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Messages 1 - 181 of total 181 in this topic
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Mar 8, 2018 - 06:44pm PT
Consider mine crossed and toes as well. Good vibes on their way.
Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Mar 8, 2018 - 07:36pm PT
Hopefully they hunkered down somewhere and are just off in a direction unexpected, and soon will have word they are safe.
nah000

climber
now/here
Mar 8, 2018 - 07:51pm PT
dropped off on sunday. topped out on monday.

haven’t made it back to skiis at base by thursday.

really wish there was more a person could do besides just hope for these guys.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 8, 2018 - 09:32pm PT
Not too gnarly, by Alaskan standards.
F

climber
away from the ground
Mar 8, 2018 - 09:51pm PT
Happy-
It’s unlikely a hunker scenario.
Reilly-
I’m curious which route on which tower they did, and how you are familiar with the descent from it. Can you fill us in on details of the descent from the route they climbed? V threads or fixed anchors from previous parties?

Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 8, 2018 - 10:12pm PT
Dunno, but any descent off the towers isn’t bad if you have the gear to leave.
Obviously, the weather will have the last word. Best wishes.
F

climber
away from the ground
Mar 8, 2018 - 10:32pm PT



Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA

Mar 8, 2018 - 10:12pm PT
Dunno

I bet.


I was skiing with a friend of Ryan’s today, he got a message about it.
All he had to say was “That sounds really bad.”

nah000

climber
now/here
Mar 8, 2018 - 10:39pm PT
did some googling and based on the photo leclerc posted on monday i suspect they summited the main tower.

leclerc says they are looking towards mt. fairweather [so west] and there is a very recognizable notch in the descending ridge at the far left of the image. looking at images of the whole formation it seems certain that the notch is the same one that can be seen along the ridge descending from the west summit. there appear to be two peaks lower than they are at in the image and their formations seem to be similar to the “west” and “midget” towers that are to the west of the “main” tower. i don’t know the formation well enough to be certain and images from as radically different perspectives as the ones i’m looking at can be deceiving, but i’m about 75% sure that the summit of the “main” tower is where that image on leclerc’s instagram was taken from.

assuming all of this is correct, according to mountain project it would appear the mountaineer’s route is the most common descent from the main tower and consists of a few fifth class steps with the remaining being mostly fourth class terrain [but all of that would be in summer, so winter would be a different animal assuming they did go down that way]. mp puts that route at 1200’ long.
Braunini

Big Wall climber
cupertino
Mar 8, 2018 - 10:44pm PT
Coast Guard is out looking but the weather isn't great. Winter storm advisory the next couple days.
F

climber
away from the ground
Mar 8, 2018 - 10:49pm PT
Thanks Nahoo. It’s always nice to have an informed opinion rather than a know it all remark.
Maybe John K. can give beta on the descent. I know he’s climbed out there a bunch. I’m sure he knows Ryan also.
nah000

climber
now/here
Mar 8, 2018 - 10:58pm PT
also ironically enough Ryan Johnson posted a tr on st from his and his partner’s ffa of the south buttress of the main tower back in 2011.

on that occasion they descended the mountaineer’s route, so Johnson, at least, would already be familiar with that descent...
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 8, 2018 - 11:11pm PT
I won't sleep well tonight. Worrying about these guys and hoping for the best outcome.
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Mar 8, 2018 - 11:19pm PT
Thanks for all your searching and piecing info together, nah000. Am thinking about these guys a lot tonight and, as Tami mentioned, their worried families.

Below is a summer photo of the lower descent route, posted by Gabe Hayden on Mtn Project.

See https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/111623440 for the remainder of the W Ridge.

Hoser

climber
Vancouver,Rome
Mar 9, 2018 - 06:50am PT
whos reporting seeing their ski's still at the base?

https://dps.alaska.gov/dailydispatch/Home/Display?dateReceived=3/8/2018%2012:00:00%20AM
High Fructose Corn Spirit

Gym climber
Mar 9, 2018 - 08:06am PT
treez, have you yourself been up these Towers?
High Fructose Corn Spirit

Gym climber
Mar 9, 2018 - 08:48am PT
Treez, thanks for the clarification and your insights.

Hoping for a miracle for your friends, your brothers.

seano

Mountain climber
none
Mar 9, 2018 - 08:55am PT
Hoping for the best. Leclerc is young and a real inspiration. He has always played a high-risk game, though.
Matt's

climber
Mar 9, 2018 - 10:09am PT
man, this breaks my heart. Marc-andre was really inspiring to me. Met him a few times in squamish and yosemite. As I was aid climbing up leaning tower, he and his partner passed free-climbing the route. They had a boombox with them. That moment was instrumental in me realizing that aid-climbing was stupid. Watching marc-andre climb was beautiful. Really hope that he and his friend are alive...
supafly

Trad climber
vancouver, bc
Mar 9, 2018 - 10:14am PT
Is there a current rescue underway or is it snowing too heavily right now?

Or is it just wait and see, and if the worst is true, recover in the spring? :(
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Mar 9, 2018 - 11:21am PT

Let's hope for the best here.
aspendougy

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Mar 9, 2018 - 02:37pm PT
"Maselko said it’s not uncommon for climbers at the Towers to not have a SAT phone with them, as there’s actually cellphone reception at certain places on the Towers.That’s one of the interesting things about the Towers,” Maselko said, “is you’re in cell range of town and in visual distance of town, but you are very much on your own.”

If their cell phones ran out of juice, they could be hunkered down somewhere, some sort of protected overhang or cave-like place. If they are well dressed, and not injured, they could be hunkered down for some time this way, and still be OK. Let us hope and pray so.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Mar 9, 2018 - 03:01pm PT
They were going in to do an FA on the north face of the central tower and that may be where their skis are at the base.

If descending their route back to their skis was not on they may have had to come down a different route and be stuck in a snow cave part way thru trying to traverse back around to their skis?
divad

Trad climber
wmass
Mar 9, 2018 - 03:04pm PT
Hoping for a good turn here...
WyoRockMan

climber
Grizzlyville, WY
Mar 9, 2018 - 04:54pm PT
Oh man. Positive vibes.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 9, 2018 - 08:19pm PT
Yeah really hope they are alive in a snow cave. Marc is a very nice guy, wouldn't want anything to happen to him ever.

hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Mar 10, 2018 - 12:29am PT
Still hoping for some good news here.......
Owen

Social climber
New York
Mar 10, 2018 - 02:43am PT
This is the most recent information I could find: https://www.adn.com/alaska-news/2018/03/08/search-and-rescue-underway-for-2-men-on-juneaus-mendenhall-ice-field/
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Mar 10, 2018 - 05:42am PT
Update:

https://www.adn.com/alaska-news/2018/03/09/2-experienced-climbers-still-missing-on-juneau-ice-field-as-weather-hinders-search-efforts/
F

climber
away from the ground
Mar 10, 2018 - 06:27pm PT
^^^

Not sure what you’re saying. Good outcome.... they’re out? Could you provide more detail for those of us that don’t speak Facebook or Canadian please.
John M

climber
Mar 10, 2018 - 06:32pm PT
Tami is hoping for the best outcome..

From the Juneau Mountain Rescue Facebook page.

Serge Leclerc: A little insight on my son Marc-André Leclerc to everyone involved or contemplating becoming involved in the search. Marc-André doesn’t think like most people and can be unpredictable in his decision making process. He is not only highly skilled and will rely on those skills to save himself but he also think outside the box and is very very good at reading a mountain and the environment he is in. His physical ability is well beyond average and so is his intelligence in general. Since he was a child he was always thought to be enjoy life and be safe first as he’s doing it. If he saw signs of the weather turning and felt a longer route outside of cell range even if it meant it would delay him but keep him safer, he would not have hesitated to go that route. I know Marc-André will survive for a long period of time with very little. He spent much of his time alone in the Canadian wilderness in the winter to prepare for events such as this....
I beg you... please don’t underestimate him for his young age. He has accomplished feats every one thought impossible... let’s get him back. Please don’t give up hope.
Thank you all for all your help and thoughts and prayer. Don’t stop praying and filling them with positive energy.
I’m grateful beyond words for everything you’re doing...
F

climber
away from the ground
Mar 10, 2018 - 06:38pm PT
Thanks.
If there is a chance they didn’t experience a traumatic event, (fall, anchor failure), did the rescue group think to leave their gear plus food and fuel at their stash in case they made it back and we’re going to try to get out during the storm?
Hope this one goes Climbers - 2, Reaper - 0 for once.
Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Mar 10, 2018 - 06:50pm PT
Oh please dear god let these guys come out of this and get back to their families.
RURP_Belay

Big Wall climber
Bitter end of a bad anchor
Mar 10, 2018 - 10:49pm PT
??

https://www.juneaumountainrescue.org/
John M

climber
Mar 10, 2018 - 10:55pm PT
The press release in on their Facebook page.

https://www.facebook.com/JuneauMountainRescue/

Press Release for 3/10/18
Juneau Mountain Rescue (JMR) continues to work with the Alaska State Troopers on the search for missing climbers Marc-Andre Leclerc and Ryan Johnson. Current weather conditions are severely hampering efforts to re-fly the area. On Thursday, March 8, the day the search began, four helicopter flights with search teams on board were deployed. Passes were made of the climbers’ planned Mendenhall Glacier exit route, along with their probable ascent and descent routes on the Mendenhall Towers. Both FLIR and RECCO were used to survey the area. The climber’s cache of gear that was not needed for the climb, which included skis, poles and a backpack, was located during those efforts, but deteriorating weather conditions limited further access. The United States Coast Guard and JMR attempted to access the area again Friday, March 9, but were turned around by foul weather. JMR crews spent Saturday, March 10 on weather hold at the Alaska Army National Guard aviation operations facility where the Guard flight crew has a helicopter prepared to fly when conditions allow. During the weather hold JMR has continued to work with friends and family of both climbers to establish a timeline of the climber’s activities. The National Weather Service has consistently provided weather status and forecast support for the search. All teams continue to look for the first available weather window to get back into the field

Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 10, 2018 - 11:00pm PT
If they were in view of the FLIR they probably would have been seen BUT that is qualified by how fast they were scanning and whether they were behind anything or covered by snow.
The search area is also not clearly defined I imagine so that further complicates things.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 10, 2018 - 11:30pm PT
I won’t argue the point but assuming that it is well defined might not be in their best interest.

All the best.
doser

Mountain climber
Vancouver BC
Mar 11, 2018 - 09:28am PT
Treya Klassen, a family friend of the Leclerc's, and a person with a long background in the outdoor industry ( MEC, Malden Mills / Polartec, etc ) has started a Go Fund Me campaign to support the S&R efforts and the family. Marc's father Serge, his mother, Michelle, and his girlfriend, Brette, have all flown to Juneau to be involved in whatever ways they can, and - of course - just to 'be close'. All donations, of whatever amount, are most appreciated. Meanwhile, fingers crossed for the boys... https://www.gofundme.com/592fn8w
Handjam Belay

Gym climber
expat from the truth
Mar 11, 2018 - 02:18pm PT
All the good mountain jah I can send.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Mar 11, 2018 - 06:26pm PT
hey there say, F...

oh my, i am late here, ... just saw this...

i just saw the go fund me, link here... too...

posted by Matt's... i will link that thread and this one, together...


more prayers... i will pass this around, again...
more prayers...

:(


HERE IS MATT'S SUPERTOPO THREAD, JUST FOR A CONNECTION:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3068757/Help-support-search-and-rescue-effort-for-Leclerc-and-johnso
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
Mar 11, 2018 - 10:55pm PT
^^ thanks for the updates
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Mar 11, 2018 - 11:33pm PT
hey there, say, treez, thank you so kindly for updating, us all...


