to this wonderful place
starting from a paige claasen reference to a friends photo style:

https://www.angiepayne.com/index/G0000CQT1eRAcxGo

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2018 - 07:27am PT
Of course Angie Payne was on the scene in 2004. In one of these comps, as I recall a PCA event at the Wasatch Front in SLC, I was watching Angie crush it. Her form is immaculate. I remarked to Chris Wall, one of the better educated and most effective of all of the climbing coaches, just how precise were the body control and footwork components she displayed and he said simply: Angie's got skills.

To say that Angie Payne's photography is remarkable is an understatement!
Again, here is a person whose application of mind and body trends well into the artistic.

As hooblie intimated, readers who love imagery of the natural world MUST SEE her photography.
https://www.angiepayne.com/index

Check her kinesthetic awareness, flow, physical economy, and foot placements beginning at 2:30.
Still the mind, still the body = flow state:

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Published February 8, 2015

Angie in Greenland:

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Published May 29, 2013
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
May 16, 2018 - 07:40am PT
thanks for helping out T, i was too dumbstruck to break out any suitably emphatic lingo
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2018 - 08:10am PT
Love this guy, Chris Wall.

First met him in Boulder during the 90s, when he was pursuing his advanced degree in exercise physiology, then witnessed him putting it into action throughout 2004.
One of the most grounded, effective guys I met on my tour:

[Click to View YouTube Video]

[Click to View YouTube Video]

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2018 - 11:12am PT
Flow Experience

During the middle to late Stonemaster era*, trad climbing was a phrase which hadn't yet come into use. As a group we were bouldering up to V6-V7 without pads, sometimes harder, pushing into 5.12 on lead under the artistic constraints of a risk-laden trad ethos, and top roping 12+.

The kind of movement skills and personal containment strategies demonstrated by Angie Payne and embraced by Chris Wall in the above videos were in full force. Of necessity, we engaged climbing in these ways, as an avenue to survival, though certainly not achieving Angie's level of difficulty. This was exemplified in the movement skills of John Bachar, Ed Barry, and Lynn Hill, and of course John Gill before us. In the late 70s and early 80s, Bachar would rehearse climbs on top rope, and then solo them, exemplified by Baby Apes, 5.12c, 1980.




Wikipedia on FLOW:
Jeanne Nakamura and Csíkszentmihályi identify the following six factors as encompassing an experience of flow:[2]
1. Intense and focused concentration on the present moment
2. Merging of action and awareness
3. A loss of reflective self-consciousness
4. A sense of personal control or agency over the situation or activity
5. A distortion of temporal experience, one's subjective experience of time is altered
6. Experience of the activity as intrinsically rewarding, also referred to as autotelic experience

Those aspects can appear independently of each other, but only in combination do they constitute a so-called flow experience. Additionally, psychology writer Kendra Cherry has mentioned three other components that Csíkszentmihályi lists as being a part of the flow experience:[3]
1. "Immediate feedback"[3]
2. Feeling that you have the potential to succeed
3. Feeling so engrossed in the experience, that other needs become negligible
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flow_(psychology);

........................................................

*While the original Stonemasters are known as Southern Californians John Long, Rick Accomazzo, Richard Harrison, Mike Graham, Robs Muir, Gibb Lewis, Bill Antel, Jim Hoagland, and Tobin Sorensen (as stated in the book by John Long and Dean Fidelman, The Stonemasters, California Rock Climbers in the 70s), the term has come to define a movement and an era, along with other protagonists who were already in situ in Yosemite. I've informally broken this era into three periods, early: 1972-1975, middle: 1976-1979, and late: 1980-1983. It really is bookended by the sport climbing competition, Sportroccia in Arco Italy, 1985.

There was a movement philosophy imbued in three climbers emblematic of the Stonemaster middle-late period. (Having started climbing in 1974 in Southern California, I've been well acquainted with these three climbers, two of whom are no longer with us.) The late John "Yabo" Yablonski spoke of achieving the realm of no-pump, (though his climbing style per se wasn't all that smooth), while the late John Bachar espoused, and along with Yosemite local Ron Kauk habitually demonstrated a style of climbing wherein the climber sought to weight each point of contact equally, avoiding over-gripping and achieving maximum economy and flow.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Gill_(climber);
http://www.johngill.net/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Bachar
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ron_Kauk
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stonemasters

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sportroccia
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2018 - 05:35pm PT
Japan!
Like everything from LT 11, this film short is uncommonly delicious.

