Tollhouse guide to borrow?

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David Knopp

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 14, 2018 - 05:07pm PT
Anyone between SF and Fresno have a guide me and Hellroaring could borrow? From the 24th to the the 27th? Micronut? Barry?
David Knopp

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2018 - 10:13am PT
Thank you Mr. Ross!! Apparently hell roaring bought a copy somewhere... We may be up there in 10 days... besides the traverse any must do climbs?
David Knopp

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2018 - 11:02am PT
thanks again-do you recommend camping near the base, or is there somewhere else nearby that is nicer?
Climberdude

Trad climber
Clovis, CA
Apr 16, 2018 - 11:10am PT
I think you mean camping at or near the top as the base is not really accessible for camping. To drive up you will need a high clearance 4WD, but if not you can walk up about 1/4 mile from a parking spot with your camping gear. If there has been rain in the last five days, do not try driving up even with a 4WD.

I tend to be careful about having stuff out when parking and camping in all locations except for the very top. In years past there was a local who would take stuff to sell. I understand from other locals that he had a habit to support. I have not heard of any recent incidents, but I do not take chances.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Apr 16, 2018 - 11:39am PT
Glad to mail you my copy ahead of time in the mail if you want. Also, feel free to call or text me with any questions. Maybe I will meet you guys up there and show you around one day during your stay!

Scott
(559)nine-seven-4-2-6-6-two
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Apr 16, 2018 - 11:47am PT






My Recommendations for routes would be as follows from easiest to harder/more runout.

1. Tollhouse Traverse 5.5 (but feels 5.6d at the crux)

2. Free and Easy 5.7
3-4 really nice pitches. First couple pitches have some loose lakes but it gets climbed regularly.

3. Elephant Walk 5.7
Arguably better climbing than both of the above. The first pitch feels sustained for the grade for the first 25 feet but protects well. The second pitch feels a bit runout but the climbing is really nice 5.7 slab and will get you used to the Tollhouse type of climbing.

4. Desperado. 5.9
Adventurous first gully/Chimney pitch. Second pitch ramp is kinda cool. The two pitches above are stout and well protected at cruxes but are heads up 5.9.

5. Balls 5.9R
If you're up for 5.8 runout, Balls is really a nice long line right up the proudest part of the main face.

6. Hang Em High 5.7
I haven't done this route but it gets rave reviews. The final pitch is sparse on bolts but gets really easy when it gets runout. I've heard its well protected at the hard parts and runout at the easy stuff.






DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 16, 2018 - 12:19pm PT
I agree with the recommendations. What dates will you be up there. Maybe some of us locals will come say hi.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 16, 2018 - 02:12pm PT
https://web.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/toll/index.htm
David Knopp

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2018 - 11:18am PT
thanks all for your help, we are going to Pinnacles instead, it'll be 10 degrees cooler and we can seek the shade... Soon, maybe in the fall, we'll get up there. We'll have our own guide by then.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Apr 23, 2018 - 01:21pm PT
Side track, any of y'all borrow my tollhouse guide and still have it? I can't find mine :(
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