:(
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Mar 12, 2018 - 07:22am PT
Thanks Treez, it's good to have a local correspondent. We're all looking for hope, aren't we.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Mar 12, 2018 - 08:06am PT
Checking this thread daily hoping for some sign of good news, no matter how unlikely at this point. Thank you for any updates as they occur.

Scott
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Mar 12, 2018 - 09:29am PT
When they spoke to people from the summit last Monday they were reportedly uncertain whether to descend north or south.
They remained in cell range for about an hour and a half on Monday which is indicative of either a long spell on the summit or a south side descent, because the cell coverage really only blankets top of south side of the mountain.
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Mar 12, 2018 - 09:36am PT
You can read Ryan's own account of the weather up there in March by finding his Climbing write up from his 2008 route.

Thanks for that, treez.

Here's the link: https://www.climbing.com/news/big-new-route-in-alaskas-mendenhall-towers/

plus an account by Ryan's partner on that climb, Sam Magro: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswire-west-mendenhall-magro-johnson
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Mar 12, 2018 - 11:38am PT
Hopefully they are holed up on the other side and otherwise okay, in snow too deep for travel.

Am hoping for a scenario like Sweeney and Nyman on the Elevator Shaft. They survived 8 days out there wallowing.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California, now Ireland
Mar 12, 2018 - 12:18pm PT
Checking this thread daily hoping for some sign of good news

Ditto Micronut. Worked the summer of 1977 on fishing boats out of Petersburg, always dreamt of Devil's Thumb in the distance.

I do not really know what the area that the two are in is like, but I have an idea.

Best wishes and fingers crossed.
Jeff Gorris

climber
Not from Portlandia
Mar 12, 2018 - 12:49pm PT
Yeah @treez thanks for the updates.
No idea if FLIR would show traces of them in a snow cave. Praying for a good outcome.
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Mar 12, 2018 - 12:55pm PT
From the Climbing article of the 2008 ascent linked above:

All told, we were out for 18 days, we received 20 to 25 feet of snow....

Damn! That ain't Bishop.

BAd
MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Mar 12, 2018 - 01:44pm PT
treez- am I understanding correctly that searchers have found both a Basecamp cache out on the glacier, and separately, their skis at the base of the route?
Did last Thursday’s search get a look at the north side in any great detail?
I’m trying to retain hope but from the beginning it has sounded to me like something catastrophic happened on the descent last Monday. Were any of their possible descent routes prone to snow accumulation, or would we be suspecting something more along the lines of anchor failure or rockfall?
I’m friends with both Ryan and Marc, and I’m following closely. But unfortunately this sounds really bad, and way too familiar.
Thanks so much for keeping us updated.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Mar 12, 2018 - 09:33pm PT
hey there say... just hoping...

:(
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Mar 12, 2018 - 10:31pm PT
Beautiful pictures.
shylock

Social climber
mb
Mar 13, 2018 - 11:59am PT
Seems like there is good weather today...? Fingers tightly crossed
Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Mar 13, 2018 - 02:01pm PT
Come on guys - find a way to signal the searchers if you can. Hope.
Panicbear

Trad climber
Calgary, Alberta
Mar 13, 2018 - 02:27pm PT
Come on, boys! Today's the day.

Treez, thank you for continuing to provide updates, it means a lot.
veewoo23

Trad climber
AK
Mar 13, 2018 - 03:12pm PT
Latest. JMR/ANG Back from the morning flight, refueling, will be going back out. As noted, weather is better today.
https://www.facebook.com/JuneauMountainRescue/?hc_ref=ARTsEy-ZnHL7oHdy77axJN1aPOTv5QnQ3F9TGJ2ULTH_NGCENBPecKvFEoXNG4v8Cy4&fref=nf
RURP_Belay

Big Wall climber
Bitter end of a bad anchor
Mar 13, 2018 - 06:34pm PT
Bump for bad-ass alpinists getting through the hard stuff they have been training for all their lives.
WBraun

climber
Mar 13, 2018 - 08:34pm PT
Perished on the descent?

Grim ......
F

climber
away from the ground
Mar 13, 2018 - 08:58pm PT
^^^
Seems likely. Bummer deal.
RIP guys.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Mar 13, 2018 - 09:15pm PT
This is a hard deal to watch go down . . .
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Mar 13, 2018 - 11:14pm PT
Yes.
Hoser

climber
Vancouver,Rome
Mar 13, 2018 - 11:37pm PT
RIP bro - thanks for the good times!

Marc’s dad sends the message below -
https://www.gofundme.com/592fn8w

To all of our friends near and far who have been supporting us and praying for Marc André I wanted you all to hear it from me first hand before it’s in the news. Sadly we have lost 2 really great climber and I lost a son I am very proud of. Thank you for the support during this difficult time. My heart is so broken...Part of me is gone with him...
Our family appreciates all of your prayers and we would like to ask for a time of privacy as we come to grip with these devastating developments... Marc-André was an amazing, loving man and he has touched many lives in so many ways. He will be remembered and loved forever. I know he is with our Lord and I will be with him again one day. ❤️”

All support for this page will now go to the family to manage and deal with the multitude of items they now have in front of them. As well as much needed respite.
Thank you to everyone for all your messages and contribution. Our community is strong and we will get though this as a loving community.

https://www.gofundme.com/592fn8w
Hoser

climber
Vancouver,Rome
Mar 14, 2018 - 06:07am PT
Nice article on gripped. He mentions the first time Marc attempted the Grand Wall..Marc was always pushing...and he didnt just want to climb the GW...he wanted to link cruel shoes and the upper black dyke...

I, being somewhat normal said...lets keep this somewhat realistic...but he won, he always won...so I said ill lead cruel shoes you take the GW. He brought along a highschool friend and everyone was just knackered after cruel shoes and we bailed...

I had a lot of fun climbing with Marc back in those days, a couple summers later I was just following along in awe and enjoyed reminding him about bailing on the split pillar :)

https://gripped.com/news/canadian-marc-andre-leclerc-has-passed-away-at-24/
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Mar 14, 2018 - 06:47am PT
hey there, say, dear families... i am so very sad to hear to this awful news...

prayers, love, and condolences, at this sad time of moving forward,
without your loved ones... :(
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Mar 14, 2018 - 06:52am PT
So sorry for your loss.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Mar 14, 2018 - 06:59am PT
hey there say, treez... is that ryan, with the fire engine, ?
i saw you posted that, ... please, let me know, when you can...

thank you so much...
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 14, 2018 - 07:29am PT
I cried this morning. Heck I'm still fvcking crying. I'm cryinf for Ryan and Marc, and their families. I'm crying for Brette, Kieran and Luke, and the rest of Marc's friends.

But mostly I'm crying for Marc. He was my friend. Yeah we weren't as close as some of his other friends, but he always was interested in me and what i was doing. Even though he knew I awaited with baited breath for his latest epic tale, he would enquire about my latest climbs and was always stoked on my progress.

Marc was such a humble, nice, energetic guy. I will always remember hanging at the bluffs, and in the boulders at camp four with him at Brette, just shooting the sh#t while we burned the grass away...

I will miss him terribly. This is fortunatly the first friend I have ever lost to the grim reaper, and i'm preparing myself that it won't be the last.

Godspeed Marc and Ryan. I hope you find lots of peaks to send in heaven..

FVCK.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Mar 14, 2018 - 07:44am PT
I cried this morning.

I think we're all crying Mike. Whether we knew him personally, or only through the light he shone into the world of climbing, we will all find it a little darker now.
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Mar 14, 2018 - 07:45am PT
What a terrible loss. My heart goes out to the family and friends of these two men.

Brandon Pullan's article in Gripped, linked above, is an excellent chronicle of Leclerc's unbelievable climbing career. I had heard about his solo of the Emperor Face, but he seemed to be able to do that sort of thing regularly.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 14, 2018 - 07:53am PT
https://flic.kr/p/9QNMgV
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Mar 14, 2018 - 07:53am PT
What an astonishing person--more flame thrower than human. That Gripped article reads like a climbing super hero story. Just staggering. I would like to know more about Johnson, too. This is a huge, sad loss. Condolences to all their friends and family.

BAd
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Mar 14, 2018 - 08:07am PT
Every morning I would check this thread, thinking, please let there be good news, please.
I am so sorry.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Mar 14, 2018 - 08:20am PT
My deepest condolences to those who knew him well and to the tribe in general. What a sad day. Many of us have followed this story since it first broke, hoping for good news, but alas, just sorrow now. May the fond memories that remain sustain those who knew them both in the years to come.


Scott
High Fructose Corn Spirit

Gym climber
Mar 14, 2018 - 08:44am PT
Sorry for your loss, treez; yours and everyone's.

A day at a time.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 14, 2018 - 08:56am PT
I'm sitting here reading this unfold and I can only think what a close community you all have in Squamish and the pain you must feel. Mike, Luke, Kieran and others, my heartfelt condolences for the loss of two very bright lights. Words are such a small consolation.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 14, 2018 - 08:56am PT

F*#k Alpinism. Don’t go.

NO. Marc shone bright and I would never take away from his luster. To do any less would have done him a disservice. He was happy, living his life to the fullest and I would never ask him to change a second of it.

Edit: Thanks Dave, Greg and Wayne. I'm sorry i didn't aknowledge you sooner. I'm so fvck8ng sad today.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Mar 14, 2018 - 08:57am PT
Every morning I would check this thread, thinking, please let there be good news, please.
I am so sorry.

This sums it up for me. I didn't know them, but I am so sorry for what their families and close friends are going through.

Peace and love to the grieving.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 14, 2018 - 09:12am PT
All good Treez. We are all.hurting today.
10b4me

Social climber
Lida Junction
Mar 14, 2018 - 09:40am PT
F*#k Alpinism. Don’t go.

one has to ask themselves if it's worth the risk(been there, done that)especially if there are family responsibilities.

Condolences to the family, and friends.
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Mar 14, 2018 - 09:51am PT
I still can’t believe that that’s just it. Like it didn’t seem possible a week ago and it just seems unrealistic now. Marc was supposed to be untouchable.
The first time I met him was a buildering meetup at UBC. It was before he had really started doing any big alpine things or solos, but after he had climbed some of the hard Squamish testpieces. I knew he was a hardman, but at that time he was relatively unknown outside Squamish. He crushed all the buildering problems.

This was also just after finishing up my first year climbing. I didn’t really know anyone in the community yet, and had no one to share my stoke with. One evening, either late fall or early spring, he invited me over to hang out with him and his friend in North Van. I hadn’t really been to the Shore before, but transitted over. We talked about climbing over a couple beers. Marc was the first person I met who had the same passion I felt, and it was awesome to be able to talk the ear off someone without them getting tired of hearing the same thing haha.

We shared the bus back downtown together, and came up with the wacky, slightly buzzed idea of climbing on top of Science World around two in the morning. We snuck around the odd security guard and managed to get up to where the sphere starts, only to find it was much bigger and more intense than it looked from the ground, so we bailed.

I think it was the year after that his climbing career really started to take off. That was when he did Slesse twice in a day. I didn’t really hang out with him much one on one, and I never got to climb with him, but he always was quick to greet me with a high five and a smile. At the grand opening for the gym in Squamish, I ditched my girlfriend briefly so I could chat with Marc about Slesse. I had tried to onsight solo it myself a couple months earlier. I didn’t summit, but I learned a lot and posted a TR about it here. Marc had read it. It meant a lot to me that he had taken the time to read something I wrote about something that he knew infinitely more about than me.
We weren’t close, but I’m going to miss him.
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
Mar 14, 2018 - 09:51am PT
Huge ache. Like many above, checking in daily for a ray of sunshine.

The older I get the bigger the sucker punch to the gut. I guess it’s because I’m so old and have lived so much and I know what they and their family will miss out on.