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Published by LT 11 on December 2, 2013

Excerpt from Paige Claassen's narration at the end of the video:
We all climb, travel or go on adventures because we get to meet people, see amazing places and learn the simple things about life along the way. We learn how other cultures value the things that make their country special. We learn how to eat soup with chopsticks. And we learn that we really aren't all that different after all. Each of us wants to challenge ourselves and support those around us: this is why we climb


........................................................

China!

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Published by LT 11 on January 12, 2014

Reading entries on Paige Claassen's blog is like opening a box of chocolates: you'll want to sample all of them!
Here's a tasty treat:

The Rise and Fall of Confidence
Excerpt:
Confidence is like a bonsai tree. It’s delicate branches take ages to grow, but when put in the wrong hands, those wisps of life won’t last long … I found myself in Yangshuo, China on some of the world’s steepest, most physical climbs with atrophied forearms and the core strength of a hippopotamus.


http://paigeclaassen.com/the-rise-and-fall-of-confidence/
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2018 - 11:12am PT
Lead Now Global Tour: India

[Click to View YouTube Video]
published by LT 11, January 26, 2014
While in India, I’m climbing to raise money for Apne Aap, an Indian based organization working to end forced prostitution. In India, the average age for a girl to be sold into prostitution is 9-13, and she may spend 10 years working off her selling price without pay.
http://apneaap.org/

I wanted to climb some of the most obscure, beautiful sport lines in the world, in locations that would force me to learn about myself, about the world, and about the people in it. What better place than India?
Above excerpts from: http://paigeclaassen.com/ganesh-and-adventures-in-india/

..............................................................

Lead Now Global Tour: Turkey

[Click to View YouTube Video]
published by LT 11 March 5, 2014
Did you know that women and girls make up 70% of the world’s 1 billion poorest people? Or that a child born to a literate mother is 50% more likely to survive past the age of 5? These are statistics from CARE, a Lead Now supported organization that helps the poorest communities in the world unleash their full potential.
Above excerpt from: http://paigeclaassen.com/turkey-time/
http://www.care.org/
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2018 - 11:16am PT
As I've been reposting links to charities suggested through Paige Claassen's blog and these LT 11 climbing videos,
Some may find this charity qualifying and ranking tool useful:

Charity Navigator
https://www.charitynavigator.org/
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2018 - 07:18am PT
My Personal Interest in Sport Climbing and Climbing Competitions

Like most contributors to this forum, I'm what you might call a dyed in the wool trad climber. In 1978, I wrote a curriculum for Cal State LA, formalizing their fledgling guiding program so the insurance underwriters would allow me to head up their climbing courses. Most of my living from 1979 through 1989 came from guiding, both in Southern California and Yosemite.

In 1982, for $600 I led and all free, no-falls ascent of Astroman, with two Navy SEALs in tow, on jumars. I was the first Yosemite Mountaineering School guide to make guided ascents of El Capitan: first The Nose, in 1987, co-guided with Doug Nidever, our clients both esteemed Italian guides, and then the Salathe Wall, in 1988, as a team of two with my client, a wiry, keen and hyperactive guy from Delco electronics who speed-jumared radio towers in preparation for the route. In the scheme of things, the reader may find it surprising that it took that long for YMS to begin marshaling selected clients up El Capitan, but it's true.

Though we California climbers were late adopters (see: bolt wars), during 1988 and 1989 I had been involved in the establishment of sport routes in Joshua Tree such as: Satanic Mechanic and Tonic Boom. In Yosemite: Killer Pillar and Bucket Brigade. Around that time, Jim Bridwell approached Peter Mayfield with a collection of plastic holds from Europe and told him: "Peter, this is the future".

