Tollhouse guide to borrow?

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David Knopp

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 14, 2018 - 05:07pm PT
Anyone between SF and Fresno have a guide me and Hellroaring could borrow? From the 24th to the the 27th? Micronut? Barry?
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
Apr 16, 2018 - 08:55am PT
You're welcome to borrow mine if you can't get micro or barry

Or if you wanted to buy one, Cressmans has copies.
David Knopp

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2018 - 10:13am PT
Thank you Mr. Ross!! Apparently hell roaring bought a copy somewhere... We may be up there in 10 days... besides the traverse any must do climbs?
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
Apr 16, 2018 - 10:50am PT
No problem!
Elephant Walk, 5.7
Wandering Taoist, 5.9 (stout for the grade, first pitch just a few moves is crux pitch)
Hang Em High, 5.8 (could be 5.9, one or two crux moves)
Free and Easy, 5.7
Think Nothing of It,10a.

These are just off the top of my head, I'm sure I'm forgetting some other goodies.

Desperado is a very good single pitch 5.9 with a not so good approach pitch, but can be rapped into.

ORAU is a single pitch 5.10c that starts on the same ledge as desperado.

Art Baker Memorial is a great 2nd pitch w a chossy approach pitch.

Platinum Plus on the cap rocks, while short, is fantastic for the jams and the location.

Hope it's a fun trip!
David Knopp

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2018 - 11:02am PT
thanks again-do you recommend camping near the base, or is there somewhere else nearby that is nicer?
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
Apr 16, 2018 - 11:09am PT
You're welcome, hope they're good suggestions lol.

I'm not near the book so don't know how the approach is described but if you camp at the top of the descent trail that's probably your best camping spot, or the very top of the dome at the cap rocks (10 min hike further). If you have 4X4 you can drive to each of these spots and car camp.
Climberdude

Trad climber
Clovis, CA
Apr 16, 2018 - 11:10am PT
I think you mean camping at or near the top as the base is not really accessible for camping. To drive up you will need a high clearance 4WD, but if not you can walk up about 1/4 mile from a parking spot with your camping gear. If there has been rain in the last five days, do not try driving up even with a 4WD.

I tend to be careful about having stuff out when parking and camping in all locations except for the very top. In years past there was a local who would take stuff to sell. I understand from other locals that he had a habit to support. I have not heard of any recent incidents, but I do not take chances.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Apr 16, 2018 - 11:39am PT
Glad to mail you my copy ahead of time in the mail if you want. Also, feel free to call or text me with any questions. Maybe I will meet you guys up there and show you around one day during your stay!

Scott
(559)nine-seven-4-2-6-6-two
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Apr 16, 2018 - 11:47am PT
Desperado 5.9
Desperado 5.9
Credit: micronut


Balls 5.9R
Balls 5.9R
Credit: micronut


The Upper Traverse (not Tollhouse Traverse) 5.6-7R
The Upper Traverse (not Tollhouse Traverse) 5.6-7R
Credit: micronut

Nuts and Bolts 5.7  Some runout parts but really nice climbing on the ...
Nuts and Bolts 5.7 Some runout parts but really nice climbing on the left side of the dome.
Credit: micronut

My Recommendations for routes would be as follows from easiest to harder/more runout.

1. Tollhouse Traverse 5.5 (but feels 5.6d at the crux)

2. Free and Easy 5.7
3-4 really nice pitches. First couple pitches have some loose lakes but it gets climbed regularly.

3. Elephant Walk 5.7
Arguably better climbing than both of the above. The first pitch feels sustained for the grade for the first 25 feet but protects well. The second pitch feels a bit runout but the climbing is really nice 5.7 slab and will get you used to the Tollhouse type of climbing.

4. Desperado. 5.9
Adventurous first gully/Chimney pitch. Second pitch ramp is kinda cool. The two pitches above are stout and well protected at cruxes but are heads up 5.9.

5. Balls 5.9R
If you're up for 5.8 runout, Balls is really a nice long line right up the proudest part of the main face.

6. Hang Em High 5.7
I haven't done this route but it gets rave reviews. The final pitch is sparse on bolts but gets really easy when it gets runout. I've heard its well protected at the hard parts and runout at the easy stuff.






DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 16, 2018 - 12:19pm PT
I agree with the recommendations. What dates will you be up there. Maybe some of us locals will come say hi.
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
Apr 16, 2018 - 12:28pm PT
Hmm...now I'm second guessing myself.... I've always done desperado in one pitch but think it's actually two.... and I thought hang em high was a 5.8 but whatever it is it's a good climb. Take all my suggestions as ballparkish I'm sure the others here can give you much better beta
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 16, 2018 - 02:12pm PT
https://web.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/toll/index.htm
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