Oakdale Festival Oct 2018 Yosemite Big Wall Climbing 50s-60s

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 25, 2017 - 03:12pm PT
The North American Climbing History Archives (NACHA)and I are pleased to announce the fourth Oakdale Climbers Festival to be held October 12-14, 2018 at the Gene Bianchi Center located at 110 South 2nd Avenue Oakdale, CA 95361. The theme for 2018 is: Reflections on the Golden Age of Big Wall Climbing in Yosemite. We will be doing our best to touch on every Grade V and VI climb established in Yosemite Valley during the 1950s and 60s.

On Friday evening from 5pm to 9pm we will be reflecting on the lives and legacy of Royal Robbins and Tom Frost, guiding spirits of the Golden Age in Yosemite. After a few dedicated speakers we will be opening up the mike for thoughts and thanks from those in attendance. There will be no charge to come to the Friday evening program but we will be charging $25 admission for the rest of the weekend. The tentative speakers roster includes Jim McCarthy, Glen Denny, Joe Fitschen, Doug Robinson, Chris Jones, Ken Yager, Ron Kauk, Corey Rich, Tommy Caldwell and Dick Duane with more to come.

On Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 7pm speakers will discuss their experiences climbing during the Golden Age with image support as we have been doing in Oakdale since 2012.

This sort of comprehensive historical examination of the Golden Age of Big Wall climbing in Yosemite has never been done and the time is right.

So far George Whitmore, Bob Swift, Joe Fitschen, Glen Denny, Ed Cooper, Mike Sherrick, Don Lauria, Eric Beck, Dick Long, Chris Jones, Doug Robinson, Russ McLean and Ken Boche are on board. Come and meet these guys and hear their stories.

Tickets are available for the weekend for $25 plus service charge through Eventbrite. Eventbrite is up and working again. Do a search for Oakdale Climbers Festival once on their site. Go to the active listing with the Royal and Tom flier image still being displayed. The other listing isn't selling tickets at this time. Or use the link below.
https://www.eventbrite.com/e/oakdale-climbers-festival-2018-tickets-50716246659?aff=ebdshpsearchautocomplete
Tickets are available for the weekend for $35 at the door day of show.Please bring cash if possible to speed up admission.

Don't miss this once in a lifetime program. I couldn't be more stoked!


From Sentinel...

Ken Wilson photo

To the Nose...


Wayne Merry photo

Tom Frost photo

To the Dihedral Wall...

Hennek/Lauria photo

Tom Frost photo

To the NA Wall...

Chuck Pratt photo Frost collection

We will try and touch them all!


I am asking the speakers to appear in the following order to open up the Robbins-Frost memorial on October 12, 5-9 PM.

Jim McCarthy
Joe Fitschen
Yvon Chouinard
Glen Denny
Tamara Robbins
Chris Jones
Doug Robinson
Ken Yager
Dick Duane
Ron Kauk
Tommy Caldwell
Corey Rich

Updated Oakdale Climbers Festival 2018 Program Schedule

Saturday October 13 Doors open 9 AM

10:30- 11:00 AM Steve Grossman Introductory Remarks
11:00- 11:30 AM Bob Swift
11:30- 12:00 PM Doug Robinson
12:00- 12:30 PM Mike Sherrick
12:30- 1:30 PM George Whitmore
1:30- 3:00 PM Lunch Break
3:00- 4:00 PM Glen Denny
4:00- 5:00 PM Joe Fitschen
5:00- 6:00 PM Ed Cooper

Sunday October 14 Doors open 9 AM

10:00 – 11:00 AM Dick Long
11:00 AM- 12:00 PM Steve Roper Interview
12:00- 12:30 PM Eric Beck
12:30- 1:30 PM Don Lauria
1:30- 3:00 Lunch Break
3:00- 4:00 PM Ken Boche
4:00- 5:00 Russ McLean
5:00- 6:00 PM Chris Jones
6:00- 6:30 PM Steve Grossman Closing Remarks

See you there everyone!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Dec 25, 2017 - 03:25pm PT
Glad to hear this, Steve!
Merry Christmas to you & Mimi.
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
Dec 25, 2017 - 05:45pm PT
I’m so glad it’s back!!!!!