I really don’t know anymore about the “cost/benefit” equation. I just don’t know.


Susan

aspendougy

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Mar 14, 2018 - 10:38am PT
It is always more painful when a person has a spouse and a small child at home who will have to grow up without a Father. No having been in that position, I cannot judge; I had a friend who told me when she became a parent, her climbing, mountaineering, adventure perspective changed, and she would not take the risks she formerly took. Each one has to find his own way. I am not a mountaineer, only climbed a little in summers, but seems to me that doing a route like that in a place where the snow comes down heavily in winter is a high risk venture.
JLyons

Sport climber
Cali
Mar 14, 2018 - 10:39am PT
I don’t know where to go with this. I wouldn’t trade a single hand of Uno with my boy for 10 seconds on any peak.

F*#k Alpinism. Don’t go.


Another very sad bit of news - this sport is so beautiful and so tragic in ways. My activities are small-time compared to all of this, but I know when kids came along I REALLY had to be honest with my own willingness to risk their future with both parents living. I understand the draw of the mountains, so no judgment from me in any way. It's such a complicated decision that we all have to make for ourselves, but I know I'm making the right one for my family.

RIP gents, the pictures are killing me, especially with his son.
Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Mar 14, 2018 - 10:53am PT
Such a sad thing, for these guy's families and friends. I am sorry for your loss and the painfulness in your mourning.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Mar 14, 2018 - 10:55am PT
I've posted this before, but I believe it is worth reposting here...


I don't know if this will help you sort out your feelings, but for whatever it is worth, here are some thoughts from a climber who was a son of parents who would have been devastated to lose him, and also a father of a son who has grown into a man who also climbs.

Should I have launched into whitewater as a teenager, and then begun climbing when I moved to where there were rocks and mountains? Or was that a burden I should never have placed on my parents? Should my wife and I have continued climbing when our children were born? Should we have introduced our boys to the outdoors? To climbing? Should I now fear that any phone call might be the one that informs me of my son's death?

Like most of the long-time climbers here on ST, I have had more friends than I want to think about go into the mountains and not come home. Should they not have gone to the mountains?

Finding the answer to all these questions requires me to ask another: What is the alternative?

For me, and for many climbers I know, climbing was far more a way to survive than a way to die. If I hadn't gone paddling, and then climbing, I'd have been dead or in jail long ago. And I can't begin to count the number of friends who have said the same thing.

Some of us simply didn't fit in to the space we were allotted in the Betty Crocker world we were born into. Those of us who found a home in the climbing community were the lucky ones. Yes, some of us died in avalanches, rockfalls, rappelling accidents, whatever... But most of us survived, and when we look at our brothers and sisters who didn't find what we did, the ones who turned to alcohol, drugs, and crime... Well, the answer seems clear to me.

The best way I can sum it all up is to think back to when my children were very young, and remember that yes, when I went climbing for a day, a week, or a month, I took the chance that I would not come home, and they would grow up without a father...

...but to me, that seemed a far, far better outcome for them than to watch their father drink himself to death.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Mar 14, 2018 - 11:24am PT
Deepest condolences to all.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Mar 14, 2018 - 11:32am PT
I wouldn’t trade a single hand of Uno with my boy for 10 seconds on any peak.
I would take 10 seconds on a peak with family over Uno any day, risk of death included.

These risks don't have to be so polarized.

I don't know what happened here, but young climbers living the life described in that Gripped article generally don't make it to 30.

Better to die a tiger than live like a pussy, or something like that.

In any case, it was his choice, and his life, while short, seemed a happy one. His family seemed to support him as well, their choice too.
AlaskaTim

Mountain climber
Mar 14, 2018 - 11:32am PT
Recall when John Millar and Guy Edwards disappeared on the north face of the Devils Thumb, 2003? How many more names can be added to this list...Copp,Dash, Lowe, Dempster, ... the list goes on and on and the names are slowly forgotten. But, there are tragedies left behind: children and partners and parents. Sure, if you are alone and without a family, go ahead and take the risks. However, with kids at home and a partner, is this a good idea? Its an addiction. A selfish delusion.

Bldrjac

Ice climber
Boulder
Mar 14, 2018 - 11:42am PT
I'm so very sorry. For them, but mostly for their families and friends. Their grief will never end, although in time the load will become easier to bear. The question, "is it worth it?" is such a difficult, impossible question....like an Escher drawing, with no beginning, and no end. As the widow of a prolific climber, and a climber myself, believe me, I have spent a great deal of time on this question since Jack's death. Climbing gave me/has given me much of what is dear, memorable, and vital in my life. Would I want to change that? Never. But it has also taken away what was most important to me, what gave my heart and soul real meaning....love. Would I want to change that? Just about every minute of every day. In the end, all we can do is live our lives as we see fit. Try to do right by our loved ones, while feeding our hearts. For now, even though I didn't know either of them personally, my heart is heavy with their loss. My love goes out to their families and friends........I hope they can find their way.
Pam
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Mar 14, 2018 - 11:45am PT
Condolences. I really hoped this one would turn out, such special people. Huge bummer.



[Click to View YouTube Video]
veewoo23

Trad climber
AK
Mar 14, 2018 - 11:54am PT
Updated story from the Anchorage Daily News:
https://www.adn.com/outdoors-adventure/2018/03/14/renowned-alpinists-presumed-dead-after-their-ropes-found-above-juneau-icefield/

Bad weather complicated search efforts for days, but members of Juneau Mountain Rescue on Tuesday were finally able to get a good look at the north face of the Towers from a chartered Coastal helicopter.

They glimpsed an anchor rope at the top of an ice chute on the fourth tower and two climbing ropes in a crevasse midway down the tower, according to troopers spokeswoman Megan Peters. The ropes match the description of Johnson and Leclerc's gear.

"Everything tells us they are down in that crevasse and they are presumed deceased," Peters said.

It's not clear whether Johnson and Leclerc fell into the crevasse or an avalanche carried them into it, she said. "We do know they ascended, took pictures at the top. … We know they hiked a ridge over to the ice chute near the fourth tower."

Also:
https://www.ktoo.org/2018/03/14/mendenhall-towers-climbers-presumed-deceased-search-ends/
“They were able to see some climbing ropes that matched the description of what the climbers used,” Peters said.

Peters said they don’t plan on a recovery operation because of the avalanche danger and other safety hazards.

Peters said searchers were able to home in on the pair’s location after a getting a signal back from a RECCO reflector. Different from avalanche beacons, RECCO reflectors are sometimes built inside helmets, boots or outdoor clothing and can reflect a signal that is transmitted by searchers — even when covered by snow.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Mar 14, 2018 - 12:07pm PT
Those of us who found a home in the climbing community were the lucky ones.

I agree. It's an old saw now, but still true: "Every man dies; not every man really lives."

You live a life of "risk avoidance," and then you die of cancer or a car wreck. Or some madman shoots up a crowd, you included, in Las Vegas. There IS no "risk avoidance." Even living within the confines of your bed just shortens your life, while not giving you much quality of it! The supposed "odds game" is a chimera.

LIVE... and then you die. But at least: LIVE.

It's always profoundly painful to lose a loved one! I hope that the friends and families can be comforted by imagining the feelings these climbers felt on the tops of big mountains and then hearing the stories they shared when back at home.

There's no "clock" that is "supposed" to tick down in predictable fashion for any of us. There is no such thing as "cut short." There is only LIVING to the best of one's ability. And it's quite apparent from this thread that these gentlemen did that!

I honor them.
clode

Trad climber
portland, or
Mar 14, 2018 - 12:21pm PT
I think Bruce Lee said something like "I'd rather die a broken piece of jade than live a life of clay". Truly these men lived a life of jade, until it broke. Condolences to all.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Mar 14, 2018 - 12:22pm PT
Sending love to the grieving from the desert.

Everyone’s life story is different.
Some shine long,
some burn hot and fast.

And another thing-
Many of us grow up without fathers, for a multitude of reasons-
Alcoholism, divorce, etc. We live, often with pain but also with lessons.
These men died for what gave them life, and their children will know this,
as sad, tragic, and difficult as it may be.

Again, so sorry for families, friends, and the community.
doser

Mountain climber
Vancouver BC
Mar 14, 2018 - 12:28pm PT
here is a thorough and insightful piece by Brandon Pullan out of Gripped magazine, which gives a nice insight into what it was like to be touched by the flame of Marc Andre. he will not soon be forgotten. https://gripped.com/news/canadian-marc-andre-leclerc-has-passed-away-in-alaska/
AlaskaTim

Mountain climber
Mar 14, 2018 - 01:09pm PT
All that cliche about "Live" and all that conjecture about dying of cancer while living a presumably "boring" life. Well, after you have kids, it is not your life to live anymore the way you want to...you give yourself up and live for your kids. Now there is a 2.5 year old little boy that will have no memory of his father and a mother left to raise that boy alone because the father died in a ice crack on some mountain far from being at home with his family. There is no glory, no legend, no dreamer or visionary. There is only a fatherless child and widow.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Mar 14, 2018 - 01:14pm PT
When Marc-Andre was 16 he came to help move myself and my wife into our first house when we moved in together.

We bought beer and pizza for our friends that helped us move and Marc-Andre asked my wife "Can I have a beer too?" and she said yes and he blushed because he wasn't legally old enough to drink yet.

I was privileged enough to share first ascents, bouldering days, shiver bivies, laughs and texts with Marc-Andre. He was a good guy. He was honest. He was stoked. He was the only climber I've ever met whose ability to climb lived up to his dreams of what he wanted to climb.

I had to stop writing this four times while crying.

Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Mar 14, 2018 - 01:17pm PT
I always hate the debates that come up in these types of threads. While for sure, the debates have merit, they can also be like tiny shards of glass, cutting and cutting and cutting, the vulnerable skin of those in mourning.

I'd rather be a part of the circle of support for those in grief at this time, rather than standing on the sidelines debating details which the loved ones can't help but be forced to overhear.

fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Mar 14, 2018 - 01:18pm PT
I think Bruce Lee said something like "I'd rather die a broken piece of jade than live a life of clay". Truly these men lived a life of jade, until it broke. Condolences to all.

And let's not forget these guys weren't being reckless, flying squirrel suits at 140mph through holes in rock features.... they simply ran out of time.

And our lives are all the more dull because of their absence.

Condolences....
Dropline

Mountain climber
Somewhere Up There
Mar 14, 2018 - 01:24pm PT

All that cliche about "Live" and all that conjecture about dying of cancer while living a presumably "boring" life. Well, after you have kids, it is not your life to live anymore the way you want to...you give yourself up and live for your kids. Now there is a 2.5 year old little boy that will have no memory of his father and a mother left to raise that boy alone because the father died in a ice crack on some mountain far from being at home with his family. There is no glory, no legend, no dreamer or visionary. There is only a fatherless child and widow.

My sentiments exactly. And for those who say such things shouldn’t be said, if just one climbing parent makes a decision that spares their son or daughter a similar fate, it’s worth every bit of anguish such comments might provoke.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Mar 14, 2018 - 01:31pm PT
rather than standing on the sidelines debating details which the loved ones can't help but be forced to overhear.

Different people are comforted by different things. We're not "debating details." We're ourselves trying to make sense of life and death, and we have varying beliefs about "the answers."

We are climbers, and it is both good and right that we talk about what "it all means" on a climbing forum. If the families and friends "overhear," I sincerely hope and believe that they can clearly see that we are trying to make sense of "it all" in the context of deep respect for those that have been lost. I do hope that they find comfort in something more meaningful than what some seem to be suggesting here, which is: "They BLEW it! How DARE they take such risks when they had families?"

