Medial Epicondylitis Golfer's/Climbers Elbow

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Jon Beck

Trad climber

Oceanside

Mar 19, 2018 - 09:47am PT

Thanks Mark, exactly what I was looking for. hopefully I can nip this in the bud. Gotta love this crowd sourcing for keeping the body tuned up, another thread on here fixed my knee issues in a few weeks.

Not a fan of broccoli but my son was here for a week and I cook it for him and had two of those bands sitting on the kitchen counter

Is golf legal in Ashland :)

Steven Amter

climber

Washington, DC

Mar 21, 2018 - 03:30pm PT

Metolius sells a finger extensor device called the Grip Saver Plus that works well:

tradmanclimbs

Ice climber

Pomfert VT

Mar 21, 2018 - 03:55pm PT

Curcumin!

justthemaid

climber

Jim Henson's Basement

Mar 26, 2018 - 07:33am PT

Informative thread- I've never had elbow issues until about 6 weeks ago- whammo in both elbows. It's painful enough that it disrupts my sleep. I think it started more from stained glass work than climbing. I've been on the regular exercises and some massage therapy and supplements daily for a couple weeks with minimal improvement. The new job I'm saddled with for the summer is a lot of repetitive motion so unfortunately, there's no rest days for my arms in the immediate future.

I think I'm cursed with some bad genetics too. Connective tissue stuff seems to be chronic and hard to heal with me.
Guess I just have to keep on the therapy and learn to deal .

By the time one area heals...

another is in pain...

FUK!!!...

Welcome to my world^

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Mar 26, 2018 - 09:03am PT

Jim’s wife here. Try KT tape. They have informative videos of how to apply it. After almost a year of not climbing I used the tape for 7 weeks and my tennis elbow was fixed with no recurrences.

Mark Force

Trad climber

Ashland, Oregon

Mar 26, 2018 - 09:24am PT

Check out the hand and forearm rehab tools and programs at ironmind.com.

Jon, Pot and golf are legal in Ashland. Come on up and I'll be your dumb caddy. Dumb cuz I don't play golf. Well maybe not the only reason I'm dumb. Talk to my wife - she'll give you the list.

Jon Beck

Trad climber

Oceanside

Mar 26, 2018 - 11:21am PT

I find the exercises work wonders. Laying off seemed to aggravate the elbow. I have been doing the wrist rotational exercise with a small weight on one end of a dumbbell bar. Also doing the finger exercises Mark suggested with a rubber band. Discovered that my right are was dominate, I figure I favor it when I do pull ups.

Also been doing some eccentric exercises. Seems like it does not take much to make a big difference. I do no more than 5 minutes of therapeutic exercises during breaks between bouldering (in a gym)

I also quit doing pull-ups on the hang board, I just hang now.

Found a grip strength meter at the gym, will be monitoring my grip strength to see the effects of the exercises. the grip strength meter was so cool that I decided to buy one. The name brand model is 200 bucks, but I found a Chinese knock-off for 16 dollars, delivered. Hope it gets here before the tariffs kick in.

Mark - Ashland is a great town, helped a friend move up their. Seems like the anti-golf community. I don't golf, pretty sure there are not many golfers that climb. Thanks for the exercise tips.