Guidebook recommendation for Cochise multipitch moderates?

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jsb

Trad climber
Bay area
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 13, 2018 - 01:07pm PT
Hey folks, quick question...

Heading to Cochise for the first time this April for about 3 days. Looking to climb some of the multi-pitch moderates.

Anybody know what the right guidebook would be for this purpose? Got any favorite routes to recommend? Favorite places to camp?

Thanks in advance!
 Justin

Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Mar 13, 2018 - 01:14pm PT
For 3 days just use the stuff on Mountain Project.

What is moderate these days???
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Mar 13, 2018 - 01:25pm PT
What is moderate these days???

Anything up to 12a as far as I can tell...
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Mar 13, 2018 - 01:28pm PT
You need to do more research about the area rather than asking others to provide that for you. Cochise is a great place, but your trip will be that much better if you find out a little about the place and then see what others have to say.
jgfox

Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
Mar 13, 2018 - 01:32pm PT
http://www.cochiseclimbing.com/

That guidebook is the latest up to date book. The West Stronghold isn't well documented in it because only a small group of locals climb out there and they don't share beta. Plenty of stuff in the East Stronghold for you.

Have fun and enjoy your stay in Southern Arizona!
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Mar 13, 2018 - 01:43pm PT
Alternatively, check out Geir Hundal's topos. There are enough free topos to fill a 3 day visit, but it's worth throwing him a bone for his work and either pay for the $9 digital download or a hard copy. Geir's a great guy and his research is meticulous. He's made a project of repeating the hardest routes on the Rockfellow domes, many of which are second ascents.

http://www.toofasttopos.com/
bchains

Trad climber
Bay Area, CA
Mar 13, 2018 - 05:28pm PT
Be sure to add 0.15 to every grade at Cocheese.
Scott McNamara

climber
Tucson, Arizona
Mar 13, 2018 - 06:10pm PT
Here is my 2.

On the east side, I believe Rockfellow and Cochise Dome are now closed for birds.

As I see it, your best bet for a three (3) day trip is staying on the west side---otherwise, hunting for climbs and humping gear will eat up too much of your time.

Camp at the parking area for Sheepshead. It is free. No water.

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105738025/sheepshead-area-southwest

I am guessing, by way of moderate we are talking:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105861181/ewephoria

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105928187/mystery-of-the-desert

The grades, on the newer routes, are probably about right or slightly conservative. The much older, mostly trad routes are another matter entirely.

For multi-pitch, pay very close attention to where the route is located on the formation. At very least: take the route description on the climb, a wind jacket, a stocking cap, gloves, pocket knife, headlamp and perhaps a second rope.

The Beanfest is there March 24.

Have fun!
jsb

Trad climber
Bay area
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2018 - 11:38pm PT
Awesome. Thanks to all for the advice.

Scott, your post is right on the money... exactly the kind of advice I was hoping for. We'll be there mid-April. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

Thanks, again.

 Justin
Portland area

jsb

Trad climber
Portland
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2018 - 12:07pm PT
Cochise rocks. As does Tanya Bok's guidebook. I ended up picking up a copy, and it turned what would have otherwise been a bumpy trip into a smooth & excellent one.

Some photos...


Credit: jsb

Credit: jsb

Credit: jsb

Credit: jsb

Credit: jsb

Credit: jsb

Credit: jsb

Credit: jsb

Credit: jsb

Credit: jsb

Credit: jsb

Credit: jsb

Credit: jsb

Credit: jsb


splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Apr 30, 2018 - 01:07pm PT
nice pics. But.....what did you climb? What do YOU recommend? :)
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Apr 30, 2018 - 01:29pm PT
Nice! To me, Cochise is one of those places where some research ahead of time pays off in spades. Just too complex and remote, which is great, as long as you know where you're going.

It's been a while, but one of those looks to be Moby Dick?
jsb

Trad climber
Portland
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2018 - 02:13pm PT
Can't recommend Cochise enough. (And same goes for Tanya's guidebook.) Imagine Joshua-Tree-quality cracks & slabs... but with 600ft climbs instead of 60ft.

If you love long approaches, heady but generally safe runouts, beautiful summits, and low-key camping... then this is your place. Especially if you are looking for somewhere to go in the winter when the rest of the US is too cold and wet.

Maybe we just got lucky with the crowds... but we spent 3 days climbing & camping without hardly seeing another soul. And in perfect temperatures of 65-75F and sunny. (It was mid-April.)

We had 2.5 days to spend in the area, so we stayed totally on the West side due to time constraints and b/c of the bird closures affecting the east side in the spring-time. And yes, there is tons of dispersed free camping everywhere... bring a trowel to dig holes & a garbage bag to pack out TP.

We did 3 climbs, 1 per day:
Four Course Meal, 5.7, 4 pitches
Moby Dick, 5.8, 5 pitches
Ewephoria, 5.8, 5 pitches

All 3 were fun adventures... especially for a cubicle-puke like myself. Some future winter I'd love to go back and climb some of the harder stuff around Sheepshead (Peacemaker, TCTTTD, Absinthe of Mallet, Mystery of the Desert, etc.). I also hope to visit the East side sometime when the bird closures aren't in effect.

If you are at all interested, go! Even with minimal planning of 1) plane ticket, 2) rental car, 3) Tanya's guidebooks... you should be all set. You can work out all the other details while you're on the airplane.

Editing to add 1 more thing:
There are not a whole lot of "easy" climbs here. So my recommendation would be to be decently solid on yosemite 5.9/5.10- before going.





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