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quantum7
Trad climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 26, 2018 - 01:02pm PT
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Have any climbers out there had this surgery done? I recently lost my thumb and partially two fingers on my dominant hand in a climbing accident. The surgeon has suggested a transfer of the big toe to the thumb area as it is the option that results in the best mobility/function of the hand afterwards. Looking to talk to anyone who has had this done to see how it impacted their lives (both climbing and non-climbing related parts of life).
Thanks
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C4/1971
Trad climber
Depends on the day...
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Apr 26, 2018 - 03:23pm PT
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A physician named Ralph Bunke from Stanford pioneered that surgery in the 1970's. It was a miracle for a lot of folks that had lost thumbs for some reason or another.
You never miss your thumb until you don't have it.
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Crazy Bat
Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
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Apr 26, 2018 - 07:14pm PT
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I met a guy who had had it done. They took his middle toe. He was greatful to have a thumb and had full mobility for normal activities. I think he had a little numbness around the base of the digit. I only noticed because it was a little undersized. Loosing a big toe to have a beefy thumb might not be worth it.
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quantum7
Trad climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2018 - 07:53pm PT
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I fell while leading. I was trying to clip a draw and was having trouble reaching. Because I was trying to clip there was a lot of slack out, and when I fell I think my brain thought I was going to hit the ground and so I instinctively reached out and grabbed the rope. I don't believe it was a conscious decision because I know full well not to grab the rope or draws. My thumb was instantly severed by the rope
And my middle and ring fingers were damaged beyond repair . They were amputated below the upper knuckle. And there you have it.
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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Apr 26, 2018 - 10:07pm PT
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God damn quantum7!!!! I will quickly point out I have zero experience in this. Maybe trying to get a hold of Hugh Herr and/or his associates? I believe he does a lot of work in amputees/ prosthetics and maybe can lend you advice. The big toe was not intuitive to me but second...still never heard of this. Yikes!
Good Luck!
S....
Edit: Just googled his name and he's all over the front page.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Apr 26, 2018 - 10:08pm PT
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hey there say, ... mousefromnerced, might chip in and share about
getting onward, without a thumb...
hope you get some good advice here... :)
:( sorry you had the loss, :(
prayers for you to find a 'good trail' with all this 'search for info' ...
:)
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DAN DUANE
climber
SAN FRANCISCO, CA
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Apr 27, 2018 - 06:21am PT
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I once sat next to a fit-looking man at a dinner table who'd had this done. His hand caught my eye, but I just thought, Wow, that guy has an incredibly powerful-looking hand, and a prominent scar along the base of his thumb. As a climber, I think, you get an eye for unusually strong hands and it makes you curious: climber? carpenter? After we'd been talking for a while, I asked if he worked with hands or what. He asked what I meant. I said, "Oh, I don't know. Your hands look like they've done some work, that's all." He pointed to his foot. He was wearing Teva sandals and even then I had to look for a moment to figure out what I was supposed to see. His other four toes had rearranged themselves and grown stronger in a way that made the absence of the big toe unnoticeable until I really looked.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 27, 2018 - 09:59am PT
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One of the MScs in my geology department had this done. His new "thumb" looked a little weird but it was the kind of thing you didn't really notice until he told you about it. He could swing a rock hammer and hold a coffee cup in that hand, he didn't climb though so I have no idea if it will get you up a 5.14 or not.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Apr 27, 2018 - 03:20pm PT
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The Toe Off, made for those who have lost a toe, is is a very effective orthotic that could make your transition much easier. It may even be something that you continue to use as you find healing moving forward. You can purchase one at Allardusa.com
Wishing you the best of luck as you find healing and make your way back to climbing. I contracted Paralytic Polio when I was 9 months old, and have faced many big challenges additionally, but am planning my 40th big wall ascent soon.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Apr 27, 2018 - 11:48pm PT
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the wonders of modern science. werner say all he do about the science-dog-g0d but, yes, I'd trade a(ny) toe for a thumb.
thanks for sharing your story Q7. that hurts
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quantum7
Trad climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2018 - 10:46am PT
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Thanks everyone. This is a huge challenge for me. Climbing and also my job are both out of the question right now. As far as the transfer goes, most often the big toe is used because it is most like the thumb and also will give the best mobility and function. Strangely enough, it sort of morphs into what looks like a thumb over the course of several years, where the other toes remain looking like toes. Re: balance, I was told by the surgeons that the metatarsals are key for balance and those would remain intact.
