who knew Fanny, in the 70's, was so good

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Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 13, 2018 - 11:33pm PT




Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 13, 2018 - 11:34pm PT
Thanks for the stories! That's good stuff, chainsaw.
chainsaw

Trad climber
CA
Mar 14, 2018 - 12:01am PT
Dude, nice Joan Armatrading posts! I added some stuff by edit to the headwaters story.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 14, 2018 - 12:21am PT
Pepper spray, Q-tips, rebar, handcuffs, car bombs, more handcuffs, tree sitting under violent siege, and nonviolence: now that's full value, fully committed living!
I knew a woman who was a Weatherman activist, but those gutsy, risk-laden, over the top, violent experiences aren't my stories to tell, and she probably wouldn't either (and didn't).
zBrown

Ice climber
Mar 14, 2018 - 04:29pm PT
Flip liked 'em.




Johnny liked 'em.





Saturday night I was downtown
Working for the FBI
Sitting in a nest of bad men




Oh Honey!




Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 14, 2018 - 07:40pm PT
7 to 12-year-old shred head fembots will clip yer bangs for ya, stat!



 Just wait & see: someday one of these prodigies is going to tire of noodling around on the guitar, strap on a Pokémon chalk bag, and solo Free Rider.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 14, 2018 - 09:22pm PT
You know, zB, Long Cool Woman in a Black Dress by the Hollies has to be one of the top 10 examples of all time for how rock 'n roll should make a person feel.

plus, Plus, your riff on the Ms Raitt talking to Bass player Willie Dixon about Greg "pretty boy" All_man passage just cracked me up!
if he doesn't stop pissing me off, I'm gonna take a hike up to Bass Lake and hire some angels to beat the schitt out of him


^^^
I like this stuff because it was catchy and slickly produced.
(So were Teen Beat magazine and Barbie Dolls, what's a listener to do ...)
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 14, 2018 - 09:40pm PT
LONG COOL WOMAN (In a Black Dress)
The Hollies

Saturday night I was downtown
Working for the FBI
Sittin' in a nest of bad men
Whiskey bottles piling high

Bootlegging boozer on the west side
Full of people who are doing wrong
Just about to call up the DA man
When I heard this woman sing a song

A pair of 45's made me open my eyes
My temperature started to rise
She was a long cool woman in a black dress
Just-a 5'9, beautiful, tall
With just one look I was a bad mess
'Cause that long cool woman had it all

[Instrumental Interlude]

I saw her heading to the table
Like a tall walking big black cat
When Charlie said I hope that you're able boy
'Cause I'm telling you she knows where it's at
Then suddenly we heard the sirens
And everybody started to run
A-jumping out of doors and tables
When I heard somebody shootin' a gun
Well the DA was pumping my left hand

And a-she was a-holding my right
Well I told her don't get scared
'Cause you're gonna be spared
I've gotta be forgivin' if I wanna spend my living
With a long cool woman in a black dress
Just a 5'9 beautiful tall
Yeah, with just one look I was a bad mess
'Cause that long cool woman had it all
Had it all
Had it all
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 15, 2018 - 07:41am PT
hahaha
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 15, 2018 - 07:43am PT
This could be a good read:
Credit: Amazon

Amazon says:
In 1937, climbing mountains was thought to be an activity reserved for men.
Ruth Dyar Mendenhall broke that barrier to become one of California's first and most important women mountain climbers.

The letters collected in Woman on the Rocks:
The Mountaineering Letters of Ruth Dyar Mendenhall (Spotted Dog Press 2007), edited by Valerie Mendenhall Cohen, document her amazing fifty-year mountaineering career.

Katie Ives' review for the AAC:
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200845800/Woman-on-the-Rocks-The-Mountaineering-Letters-of-Ruth-Dyar-Mendenhall
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Mar 15, 2018 - 11:58am PT
Roy, the Ruth Mendenhall book looks like a worthy read, for sure.

Katie wrote a pretty fair review, too, with some interesting quotes.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 15, 2018 - 12:42pm PT
I think it goes deeper than that, mouse.
I was hoping something of this would've been reflected in some of the reviews, but I had this conversation with Steve Grossman about the book yesterday.

Apparently, before the war, and somewhat in contradiction to what you read in reviews of this book, it will describe this prewar era as a time when women were much more involved in the mountains and mountaineering. The apogee of that was Rosie the Riveter, who became an icon of women's empowerment, exemplified by their being swept from the kitchen and into the manufacturing effort during the war.

Credit: Google images

So, unless I misinterpreted what Steve had said, it's possible he was talking about the greater history of which he was already aware, but I believe this book will talk about how during the postwar era, women were somehow put back in their place, so to speak.

There is some sense in this if you just review in your head all the pictures you've seen historically, namely from the 20s and 30s, of women involved in mountain club stuff, prior to the introduction of belays & more aggressively roped and protected climbing, more in the sense of general mountaineering, such as in Bob Godfrey and Dudley Chelton's book: CLIMB, where you see in fact large groups of women, with and without men, all over the flanks of the Flatirons.

If you think of the Chautauqua movement, which I believe happened just after the turn-of-the-century, where people were encouraged to get into the mountains and the arts, the idea goes that women were much more involved in this, and that after World War II, all of that changed. And you know, the Chautauqua movement itself was somewhat, if not mostly dismantled, one of the remnants being the Chautauqua Park and dining hall above Boulder Colorado.

