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DaveBrown
Trad climber
London
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 15, 2018 - 10:13am PT
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I looking for some advice on climbing on Temple Crag in the High Sierra in early May.
I'm visiting California from the UK the first week in May and was hoping to climb something on Temple Crag. I'm not sure if this is a totally unrealistic idea. I know people normally climb here June to September but I'm on a work related trip so its got to be May.
I'm happy on snow and glaciers and can be equipped with crampons and axe if it is required.
Am I going to get stuck in huge amounts of soft snow and eaten by hungry bears or will it work fine.
Your opinions please.
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TLP
climber
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Feb 15, 2018 - 10:25am PT
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That's when you normally go skiing in the High Sierra, on transformed (corn) snow, but this is a really low snowfall year, so it's completely different. We could get many meters of snow dumpage still, so keep your options open.
Most likely, you'll have frozen snow to walk on in the morning, but soft in the afternoon (when you're on the rock). You'd want crampons and one axe to make the approaches, or stomp steps the afternoon before, and just walk up the stairs you made the next morning. Descending, you'll definitely need gaiters because it will be slushy, possibly deep in places.
Plan on the hike in being mostly on snow, but likely not requiring skis or snowshoes unless we get loads of late snowfall. Kind of like all the higher peaks in the Mt Blanc range all summer, you just walk over glaciers or snow to your peak and get after it. (Only we have nothing by way of significant glaciers.)
The bears will not eat you, but your food they will, and they'll be out and looking at that time. Bring a food canister and put everything in it.
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DaveBrown
Trad climber
London
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2018 - 10:42am PT
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Thanks that sounds really positive.
I assume if its snowed loads I can hire snow shoes from somewhere local.
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stata184
Sport climber
Amherst
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Feb 15, 2018 - 10:52am PT
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I'd guess that Temple Crag would be fine for May this year if it's not too cold and windy. I climbed Dark Star in the first week of June last year and conditions were great, even after the massive winter. It was a bit chilly with the wind but the descent and approach were straightforward. My partner and I wore approach shoes (which got very wet) for the approach/descent and each carried a single trekking pole. The descent isn't steep and we didn't need crampons or axes but wouldn't have complained about having them, especially for crossing frozen snow in the morning. I can't imagine that this year's snowpack will be an issue, sounds like a fun early season trip if you get a warm/sunny day.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Feb 15, 2018 - 10:53am PT
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If this winter in California continues the same pattern as it has, you'll be fine dealing with what snow there will be. I climbed Temple Crag during back to back drought seasons and managed it both times during the month of May. Bring crampons. Since the snow won't yet be consolidated, you'll be fine just kick stepping your way up to the base. IMO, I think both Sun Ribbon Arete (steepens while heading up into a chute) and Dark Star (narrow snow covered ledges) approaches are the more challenging approaches. Keep that in mind when doing those routes in the early season. Again, IMO, the approaches to Moon Goddess Arete and Venusian Blind are easier. And a bit easier to retrieve stashed crampons when you come back down from Temple Crag.
My two personal favorites are Sun Ribbon Arete (a super cool tyrolian traverse) and Moon Goddess Arete. Whatever you end up doing, have loads of fun!!
On a side note, I did Temple the first time in approach shoes. Big mistake! Even planting a good foot, it seemed I slipped a 1/3rd of the time. As you know, approach shoes don't have the traction needed in snow. And they WILL get wet!
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DaveBrown
Trad climber
London
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2018 - 02:42pm PT
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Thanks for the comments.
It sounds like providing the weather is ok and it hasn't dumped snow in the proceeding week it could be good.
I'm unlikely to get eaten by bears if I take a bear canister.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Feb 16, 2018 - 03:28pm PT
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Given the winter we're having (or, more appropriately, not having), you could be fine. However, if winter or even an unruly spring decides to show up, then Temple will be harder to tick. I'd say come ready to climb, but it conditions don't permit, you might be able to sample some less remote Sierra objectives that won't be as condition dependent: Whitney Portal, Shuteye, the Needles, etc.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 16, 2018 - 04:05pm PT
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I’m putting good money on Mr Brown having been to the Alps, or at least the Ben.
I’m not gonna lose any sleep over him and some snowflakes, of any sort.
The Mr Brown I met there BITD knew him a nice snowflake.
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j kazu
Trad climber
southern california
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Apr 13, 2018 - 12:21pm PT
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Has anyone been around Temple Crag recently that can comment on conditions? Tentatively planning to get on Dark Star mid-May. Wondering what kind of snow conditions to expect after these late season storms we've been getting.
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DaveBrown
Trad climber
London
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2018 - 05:50am PT
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I've been looking at photos tagged #templecrag on Instagram and it looks like its been snowy.
I'm not sure how that will equate to snow on the routes though. I was thinking that as long as we were equipped to deal with steep snow approaches and descents etc the routes/ridges themselves would probably be snow free.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
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Apr 17, 2018 - 06:46am PT
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arm chairing it here but it's been winter above 10;000 feet all winter... there's not that much snow down low , but higher , thanks to the AR storms , there likely is...?
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Apr 17, 2018 - 07:30am PT
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Looks pretty darn snowy in the back country. Stormed up high yesterday, and another is due in a few days. Temple will be a full-on alpine endeavor this May. Brrrrrr.....
BAd
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
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Apr 17, 2018 - 12:56pm PT
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Yesterday, there was a full-blast winter storm in Sonoro clear down to 2500 ft. Temple Crag in early May is likely to be pretty much of a snow-ball. That's not to say it couldn't be done if the road up to the Palisades is open and clear at that point. I've climbed in the Palisades in June when there was still 20 ft of snow on the ground and more up on the glaciers. Depends on your inclination, commitment and taste.
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