See you there

Susan and Michael
Mark Force

Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
Dec 25, 2017 - 05:54pm PT
Cool! Good job, Steve! Did you get the Granite Mountain guide?
TomKimbrough

Social climber
Salt Lake City
Dec 25, 2017 - 07:53pm PT
I'll try to make it, Steve.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2017 - 09:19pm PT
Mark- I did get the Lovejoy guide. Thanks so much for that.

DMT- Come and stay a while man. Where else you gotta be so damn bad?!?
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Dec 25, 2017 - 09:29pm PT
hey there say, wow, neat... :)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2017 - 11:48pm PT
A Merry Christmas to you neebee.
life is a bivouac

Trad climber
Bishop
Dec 26, 2017 - 09:58am PT
Merry Christmas to you Steve! Thanks so very much for getting this happening again!
Good on ya!
Russ
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Dec 26, 2017 - 10:34am PT
Will put it on the calander! Will be good to see familiar faces and good friends!
Peace
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Dec 26, 2017 - 02:47pm PT
hey there say, steve... thank you so much!

can't wait to see some nice shares, here, after the event, :)


edit:

ooops, as christmas is over now--

though, i can still send a happy most wonderful
new year wish, to you and your family!

:)

happy new year, of good new things...
Roots

Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
Dec 27, 2017 - 08:23am PT
Back to Top!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jan 8, 2018 - 10:41am PT
Re-back to Top bump...er...whatever.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Jan 8, 2018 - 06:43pm PT
On my calendar too. Can't wait!
mooch

Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
Jan 9, 2018 - 09:25am PT
May just have to attend this one!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 9, 2018 - 11:47pm PT
bump this to the top
and trying to keep my calendar free
11worth

Trad climber
Leavenworth & Greenwater WA
Jan 10, 2018 - 08:50pm PT
Steve, I will be there! Jim
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Jan 10, 2018 - 09:11pm PT



...........Awesome!
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Jan 10, 2018 - 11:12pm PT
Dang. I'm putting this on my calendar. You lucky bastards might get to meet the rat in person.
Fan

climber
Jan 11, 2018 - 08:46am PT
Good news! Looking forward to it.

mountain girl

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Jan 12, 2018 - 02:44pm PT
On my calendar !
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2018 - 03:38pm PT
I am pleased to add Ed Cooper to the roster to join Glen Denny in revisiting their great adventure on the Dihedral Wall in 1962.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jan 13, 2018 - 06:12pm PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/439672/Dihedral-Wall-FA-extras

In 1978, Bev Johnson was the first woman to solo El Cap by climbing the Dihedral Wall, don't forget.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jan 25, 2018 - 12:43pm PT
bump.
H

Mountain climber
there and back again
Jan 27, 2018 - 06:16pm PT
Hot Damn Steve. So glad to hear your doing it again. Thoroughly enjoyed the others. Count me in. Anyone who doesn't make to this is really missing out. Thanks for all you do Steve.


Bump for a great time in Oakdale
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 27, 2018 - 11:48pm PT
Ed Cooper, oh my.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2018 - 07:50pm PT
I am very pleased to add Pat Callis to the speakers list to come and talk about doing the Arrow Direct with Warren Harding in 1968.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Feb 4, 2018 - 04:27am PT
Pat Callis, Montana State University Regent's Professor & godfather of Gallatin Cyn area climbing. Good job, Steve.
http://www.montana.edu/news/mountainsandminds/article.html?id=17329
BooDawg