That something-more-meaningful is what many of us are talking about here. If you don't agree that there's something-more-meaningful, then that's your opinion that you have every right to express. But you also should remember that "the loved ones can't help but be forced to overhear."
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Mar 14, 2018 - 01:35pm PT
You certainly do not have to nor should you give up climbing because you have kids. It might however be a good thing to stay away from extreme avalanche danger and try to stick to pleasure climbing until the kids grow up....
Dropline

Mountain climber
Somewhere Up There
Mar 14, 2018 - 01:35pm PT
They BLEW it! How DARE they take such risks when they had families?

It’s not so much that they took such risks when they had families as much as it is they took such risks FOR THEIR CHILDREN. Their children have no say in the matter.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Mar 14, 2018 - 01:37pm PT
thx veewoo, had wondered how they were able to call it based on the ropes alone. The RECCO reflectivity makes sense now.



Rest well alpinists of the highest order!
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Mar 14, 2018 - 01:40pm PT
they took such risks FOR THEIR CHILDREN

I sincerely doubt that that is the case. You seem mighty judgmental about the situation, so you must have intimate knowledge of the motivations of all concerned.

Correct?
Dropline

Mountain climber
Somewhere Up There
Mar 14, 2018 - 01:43pm PT
The children, not just in this case but in every case of a parent participating in high risk sports, cannot accept the risk involved by dint of the fact they are children.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Mar 14, 2018 - 01:52pm PT
^^^ And you know what risks are acceptable in a life-well-lived?
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Mar 14, 2018 - 01:53pm PT
The world is a little dimmer with the loss of Ryan and Marc, any heat and light generated here does little to ameliorate that.
anita514

Gym climber
Great White North
Mar 14, 2018 - 02:00pm PT
FFS is arguing here really necessary?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 14, 2018 - 02:12pm PT
Yo. Let's all chill out and remember, Marc and Ryan. Thanks.for the stories, Trees, and Nathan and.Dru. This is the best.thing about these threads. Let's get back to that.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Mar 14, 2018 - 02:13pm PT
So sad. Here's a comment, posted to https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/marc-andreacute_leclerc_dies_aged_25_in_alaska-681158 , from Jon Griffith, who spent some time photogrphing Leclerc:

Marc was without a doubt the most humble and one of the most talented climbers I ever met. I've never seen someone so at ease soloing hard mixed terrain, yet at the same time so quiet and unassuming about it. He was a role model for the modern narcissistic climber; a real dirt bag who lived for the adventure but would never boast about it because it just wasn't in his nature to even think about boasting about climbing. He was a dreamer, a man who had a smile for every occasion and a passion for people as much as he did for climbing. I didn't know Marc as well as many people on this planet but from my time shooting him and capturing part of his life's story I was really struck by his character. I really enjoyed hanging out with Marc and our endless drives through the Canadian highways talking about everything under the sun. I remember telling him after driving out of The Ghost, that I was glad I'd spent all this time in a car with him talking otherwise I would have thought he was actually crazy having watched him solo the stuff he does. A hidden gem of a man, always flying way under the radar. I have so many fond memories of Marc and yet I only spent a few of weeks with him, but in those short few weeks I grew to respect a man ten years younger than me for the way he treated those around him and the way he engaged with the mountains. A legend in every single way.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Mar 14, 2018 - 02:32pm PT
hey there say... treez... thank you so kindly...

:(


this is a much clearer, photo, too...

very very sad... :(
domngo

climber
Canada
Mar 14, 2018 - 02:34pm PT
<3 start to end <3.

This is lifted from an old Vancouver Sun article I stumbled upon from social media:

Avery

climber
New Zealand
Mar 14, 2018 - 02:36pm PT
This is a very sad day for all concerned.

I approached Marc a number of times for info about some of his climbs. He was always generous, gracious with an almost palpable sense of joy. Nothing was too much trouble.

All climbing related deaths are tragic but for some strange reason some are more affecting than others. This is one of those occasions.

My condolences to Marc and Ryan's family and their many friends. RIP
feralfae

Boulder climber
in the midst of a metaphysical mystery
Mar 14, 2018 - 03:04pm PT
Marc and Ryan
Two excellent young men, fully engaged in the adventure of life.
I am lighting a candle here in Montana and they and all whose lives they touched are in my evening prayers

If one must die, it is better to die a death of heroic proportions, rather than to sink away silently in the swamp of ennui.

My deepest sympathy to Ryan’s and Marc’s families and to all of us (still here) who loved them.

I think they are somewhere, on some Alpine World no doubt messing around with Doug and Logan and all the rest of the Alpinists, having entirely too much fun and laughing most robustly.

Kindest Regards,
Feral*Fae
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Mar 14, 2018 - 03:12pm PT
They both lived many great days. It touches me that helping Oplo move was one of those for Marc.
WyoRockMan

climber
Grizzlyville, WY
Mar 14, 2018 - 03:51pm PT
My deepest condolences to Marc and Ryan's family, friends and others.

Hard news to swallow, these bright young lights.
nah000

climber
now/here
Mar 14, 2018 - 04:09pm PT
A Visit with The Emperor - Mt Robson, Infinite Patience

by Marc-Andre Leclerc
Wednesday, April 20, 2016

One of the great contradictions of climbing writing is that the bigger and deeper the experience the more difficult they tend to be to write about. Soloing the Emperor Face is one of those experiences that can’t be fully summarized in a few paragraphs, but it was such an awe-inspiring climb that it would also be a shame to not even try to write about it while it’s still fresh in my mind.

The Canadian Rockies are an intimidating place to climb alone; the mountains are big and remote with oftentimes loose rock of course zero infrastructure or cell reception if something were to go awry. Another characteristic of the Rockies is that in my mind the best time to climb here is in the Spring, Winter or Fall, the main reason being that in these seasons the gullies tend to be much less melted out, the rock more frozen together and the scenery to be the most spectacular in general. Many of the faces are likely easier and faster to climb with less snow, but there is always the danger of falling rock and the mountain faces often appear less healthy in their state of dryness and summer ice recession.

My first attempt to climb alone in the Rockies was during a -35 cold snap on the Columbia Icefields in November of 2014. Being my first experience in the Canadian Rockies I had little idea of what to expect when I started up Mt Andromeda’s ‘Shooting Gallery’, and I was treated to a rather frightful concoction of downward sloping frozen cubes of choss masked beneath six inches of powder snow and a complete lack of ice in the couloir. Unable to climb down, and unable to construct an anchor in the compact rock to retreat, I was forced to continue climbing un-roped for 30 meters through what felt like a terrible nightmare. I used my tools to loosen and chop away some of the cubes of frozen rock, and use the small edges left behind to hook with my tools and stand on with my front points, the entire time wondering if I were going to skate off of the insecure holds, trembling with fear. Luckily I eventually reached a thin flaring seam into which I hammered two brass nuts that held for long enough for me to bail back down the couloir before hitching a ride to Jasper.

Since then, while building experience climbing with partners on Rockies alpine routes, I wondered to myself if I had built up the experience and technical skill to venture out again solo. Each route I did in the Rockies, even with a strong partner, felt as if it took me to my metal limits and always I was relieved to have a trustworthy and talented partner to share the difficult leads and strenuous trail breaking with.

Between March 25 and April 11 of this year I climbed four alpine routes with my Slovenian friend and climbing partner Luka Lindic, three of them first ascents in the Valley of the Ten Peaks. Each time we climbed another route I could feel that my familiarity and confidence with the Rockies unique style of mixed climbing was becoming stronger. Our final route, a spectacular mixed route on the North face of Neptuak Mountain left me feeling charged with energy and mentally prepared to tackle some of my solo goals. Luka’s girlfriend was arriving on the 13th and their plan was to travel and rock climb together, leaving me a window to try my solos while feeling mentally prepared, fit and with good weather in the forecast. Sometime the stars just align.

As usual I did not have a car to get myself to the mountains, but this would present few problems thanks to public transportation and the good old tactic of sticking out the thumb on the side of the highway.

First on the list was to re-visit Andromeda to see if I was indeed better prepared to tackle the mountain solo. I took a shuttle bus going from Banff to Jasper and the driver happened to be a skier and climber who invited me up into the passenger seat where we chatted about mountains and conditions before dropping me off at the Columbia Icefields. There I set up a cozy camp in the thin trees just off the road and nicely hidden from view, in almost the exact same place I had a year and a half previous.

I did not have any sort of phone, clock or technology with me aside from an MP3 player and my headphones. I decided that I would rely on my intuition in order to wake up and start climbing at the right time. After exploring the fantastic moraines and glacial streams running from the toe of the Athabasca Glacier I went to bed early to get plenty of rest as I had only taken one full rest day since getting out from Valley of the Ten Peaks with Luka.

During the night I woke up two or three times and glance toward the eastern horizon to look for a sign of predawn. The third time I felt rested and I could see a faint hint of light about to rise over the horizon, so I had some hot tea and cereal and began the walk toward the base of the famous ‘Andromeda Strain’. I carried skis with me to make the short glacier crossing somewhat safer, and as I reached the toe of the glacier it became light enough to see the route and I could see a safe path across the small glacier to the base of the route.

I reached the bergshrund and switched into crampons and clipped a few pitons, a set of wires, and two screws to my harness before climbing several hundred feet of easy snow ice and mixed to the base of the first mixed pitch; a short corner that looked to be good fun. The pitch was not steep and I soloed it with my pack on without difficulty; soon I was cleaning snow from the typical downsloping ledges that so often are characteristic of traverses on Rockies alpine routes. This traverse deposited me at the base of a steep chimney line choked with obnoxious snow mushrooms.

At this point I traversed slightly off the easiest line to hang my backpack from a fifi hook on some fixed webbing where it would be well sheltered from the snow I would have to clean while climbing the chimney.

As I soloed up the chimney I carefully trundled snow mushrooms between my legs, taking care to cut away the mushrooms in small pieces that would not knock me off or throw me out of balance. I reached a crux move where I had to spin around and face outwards while stemming to get secure enough feet to remove my lower tool and use it to tap my upper tool more securely into place before spinning back around and pulling into a crack on the chimney’s right hand wall. Above this the climbing was easier although still sustained and exposed and always interesting and fun. I stopped once to pull up my pack on the 5mm static cord I was trailing, then I hung it once again from a fixed piton in a sheltered nook before continuing to the end of the mixed difficulties, never having to rely on any aid (aside from drytooling) or use any kind of self belay.

Upon arriving in the upper couloir it had begun to snow lightly and large amounts of spindrift were pouring down the route from above. The first wave of spindrift had me quite frightened and I braced myself waiting for the impact. To my surprise the snow was light and simply washed down over my gloves and ice tools and off to either side without threatening to knock me off, so I began to climb upwards through the river of powder enjoying the wild conditions.

A cold north wind blew the powder back up the couloir creating an incredible story ambience while I climbed the old grey ice with joy. Soon I arrived at the famous exit pitch, and made my way easily up a loose ramp to gain the steeper ice bulge where the position become truly spectacular for the five final meters of ice before reaching the easy slopes above. I broke trail through poor quality snow and dug through a small cornice and found myself on the summit of Andromeda in near whiteout conditions. I was disappointed as I had been looking forward to the view from the summit, but nonetheless started picking my way down towards to the top of the Practice Gully.

Easy but exposed downclimbing around the huge cornice, followed by several rappels from V-Threads and two hundred more meters of downclimbing on snow brought me to the schrund where there was some conveniently exposed ice to rappel from for one last time. Soon I was skiing back down into the valley bottom, arriving at my tent at what I would guess to be around lunchtime.