In spring of 1989 I decided to move out of guiding and began helping Peter with promotional events to secure funding for what would be the third climbing gym in the country at the time, City Rock, in Emeryville California (now Ironworks in Berkeley). Later that year, Peter introduced me to Jeff Lowe so that I could learn to run climbing competitions, which eventuated in my employ with Jeff. In summer of 1989 I worked for Jeff Lowe at the second US international competition at Snowbird resort in Utah.

I soon became an ex-patriot Californian, living in Colorado, where Jeff Lowe was based, generating a handful of competitions for J&J Low Sport Climbing Championships, culminating in the 1990 North Face Berkeley World Cup at Greek Theater.

Here's an entire thread which I put together chronicling that event:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/774875/Jeff-Lowes-1990-North-Face-Berkeley-World-Cup-Competition.


https://touchstoneclimbing.com/ironworks/
https://touchstoneclimbing.com/about/
1997
Touchstone acquired CityRock of Emeryville, which was one of the first indoor climbing gyms built in the country. Gym members could now enjoy the benefits of multiple locations; but with a population of over two million people in the greater Bay Area, there was still SO much room to grow!

2000
Realizing that the East Bay market was underserved by CityRock’s moderate size, Touchstone embarked on an ambitious project to build a new gym that was nearly three times as large. Berkeley Ironworks was completed in the spring of 2000, adding a huge fitness area, a yoga studio, and indoor cycling room, revolutionizing the concept of what a climbing gym could be.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2018 - 07:18am PT
Repping for EVOLV.

The presentation of these 1989/1990 J&J Lowe SCC climbing competitions demanded hellacious hours from all involved, and the whole enterprise collapsed horribly after the 1990 Greek Theater World Cup, because the meager amount of money taken at the gate and the lack of enough highline sponsorship required Jeff Lowe to rely on North Face to pick up a huge amount of the tab, well beyond their financial commitment.

That was the death of climbing competitions in the US for quite some time. But throughout the 90s, the proliferation of climbing gyms began to set the stage for a more grassroots approach to the indoor competition business model. So in late 2003, when I had the opportunity to leverage my enthusiasm for climbing gyms and climbing competitions in support of a rock shoe company, I was pretty excited about it!

How excited? Just look at my self-imposed rock shoe demo promotional schedule, which took me to a number of climbing gyms throughout the Four Corners states:

Roy’s Evolv Demos (121 total)

October 2003 (3)
10/30 The Spot comp CO
10/31 Gym of the Rockies comp CO
Luke Evans gym (?) CO

November 2003 (12)
11/01 Rock'n & Jam'n comp CO
11/04 Gym of the Rockies demo CO
11/05 Boulder Rock Club demo CO
11/13 Rock'n & Jam'n demo CO
11/14 The Spot demo CO
11/15 Breckenridge Rec Center comp CO
11/19 Breckenridge Rec Center demo CO
11/28 Vail Athletic demo CO
11/29 Colorado Mountain College comp CO
12/25 Thrillseekers demo CO
12/21 Thrillseekers comp CO
12/22 Vail Athletic comp CO

December 2003 (5)
12/05 Paradise DCL comp CO
12/12 The Spot comp CO
12/16 Paradise demo CO
12/19 Red Mountain Rock Gym comp CO
12/27 Red Mountain Rock Gym demo CO

January 2004 (9)
01/02 Glenwood Community Center comp CO
01/06 Rockreation demo UT
01/07 The Quarry demo UT
01/08 Glenwood Community Center demo CO
01/10 Breckenridge Rec Center comp CO
01/12 The Front Gym demo UT
01/16 The Spot comp CO
01/23 Gym of the Rockies comp CO
*01/25 St. George Utah sales calls
01/30 OR Show demo UT

February 2004 (16)
02/01 OR Show demo UT
02/02 OR Show demo UT
02/06 Vail Athletic Club demo CO
02/07 Boulder Rock Club comp CO
02/08 Paradise Rock Gym demo CO
*02/09 Flagstaff Arizona sales calls
*02/11 Phoenix, Arizona sales calls
02/12 Red Mountain Rock Gym comp CO
02/13 Rock'n & Jam'n comp CO
02/16 Rock'n & Jam'n demo CO
02/17 Vertical Relief demo AZ
02/18 Solid Rock Gym demo AZ
02/19 Rocks and Ropes demo AZ
02/20 Stone Age Gym demo NM
02/21 Colorado Mountain College comp CO
02/25 Arizona on the Rocks gym demo AZ
02/26 Phoenix Rock Gym demo AZ
02/29 Thrillseekers Gym demo CO

