Hans Florine rescue on the Nose

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youri

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - May 3, 2018 - 05:36pm PT
https://www.facebook.com/HansFlorineclimbs/photos/a.340616905986842.73791.325052707543262/1692315224150330/?type=3
«  Well, there is a rescue going on, on El Capitan. And it's me. I think I broke my leg. Rescuers please be safe. @foyosar  »
ClimbingOn

Trad climber
NY
May 3, 2018 - 05:46pm PT
Best wishes for Hans and the rescuers. Interested to hear what happened.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
May 3, 2018 - 06:55pm PT
hey there say, ... oh my... prayers for all to go well... i just heard this from a friend, on the phone...

thanks for the heads up...
zip

Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
May 3, 2018 - 07:12pm PT
DANG!
Hope all are safely on the ground soon.
zBrown

Ice climber
May 3, 2018 - 07:41pm PT
Walter Cronkite is scratching his head.

How dey do dat🎶

May the best result be the result
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 3, 2018 - 08:01pm PT
You know, it’s just a traditional theatre phrase , when someone says “ Break a leg” don’t take it literally!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 3, 2018 - 08:31pm PT
Hooe you’re down soon...pretty classy message for the rescuers!
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
May 3, 2018 - 09:45pm PT
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
May 3, 2018 - 11:05pm PT
hey there say, enjoimx... wow! say, thanks so very much for letting
us all know...


good for them! >:D<
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
May 4, 2018 - 07:16am PT
Hans, glad that you have a smile on and thumbs up. Heal fast.
i-b-goB

Social climber
Wise Acres
May 4, 2018 - 07:22am PT
Sorry this happened, keep up your good spirits and heal PDQ!
Go YOSAR!
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
May 4, 2018 - 07:23am PT
Hans, when you are able please hook me up with contact to your pain killer supplier. :)

Heal up well and soon.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 4, 2018 - 07:29am PT
Only Hans could handle this with such aplomb.
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
May 4, 2018 - 07:35am PT
Only Hans could handle this with such aplomb.

Not sure about that, but all the best to him, hope it's not too serious.
Spanky

Social climber
boulder co
May 4, 2018 - 08:32am PT
Its not a big deal but I'm a bit confused. I saw a video from his partner this am on facebook that said he was on dolt, but one of the posts above said they were on grey ledges. Were they on the nose or some other route? Anyone know what happened?

Either way best wishes to Hans on a speedy recovery!
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
May 4, 2018 - 08:50am PT
crossing fingers for a safe return with minimal damage of my blonde buddy hans, steve
Mr_T

Trad climber
Northern California
May 4, 2018 - 08:54am PT
>> I saw a video from his partner this am on facebook that said he was on dolt, but one of the posts above said they were on grey ledges. Were they on the nose or some other route? Anyone know what happened?

Hans climbs fast. His partner probably noticed the problem at grey ledges. They probably topped whatever they were doing, got half way up the Nose when Hans finally realized that two broken legs is a problem and he should get it looked at.

Hoping for a speedy recovery.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
May 4, 2018 - 09:02am PT
Grey Bands are between Boot and Camp IV. Grey Ledges is a few hundred feet to the left where Shield, Muir, etc, pass through.

Only someone like Hans could get away with social media updates of his own rescue, I think anyone else would be getting totally roasted right now.

Being injured sux, hope he gets it all back.
Fossil climber

Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
May 4, 2018 - 09:42am PT
Really sorry to hear this. Hang in there, Hans!
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
May 4, 2018 - 09:44am PT
pinky and thumb look fine.
now, is it me ... or do those other fingers look a little droopy?

heal up right and proper Hans, you'll be back on it soon
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
May 4, 2018 - 09:48am PT
Not efficient to break a leg!

More gristle for the presentations?

Heal fast!
d-bird

Trad climber
walnut creek ,ca
May 4, 2018 - 12:09pm PT
He'll likely be back in a couple of weeks for the first dual leg casted speed accent of the Nose......
Get well soon buddy!!!!
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
May 4, 2018 - 02:21pm PT
got half way up the Nose when Hans finally realized that two broken legs is a problem

Running out of gas because of mechanical problems, and needing a rescue must suck. You'd think that Hans would know better, than to start off without first checking to make sure everything is OK.