Eldorado Canyon used to have a ton more hardened infrastructure, conveyances (see: funicular) and a hotel on the side of the canyon, at one time people were much more encouraged to get into nature, notwithstanding with some creature comforts to help along the movement. As Kevin has said, climbing gyms are a much more amenable environment to many women in terms of their interest in climbing. And clearly more socially focused, as was the Chautauqua movement. Something to be said for this. I don't know if I need to dig it up, but I was watching a climbing video centered on women recently, and one of the women said one of the things she likes most about climbing is the social element, something which Kevin has also indicated before.

We are NOT talking: rope, rack, and the shirt on your back here.
And YES, many women like their creature comforts. My wife is way more amenable to a long day in the mountains if she can return home, versus sleeping on the ground or in a tent.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chautauqua
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Funicular

The cover of a 1917 promotional brochure:

Credit: Wikipedia Commons/1917 promotional brochure

I'll be excited to get this Ruth Dyer Mendenhall book and see if there's an explication of any of this, though I think it is more focused on the spare and sparse aspects of a woman doing technical climbing, with minimal means, and in the rough and wild, as indicated in the reviews.

I don't think it's necessarily going to refute what's been said in this thread. But it might open our eyes to the general proclivity of women to be involved in mountain activities, not necessarily technical climbing per se, and there may be some truth to this idea of a cultural renaissance in respect to the empowerment of women which reached its height during the war effort, from which our culture retreated.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 15, 2018 - 03:23pm PT
Ha ha: and they're going to get it!
If Outside Online magazine's ad campaign has any sway, or is any kind of indicator:

Credit: outsideonline

So move over, Rover!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 15, 2018 - 03:48pm PT
And after that fine announcement ...

Every guy needs a little Kim Gordon/Sonic Youth in his life ... part of the time:



I WANNA BE YOUR DOG

So messed up, I want you here
In my room, I want you here
Now we're gonna be face-to-face
And we lay right down in my favorite place
Now I wanna be your dog
Now I wanna be your dog
Now I wanna be your dog
Well, come on
Now I'm ready to close my eyes
But now I'm ready to close my mind
And now I'm ready to feel your hand
And lose my heart on the burning sand
Now I wanna be your dog
Now I wanna be your dog
Now I wanna be your dog
Well, come on

Songwriters: Kim Gordon / Lee M. Ranaldo / Thurston Joseph Moore
Freezer Burn / I Wanna Be Your Dog lyrics © Universal Music Publishing Group




BULL IN THE HEATHER

Ten, twenty, thirty, forty
Tell me that you want to hold me
Tell me that you want to bore me
Tell me that you gotta show me
Tell me that you need to slowly
Tell me that yr burning for me
Tell me that you can't afford me
Time to tell yr dirty story
Time f'are turning over and over
Time f'are turning four leaf clover
Betting on the bull in the heather
Ten, twenty, thirty, forty
Tell me that you want to scold me
Tell me that you a-dore me
Tell me that you're famous for me
Tell me that yr gonna score me
Tell me that you gotta show me
Tell me that you need to sorely
Time to tell yr love story
Time f'are turning over and over
Time f'are turning four leaf clover
Betting on the bull in the heather

Songwriters: Kim Gordon / Lee M. Ranaldo / Steven Jay Shelley / Thurston Joseph Moore
Bull in the Heather lyrics © Universal Music Publishing Group




DRUNKEN BUTTERFLY

Smile like a sun, back over time
Crazy for you, pleasure is mine
I love you, I love you, I love you, what's your name?
I love you, I love you, I love you, what's your name?
You're coming through, even it up
Going too far, try understand
I love you, I love you, I love you, what's your name?
I love you, I love you, I love you, what's your name?
Whisper, kiss your ear, I'll tell you what I fear
Whisper the kisses in your ear, I'll tell you what I fear
Come on home, just ain't fair
Name of rock 'n' roll, where love dies
Couldn't find a soul, tell it like it is
Deep down inside, drunken butterfly
I love you, I love you, I love you, what's your name?
I love you, I love you, I love you, what's your name?
I love you, I love you, I love you, what's your name?
I love you, I love you, I love you, what's your name?

Songwriters: Kim Gordon / Lee M. Ranaldo / Steven Jay Shelley / Thurston Joseph Moore
Drunken Butterfly lyrics © Universal Music Publishing Group

.........................



^^^
Now about two thirds through this interview (37 min.), and it's like augering into quicksand. Intentionally slack, and with far less effect than achieved in the music.
Probably going to read the Mendenhall book first and save the Kim Gordon Girl in a Band book, which is limply supported here, for never. Or maybe a little bit later than that.

That's probably part and parcel to the intended anti-commercialism affectation.

... And after finishing the 67 min. interview, well, asking an anarchic artist to give a structured interview is, you know, um ... I only have myself to blame.
Heyzeus

climber
Hollywood,Ca
Mar 15, 2018 - 04:32pm PT
I Wanna Be Your Dog was written by The Stooges, not Sonic Youth.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 15, 2018 - 04:52pm PT
I know, what's up with that?
They both copyrighted it.

The Stooges attribution for I Wanna Be Your Dog:

Songwriters: David Alexander / James Osterberg / Ronald Asheton / Scott Asheton
I Wanna Be Your Dog lyrics © Warner/Chappell Music, Inc, BMG Rights Management US, LLC

Probably an inside joke between the bands. Or an outside joke for the fans?
I do see only one difference: Sonic Youth wrote sand, while The Stooges wrote sands.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Mar 15, 2018 - 05:24pm PT
If ya lose your woman, please don't fool with mine...

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 15, 2018 - 06:25pm PT
That entire Cream Royal Albert Hall performance from 2005 is so goddamned good!
If your full collection of music videos were to be limited to three items, it should make the cut.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Mar 15, 2018 - 06:27pm PT
^^^
I got it on Blu-ray Roy. :)
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 15, 2018 - 07:06pm PT
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