March 2004 (8)
03/02 Colorado Springs Climbing Center demo CO
03/09 Rockreation demo UT
03/10 The Front Gym demo UT
*03/11 Ouray and Moab sales calls
03/13 Redbrick Aspen comp CO
03/14 Lakeshore Athletic Club demo CO
03/16 The Spot Gym comp CO
*03/19-03/21 Red Rocks Rendezvous for Asana NV
03/27 Gym of the Rockies comp CO
03/30 Horse Tooth Reservoir demo CO

April 2004 (10)
04/01 Ben Lomand Climbing Center demo UT
04/02 Stone Age Gym demo NM
04/04 Santa Fe Climbing Center demo NM
04/10 The Spot Gym comp CO
04/20 Vertical Relief comp AZ
04/23 Phoenix Bouldering Contest AZ
04/24 Phoenix Bouldering Contest AZ
04/25 The Peak (?) Evergreen comp CO (juggernaut 15 hour drive)
04/28 Horse Tooth Reservoir demo CO
04/30 Women's Wilderness Gear and Cheer demo CO

May 2004 (14)
05/05 The Spot Gym Lochbuie School demo CO
05/08 Moab Indian Creek demo UT
05/09 Moab Potash demo UT
05/11 Horse Tooth Reservoir demo CO
05/12 Outdoor Diva clinic CO
05/15 Stone Age Gym outdoor comp NM
05/16 Sport Climbing Center Colorado Springs comp CO
05/19 Boulder Theater Tim O'Neill demo CO
05/21 Los Alamos YMCA demo NM
05/22 Solid Rock Gym demo AZ
05/23 AZ On the Rocks demo AZ of
05/24 Rocks and Ropes demo AZ
05/25 Phoenix Rock Gym comp AZ
05/29 Outdoor Diva Flagstaff demo CO

June 2004 (1)
06/19 Rock'n & Jam'n II Jr. climbers program (JCP) CO

July 2004 (2)
07/17 Mountain Miser Morrison outdoor demo CO
07/31 Crested Butte Bouldering comp CO

August 2004 (4)
08/07 Red Mountain Rock Gym/Copper Mtn Village outdoor demo CO
08/12 OR show demo UT
08/13 OR show demo UT
*08/14 OR show UT
08/15 OR show demo UT

September 2004 (5)
09/12 Breckenridge Rec Center Red Cliff outdoor demo CO
*09/14 preview WWSRA show CO
09/17 HERA SLC demo UT
09/18 HERA SLC demo UT
09/24 The Spot Gym comp CO
09/25 Paradise Rock Gym demo CO

October 2004 (8)
10/02 Castlewood Canyon Adopt a Crag demo CO
10/07 Cherryvale Fire Department demo CO
10/09 The Spot Gym She Sends demo CO
10/16 Vertical Relief comp AZ
10/17 Mud and Flood Tres Piedras demo NM
10/26 Animas Rock Gym demo CO
10/28 Phoenix Rock Gym demo AZ
10/30 Phoenix Phlapper Fest comp AZ

November 2004 (14)
11/01 Sport Climbing Center JCP demo CO
11/04 Colorado College demo CO
11/05 Outward Bound demo CO
11/06 Laramie Community Center comp WY
11/11 Western State College comp CO
11/12 Breckenridge Rec Center comp CO
11/13 Vail Athletic Club comp CO
11/15 Vertical Relief comp AZ
11/16 Prescott YMCA comp AZ
11/17 Fort Collins High School team JCP CO
11/18 Inner Strength demo CO
11/19 Thrillseekers comp CO (drive all night through snowstorm)
11/20 Rock of Ages morning comp Grand Junction CO
11/29 Boulder Rock Club JCP demo CO

