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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 29, 2017 - 09:07pm PT
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2017 - 07:10am PT
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Looking at Todd Gordon's collection and I'm coming away very impressed with the robustness of that bookshelf. No sag.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Dec 30, 2017 - 07:40am PT
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You need to know who's what you are looking at- Gordo's is for sure a solid bookcase but this is Donz'es, and thank you again godfather THE PICTURE THAT SHOWS THE BONG HANGING OFF THE DOLT PIN ( whatz that pin under "The Teton Range"- bottom Rt corner ?!)
I'll offer that the book is not that rare but the hand-out pam-phlet?! thats prolly one of less than 500.
this, 1962
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seano
Mountain climber
none
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Dec 30, 2017 - 08:08am PT
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That Fryxell guide is a treasure -- I'll have to look at it the next time I visit the AAC library.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2017 - 08:26am PT
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The thing I didn't anticipate is the 'want' to open up some of these or pull at random from those bookshelves. The 1932 Tetons book is of particular interest. Love the old Lover's Leap typed pages and that SA bouldering guide.
Not too obscure, but has memories of getting scared often.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Dec 30, 2017 - 09:26am PT
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Love the super old/basic 'guides', very cool stuff!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Dec 30, 2017 - 10:30am PT
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I'm sure Todd has all of these--he's obviously the king of guidebook owners.
But there some of the old ones I've collected over the eons. . .
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Dec 30, 2017 - 02:48pm PT
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From a John Stannard guide to Seneca Rocks.
The guide outlasted some of the rock.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Dec 30, 2017 - 06:57pm PT
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I used to have that Stannard guide--but I sent it to Jstan since
he didn't have any for himself!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 30, 2017 - 07:04pm PT
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2017 - 07:07am PT
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Spectacular stuff all around.
I, too, stood on top of the Gendarme three years before it went down. I was really freaked out when I heard it fell.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2017 - 09:05am PT
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Guidebook for a small area just north of the Lehigh Valley (PA) and the Appalachian Trail. I don't even know if this place is still open for climbing. Some famous people put up routes here including Hugh Herr, Bob DiAntonio and others. I got caught in a forest fire here in 1990 and almost ran the wrong way and would have been in big trouble if my climbing partner didn't yell down from the top of the crag and tell me the right way to go.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Dec 31, 2017 - 10:19am PT
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Mount Lemmon, Tucson AZ. This is the first guidebook I wrote, published January 1991. Eric Fazio-Ricard who wrote the large guidebooks to Mount Lemmon helped me edit this guide to Windy Point.
During the creation of the first Queen Creek guidebook I met my wife who by chance was working in a magazine publishing company. She taught me a lot about design, layouts and more and helped in the final publishing process. Published 11/1991 by Scott Hynes and Marty Karabin. Unfortunately years later due to family issues Scott hung himself with his climbing rope. I must say I did not enjoy working with Scott on this book at all. I did 90 percent of the work in its creation while he dragged his feet through the process and he never came up with any cash to pay for the printing. I guess it was necessary for me to go through this process which gave me the inspiration to create the second guide to Queen Creek Canyon. Due to the conflict that I had with Scott I ended up donating every penny that the book made to the Access Fund.
I put everything I had into the Rock Jocks guide to Queen Creek Canyon guidebook. At the same time I totally overbuilt the book. Pages are 70lb stock and the whitest paper available in the USA. The cover is thick stock with laminate coating and rounded corners. Photos were drummed scanned and bleed off of the pages. Over 100 photos and 200 illustrations were created for the book. The book cost over $25,000 to produce. At the 2000 OR show in Utah I was told that there was a guidebook poll between the editors of the climbing magazines and Chockstone press and others that awarded my Queen Creek guidebook the third greatest guide to be created to date. #1 was Smith Rock (because it was the birthplace of sport climbing, and #2 was Hueco Tanks because John Sherman had a lot of pull with the magazines, and he helped develop the bouldering V system. These days there are many amazing guidebooks out there because of better computer programs and advances in the printing process. Rock Jocks Guide to Queen Creek Canyon AZ, published 11/1996. Props to Randi Karabin and the many many others that helped. A few years ago on ebay a Queen Creek guidebook sold for $751.00. Average ebay auction final for the book is $150-$400. Amazon has it listed as a collectors item worth $60 used.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2018 - 01:30pm PT
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Who's climbed at this sh1th0le of a place?
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2018 - 07:03am PT
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Ledge Rat, nice photo. Is that Manufactured? I've also climbed at Grand Ledge in your area and enjoyed that more.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Shy of Gordo's collection, I have yet to see most of the Cali-based folks show that they have copies of the Vernon/Moser books (ie The Needles, SEKI and Domelands). Shame shame!
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