Video: Big wall climbing in Italy

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic
Cragcloud

Trad climber
Denmark
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 18, 2018 - 06:05am PT
Hi all

I recently did some big wall climbing in Italy near Arco. We did the Transylvania (UIAA VI+). 1.100 meters and 22 pitches in two days. Slept on a ledge in our bivy bags. Any of you been to Arco?

I made a short video about the climb. Check it out.

[youtube=https://youtu.be/3tYzhS05yMk]
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Mar 18, 2018 - 06:32am PT
Looks pretty fun!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Mar 18, 2018 - 06:52am PT
Thanks for that relaxing and well-done work.
Might as well trot out some more of it.
It's too good to miss.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=cragcloud
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Mar 18, 2018 - 07:29am PT
hey there say, cragcloud... wow, thank you so much for sharing this...

will go see it soon, as i can...

need to go to sleep now... been working, most of the night...
looking forward to it, though...

thanks!!! (the video, as well as the sleep) ;)


:)


sounds like it will be really neat!!
Cragcloud

Trad climber
Denmark
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2018 - 03:36am PT
Thank you very much, guys!! :) The Arco area is indeed a great valley to visit in Italy. Being based in Europe climbing your crags in the US is not something that I come by. but, there are plenty of great places in Europe too.
couchmaster

climber
Mar 20, 2018 - 05:31am PT


That looks so awesome. Except for the loose rock:-) Thanks for sharing!!
ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
Mar 20, 2018 - 10:36am PT
Looks very different from the routes I've done in Arco. I've been a couple times to escape bad weather in the Dolomites. Did routes on Laghel, Monte Colt, Mandrea, Pian dela Paia and Colidri, all super compact limestone and great routes.

Is Laghel open nowadays?
climby

Sport climber
Munich, Germany
Mar 21, 2018 - 02:03am PT
very nice climb, well done, the route was opened by my friend Florin, when you have more daylight like in autumn, you can do it in one day, we did it in 10 hours (I was second the whole route, Florin leading all the pitches !). Here the topo http://www.bergsteigen.com/klettern/trentino-suedtirol/gardasee-berge/transylvania-arco
He opened also another long climb in Austria (where I also helped), it's a little easier http://www.bergsteigen.com/klettern/tirol/wetterstein-gebirge-und-mieminger-kette/corona
For us in south Germany, Arco is the multipitch PARADISE !!!, you have everything from 2-3 pitches until this kind of long routes (about 520 routes).
Cragcloud

Trad climber
Denmark
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2018 - 08:12am PT
@D2R2: We didn't use Daisy Chains, and yeah, it is all free climbing. You cannot aid climb it.

The route is very different from what we did on the trip. Very crimpy and a lot of loose rock. Very few places to place protection between the bolts that were very far apart. At a 60 meter pitch I led I met 4 bolts, and only a few places to place gear.

We also did:
Moonbears (5c): https://youtu.be/Yc27aLR1IOc
Primi Sogni (6a): https://youtu.be/I7sSUccRNa8

I've made a couple of videos on them as well. Check them out..with less relaxed music ;)
Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta