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way
climber
SF Bay Area
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 23, 2018 - 01:44pm PT
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It's been a while since I last posted on supertaco, After 20 years of climbing, Realizing time is running out, recently I got a bit more motivated and wanted to break into valley 5.11s. After self-analysis, I identified my chronically bad ankles (from many injuries) are really a major factor preventing me from being more efficient in thin cracks.
Basically, my ankle now is much less flexible to stay in that dropped-heel smear position when it comes to thin crack. And whenever I force it, It's much more strenuous and painful comparing to what I remember 10 years ago.
So, the question is what kind of workout/drill can I do to keep that ankle flexible and gain the range of motion for twisting inward with a dropped heel? I tried many standard exercises from my many post-injury physical therapy programs, but none of them seems to really work for this particular position, And it make thin cracks much harder for me.
Thanks in advance and climb on!
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