Ghoulwe

Trad climber
Spokane, WA
May 4, 2018 - 02:57pm PT
I'm guessing Hans will set a record for broken leg recovery. Then he'll break them again next year and beat his recovery time by several days...
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
May 4, 2018 - 03:26pm PT
Yikes! Best Wishes for a complete recovery.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
May 4, 2018 - 04:33pm PT
Sometimes, bad luck happens. Even to the best and most experienced.
Best wishes for a speedy and complete recovery.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
May 4, 2018 - 04:37pm PT
Hoping for good outcome Hans
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
May 4, 2018 - 05:13pm PT
Sorry to hear this.

Heal up, Hans!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
May 4, 2018 - 05:32pm PT
So you won't be passing me on El Cap like usual this spring??

Heal up well, Hansy.
WBraun

climber
May 4, 2018 - 09:27pm PT
According to the Fresno Bee El Cap is NOT a rock wall anymore.

It's a mountain.

Where mountain climbers climb and break their bodies .......
skywalker1

Trad climber
co
May 4, 2018 - 09:38pm PT
Its best too keep the general public uninformed. Less of a hassle with all the details and stuff.

S...
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
May 5, 2018 - 07:40am PT
Heal fast Hans!
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
May 5, 2018 - 08:26am PT
Sending some love, and positive thoughts
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
May 5, 2018 - 09:54am PT
Hopefully Hans and company are down safe and recuperating.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 5, 2018 - 10:14am PT
best wishes to Hans for the time of healing that lays ahead

and props to the team and to YOSAR
zip

Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
May 5, 2018 - 12:48pm PT
Well, i guess it could have been worse.
Glad he appears to be relatively ok.
RJ Spurrier

SuperTopo staff member
May 5, 2018 - 01:12pm PT
Wishing you a "speedy" recovery, Hans!

Fun recovery photos, Cragman. :)
bchains

Trad climber
Bay Area, CA
May 5, 2018 - 05:23pm PT
Hans not giving AF. New nose record with erector set ankles...GO!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
May 5, 2018 - 05:41pm PT
hey there, say, hans... i only know you, from here at the ol' taco:

but, ahhhhh, there you GO!!

nothing like reading a 'training mag' when you just can't
quite be 'out there doing it' ... ;)


happy good eve, god bless, and keep getting well, at a good
solid rate...

:)
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
May 5, 2018 - 06:19pm PT
Hans,

I love the shameless plugs for your two books. It's a good sign that you are on the mend! Do you know any place in Yosemite West that might be available to help you recover in peace and quiet?
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
May 5, 2018 - 06:19pm PT
Hans reading "Training for Climbing". Classic.

Heal up soon.
aspendougy

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
May 5, 2018 - 07:50pm PT
Sounds like no serious head, spine or joint injuries, so hoping an praying for a prompt recovery.
Roadie

Trad climber
moab UT
May 5, 2018 - 08:04pm PT
so sorry, I hate it when that happens! relax, treat yourself to some decadence, enjoy the drugs... I remember some friendly, cutting banter we had on the good book twenty years ago, you're a good guy who can take good natured sh#t as well as give it. healing well is more important than healing fast. that's my best advice. good luck, roadie
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
May 5, 2018 - 08:48pm PT
Wishing you a very speedy recovery, Hans!
(I hope it's as fast as you climb)!!!
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
May 6, 2018 - 02:06am PT
Since Hans is idle, dip him in wax, cast that in bronze, and put the monument near the toe of the Nose.

Everybody wins.

micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
May 6, 2018 - 08:22am PT
You see man, that's why I place pro every half body length. Something tells me you might have been just a little more run out....

What you guys do up there amazes me. Sorry this one jumped out and bit you. Heal well, heal fully and know that your entire tribe is behind you.

Scott
HeschMonster

Trad climber
Morro Bay
May 7, 2018 - 05:32pm PT
micronut, i'm calling "totally runout" the next time placements exceed my ape index... ;)
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 7, 2018 - 07:41pm PT
http://abc7news.com/rock-climber-rescued-from-el-capitan-back-in-bay-area/3439828/
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
May 7, 2018 - 08:28pm PT
Glad his head and spine are ok but the external fixator bolted to his leg is a sign that whatever ankle injury Hans had was not minor. I just hope he didn't have a Pilon fracture, also called a Plafond fracture, where the joint gets blown up from impact. I had that and hope Hans didn't. Either way those are serious injuries and Hans will need the support of friends for awhile. It makes all the difference - that's for sure.

