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Squirrel Murphy
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 22, 2018 - 06:47pm PT
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I met Roadie back in 98 or 99. Indian Creek camping with a buddy, this guy comes up to our camp (can't remember which place) and askes us what we're climbing for the day. We had the old Marchochini book (sp) and he told us about the Cat Wall.
We were fumbling beginner climbers but he assured us that there were 5.10's up there we could climb of better quality. Certainly, this guy knew his sh#t we thought, he just eluded the desert mystique and lived the climbing life of which we'd never met before.
We ended up at Wild Cat and he borrowed come cams and fired in what was one of the most eloquent sends I've seen. He said " yeah, I've done that one before a few times " very humble. And he began to educate us on how to climb that size splitter.
Over the years I heard stories of this guy... Steve Seats not knowing who he was. Kinda like when I met Stanley. I spent a day foraging around the valley with him only to ask him in the end " are you Sean Leary "
"Yeah" he replied. As if BFD.
And with Roadie were these tales of soloing Northern Lights and the Alaskan Highway in Squamish. And his tower list of >100 desert towers.... is impressive so say so little
Over the years we crossed paths again and again between California and Moab. Every time getting to know each other a little more. I learned he wrote stories for climbing and he was a good chess player on those rest days from climbing.
Most of all in what little time or words I knew about Steve was that he was a genuine and sincere individual. Even if you didn't climb 5.12 he would belay you on your 5.10 or 5.11 project.
Recently he bumped his thread. I never read it before until the last 1-2 days. I remember when she died on Elbow Vices. I never knew it was because of soloing. But there a few other things Steve says in the last few paragraphs that I guess just ring even louder today than they might have had I read it all those years ago.
So I guess Steve you might learn something from others here on this forum which you left some time ago for whatever path you walked over these years.
But there are people you have crossed paths with in life that you; Steve "Roadie" Seats have made a difference to.
My life has been richer sharing experiences with you in the deserts of California and Utah, Still today I remember and it makes me smile, I miss that one little ray of sunshine that we shared one afternoon on Wild Cat.
Thank you, Steve. Please don't stop writing and telling stories because that's also another aspect of time hanging with you that I miss.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 23, 2018 - 11:50pm PT
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Would you buy a us d truck from him?😎
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Apr 24, 2018 - 07:08am PT
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Some of his prose here on Supertopo over the years has been some of the best and most raw climbing writing around. I had recently been wondering why he fell away from the Taco and was stoked to see an old story of his surface in the thread list. I hope this thread brings him back to the campfire. Seems like a stoked and talented dude.
Scott
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Roadie
Trad climber
Bishop, Ca
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Apr 27, 2018 - 01:33pm PT
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Thank you for the kind words SM,
I think I remember that day. We all seemed to be climbing reasonably well and more importantly having a good time.
So after reading the replies to this and the Lizz thing it seems folks are wondering where I went.
I haven't been a climber much in the past two years. A bad fall resulted in a badly broken foot and the few times I've been out since have been quite painful. In all honestly I was also running out of things I was truly psyched to climb as well. Everything was beginning to feel like a fitness barometer.
I live in Moab now, again, and swim a mile or two most days. When I'm not doing that I am exploring slot canyons in the middle of nowhere. Usually alone. Occasionally lost.
Ironically ,as you were posting this I was having a day that was slightly harder than any day I have ever had. A 100ft swim through icy water, fully clothed with a rope and pack led to a 60ft 5.11 O/W chimney free solo (wet, cold, in sneekers, with a soggy rope and dripping pack). The downclimb was only 5.9 but I was pretty bloody by then. Things only got worse when I got stuck farther down canyon(chest and pelvis) for five minutes. The whole time thinking, "This is going to be a really shitty way to die."
I spent the next day sequestered amongst some sand dunes, eating painkillers, regrouping psychologically and writing. Yes, I do still write but mostly political stuff these days. Given the times it just feels much more important. And rewarding.
But given all the cry's for more more more!!! I have to admit I am moved and motivated. I have something fermenting in the backwaters of my brain so give me a few days to get it right and you all can have it.
Again, thanks for the kind words, stay strong, stay true,
Steve Seats.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 27, 2018 - 03:03pm PT
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Steve is the real deal....looking forward to running into him, it’s been quite awhile.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Apr 27, 2018 - 03:09pm PT
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Ironically ,as you were posting this I was having a day that was slightly harder than any day I have ever had. A 100ft swim through icy water, fully clothed with a rope and pack led to a 60ft 5.11 O/W chimney free solo (wet, cold, in sneekers, with a soggy rope and dripping pack). The downclimb was only 5.9 but I was pretty bloody by then. Things only got worse when I got stuck farther down canyon(chest and pelvis) for five minutes. The whole time thinking, "This is going to be a really shitty way to die."
Sounds more worthy than any political blather I've ever read. Bring on the full story!
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Squirrel Murphy
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2018 - 04:53pm PT
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Steve,
What coffee shops do you frequent there in Moab?
And yeah Jim, Steve is the real deal. And just that adventure alone is a story I'd love to hear. Maybe I can hear it in person over coffee....
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nah000
climber
now/here
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Apr 28, 2018 - 05:41pm PT
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yup... a +1000 for new material.
have always appreciated a "Roadie" story...
have found them to at times be challenging in their directness while not falling into the trap of provocative sensationalism...
a tricky line to walk with writing.
thanks mr. seats.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Apr 28, 2018 - 08:01pm PT
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I like the article that he wrote for Gripped. He was good at details of climbing experiences that are often overlooked. And it was a testament to a tough mind to solo Alaska Highway, even if he needed a cigarette break.
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L
climber
A place with cats...lots and lots of cats
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Apr 30, 2018 - 05:34pm PT
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Looks like I'm one of your groupies now, Roadie.
ST needs you! :-)
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Roadie
Trad climber
Bishop, Ca
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Hey Tami! thanks. Katie and I drive each other nuts. Is Dave still at the helm of Gripped? The money isn't as good but I always liked working with him. A truly great editor.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Never met ya Roadie, but if that John Muir Hilton story is any insight on you, two thumbs up!
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