I marvelled at how well the climb had gone and at how calm and comfortable I had felt soloing the route; the past three weeks of high frequency alpine climbing with Luka had really made a huge effect on my familiarity with the style of mixed climbing in the Rockies and ‘The Andromeda Strain’ had been the perfect warm up solo. I was so content that I thought about just staying on the icefields for a couple more days and calling things good, but the allure of my next objective ‘Mt Robson’s Emperor Face’ was far too strong. After some wandering about in the gravel flats, I packed up camp and stood on the side of the Highway with my thumb out until a friendly Jasper local picked me up and dropped me off a traveler’s hostel in town.

The next day I made arrangements for a bus to Mt Robson, and completely reorganized and packed my equipment. I planned for four days; one to approach, one to climb and descend, one to relax around Berg Lake and a final day to hike back to the Highway and hitch a ride back to Jasper.

When the bus dropped me off on the side of the Highway I saw Mt Robson for the first time. The way it seemed to just tower above the road was like no other mountain I had ever seen; the summit felt incredible distant as if it were located on another planet entirely. As I began to walk towards the trail head I reminded myself that you only ever get to visit a place for the first time once in your life; I began to immerse myself into the environment taking in all the sounds, the smells and the colours that gave the forest its atmosphere. As I walked up towards Kinney Lake I frequently peered upwards to the summit ridge, looking for clues on how I may descent if I did indeed make it that far. I was in awe.

I took a short break on the shores of Kinney Lake, hoping to take in and appreciate the scenery and to not push myself too hard on the approach, saving energy for the huge climb ahead. As I hiked deeper into the Valleys the scenery slowly changed and I passed through gravel flats, and up beyond the Valley of a Thousand Falls to the snow line where I put on my skis and began skinning. As I rounded the corner above Emperor Falls I began to see the Emperor Face for the first time. I continued through the flats and up to the edge of the small lake at the toe of the Mist Glacier where I planned to spend my first night, and I began to cook some food and observe the route above quietly.

The face was partially obscured in cloud and a huge lenticular cloud extended to the north off of the summit ridge. From the moraine far below I could hear the wind raging violently over the summit ridge more than 2000 meters above and for the first time in a long time I felt deeply intimidated by the aura of the mountain. Was I ready for such an undertaking? Did I have the mental and physical stamina to commit to such a large and daunting face with such minimal equipment?

I lay on my sleeping pad with these thoughts running through my mind, feeling very small and very alone, until as evening approached certain calmness overtook me. I realized that I was approaching the route with a healthy amount of respect, and that the King also respected me and my ambitions in return. I was being drawn toward the mountain in a search for adventure, by a desire to explore my own limitations and to also be immersed in a world so deeply beautiful that it would forever etch itself into my memory.

Despite a strong south wind I fell into a long sleep, and by the time I awoke it was calm and clear. There was still a hint of light in the sky and I could not tell if I had slept for five minutes or if it was nearly sunrise. I detected that the light was coming from the east so I made breakfast and coffee and shouldered my pack to start my journey up the Emperor Face.

By the time I reached the snowy moraine it was light enough to see without a light, and the snow was of the perfect consistency and angle that I could skin directly up it without sliding backwards. As the angle steepened I began switch-backing my way upwards until it was no longer sensible to continue using skis. Here I put on my harness, took out my ice tools and put on my crampons.

A few minutes later I was at the initial ice pillar of ‘Infinite Patience’. The pillar was in thin conditions, and I decided that I would tag up my back pack to make the vertical climbing easier. The steepness took me by surprise and I had to stop to shake out several times through the crux section before the angle slowly eased off. I pulled up my bag and continued up easier, but still not trivial terrain and gained the easy angled slopes leading up towards ‘Bubba’s Couloir’. There was quite a lot of snow on the face and the trail-breaking was somewhat arduous as I made my way to the couloirs entrance. Even in the couloir the snow as at times frustrating, but eventually became firmer and almost neve like as I reached the start of the traverse left into the upper couloir.

Here, the rock was covered with about two feet of powder snow obscuring everything, but as I dug through and uncovered the rock beneath multitudes of thin cracks presented themselves making for good and securing climbing. I would brush away large amounts of snow until finding an ideal thin crack, then I would use my other tool to gently tap the pick into place creating a sort of self belay to hold onto while I continued to clear more snow away, slowly making my way sideways across the wall.

I reached an exposed prow heavily covered in snow where I had to dig an exposed trench further left before making my way onto the crest where I carefully maneuvered around cornices and snow mushrooms. This brought me to the upper snowlopes where I found better conditions and less tiresome trail breaking and could make my way relatively quickly towards the upper mixed runnels that ‘Infinite Patience’ is famous for. As I neared the runnels I could see two possible options, and both were blocked by large snow mushrooms making it impossible to see if there was any ice beneath or which would be the best route. The right hand option did look to be less vertical I so decided to explore it first. I soon found myself scraping up a sketchy groove while digging a tunnel though the snow mushroom; taking care not to dislodge the entire thing on top of myself. I could not help but dislodge snow into my jacket and was soon soaked all the way down to my base layer. I became concerned that if I topped out the face soaking wet and into the wind that I would become hypothermic. I forced my tunnel through the mushroom slowly, grovelling upwards through this unexpected crux, and soon I exited the groove into easier angled climbing above. Here I found better neve and exceptionally fun mixed climbing in grooves high on the face in a fantastic position.

Shortly before reaching the Emperor Ridge I traversed left onto a ledge in the sun where I allowed my clothes to dry and also brewed up four litres of water, afraid that once I reached the Emperor Ridge that the wind would make it impossible for me to use my stove. Once I was sufficiently dry and had plenty of water, I drank half and saved the other two litres for the remainder of the climb. After traversing back onto the route more easy ice and two excellent mixed chimney pitches brought me to the Emperor Ridge.

The views were phenomenal as I scrambled upwards to eventually reach the long traverse across the west face that is used to avoid the Gargoyles of the upper Emperor Ridge. This 800 meter traverse can be the physical and mental crux of the route, and although it is not technical, traversing steep and exposed snow for such a distance is a tedious affair.

I kicked steps and planted my tools for what felt like an eternity, my gloves becoming wet and freezing solid in the cold wind. I watched the sun slowly making its way towards the horizon while traversing towards the Wishbone Arete which never appeared to get any closer.

Eventually I broke upwards through moderate mixed terrain, now having to stop quite often to catch my breath and shake out my feet which were starting to become incredible sore from the hours of front pointing. I entered a blue ice groove in between the spectacular and enormous upper Gargoyles which were very reminiscent of the famous rime mushrooms of The Torres. I tried to remind myself to enjoy the spectacular climbing, but at this point my feet were in agony and I was beginning to suffer my way upwards towards the summit, now mere meters away.

I stumbled onto the summit of Robson at sunset and was rewarded to a breathtaking view of the Rocky Mountains. Snow and ice extended as far as the eye could see in all directions. Robson seemed to be so much taller than any of the surrounding peaks, like a platform in the sky looking down on the rest of the world. I was elated to have made it to the summit, but my feet were in such pain that I knew I couldn’t begin down-climbing the west bowl immediately. I peered over the edge of the south face, but I did not want to take any chances walking alone on the glacier or traversing the infamous ledges beneath the south glacier seracs.

I decided that my best option was to dig a trench in the rime of the summit plateau and open bivouac until I felt rested enough to begin the descent. This would also allow the snow of the west bowl to freeze making for safer conditions the following morning. I had a light emergency bivy sack, essentially a garbage bag with a reflective liner, and I used my light cord and backpack as insulation to lay down on. I took off my outer boots to give my feet a break and I began snacking on my remaining food hoping that the calories would help me stay warmer through the cold windy night. I shivered inside my flimsy bivy sack and pondered my position, alone in an ice coffin on the summit of the Rockies highest peak at night. Despite the discomfort it was undeniable that the situation was quite stupendous.

At one point the wind died down slightly and I used to stove to make a hot water bottle that I placed under my hip, where I was losing most of my heat to the cold ground below. This allowed me some comfort for a short time but soon I began to shiver uncontrollably again. The wind was too strong to light my stove, so I attempted to use the stove inside of the small bivy sack. I managed to get the stove lit and was re-heating the water when in the darkness the water over-boiled and filled my bivy with water and drenched my clothes.

I yelled an obscenity and realized that my situation was becoming too desperate now to stay on the summit any longer, so I climbed out of the bivy sack and began to organize my equipment for the descent. My headlamp batteries were dead, and it took my several minutes with frozen fingers to replace the batteries with fresh ones. Rime was growing all over my gear, my outer boots and my bivy sack. I forced my frozen outer boots back on, and with numb hands and feet I climbed back over the edge of the summit plateau and into the upper west face.

Once I reached ice I became pleasantly distracted in the familiar rhythm of drilling v-threads and making my 25 meter rappels. I sometimes had to down-climb moderate mixed ground and neve to find suitable anchors and I left two nuts and piton in place to rappel short rock bands. I reached the long traverse ledge exactly as morning began to dawn. I was now slightly out of the worst of the wind and I dug a ledge into a sheltered zone between two sharp rock pinnacles to try to brew more water. Sitting on my ledge spindrift poured down just to my left and also to my right as I filled the Jetboil with snow and re-lit the stove each time the wind blew it out.

I was putting my lighter back in my pocket and removing it to light the stove so often that I kept the pocket unzipped for quick access. As I sat melting snow I noticed a small pebble tumbling down the face and over the edge of the cliff bands below. Suddenly, with a heart sinking feeling, I realized that the falling pebble was not a pebble at all, but in fact my lighter. Just then the stove blew out again.

I opened the lid and saw 500ml of water inside, so I added all of my remaining electrolyte tablets and accepted that this was to be my last water for a while. The main problem was that all of my food at the base of the route needed to be cooked in the stove and I was now worried that I would be unable to refuel after the climb.

I continued down-climbing steep frozen snow for several thousand vertical feet as chips of falling ice fell on and around me, released from above by the morning sun. I looked over my shoulder and could suddenly see the shadow of the mountain extending forever into the horizon against a red sky. I tried to take a photo by my camera battery had died from the cold and I was well beyond being motivated to replace it with a new one. I accepted that this moment I would have to be just my own for the rest of my life; it was powerful.

As I lost elevation I began traversing to the west, eventually rounding the mountain and making my way down moderate terrain near the edge of the Emperor Ridge. As the angle decreased I realized that I was home free and that there was little chance of having an accident or mishap now. I had made it!

I stumbled along the shale bands and across snow ledges, making a couple more rappels over rock steps before eventually reaching my skis mid morning. With tired legs I skied back down the moraines and picked up the food and equipment I had left at my first bivi site. I skied to the edge of the Robson River where I lay in the sun drinking water and eating the food that did not need to be cooked.

Pondering my options, I decided to ski to the Hargreaves shelter at Berg Lake to see if there was a lighter inside. Two long kilometres later I found the shelter, and much to my relief a lighter inside! I spent a long while rehydrating meals and eating my fill before eventually falling asleep on the floor of the shelter peacefully. When I awoke, I found in my pocket, much to my dismay a backup lighter that had been there the whole time! The stress has been all for nothing.

Regardless of the lighter situation I was deeply happy and in an incredible state of mind. It was now my fourth day alone in the mountains and my thoughts had reached a depth and clarity that I had never before experienced. The magic was real.

I thought to myself that the essence of alpinism lies in true adventure. I was deeply content that I had not carried a watch with me to keep time, as the obsession with time and speed is in fact one of the greatest detractors from the alpine experience. I was happy that my entire experience had been onsight, on my first visit to the mountain, and that the route had been in completely virgin condition. One of the greatest challenges of mountaineering is in dealing with the natural obstacles the mountain provides. So often in modern alpinism, routes will be fearsomely difficult for the first party of the season, and then once the obstacles have been cleared, a track established or the ‘tunnels’ dug it becomes easy for those who follow.