Heal up buddy!
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
May 7, 2018 - 10:11pm PT
hans has two badly broken feet. i have broken both my fibulas in falls from height, but his breaks are way worse. still, they seem mostly recoverable, and i think hans will go on to do the nose in a day again. left leg the talus is broke, the right leg is the calcaneous or heel bone as i understand.

hans was doing the upper part of pancake flake when he fell. this section is 5.11c or hard C!. hans was self belaying(on a gri gri i imagine) while his partner cleaned the great roof. he had a small cam in and placed and tested a stopper. he moved onto it and it blew. he said he fell about 20 feet into the flat triangular ledge that guard s this section. a bad place to fall, and the self belay system might not have been as sensitive as a regular belay,,,easy to build a little slack in that belay system. but he wasn't doing anything especially dangerous, and certainly was not running it out here.

and then he led his own rescue till sar arrived . shazam!

too bad it was too windy to do a pickoff last thursday with a helicopter a pickoff would have gotten hans to the hospital about 20 hours earlier . steve schneider
Bruce Morris

Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
May 7, 2018 - 11:56pm PT
The degree of seriousness has to do with how badly the calcaneus was fractured. Just a crack? Or totally smashed like an egg shell in many pieces? When they talk about an operation, one wonders whether they pinned the broken heel so it will heal in a fairly normal shape?

There are broken heels and there's a shattered calcaneus.
Gunkie

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
May 8, 2018 - 05:26am PT
hans was doing the upper part of pancake flake when he fell. this section is 5.11c or hard C!. hans was self belaying(on a gri gri i imagine) while his partner cleaned the great roof. he had a small cam in and placed and tested a stopper. he moved onto it and it blew. he said he fell about 20 feet into the flat triangular ledge that guard s this section.


Isn't that the triangular ledge where that loose block used to sit that the German climber pulled off many moons ago (and subsequently went for the big ride)?
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California, now Ireland
May 8, 2018 - 06:38am PT
Heal up Hans. Ed thanks for the ABC link. Lafayette eh? I grew up there.
MikeL

Social climber
Southern Arizona
May 8, 2018 - 07:06am PT
Best wishes, Hans. You're a hero in every way.
WBraun

climber
May 8, 2018 - 08:06am PT
I belayed Bachar on that pancake flake pitch when it was first ever freed.

He ran up the pitch to the triangular ledge like it was nothing and then came to a screeching stop.

He yelled down "Ho Mann" we then knew it was gonna be hard and sketchy, lol.

But he floated it.

Hans .... your injuries are the house of pain.

But you've always been a bad ass, remember the survival of the fittest show, and you'll overcome ....
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
May 8, 2018 - 12:53pm PT
I dropped in on Hans this morning with clean shirts and a book for him to read. His spirits are good, although I'd guess he was in a whole lot more pain than he was letting on. Tough guy. Relentlessly optimistic and determined. He'll get through, I have no doubt, but equally certain is that it ain't gonna be an easy push.

To Bruce's comment above, unfortunately, I think he's dealing with the latter situation. If I remember correctly, his calcaneus is shattered into six pieces. His lower left leg is stabilized with four (?) large pins and two spreader bars and looks like a terminator exoskeleton. His right (which I believe is the jacked heel) is visibly bruised and badly swollen and he has to wait for the swelling to go down before it gets operated on. I think likely in a couple of weeks. It's gonna be a process for old Hans. I think he's looking at three to six months in a wheelchair, depending on how fast he heals.

I posted a few photos on my FB page, so it shouldn't be too hard to find them if you want to check him out. Shouldn't be any access issues as I made them public for his zillion friends to see.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
May 8, 2018 - 02:44pm PT
Is there a hospital where a card can be sent?
I’m old fashioned that way.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
May 8, 2018 - 03:06pm PT
Well, he's kind of bouncing between friends's places with decent wheelchair access right now . . .

If you want to send a card to the address below, I'll make sure he gets it.