December 2004 (6)
12/03 Red Mountain Rock Gym comp CO
12/04 Gravity Gym comp WY
12/06 Gym of the Rockies JCP demo CO
12/08 Trail Ridge Outfitters demo CO
12/09 Paradise Gym DCL comp CO
12/17 Boulder Rock Club TDF Finals CO

January 2005 (2)
12/06 HRCA Highlands Ranch demo CO
12/07 Glenwood Springs Rec Center 2 comps CO
12/15 Paradise Rock Gym DCL comp***demo kit sell-off

 At that last DCL comp, all the parents and all the kids gave me a standing ovation.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2018 - 07:16pm PT
DMT! Beautiful and so apropos to the thread.
Thank you.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2018 - 07:17pm PT
Marmot Lead Now Tour – Ecuador!

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Published by LT 11, April 7, 2014

Time spent in Cajas feels almost mythical. It can’t be real. Wisps of mist float down the valley and in and out of hills. Beautiful grass plumes litter the hillsides. Each turn plops you at the bottom of a different rock face – blank and slabby, steep and rippled, cracks, features, single or multi pitch. The approach to some cliffs requires a horse.
Above excerpt from: http://paigeclaassen.com/trekking-through-middle-earth-first-ascent-at-13000-feet/

While in Ecuador, I’m climbing to raise money for Heifer International, a global non profit that applies the “teach a man to fish” philosophy by helping bring sustainable agriculture to impoverished communities. We’ll be visiting two rural villages in Ecuador where Heifer supports local projects – one involving llamas and alpacas and the other regarding soil enrichment.
Above excerpt from:
http://paigeclaassen.com/video-heifer-international-ecuador-wrap-up/
https://www.heifer.org/

............................................................

Marmot Lead Now Tour – Chile!

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Published by LT 11, May 5, 2014

We first climbed at El Arrayán, a technical basalt area with blocky roofs and sharp thin crimps. El Arrayán turned out to be my favorite cliff around Santiago, particularly because a great horned owl watches over the cliff from a low branch throughout the day (can I get a hooo hooo, Lisa Hathaway!?).
Above excerpt from: http://paigeclaassen.com/chile-back-to-the-desert/

Over the past few weeks, we’ve spent some time working with VE Global, a non-profit organization based in Chile. VE Global works with residential homes, community centers, and schools in Santiago to support children at social risk. Many of these kids are victims of abuse, neglect, and/or abandonment, and lack positive role models in their lives. VE organizes volunteers from around the world to serve as mentors, educators, and representatives of social justice at the children’s homes.
Above excerpt from:
http://paigeclaassen.com/ve-global/
http://www.ve-global.org/
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2018 - 07:17pm PT
With the video from part 9, Chile, that wraps up my excerpts from Paige Claassen's blog coverage of the Marmot Lead Now Global Tour – a nine month tour of world-class sport climbs, a sprinkling of bouldering areas, and locally relevant charities. In most cases, where I found them still in effect, I've relinked the relevant charities.

If you like travel and images and stories of connoisseur climbs and fascinating destinations the world over, you owe it to yourself to read her blog! You'll enjoy many observations and recollections written up in a direct and uncluttered fashion, along with tons of great images both from Paige and Jon Glassberg/LT 11.
http://paigeclaassen.com/blog/

Go here for some black-and-white panoramas that Paige captured along the way:
http://paigeclaassen.com/black-and-white-panoramas-around-the-world/
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2019 - 08:52am PT
Dan Howley/SPOT Bouldering Gym, seen here at an after party at the Boulder Outlook Hotel, handing out checks following a PCA competition in 2004.
I'm telling you, this dude is an impresario!


 Pretty sure that's a young Emily Harrington in the lower left of the second photo.

 And again, here's a really good resource for sizing up any of the potential charities which Paige Claassen promoted through her world tour:
https://www.charitynavigator.org/
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Mar 16, 2019 - 09:45am PT
I was not online when this thread debuted,
So pardon me for feeling screwed.

I could be occupied with this thread all day today quite easily.

Thanks, Roy.

edit: *hoooo hoooo*
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 16, 2019 - 04:03pm PT
Yana, Maid
zBrown

Ice climber
Mar 16, 2019 - 04:45pm PT
I will just say

Nice thread tB

A rare one which leaves no room for hexen und geister

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