Social climber
Butterfly Town
Feb 5, 2018 - 08:18am PT
It's GREAT to see this thread. I'll be adding the FA of an obscure, but beautiful, Grade 5 that Life Is A Bivouac and I did to the 2 FA's on Sentinel that Steve asked me to highlight.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2018 - 09:42am PT
Which one did I miss?
BooDawg

Social climber
Butterfly Town
Feb 5, 2018 - 11:37pm PT
A little suspense (not the route's name tho that has nice ring to it!)... and bump.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Feb 6, 2018 - 03:24am PT
Pat is a great addition...stellar guy and still getting after it!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2018 - 07:23am PT
A dangling conversation with everyone hanging in suspense...perfect for a Big Wall program.

Anyone have contact information for Don Peterson also in Montana last I heard?
Powder

Trad climber
the Box
Feb 8, 2018 - 06:33pm PT
YES!!!!!!!! : D

Marked on my calendar. *^_^*
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2018 - 03:27pm PT
Always great to see you Powder!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2018 - 10:15am PT
Big Wall bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2018 - 09:53am PT
Tom Frost and I have decided to start of this years Oakdale Festival with a memorial to Royal Robbins the guiding spirit of the Golden Age of Yosemite climbing. See the OP for details on this program as it develops.
HILTZ

Trad climber
England
May 22, 2018 - 04:44pm PT
I last came to Oakdale in 2013 and had a great time. I've just booked my flight from the UK for this year and cannot wait to return.
I'll be looking for somewhere to stay from the 11th through to the 18th and wondered if anyone had any recommendations. I shared a nearby motel room last time but am travelling solo this year so I need to cut my costs accordingly.
mountain girl

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
May 22, 2018 - 08:27pm PT
On my calendar !

Ingrid
Robert GINN

Big Wall climber
Guadalupe
Jun 22, 2018 - 07:26pm PT
Is there any further information on the Oakdale Festival in October???

Bob Ginn
JerryA

Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
Jun 23, 2018 - 07:03am PT
Is there anyone alive who climbed a Grade V Big Wall in Yosemite Valley before Allen Steck ?
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Jun 23, 2018 - 10:35am PT
I look forward to this great event!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2018 - 10:47am PT
What sort of information do you need?

Everything is still moving forward as planned.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2018 - 06:48pm PT
JerryA- To answer your question, no.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2018 - 07:34pm PT
We have had several speakers unable to make the event but are adding Doug Robinson to the roster with more to come.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2018 - 09:58am PT
Tickets for the Festival are $25 plus service charge and are available at eventbrite.com.
Go there and do a search for Oakdale Climbers Festival 2018.
Please let me know promptly if there are any issues with buying tickets.
The Friday evening Royal Robbins memorial is open to the public and is free of charge but the weekend program requires paid admission. If you are planning on coming please buy your tickets in advance to keep the bottleneck at the door to a minimum. Tickets will be $35 on Saturday at the door with no service charge added.
See you there!
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Aug 16, 2018 - 03:37pm PT
Steve, what hotel did we all stay in the last time???
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2018 - 07:52pm PT
Lynne- Best Western Rama Inn.
Tamara Robbins

climber
not a climber, just related...
Aug 17, 2018 - 12:16am PT
Steve, I'm in flux as far as locales, but would like to attend. I will buy tickets for weekend online, and if you want help with any supplemental photos or other material feel free to contact me. Thanks, and looking forward to reuniting with friends there. Cheers.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2018 - 08:46am PT
Tamara- You and Liz are on my guest list so you don't need to buy tickets for the weekend.
bit'er ol' guy

climber
the past
Aug 17, 2018 - 11:18am PT
There's big walls in Oakdale? You must mean Oakhurst/
Tamara Robbins

climber
not a climber, just related...
Aug 17, 2018 - 05:35pm PT
Thank you, Steve, and also for the Frost post. See you in October....
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2018 - 06:03pm PT
Right back at you Tamara.
Robert GINN