2865 Emerald Drive
Walnut Creek, CA 94597

(Same for anyone else, too...)
dave yerian

Trad climber
the parking lot
May 10, 2018 - 11:14am PT
What a blessing Hans didn't hurt himself more and he is still with us. Why is it, today, climbing has become such a competitive sport? In general, speed climbing is a very dangerous way to climb. What are we trying to prove with it?

Maybe this event will change the way people think about trying to push and push the standards to a higher level with the potential of a much greater danger factor.

Always count your blessings and be humble before the rock.

Dave
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
May 10, 2018 - 12:34pm PT
I'd have to check with my daughter (an MD) but having been through the shattered ankle epic with the terminator external fixator and 5 operations, my understanding is that you can blow out a bone BETWEEN joints and heal up fine, no matter how grave the break (given modern techniques, graphs, hardware, etc). But when you blow out the joint (think hinge point), it will never be the same. And arthritis is a certainty - to some degree. I also find it odd that if only his right heel is broken he would have so much swelling and wait time for surgery. But this is all guessing till his injuries are spelled out in specific medical terms. I'm curious because I had them and count Hans as a friend.

The great and fortunate thing is that his spine and head are ok. A stud like Hollywood Hans can adjust to a few cranky ankles. If I did, he can for certain.

AP

Trad climber
Calgary
May 10, 2018 - 01:13pm PT
How are you now John?
snakefoot

climber
Nor Cal
May 10, 2018 - 01:52pm PT
Agree with largo, once the ligaments and other soft tissues of a joint are injured, you're hosed and in for a long recovery. best to break the bone mid shaft...MD

Heal up hans!
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
May 10, 2018 - 05:28pm PT
I'm doing ok but I had a pilon fracture where the joint blew apart and an open fracture tib that shot through my ankle with such force I ended up with a fist sized hole in my shin that had to be filled with a muscle graph from my thigh. Plus a bunch of nerve damage (about 80% numb in my foot).

So there was a lot of soft tissue damage that Hans didn't (I hope) have. Plus an open fracture.

I learned that the biggest hitch to healing was circulation, which gets badly compromised when bones blow apart - which is WAY different from a simple fracture. About 2 years into recovery I started riding my bike a lot and a year later my leg was much better.

My ankle range of motion is poor so I can't run or jump but I hiked up to higher spire and Yoz falls last year and can ride my bike hard for 50 miles so I'm doing well considering. There is always a low grade ache in the ankle but I've gotten to where I can block it out most of the time. Once every few months something shifts around in there or whatever and I can't walk for a few days then it goes away and I'm back to new normal.

I will admit that for the first two years the chronic pain made me consider cutting that bad boy off. Glad I didn't. But recovery in my case took 4 years.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
May 11, 2018 - 03:03pm PT
Phylp—Your card for Hans arrived today. I'll get it over to him ASAP.

I'm sure he'll greatly appreciate it.

Largo—Grim. I knew it had been bad. Not that it had been that bad.
Jeffery Butterfield

climber
Bar Harbor, Maine
May 14, 2018 - 07:43pm PT
It might be a minor blessing that there’s a small delay before Hans’ heel fracture surgery. I know from experience that the post-op reality for that procedure is no picnic; I can’t fathom simultaneously dealing with that kind of pain and the discomfort he must surely already be in from the operations to address his left leg trauma. But then, were talking about Hans Florine here. I wouldn’t have guessed he’d so much as stubbed a toe from the post-accident photos I’ve seen.

Six fragments put Hans in the “severely comminuted calcaneal fracture” club (I’m a member, and like Hans, after an abrupt stop onto a granite ledge). Once he’s home, he’ll want to set up camp on the floor. I discovered it was excruciating to allow my injured foot to drop below my heart for even a few seconds, like when I’d try to get out of bed for a bathroom visit. After the first attempt, we moved the mattress to the floor and I learned to scoot backwards to go anywhere, holding my foot up in the air as I did. Sitting on the floor below the toilet, I’d have to pause to get psyched—like before launching into a scary crux—knowing what kind of pain toll sitting up there was going to extract.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
May 15, 2018 - 02:10pm PT
I basically had to keep my leg elevated for a year. Whenever I'd lower it, it turned bright red and throbbed.