Climbing routes that have been cleared, with an established track, simply in order to attain the summit, or keeping time in order to set records is in fact reducing the adventure of alpinism more to that of a sport climb, and strips the route of its full challenge making it more of a ‘playing field’ of a team sports athlete or like a barbell at an indoor gym where a jock tries to lift his personal best.

As a young climber it is undeniable that I have been manipulated by the media and popular culture and that some of my own climbs have been subconsciously shaped through what the world perceives to be important in terms of sport. Through time spent in the mountains, away from the crowds, away from the stopwatch and the grades and all the lists of records I’ve been slowly able to pick apart what is important to me and discard things that are not.

Of course the journey of learning never ends but I’ve come to believe that the natural world is the greatest teacher of all, and that listening in silence to the universe around you is perhaps the most productive ways of learning. Perhaps it is not much of a surprise, but so often people are afraid of their own thoughts, resorting to drowning them out with constant noise and distraction. Is it a fear of leaning who we actually are that causes this? Perhaps so many of us are afraid to confront our own personalities that we go on living in a world of falseness, filling the void of true contentment by being actors striving to be perceived by the world around us as something that we ‘supposed to be’ rather than living as who we are.

Already I have been asked how fast I was, but I honestly cannot tell you how many hours the Emperor Face took me to climb. I began when I felt ready and I reached the top at sundown.

I also don’t know how long the hike back to the road took me as well, but I do know that descending through the changing ecosystems back into the world of green lushness and deep blue lakes I felt more peace than I would have had I been counting my rate of kilometers per hour.

I’m happy to say that my visit with the Emperor was a truly special experience. At first I was intimidated by his strong aura but in the end we became friends and the King generously shared his wealth leaving me a much richer person indeed. Thank you.




while i never met you marc-andre, your aura spread far and wide and i too am a much richer person thanks to what you shared during your short time on this plane. thank you.

and so i write this through heart felt tears as i wish my sincerest condolences to those who did share space with both marc-andre and ryan while they were here.

if m-a's death makes me, someone who never met him, feel this way, i can only imagine what those of you who did know them are feeling right now...



finally while our and their loss should make us pause and reflect on our own decisions, i must say i'm a bit astounded by the willingness of some folks to place on exhibit the shallowness to their understandings of the variations found in the human condition... and who then think they are somehow in a position to pass judgement on decisions made by a few folks whose skins they have never lived inside of.



and that is in part because i also know that if the depth of human experience and exploration that is given evidence to in the quoted piece above is useless...

then i don't want to be useful.



sorry to all those who are directly affected by this.

i too wish they could have been the next beckeys.

at the same time, i must honour their spirits, accepting how little i understand, and thank them for the wakes that they were able to leave behind during their relatively short lives.



not everyone in all moments is cut out for lives that contribute to increased solidity...

and unfortunately sometimes the liquid edge cuts back.



peace to the deceased and peace to those left behind.



[
while i can't directly embed it, please take the time to click on this link to watch browniephoto's beautiful short vid featuring m-a and crew doing what they do best.
]
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Mar 14, 2018 - 04:17pm PT
It is ridiculous to debate this. It will only hurt those that are already suffering from the huge loss of their loved ones. I'm sure many of these thoughts have crossed their minds in the privacy of their own lives. It should be left with them for these are their loved ones....of course imho.

I know the loss of a loved one and pray to God for peace and comfort as well as closure for all the family and friends.
Sincerely, Lynne Leichtfuss

Edit: Well said, nah000
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 14, 2018 - 04:32pm PT
Armchair quarterbacking on ST yet again. We pick our path and follow it the best we can.
AKDOG

Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
Mar 14, 2018 - 04:35pm PT

RIP
Sad news, condolences to all the family and friends
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Mar 14, 2018 - 04:36pm PT
Armchair quarterbacking on ST yet again. We pick our path and follow it as best we can.

Right. Let's leave "judgment" to the families.
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Mar 14, 2018 - 05:36pm PT
Deepest sympathies to their families and friends. I only knew Marc peripherally in the Squamish community, but his energy and enthusiasm were infectious. He seemed to embody the "Go get after it!!!" mentality. A great loss to the community. RIP boys.

I always listen to this when someone I know has passed on.
[Click to View YouTube Video]

K
stay norwegian. good boy

climber
Mar 15, 2018 - 02:18am PT
fucck. life lives itself,
if you're open to and receptive of the process.
you cannae argue with your quest.
it unravels according to its own will.

many of us find mountains in our way.
so what do we do?
f*#king climb them.

i do cringe for the children, though.
because i am a sympathetic and compassionate human.

but i also understand that those kiddoes
have a life-path, too.
though it seems f*#ked.
theirs is their's.

death always causes reflection.

but mourn for the living, too.
because so many folks reject life
in their surrender to fear;
and they scrape their dead souls across paved landscapes
all the time worrying about risk;

while these two and me too
we worry not as we accept our assigned destiny
which includes not so much wind-swept ashphalt
as the rutted and mountains paths fall beneath our feet.

i'm not greedy accept in the manner that i wish
i could take all of your sorrow and other emotional hardships
and adopt them as my own and free you
of the struggle because it's all i live for
and my pitted soul is empty without it.

the spices of life are sometimes sharp.

keep chewing it. please. and swallow though the tears
may leak from the corners of our gray eyes.

norm larson

climber
wilson, wyoming
Mar 15, 2018 - 06:15am PT
Very sorry to hear this. We go to the mountains to experience the power and raw energy. Sometimes it ends this way. They shined bright. Best way to live.
Condolences to the friends and family. Be grateful for the time you had with them.
mastadon

Trad climber
crack addict
Mar 15, 2018 - 07:44am PT

Different Marc. Different century. Same outcome.

So sorry..
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Mar 15, 2018 - 08:30am PT
Little-known fact is that Marc-Andre had a sponsorship from his family's church.

He came back from one of his adventures in 2014 and dropped by the church by bike to give a talk to his sponsors.

While he was there his bike was stolen!

My office at the time was kitty corner from the church and he texted me to ask if I had seen any reprobates riding around on his bike.

Snowmassguy

Trad climber
Calirado
Mar 15, 2018 - 10:03am PT
This makes me so sad. I did not know them but feel like I did for some reason. Thoughts and prayers for the families and friends.
When I hear about death in the mountains, I feel guilt for some reason. A decade ago, I was avalanche'd off a mountain 2-3k vertical ft in in AK and came to rest with my head above the surface and with a few bruises. My kids were 1 and 4 at the time. I had incredible luck that day, other have not. The game we play is not fair.

Rest in Peace.
Hoser

climber
Vancouver,Rome
Mar 15, 2018 - 12:55pm PT
https://gripped.com/news/arcteryx-press-release-marc-andre-leclerc/
Braunini

Big Wall climber
cupertino
Mar 15, 2018 - 01:07pm PT
Wow, great place for an argument over these guys' life choices and parental values.. Stay classy Supertopo.

RIP guys.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Mar 15, 2018 - 01:38pm PT
Life is not fair. Sorry these guys had to die. To all involved. In most every great endeavor or life that we celebrate and admire, that person at some time was "irresponsible," according to some metric. There is every reason to want it both ways (perfectly heroic and perfectly safe), but it rarely plays out that way. I feel sorry for the person who never needed heroes.
TWP

Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
Mar 15, 2018 - 01:49pm PT
I read the "Gripped" description of Leclerc's climbing accomplishments and came away realizing how "cutting edge" he was in the solo Alpine climbing world (in other words, the toughest of the toughest genres, lacking only high elevation to the "ultimate" equation) (I include Johnson in this mix too, of course.)

They were seeking the ultimate - to be measured by only themselves and their "limits."

This is the largest game humans play - or can play.

Start with the first hominid that descended from the trees to the savannah floor and you can connect all human progress by those individuals who took the ultimate risk, pressed the known limits, and sought to find "what's out there." Apply this paradigm to all fields of endeavor and you explain all human progress and learning. And adventure.

Leclerc and Johnson choose to play a big game.

We benefit and are all blessed to be a member of a species with Leclercs and Johnsons in our midst.
gruzzy

Social climber
socal
Mar 15, 2018 - 01:56pm PT
Sounds like a couple of good humans.
That goodness will continue
takedamn

climber
four corners
Mar 15, 2018 - 02:48pm PT
The description of Leclerc's last 3-4 years in that Gripped article is jaw-dropping. Unbelievable really.

renzo

Trad climber
Whitefish Mt
Mar 15, 2018 - 03:15pm PT
Death sucks..
IntheFog

climber
Mostly the next place
Mar 15, 2018 - 03:52pm PT
This is such a sad and tragic story. Condolences to families and friends.

And to treez, thank you for the news bulletins, and for telling us about your friend Ryan. That could not have been easy. You did well by him, and by us. Thank you.
telemon01

Trad climber
Montana
Mar 15, 2018 - 04:26pm PT


"Of course the journey of learning never ends but I’ve come to believe that the natural world is the greatest teacher of all, and that listening in silence to the universe around you is perhaps the most productive ways of learning. Perhaps it is not much of a surprise, but so often people are afraid of their own thoughts, resorting to drowning them out with constant noise and distraction. Is it a fear of leaning who we actually are that causes this? Perhaps so many of us are afraid to confront our own personalities that we go on living in a world of falseness, filling the void of true contentment by being actors striving to be perceived by the world around us as something that we ‘supposed to be’ rather than living as who we are."

Amazing insight for a young man in his early 20's

RIP Marc-Andre
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 15, 2018 - 04:51pm PT
Very very sad to hear about their passing. I had a few run ins with Marc and asked him for beta for several climbs. He always was kind, provided good tips, seemed full of life and excitement. Good human with good manners.
His climbing achievements were incredible and several reports about huge climbs well written. For a 24 year old, he was years ahead of his age in body and spirit. This world is more dull without these two.

As far as debates about risk etc...there is living and there is existing. To live means different thing to everyone and we can make personal choices. I work in an emergency department and see peoplr die daily due to car accidents, suicide, shootings, horrible diet/life choices. We can have a thread picking apart every other death...but it is wiser to make own choices and let others pick their faith. As far as i know, no one is perfect, but a lot of people look up to people like Marc for inspiration, he was truely a special person who will be immortal in spirit. I believe these two were safer climbing mountains than most noobs on their first multi pitch routes. It's just that they climbed ALL the time and objective danger at times takes out even the most careful and the strongest of the best. Condolences to family and close friends. This is a horrible loss to deal with.
Saugy

Mountain climber
BC
Mar 15, 2018 - 05:40pm PT
Regardless of the lighter situation I was deeply happy and in an incredible state of mind. It was now my fourth day alone in the mountains and my thoughts had reached a depth and clarity that I had never before experienced. The magic was real.

When I reread this account of Marc's return trip to the Rockies it reminded me of when I saw him just after returning home from his previous trip out there.. the one where he climbed the Wild Thing in a push, then bivied out in 30 below, then soloed Polar Circus and Weeping Wall back to back.

He explained it like someone who had just done their first multi pitch or something. The gleam in his eyes was so radiant, he definitely did discover the magic.

I take solace in knowing that.

My deepest condolences to Ryan's family and to Marc's family also to their closest of friends who are hurting at this time.

I will keep a watchful eye on our ravens while in the crags this season. Peace

Don
seano

Mountain climber
none
Mar 15, 2018 - 06:56pm PT
Cherish every breath and honor the dead.
I can't say it better, DMT, so I won't try.
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 15, 2018 - 08:05pm PT

And Treez, thanks.