Big Wall climber
Guadalupe
Aug 26, 2018 - 11:21am PT
Steve - Please contact me at beeginn@aol.com about the festival - I might be of some help... Bob Ginn
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2018 - 11:27am PT
Hey Folks- The Friday evening memorial gathering has expended to include both Royal and Tom Frost. This will be the only memorial held for Tom so don't miss it. There will be no admission fee required for the Friday evening program.
EdBannister

Mountain climber
13,000 feet
Aug 26, 2018 - 03:05pm PT
thank you for all Steve!!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2018 - 03:25pm PT
You are welcome Ed!
Bob Ginn- Check your email.
Cheers
duffer

Trad climber
Sonora, CA
Aug 26, 2018 - 04:48pm PT
I just bought a ticket for this but can't get it to print. Will I be able to get in without it?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2018 - 05:28pm PT
I will have a list on site of ticket buyers so you can get in without a ticket printed.
Alan Rubin

climber
Amherst,MA.
Aug 28, 2018 - 08:15am PT
Hi Steve, Will it be possible to purchase tickets at the door--or do you expect a 'sell out' in advance? I expect to be in the region that weekend and would like to attend, but that will likely have to be a last minute decision. Alan
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2018 - 08:34am PT
Tickets are $35 at the door day of show. Cash is best if possible to speed things up. I will put you on the guest list Al and you can take care of the admission when I see you. Just let me know how many folks may be in your party.
Cheers,
Steve Grossman
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2018 - 09:50am PT
Bump for the memory of Royal Robbins and Tom Frost- Spirits of the Golden Age. The tentative speakers roster to open up the Friday evening program includes Jim McCarthy, Glen Denny, Joe Fitschen, Doug Robinson, Ron Kauk, Tommy Caldwell and Dick Duane with more to come.
skip gaynard

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 4, 2018 - 05:52pm PT
Bought two tickets but can't print out so will just show up. Thanks
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2018 - 01:52pm PT
We got you covered.
Please spread the word out there in Saltytown.
TomKimbrough

Social climber
Salt Lake City
Sep 8, 2018 - 03:47pm PT
I bought one and it printed just fine......
Well, my computer literate wife, Barb Eastman, did help me.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2018 - 01:56pm PT
It will be great to see you Tom since I somehow missed you at the Bridwell memorial.
BooDawg

Social climber
Butterfly Town
Sep 11, 2018 - 04:22pm PT
Bump for Royal Robbins and Tom Frost. Friday night there will be a variety of presenters who will outline Royal's and Tom's lives, climbs, impacts on climbing, experiences shared, and much more. It's a free-for-all admissions for the Friday night portion of the event! Possibly like camping in C4 in the sixties...?

BE THERE!!

Alan Rubin

climber
Amherst,MA.
Sep 14, 2018 - 07:05am PT
Is there any link to information about accommodation options in and around Oakdale for the Festival? What is the food situation--is it part of the cost of the Saturday program, available for purchase at the venue, or are we on our own? Details I know, but important for someone who might be attending from afar and is unfamiliar with the area.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2018 - 02:10pm PT
Best Western Rama Inn then Motel 6 are my go to motels but others may have recommendations. Modesto is about 20 minutes away too. There will be no food at the event but we allow for a long lunch break and there are several good restaurants nearby.
How many in your party Al?
The $25 admission covers both Saturday and Sunday with the Friday memorial gathering open to the public free of charge.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2018 - 10:34am PT
I am pleased to add Chris Jones to the Festival speakers roster!
Alan Rubin

climber
Amherst,MA.
Sep 19, 2018 - 07:15am PT
Just ordered tickets. Two of us are coming. Looking forward to the Festival.
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Sep 20, 2018 - 11:10am PT
Steve, I sent you an email via Supertopo regarding the scheduling of the coming event.
SwifterA

Social climber
CA
Sep 20, 2018 - 03:15pm PT
Hi Steve,

If there's any space available I could put up some B/Ws of the El Cap Tree.

