quick climbing in Vancouver/Squamish

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cali kat

climber
CA
Topic Author's Original Post - May 2, 2018 - 04:25pm PT
Hello! I'll be in Vancouver next month for a few days to attend a wedding. Most of our evenings will be booked with family events, so I'm wondering if there are any areas that allow for quick climbing sessions. We might bring sport climbing gear if it's worth the effort/luggage weight, but definitely leaving the trad rack at home this time. We're considering renting a crash pad for bouldering if we find some good areas, but we're pretty out of bouldering shape these days. Any advice will be much appreciated!
cali kat

climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2018 - 04:44pm PT
Thanks, Frostback! I'll check out that guidebook. Tunnel Point routes look tough... we've been climbing too many 5.easy trad lately to pull on 5.11+ sport.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
May 2, 2018 - 06:33pm PT
We might bring sport climbing gear if it's worth the effort/luggage weight,

If, by "sport climbing gear," you mean a rope and a bunch of draws, then you have boatloads of climbing available to you at Squamish...

...if you just expand your notion of what "sport climbing" is.

The Apron of the Squamish Chief is home to more bolt-protected slab climbs than you will be able to get on in your brief visit. The runouts are a bit longer than what you'll be used to, and 3 or 4 cams won't hurt (and won't bulge out your suitcase), but there is endless entertainment available to you if you have a dozen or so draws.
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 5, 2018 - 11:07am PT


A longshot question likely to bring derision raining down on me.
I see reports of some rain at Squamish over this last week (around June 1, 2018). Has it been climbable? Based on the weather reports, would any locals hazard a guess about the climbability next week. I know, wait a see, but I'm wondering whether to have some visitors postpone their flights. If this seems like a familiar pattern, please let me know. To me climbing next week looks pretty unlikely base on the weather reports. I don't do overhangs.

Thanks
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 20, 2018 - 11:09pm PT
I didn't want to clutter up the homegrown (**nudge nudge wink wink) content of "Squamish Photos and Stories" thread, but still wanted to post a rare for me climbing content. First, "Juneuary" was right-on, so nobody else go there, it rains all the time.

I/we still had a blast. Three people up from California and I from Seattle, all but one 65 or over. The first afternoon we setup camp and went back to Burgers and Fries to dodge or get caught by rain squalls. We got a feeling for the rock on Exit Stage Left, Bilbo Baggins and exciting Wise Crack. We toproped another climb or two in between. Bilbo is soft, Wise is stiff, IMHO. Rain or not, it was fun, and we ended up having it to ourselves!!! Did I mention rain on a Sunday afternoon?

The next day we wandered around some more obscure climbs in upper-east Smoke Bluffs. We did get turned back by a seeping crack or two. Then we went back down to the uber popular Penny Lane area. With rain or threat thereof, the prized climbs were mostly empty. Ad lead Quarryman and Penny Lane both in good style. I couldn't get that one section of Penny Lane clean even on TR, but OMG that's an awesome climb. We watched people lead (none clean) or TR Crime of the Century. Tami and Peter, I bow down!!!!! Funny, but I thought that even people who couldn't get it clean, looked pretty good on it, even though it was obviously desperate difficult.

That night we got a good view of a Barred Owl in the campground. Tony's photo:
It was pretty dark when he took it.

Next day was Klahnie & Cardhu Cracks and Skywalker. Skywalker was pretty wet, I was a tad worked from Pennylane, so only Tom and Ad did that. It started raining pretty hard after they got down from Skywalker.

The next day it poured rain. Ad and Tom bailed back to work in California, and Tony and I went up the gondolas *at Whistler, not Squamish!*.

and one for the geology/dike thread:


Finally before heading back to Seattle and Tony's Osprey monitoring in the Bay Area, we screwed around an empty Burgers and Fries (threat of rain, Thursday). I am way too proud that I lead the Burgers and Fries (the climb). The runout did grab my attention at the top.

We were all big fans of the beer, food and staff at Howe Sound Brewery. On a previous trip we developed an appreciation for the brews at Backcountry Brewing.
I might be able to add more photos later.
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Jun 21, 2018 - 10:29am PT
Good energizing report, Darwin. Nice barred owl.

We probably did not overlap except for a bit of rain, but we went to the Bluffs recently. Robert, in the orange helmet, has been in Ottawa the last year and was glad to get back to Squamish.


Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 9, 2018 - 09:25pm PT

Tony came up with a couple more photos from our trip. Quarryman (Tony's photos Adlai climbing):

and




I can't compete with the stories of Tami, Anders, Ghost, Mighty Hiker(wait are some the same!?), Brennan, Op... and the rest in Squamish Photos and Stories.
Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic
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