So sorry for those who knew them both.
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Mar 15, 2018 - 08:07pm PT
condolences to family and friends. this is a huge loss. i can still barely wrap leclerc's solo of the corkscrew on cerro torre. totally on par with the best of the best. so sad. ss
fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Mar 16, 2018 - 06:28am PT
Man... sad.
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Redwood City
Mar 16, 2018 - 09:47am PT
This whole story is incredibly heartbreaking. I don't understand how you responsibly pursue/justify cutting edge alpinism with young children at home.
brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Mar 16, 2018 - 10:05am PT
those who don't understand probably never will, and those who did don't deserve to be judged..
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Mar 16, 2018 - 10:59am PT

I refrained from making comments and maybe I should not.

For perspective, 15 Americans​ die on average crossing the street each day. An estimated 60 million souls were taken in WWII. Should only single and childless people be selected to become astronauts? What about other dangerous occupations?

I am glad that one of the climbers had a child. The child has a family. The family lost one of it's parts but life will continue. Part of the deceased parent lives through and in the child IMO.

We all know people who have lost parents, siblings, children and friends. Some have lost parents to violence, alchohalism, lung cancer...

There are many situations worse than losing your dad to an avalanche. From what has been conveyed, this dad's life and legacy is one to be proud of and honor, remember and live worthy of.
RussianBot

climber
Mar 16, 2018 - 11:03am PT
Don’t hate the player. Hate the game, if hating is something you need to do.

We each play these seemingly stupid games of our own “choosing.” “Choosing” is just a seemingly genius belief game that we all like to play, but evolutionarily, it’s beating the alternatives.

If you need to find someone to blame, try taking a closer look at yourself.

My condolences to family and friends.
Dropline

Mountain climber
Somewhere Up There
Mar 16, 2018 - 11:16am PT
There is broad consensus among child development researchers that children who grow up with both biological parents present and actively involved in their lives do better by every metric.
quantum7

Trad climber
Squamish
Mar 16, 2018 - 11:47am PT
Enough with the judgement. It doesn't change what has happened and only serves to add more distress to those already suffering. Start a new thread if you must and continue the debate elsewhere.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Mar 16, 2018 - 11:48am PT
I was never concerned about risk, or objective hazards during my ~10 year run in Yosemite. Well, rarely... heheh

Having just had a baby girl a year ago, and being somewhat removed from the climbing scene, I have had time to reflect on my climbing career.

All I can say, over and over...."Glad I made it out in one piece"

For me, and my life....I will not engage in the type of climbing I once did. It is simply the best choice I can make to better the chances of me staying on this earth.

Happy that we all have that choice to make individually. I am sure those guys justified to their wives/families their need to dream....

It hurts even thinking about not coming home to my baby.


RIP
Lennox

climber
in the land of the blind
Mar 16, 2018 - 11:55am PT



Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
Mar 16, 2018 - 12:22pm PT
I highly recommend for those unfamiliar with the area, that you watch the helicopter flight where the details of the accident were discovered. It will also allow you to appreciate how magnificent their accomplishment and how beautiful their resting place.

Hopefully you will also be inspired by LeClerc's family's courage in discovering for themselves and bringing closure to so many people. If they can accept it stoically and share for the benefit of others, surely we on Supertopo can be gracious about it too.

I know from my own experience of fatal mountaineering accidents that knowing what happened and where, can be tremendously healing. May it also be for those who knew these two. Only time can really put it all in perspective. Condolences to all.


Key Update: https://www.facebook.com/SergeJLeclerc/posts/10157225935404418


Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Mar 16, 2018 - 12:32pm PT
mucci, my husband climbed and climbed fairly hard. We had 4 children. I knew there were risks but no way would I keep Dan from pursuing his hearts desire. I was just glad he didn't ask me (to often) to join him.

Again, as I said up thread, Johnson and Leclerc knew what they were up to as did their family and friends. At this point it's bad form for anyone on the Taco to tell them after the fact how they should have lived. It simply is not our business. What is our business is to give support to the grieving.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Mar 16, 2018 - 01:02pm PT
It simply is not our business. What is our business is to give support to the grieving.

That's it.

All the judging on this thread, as though there is some objective fact of how these gentlemen should have prioritized some cost/benefit analysis, is flatly disgusting. Honor the dead. Comfort the living.

'Nuff said!
RussianBot

climber
Mar 16, 2018 - 02:51pm PT
Dropline if you think that you, or anyone else, understands what “every metric” is, take a deeper look at why you want to believe that about yourself. These guys were living their lives by the metrics that mattered to them, which for each of us, are the only metrics that matter. Good for them - they make us proud.
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
Mar 16, 2018 - 03:29pm PT
Sincere condolences and best wishes for the families and friends of these two inspirational men.
Chaz

Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
Mar 16, 2018 - 03:34pm PT
Somewhere this weekend, someone's Old Man will be shot while working at a liquor store. Is it worth fifty bucks to leave your kids to grow up without a father?

A ship in harbor is safe, but that is not what ships are made for.
AE

climber
Boulder, CO
Mar 16, 2018 - 03:58pm PT
Climbing is essentially a self-indulgent activity. It is mostly harmless, once one gains experience which reduces risks, if practiced within boundaries of objective hazards which can be controlled or avoided. That many who climb have avoided accidents for decades proves this to be so.
Moving beyond the safer realms, when active young independent climbers take large risks playing at grand expeditionary alpinism in remote regions, the odds of certainty and success dwindle, eventually into statistical red zones where failure may have the edge, but even more, where healthy survival is not a given. Their lives and deaths may make ripples in a small circle of friends, but everything changes once relationships and family responsibilities impose more real consequences of failure. Continuing at the same risk level reveals no real strength of high character at all, but rather an addiction to adventure perhaps stuck in some point of adolescent macho ideation. This attitude demeans and demotes the physical and emotional needs of others, making the value judgement that the climber's spiritual quest is morally superior to the menial tasks of living day to day without an adventure fix.
It is BS to state that somehow a child should feel privileged to have lost a parent who died doing exactly what he or she loved. This is the same BS that worships meaningless deaths in pointless wars, and tries to concoct a Spartan mythology where valor and heroism is measured in combat disconnected from their own world. How reassuring to know your parent loved you less than what killed them? How is this different from loving heroin or fentanyl more than family? I would like to hear exactly whether John Harlin would prefer to have an aging old mountain legend around today, or if he feels privileged to have lived for fifty years with the shadow of his father's story as his heritage? Beckey for all his flaws at least did not try to have it both ways; he chose not to fail as a father. He also made a lifetime of constant choices, to avoid dying while climbing.
We are being disingenuous when we try to claim that such losses are representative of the best, the greatest parts of human aspiration, but then still call them sad and tragic. Which is it? If the former, then surely we should be happy whenever someone "dies doing what they loved." Yet Harrer, Heckmair, Messner, and scores of others seem to have sensed the time and place to shift priorities, to actual personal sacrifice that meant abandoning the very pursuit that formed them.
The fact is, even the most high-risk climbing is voluntary, and done periodically when and how one chooses. It is nowhere near as courageous or exemplary as the lives of thousands who persist with physical limitations, terminal conditions, and burdens of responsibilities that a lot of climbers shirk.
The old tee shirt was funny, but not off the mark:
Climbing may be hard . . . but it's easier than growing up.
Lennox

climber
in the land of the blind
Mar 16, 2018 - 04:07pm PT
Ya know, I can’t seem to find all this self-righteously reproachful handwringing about Jim continuing his high level climbing, after Layton was conceived, in the Bridwell memorial thread. Huh.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Mar 16, 2018 - 04:57pm PT
I think we need a separate thread for discussing the responsibilities of parenthood for climbers pushing the limits. Spouses and SO's make a conscious decision to be with someone pushing the limits, children do not.

Having this discussion in this thread does not seem right somehow.

Peace to the family and friends of the fallen.
ElGreco

Mountain climber
Mar 16, 2018 - 11:04pm PT
I rarely post, but I just want to say how lucky I feel to have free access to the amazing life-coaching advice that has been flowing so freely. Especially on the tragic occasion of the loss of two driven, inspired and inspiring young men.

All of you who are quick to issue judgement and warnings: do you also comment at funerals of smokers who died of lung cancer? What about people who perished in cycling accidents? Did you warn them to sell that bike? Do you take it upon yourselves to stop pregnant women from drinking? Workaholic dads from being absorbed and away all the time? Do you warn people off drugs? What about driving (clearly the highest exposure to risk for most of us)?

People choose how to live their own lives. It's up to them to draw the line and to discuss its appropriateness with their own loved ones, if they wish. As far as climbing goes, I've met very few people, if any, who climb for anyone but themselves. In the mountains they seek peace, wisdom, beauty, motivation, inspiration. Let them decide what is appropriate and what is not.

Ryan and Marc Andre got very unlucky. It was not their boldness or recklessness that spelled their demise. As far as I can tell, they were close to completing their descent after their successful first ascent when a cornice collapsed high up, debris got funneled down their descent gully and swept them into a crevasse. Awful, harsh, ironic, undeserved bad luck.


The rest of us would do well to focus our attention in a more productive direction when faced with events like this that are tough to swallow - they are a stark reminder to all of us that we are vulnerable. For example, pitching into the discussion that Steve House kicked off a few weeks ago on FB seeking scenarios to inform his attempt to come up with a risk-assessment and decision-making framework in alpinism. Or Will Gadd's teachings on how to rate and address risk. Those folks have seen a thing or two. They are trying to pass some of their learnings on.

Contribute, refine, think. Then make your own decisions. And let others make theirs.

Ryan and Marc Andre, we thank you for your sincerity and inspiration, for the love of life that you so clearly embodied, and we honour your memory. Peace to your souls.

http://www.tommycaldwell.com/stories/2015/2/12/letter-home
Bushman

climber
The state of quantum flux
Mar 17, 2018 - 03:26am PT
The tragic news of these two young men losing their lives in an alpine climbing accident hits very close to home. I did not know them but the connection is shared by most all of us here. Kudos to them for their proud love of sport, their accomplishments, and their efforts.

Would that we all
pursued our dreams with such vigor
In such beautiful places to dwell
regardless the costs
Walking between the footfalls of giants
we see them towering there
Among these great abutments
we know not which way the wind blows

My condolences to the families and friends of Ryan Johnson and Marc-Andre Leclerc
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 17, 2018 - 06:16am PT
Marc and Ryan don't deserve this treatment. This is not the place for this discussion. It is incredibly insensitive for people to keep discussing it here when you KNOW family and friends are reading.

Please take it elsewhere.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Mar 17, 2018 - 09:39am PT
It is not a "lifestyle" choice. It is a "deathstyle" choice made by one's brain that is no longer in control of it's choices. Reward centers in the brain are addicted to a stimuli that is controlling the individual replacing normal drives like love and contentment with the next route soloed.
-


A linear-causal metric to try and determine WHY people do what they do will always be simplistic, especially when "normal drives" are proffered as the gold standard, deviation from which a pathology is indicated.

In most every field and endeavor, risk aversion is the best strategy to go nowhere.

Not everyone is made the same, and differences cannot be attributed to unconscious brain function feeding us dangerous impulses. There IS that, but the river runs deeper by miles.
High Fructose Corn Spirit

Gym climber
Mar 17, 2018 - 09:58am PT
Imo, all's good with kingtut's overall post second above - as long as everyone understands that's his opinion.

I agree in part with this...

"This isn't a memorial service or even [just] a memorial thread. It's [also] one reporting on overdue climbers and now a reporting of the accident."

Not everyone is made the same...

Ain't that the truth.
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
Mar 17, 2018 - 11:02am PT
Reward centers in the brain are addicted to a stimuli that is controlling the individual replacing normal drives like love and contentment with the next route soloed.

And who anointed you to be the one to decide what normal is for everyone?
Lennox

climber
in the land of the blind
Mar 17, 2018 - 11:19am PT
Its past time we stopped celebrating and enabling over the top risk taking by young people.

Young people have always taken more risk than their elders approved of. Do you have a prescription to accelerate the maturation of the prefrontal cortex?

