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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
Climbin high
Trad climber
Brisbane, queensland
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 21, 2018 - 07:29pm PT
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Hi All,
Our friends and I are coming from Australia to the valley in May. Around the 2nd week of May we are heading up to Tuolumne for the triple then bishop with the intention of doing the Evolution traverse - maybe.
We are concerned about the conditions and was hoping you could help us out with some local knowledge.
So we are wondering
1) What is the average min and max temps around the 10th May
2) Is the weather generally stable or unpredictable?
3) Should we bring an ice axe and crampons?
4) Is this a bad idea?
5) What other advice do you have?
We are planning to move relatively fast but we are also fairly inexperienced in alpine conditions.
Thanks in advance!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Jan 21, 2018 - 09:09pm PT
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HA!!!
Yer gunna die!
2nd week in May is still early for rock climbing in the high sierra. You will not be able to drive to Tuolumne...and the evolution traverse would be cold and snowy I think.
"We are planning to move relatively fast but we are also fairly inexperienced in alpine conditions."
I do not believe the evolution traverse is where you want to be at that time of year if you are inexperienced, even if you plan to move fast your inexperience and lack of knowledge about what you plan on doing suggests this will not be the case.
Do some more research...most of what you asked can be found with some searching. I'm sure others here will chime in.
Best wishes and hope you have an amazing trip once you get things figured out.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 22, 2018 - 03:06am PT
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I did the Evolution Traverse a few years ago in early August and I am not inexperienced in alpine climbing. It was a great adventure but very long. We had dry rock and ended up soloing about 95% of the route and it still took the better part of two days. With snowy, alpine conditions, it would be quite an endeavor.
I agree the Meadows probably won’t be the best option that time of year. The Valley would seem best...I hear there is some quality climbing down that way....maybe just hand out there and endure the crowds.
Have fun!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jan 22, 2018 - 03:53am PT
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June 1st in the High Sierra... sometimes
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Jan 22, 2018 - 06:44am PT
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From this past September after a record winter of snow fall. Quite a bit of snow made it through the summer.
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duffer
Trad climber
Sonora, CA
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Jan 22, 2018 - 10:11am PT
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#4 Is this a bad idea? Yes
Tioga Pass will probably still be closed so even getting to Tuolumne Meadows won't happen. Evolution Traverse would be quite difficult to access.
When you get tired of the crowds in the Valley, go to Shuteye Ridge and/or the Needles though snow conditions can vary that time of year. Calaveras Dome would be another option if you need to stay at lower elevations because of weather or snow conditions. Lover's Leap could be good.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jan 22, 2018 - 10:33am PT
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Everything in your plan is good except the month. If you can change to August, do it!
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Jan 22, 2018 - 10:50am PT
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1. Do your research but it can usually be below freezing at night but usually not bitter cold. Days can go into the 80s.
2. Weather is variable but probably not in high thunderstorm season in May.
3. Yes, you are going to probably have to snowshoe/ski over lots of snow on the 10 mile approach.
4. Yes, it is a great idea. One of two things will happen, either you will send this testpiece and post here how Supertopo is full of a bunch old naysayer hasbeens or you get to experience the character building that a full epic entails and it will give us armchair alpinists fodder to give you the "I told you so".
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 22, 2018 - 12:29pm PT
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Yep...go for it. It will only be an adventure when (or if) things start going wrong. Otherwise, it will be a fine outing in the mountains....plan on a bivy in the climb. Water won’t be a problem as it can be in late summer. Lt. wt. aluminum crampons and a light piolet will be helpful. I doubt very much that you will find any ice but you will encounter some snow for sure. You can use the crampons on good approach shoes which will also be sufficient for the rock. Boots and rock climbing shoes wont be needed.
I would hike in with a tent and camp at the base of the climb. Leave the tent and a little extra food and take a bivy sack and light wt. bag on the climb, nights will be chilly. You will be passing very close to the tent on the way out and depending on time and fatigue factor you can either grab the tent or spend the night and enjoy that food that you stashed.
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Climbin high
Trad climber
Brisbane, queensland
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2018 - 05:41pm PT
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Hi Guys,
Thanks so much for your input.
We thought it would be a long shot to start with and after hearing your points I don't think it's something we are going to plan for now. Although we love a good adventure, epic-ing in the high sierra's at that time of year may be a little out of our pay grade, for now at least.
What a shame, we are just going to have to climb in the valley instead:-)
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Yinzer
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jan 24, 2018 - 12:28am PT
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Since you're coming all the way from AUS, I think your instinct to try to get somewhere in the high-alpine is probably worthwhile.
This winter has started out extremely dry, so its possible (hopefully not) that it will be a very low snow year. I agree with the comments above that the EVO is probably best left for a second or third trip and a later month.
BUT- to throw out some Alpine / High Sierra ideas in case it is dry (not postholing / no water on routes) maybe consider adding to your visit (aside from the Valley / Needles) maybe consider:
Ruby Wall - Little Lakes Valley
Mt Emerson &/or Cardinal Pinnacle - Bishop
or maybe even a trip to Whitney Portal. Many climbs, and being further south in the Sierra will mean alot drier and less snow coverage in those shoulder months. Whitney or Russell could be fun.
Enjoy your travels!
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Jan 24, 2018 - 04:56am PT
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Cardinal Pinnacle/Emerson on successive days is a nice combo, in that order to acclimatize.
The Needles, to get away from the crowds in the Valley if you feel inclined.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 24, 2018 - 09:01am PT
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May is pretty early for the dirt road out to the Needles camping/trailhead to be open, but it can be beautiful out at the crags if you don't mind several miles of hiking on a dirt road and about two more to the rock.
This is a great resource for info about weather, temps, snow depth, etc. at Ponderosa, very near to The Needles.
ponderosa, ca. weather
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 24, 2018 - 12:00pm PT
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The more I think about it the more I want to encourage you to jump on it. There is a very good chance the weather will be excellent since the winter will be over and summer thunderstorms won’t have started yet. It may take a little longer but, hey, if climbing is as good as sex a little more time on the job is a good thing.
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Jan 24, 2018 - 02:22pm PT
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I agree with Jim
Sierra snowpack is meager this year so far if that continues a may traverse might be nice
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jan 24, 2018 - 06:31pm PT
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This May, unlike last, might be a dry one. When my partner and I gave it a go last June we encountered unheard of amounts of snow and, ironically, near-desperate heat exhaustion. Go figure!
Get after it and let us know how it goes! Just because it's been done in five days mid-winter and in as little as 17 hours by a doctor living in his van doesn't mean you won't have a rad time.
Choose your own adventure.
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