I am of course exploring other options because I don't really want to trade one body part for another. The choices are limited though - a cosmetic prosthetic has almost no value in terms of function. There are some mechanical type thumbs that could help. The thumb is responsible for 50% of a hand's function and I am realizing that truth very quickly. There are so many basic things I cannot do now. Doesn't help being right hand dominant.
I did contact Hugh Herr a week or so ago, but havent heard back. Maybe in a few years I'll just 3D print a damn thumb.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Apr 28, 2018 - 11:33am PT
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Wow, what a thing, thanks for telling us about it. Please bump this thread now and then as you progress in figuring this out, it's super interesting. I hope for nothing but the best outcome for you whatever route you go.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Apr 28, 2018 - 03:11pm PT
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hey there say, quantum7...
wow, as to this quote:
The thumb is responsible for 50% of a hand's function and I am realizing that truth very quickly.
one of my older friends, wrenched her neck so back, that she lost use of
a large part of her hand... by the time she got it fixed, it is still not
too good... and-- she can't use her thumb at all, :O
i am going to share this with her, as 'general interest stuff to know' ...
and yep, she is seeing that, right now... :(
*good to know the rest of her hand is getting a bit better... i just wish she would do therapy, :(
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Apr 28, 2018 - 04:20pm PT
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Wow- sorry you had such a terrible accident.
Personally- I'd do it. I don't know how long the recovery is, but I need my hands to make a living on top of climbing- so the decision to swap body parts to keep something resembling normal functionality would be a no-brainer. I've climbed with frost bite victims who lost big toes and could still climb, so it's a skill that can be learned.
...that or I'd go full metal bird claw.
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strawberry rhubarb
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Apr 30, 2018 - 09:47pm PT
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Hi Quantum7. So much respect to you for telling your story on this forum and for getting busy with finding solutions to this huge challenge. I wanted to offer a connection for you. In November I did a Physio student placement at the Glenrose Rehab Hospital (Edmonton) and I worked with a woman who has been running pediatric limb difference clinics for many years. She has seen all the different prosthetic and surgical options out there for limb loss and limb differences. She and also works with a team of orthopedic surgeons, physiatrists, OT's, and other PT's and follows the patients every year until they no longer need care. Im sure she would be willing to chat with you about the different options and what she's seen for outcomes. Does this interest you?
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quantum7
Trad climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2018 - 07:01pm PT
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Thought I would bump this post as I am struggling with my decision to amputate my toe.
Wondering if there is anyone who has had a big toe amputation and if so, how did it affect your gait, balance, and of course your climbing.
Any help is appreciated. I hate not having a thumb but I still don't know if I can take my toe off to replace it.
Thanks
Adrienne
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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I have a friend who had toe to thumb surgery.
Back in the 1970s we were on the West Rib of Denali, he had a bad fall and we couldn't rescue him for a long time. (Two others died.) He lost all of his fingers and toes to frostbite except one index finger and one great toe.
I think for him, the decision to have the surgery was easy.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Hey Adrienne,
No lie, one of my good friends had this exact surgery done and has lived a very normal and athletic life. His was a wake-boarding accident with the ski rope momentarilty going slack, looping around his thumb, then tightening instantly.....snipping his thumb off at the base.
He adapted quickly after the surgery....now nearly twenty years ago. He has no balance issues (the big toe doesnt do all that much in walking actually) walks barefoot all the time and still plays sports, including waterpolo. He jokes about his "thumb" all the time when asked and it actually is surprisingly un-noticeable. He has a crushing handshake and a great testimony about the whole thing.
I'd put you in touch with him if you're interested. I'd say go for it without a hesitation man, but you should talk to him!
Scott
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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micronut..... We never interact? Greased,by,monkey,I,Be? oh,well, to bad,for,me, but you ARE A HERO!
(the system here hasn't worked for evah(ekat) So hows a person to reach out to you?)
I love you guyz & the few Galz who we do keep:=)
as we grow apart it is a good thing when the experts here weigh in
Thank You All!
The same thread/OP @ MntProj, where contact / communication can be made,
http://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/114562022/big-toe-amputation
YEEHA!a RARE POST FROM, altelis
AND YET ANOTHER HERO EMERGES
V V V V V
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