And is this really some kind of public health emergency? Young climbers dropping like flies? Ridiculous!

as a Medical Doctor

Do you often diagnose people you have not examined? How 'bout I diagnose you?

Do you feel that you live "in service to others" and that you are advancing the "human condition" by being a doctor?

How much climbing did you get done while you were younger and working on becoming doctor?

These risks are totally worthwhile when . . .
Extreme risks in climbing serve no further purpose . . .

In the opinion of a never-was-has-been who wants us, but even more so himself, to believe his tepid life of compromises has been on a superior path.

I have come to accept the idea that our lives, on a cosmic scale, are meaningless. But we can find meaning in life as individuals via the ways we each choose to live our lives.

Yet a path that one person finds meaningful might be anathema to another. Still it can be difficult, if one thought they were following a path that they found particularly meaningful, to not proselytize.

But what is truly galling is some blowhard as#@&%e know-it-all who resents others whom he sees having the meaningful experiences he may have missed out on after his path diverged to something 'purposefully advancing the human condition in a socially acceptable way,' and ignorantly projects his idea that those whose lives are or were fuller and more self-actualized than his will ever be, are or were nothing more than reckless and socially feckless.




Lennox

climber
in the land of the blind
Mar 17, 2018 - 11:30am PT
Another idiot doctor. Davis? I've had to save many ER patients from such.






[edit (after your several edits)]

Hah!

It's even worse than I thought. A surgeon? Well, I guess Ben Carson is a fine example of how that works.

nah000

climber
now/here
Mar 17, 2018 - 11:36am PT
well it’s unfortunate that because this was a situation that developed over time and so organically turned into a thread where people were, in part, memorializing friends, that the opportunity to start a new thread labeled “Johnson and Leclerc Memorial Thread” was missed.

and so then, despite the heartfelt memorial and condolence offering posts, along with repeated requests that people respect this space as an impromptu memorial... that kingtut and “the purveyors of objective truth” (tm) weren’t able to see this thread for what it had become and take the opportunity they had to start a new thread titled “Risk, Objective hazards, Children and the Enabling Public” [or some such], where all of those folks who think they’ve got this deal all sorted out, can clutch pearls and tut-tut-tut together... [and so a new thread, where i might have some interest in debating all of the surface deep malarkey being spewed on this thread]

but neither happened and so now here we are shItting in what could have been, to some, a helpful sandbox.

only suggestion i have is that if one of you [treez, big mike, etc?] who are directly affected by this feel the need to start a new memorial thread, know that at least i would delete my previous post from this one and paste it onto a new memorial thread...

i do think it is quite literally the least we as a community can do for the still grieving.

and i’d do it myself, but i know i am viewed, by at least some, as just another know it all keyboard warrior, and so don’t think i’m in a position to lead in this instance.

regardless of how this plays out here, i hope that any friends and family who do end up reading through this are able to see [and then ignore] the monday morning quarterbacking for what it is, while accepting some of the beautiful words that have been written by those who actually knew your friend and/or family member...

i hope that you find, in time, some peace.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Mar 17, 2018 - 12:00pm PT
"Rational" or truly calculated risk is essential to advance the human condition.

----


Again, what you are looking for is a direct causal result, where A does B, and all of us immediately benefit. A mechanistic protocol contingent on rules, in this case, the rules vaguely defined as being responsible to more then yourself, effecting positive changes to those other then yourself. However there is little to suggest that human progress over the long haul advances by dint of small sacrifices over the short term. There's also the risk of categorically labeling everyone taking big risks as pathological, pushed by unseen, diabolical hands, steadied only by the sober hands of reason and prudence. This is neat and handy, and enables us to divide people into discrete groups: selfish and altruistic, responsible and reckless, sane and addictive, and so on.

Of course life, and progress, don't move like this.

That much said, in my view, someone willing to take the big risks and who also wants to concurrently play the family games is someone who wants it both ways, and this rarely turns out well.

If fact the single climber who wants to risk the farm is not perforce selfish, and in a real way, by virtue of the motivation and inspiration his/her efforts might ignite, the single climber belongs to the world. However once you have dependents, you no longer belong to the world, but to your own little tribe.

That's my view, anyhow.

John M

climber
Mar 17, 2018 - 12:03pm PT
good post nahooo.. I was writing something similar, but you said it better. Come on guys. These are both important subjects. Someone who knew them, please start a memorial thread. I want to hear the stories and get to know these two exceptional adventurists.
ElGreco

Mountain climber
Mar 17, 2018 - 12:26pm PT
Kingtut,

Did you ever sit down with Dan Osman, Sean Leary or Dean Potter to ask them what their life goals were? Was making it to age 90 one of them? Or was it to lead deeply meaningful lives according to their own standards? What they did is beyond excessive by my standards. But they are entitled to theirs.

You say extreme climbing is "done". Should we have said the same after Royal and Batso climbed Half Dome and El Cap? Don't you know that it's about the journey, and not the destination? A goal focuses the mind and helps you go through the necessary steps.

Ryan and Marc Andre had done some extreme stuff. But that's not why they were swept on their descent. They got unlucky. Very unlucky. Does everyone who crosses the Khumbu icefall fall into the same category? Anyone who has ever crossed under a serac or a cornice? How about the 100s who get on the RNWF of Half Dome? That thing is active as hell, and there is recent proof. Would you get on the East Buttress of El Cap after last year's rockfall?

Everyone charts their own course. Yes, we have a duty to not let teenagers believe they can get away with anything on the mountains simply because luck has been on their side so far. After a certain point though, it's up to individuals to make their own choices. It's not our place to comment on them, much like it's not our place to comment on people's lifestyle, nutrition, house, car choices etc.

We can use incidents like these to deepen our understanding of objective hazards, their assessment and management. That's what Accidents in N American Mountaineering is about. Yet the same mistakes seem to be made over and over again. Rappel accidents. Protection that pulled.

If there's something that you must do for the collective good following an incident like this, contribute to our risk assessment and decision making frameworks.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 17, 2018 - 02:18pm PT
Fvck all you judgemental a$$holes. Rub some more salt in the.wound! I'm out.
KyleO

Gym climber
Calgary, AB
Mar 17, 2018 - 03:29pm PT
Unreal how people like Dr Kingtut, with his programmed view points and beliefs can post here saying this nonsense.

You have obviously held these negative opinions for some time and you jumped at the chance to express this to an audience that was mourning the loss of a friend/family member/mentor/hero etc.

The accident analysis shows it was likely 100% objective hazard and being in the wrong place at the wrong time. Anyone who lives an active lifestyle knows this can happen hiking/biking/trekking/climbing/scrambling/driving to the nearest gym to get an hour of cardio in. Can you quit posting these negative viewpoints on this thread, which is insulting to family, friends, climbing community etc.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Mar 17, 2018 - 03:41pm PT
I am wholly disgusted with the judgmentalism expressed by some here. And appeal to an MD as expertise on such questions is like appealing to expertise as a mechanic to justify pontification regarding medical questions. Both professions "work on complex systems," but neither gets you any credibility in the other! And it's no ad hominem to point out that fact. An MD knows NO more about human values than any other person, and medical training does NOT transcend into philosophical credibility regarding objective facts about right and wrong. An MD is not an ethicist.

Every MD I've known fits the same old saw: Often wrong, never uncertain.

I sincerely hope that the grieving close-friends and family will not take the judgmentalism of a VERY few here as evidence that most of the rest of us share the same OPINIONS. We do not!

I just don't see why on THIS thread we can't honor the dead, comfort the living, and save the pontification about right and wrong for some other venue.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 17, 2018 - 03:53pm PT
I'm hesitant to post, because of the "Monday morning quarterback" angle of risk assessment after you have already observed the result.
So in an accident analysis, you try to stay objective/conditional as much as you can.
I accept that Marc-André and Ryan chose what they thought was an acceptable risk, when assessed at the start of the climb.

I agree with most of ElGreco's posts, except the "very unlucky" part.
I would agree completely if he had said simply "unlucky".
To me, "very unlucky" means an event with probability < 1/1000 or perhaps as high as 1/100 happened.
I don't have real data, but the cornice/avalanche risk in that gully looks > 1/50 to me.
Sorry about using very rough numbers here without real data, but I just want to use rough values to indicate the relative risk.

At the top, Leclerc called Justin Sweeney, the team manager for his main sponsor, Arc'teryx. Sweeney told Outside magazine that the two climbers were celebrating their climb. They discussed whether they should descend via the north or south face. Sweeney didn't know which route they had chosen.
I believe from Marc-André's summit phone conversation with Justin Sweeney, discussing descent options on both sides of the mountain,
that they knew the gully had significant risk.
It probably was the lowest risk of the available descent options,
given that they didn't have skis, tent and stove cached on the other side.

Avalanches kill experienced mountaineers, because it's usually not feasible to (safely) test the slope in all the relevant locations.
A recent example would be the avalanche that caught Inge Perkins and Hayden Kennedy last October.
And we don't actually know if the primary cause of Marc-André and Ryan's accident was an avalanche, cornice break, rappel anchor failure, etc.
KyleO

Gym climber
Calgary, AB
Mar 17, 2018 - 04:26pm PT
I remember first running into Marc Andre almost 10 years ago in the Smoke Bluffs in Squamish. He was just at that age, within a couple months of first being able to drive alone, legally, where most kids are focused on either hockey and girls, or Nintendo and the internet.

He would usually show up with friends and climb hard stuff on ropes, or appear from the forest, like a cat stalking pray and start running laps on the best routes at the crag then disappear into the forest above. Regardless of style, his slightly lanky teenage frame was exaggerated by his full head of thick, high volume, curly, black hair and was always paired with his toothy, ear to ear, slightly sh#t-eating, humble grin.

I remember thinking wow this kid has it dialed in, then went on to read about his travels, most notably the last five years or so when he took off like a rocket and climbed routes in Canada and Patagonia, in olympian style. Read his article on his Mt. Robson solo and as he describes his intentions for and conclusions after that route, it becomes very clear he found the magic on that trip. That elusive magic only found with changing colours, seasons or time. That self realization kind of magic where the body feels it’s lightest, and the mind becomes focused and content. That special magic feeling of travel that brought us all to climbing in the first place yet we only briefly experience periodically and fleetingly on our best days outside.

I ran into Marc Andre again a couple years ago at Haffner creek. It was nice to get to swap belays and hear stories of his recent exploits and although his lanky frame was gone, that grin was still there. Man he climbed light as a feather that day.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Mar 17, 2018 - 06:37pm PT
Kingtut, I'm not going to debate you on this thread.

You do realize what this thread is, don't you?

If you want to take your posts off of this thread and move them to another thread of your choosing/making and debate until the cows come home about your supposed objective knowledge, I'll be happy to oblige.

But if you had any sensitivity as a physician, you would realize that this thread is not the place for that debate, wherein you are in-effect telling the family, "Oh, and while the pain of loss is most pressing upon you, your husband/father was a selfish, irresponsible jerk. Oh, and as an MD, I KNOW this, so I'm gonna just TELL it to you."

Outrageous.

And incorrect.

So, take your pontifications to another thread, and I'll jump right in. But THIS thread is not the place for your OPINIONS about the moral status of the dead!!!
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Mar 17, 2018 - 06:56pm PT
^^^ Take it to another thread, and I'll be right there. Probably others will as well. But this thread is more than a "search and rescue report."

I won't respond to you anymore here.
Lennox

climber
in the land of the blind
Mar 17, 2018 - 07:06pm PT
kingtut-tut,

Cut, delete and paste in a new 'Worthiness Algorithm' thread.

I'd like to delete my posts (they don't belong here) but neither do you.
F

climber
away from the ground
Mar 17, 2018 - 09:26pm PT
Respect.
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