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Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
Cragcloud
Trad climber
Denmark
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 18, 2018 - 06:05am PT
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Hi all
I recently did some big wall climbing in Italy near Arco. We did the Transylvania (UIAA VI+). 1.100 meters and 22 pitches in two days. Slept on a ledge in our bivy bags. Any of you been to Arco?
I made a short video about the climb. Check it out.
[youtube=https://youtu.be/3tYzhS05yMk]
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Mar 18, 2018 - 06:32am PT
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Looks pretty fun!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Mar 18, 2018 - 07:29am PT
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hey there say, cragcloud... wow, thank you so much for sharing this...
will go see it soon, as i can...
need to go to sleep now... been working, most of the night...
looking forward to it, though...
thanks!!! (the video, as well as the sleep) ;)
:)
sounds like it will be really neat!!
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Cragcloud
Trad climber
Denmark
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2018 - 03:36am PT
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Thank you very much, guys!! :) The Arco area is indeed a great valley to visit in Italy. Being based in Europe climbing your crags in the US is not something that I come by. but, there are plenty of great places in Europe too.
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couchmaster
climber
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Mar 20, 2018 - 05:31am PT
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That looks so awesome. Except for the loose rock:-) Thanks for sharing!!
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Mar 20, 2018 - 10:36am PT
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Looks very different from the routes I've done in Arco. I've been a couple times to escape bad weather in the Dolomites. Did routes on Laghel, Monte Colt, Mandrea, Pian dela Paia and Colidri, all super compact limestone and great routes.
Is Laghel open nowadays?
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climby
Sport climber
Munich, Germany
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Mar 21, 2018 - 02:03am PT
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very nice climb, well done, the route was opened by my friend Florin, when you have more daylight like in autumn, you can do it in one day, we did it in 10 hours (I was second the whole route, Florin leading all the pitches !). Here the topo http://www.bergsteigen.com/klettern/trentino-suedtirol/gardasee-berge/transylvania-arco
He opened also another long climb in Austria (where I also helped), it's a little easier http://www.bergsteigen.com/klettern/tirol/wetterstein-gebirge-und-mieminger-kette/corona
For us in south Germany, Arco is the multipitch PARADISE !!!, you have everything from 2-3 pitches until this kind of long routes (about 520 routes).
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Cragcloud
Trad climber
Denmark
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2018 - 08:12am PT
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@D2R2: We didn't use Daisy Chains, and yeah, it is all free climbing. You cannot aid climb it.
The route is very different from what we did on the trip. Very crimpy and a lot of loose rock. Very few places to place protection between the bolts that were very far apart. At a 60 meter pitch I led I met 4 bolts, and only a few places to place gear.
We also did:
Moonbears (5c): https://youtu.be/Yc27aLR1IOc
Primi Sogni (6a): https://youtu.be/I7sSUccRNa8
I've made a couple of videos on them as well. Check them out..with less relaxed music ;)
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