Don't know the actual damage to his joint but that's the real issue.
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Jun 3, 2018 - 11:14am PT
its been a month since hans broke his feet on the nose. two weeks ago he got out of the hospital after getting a bunch of metal put in his feet/legs. he remains positive, is already off the nasty pain meds, but still has a long recovery ahead of him. he continues to couch surf while looking for a more permanent place to stay. its an extra challenge to be doing this in the middle of a divorce(albeit a friendly one. he has two teenage kids, the oldest entering university in the fall. of course he is severely money challenged at this point. his friends have set up a go fund me page to help defray his expenses. If you know hans, or perhaps been inspired by him, then now is a chance to help out one of our tribe in need.
sincereley, Steve Schneider

https://www.gofundme.com/hansflorinemedicalfund
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Jun 3, 2018 - 10:39pm PT
bump for my blonde brother
Delhi Dog

climber
Good Question...
Jun 3, 2018 - 11:08pm PT
What a blessing Hans didn't hurt himself more and he is still with us. Why is it, today, climbing has become such a competitive sport? In general, speed climbing is a very dangerous way to climb. What are we trying to prove with it?

Maybe this event will change the way people think about trying to push and push the standards to a higher level with the potential of a much greater danger factor.

Always count your blessings and be humble before the rock.

-D.Yerian

After the recent events this post came to mind...

Hang in there Hans!
Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
Jun 4, 2018 - 05:53pm PT
I realized that I have been out of touch between all the life milestones. How could I miss this? Healing wishes for Hans. I so enjoyed the celebrity. clImb with you. Recoveries are. not speedy at our ages. But determination still will carry the day.
simply theresa

climber
Yosemite
Jun 4, 2018 - 06:33pm PT
Thanks for posting the Go Fund Me link, Steve. I hadn't heard that there was one until now. Donation made.
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Jun 4, 2018 - 07:31pm PT
external fixator bolted to his leg is a sign that whatever ankle injury Hans had was not minor

No doubt. I hear those things do wonders but are extremely painful.
mountain girl

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Jun 4, 2018 - 08:24pm PT
Heal fast and well, Hans

Ingrid
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jun 4, 2018 - 09:54pm PT
hey there say,shipoopoi...

thank you so much for the update... and the info, for folks...
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Jun 6, 2018 - 10:26pm PT
bump for the guy who taught caldwell and honhold how to climb fast on the nose. hans' go fund me account is at the top of this page. he just found a house to move into so he is not couch surfing anymore. but he is far from getting back to steady work. he could use our help. steve schneider
EdBannister

Mountain climber
13,000 feet
Jun 7, 2018 - 10:45am PT
Think of it this way Hans, you know one of the best anesthesiologists in the country!! : ) best wishes for complete healing..
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Jun 8, 2018 - 08:25am PT
here's a bump with hans' go fund me account. his daughter, my godchild, graduates from high school today. steve schneider

https://www.gofundme.com/hansflorinemedicalfund
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
Jun 9, 2018 - 03:04pm PT
Bump for Hans!
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Jun 13, 2018 - 09:03am PT
here's a shout out for dean rosnau's book promotion tour in the bay area. dean will be at rei concord tonight at 7pm to promote his book. i will try to be there as well. dean has generously offered to donate all of his book selling proceeds from this event to hans recovery/go fund me page(above post), so lets turn out and support our fast, blonde, buddy. steve schneider

dean will also being doing a book promo at rei in san carlos on thursday night at 7 pm, so turn out to buy his book, support hans, and listen to some great resuce stories.
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Jun 13, 2018 - 11:25am PT
Donated to the fund just now.
Get well Hans!
Vlada

Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
Jun 14, 2018 - 06:39am PT
Donated and bump.
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Jun 18, 2018 - 09:47am PT
another bump for my blonde buddy. he has moved into an apartment so is no longer couch surfing, but still can't drive so he is still dependent upon people to get him around. heather and i took a day off work last week, drove to mariposa, and picked up an extra bed we have and moved it down here for hans, so he has a real bed of his own right now. help out if you can, steve schneider


https://www.gofundme.com/hansflorinemedicalfund

Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
Mar 26, 2019 - 08:27pm PT
I see Hans is doing some talks. Sorry to miss the show in Seattle but hope to come upon one soon. Thanks for the info on the book. Still smile when I think about the adventure on the Hulk - one of my favorite climbing days ever. Wishing his spirit and body continue to recover. Come see us in Oregon
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