Bob

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2018 - 07:02pm PT
Are you able to come Bob? I am remiss in not reconnecting since you presented about doing the second ascent of the Lost Arrow Chimney at the first Oakdale Festival and I would be perfectly happy to have you do so again. Do you still have my email address?
SwifterA

Social climber
CA
Sep 20, 2018 - 08:38pm PT
Hi Steve-


Glad to do anything that would fit.

I'll write in the a.m. when my brain comes back to life

B
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2018 - 09:00pm PT
The Lost Arrow Chimney is the original Yosemite Big Wall. Glad to have you aboard again.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Sep 21, 2018 - 08:12am PT
Second that, STeve.
SwifterA

Social climber
CA
Sep 21, 2018 - 08:39am PT
Steve-

Remind me of your email…

busibob@mail.com

SwifterA
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2018 - 09:37am PT
Bob- Mine is scgrossman(at)msn(dot)com
I tried to get in touch through an older email of yours so that explains that.
Cheers
frostback- I appreciate your ongoing support for my work.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2018 - 08:37pm PT
Festival bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2018 - 07:58pm PT
Eventbrite is back up working again so please buy tickets there. Do a search for Oakdale Climbers Festival once your are on their site looking at events in Oakdale, CA. Sorry for the confusion or inconvenience here.
https://www.eventbrite.com/e/oakdale-climbers-festival-2018-tickets-50716246659?aff=ebdshpsearchautocomplete
SwifterA

Social climber
CA
Sep 27, 2018 - 09:20am PT
Steve-
Although I have vivid memories of many of the 2016 presentations, I can’t remember what I did or said! So please give me an idea of what I can do this time around. Should I talk? If so ~how long? Is there a system for image projection on a screen? In what format (jpeg OK?)  What media (DVD OK?)
Wall space for hanging prints?
I’ll start assembling stuff. Bob
bswiftest@mac.com
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2018 - 11:04am PT
Check your email Bob.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2018 - 11:41am PT
Bump with two weeks to go.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 3, 2018 - 06:13pm PT
Looking forward to this event. When I was passing out Tom Frost Stickers to climbers that knew his history I told them about the gathering in Oakdale. Next time we will have to have flyers at Facelift promoting future Oakdale happenings. Cheers, lynnie.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 4, 2018 - 05:30pm PT
I am making a list, yes, and checking it twice. When will a group like this ever come together again? I have a few questions I want to ask these very special climbers And I have remembered to charge my camera batteries. This is truly a once in a lifetime event! Thanks to all who are traveling to share with us their great stories.

See you Soon! Cheers, lynnie
H

Mountain climber
there and back again
Oct 5, 2018 - 12:42pm PT
I just tied to get hotel reservations. Best Western said the whole town was sold out. Anybody have extra space in there room. I'm happy to "bivy" just so I don't have to drive back and forth from Modesto!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2018 - 08:00pm PT
I am asking the speakers to appear in the following order to open up the Robbins- Frost memorial on October 12 5-9 PM.

Jim McCarthy
Joe Fitschen
Yvon Chouinard
Glen Denny
Tamara Robbins
Chris Jones
Doug Robinson
Ken Yager
Dick Duane
Ron Kauk
Tommy Caldwell
Corey Rich
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 6, 2018 - 08:08pm PT
Damn sorry I can't be there, Steve. This should be epic. I will be there in spirit. How could I not be?

Cheers all!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2018 - 11:49am PT
Oakdale Climbers Festival 2018 Program Schedule

Saturday October 13 Doors open 9 AM

10:30- 11:00 AM Steve Grossman Introductory Remarks
11:00- 11:30 AM Bob Swift
11:30- 12:00 PM Doug Robinson
12:00- 12:30 PM Mike Sherrick
12:30- 1:30 PM George Whitmore
1:30- 3:00 PM Lunch Break
3:00- 4:00 PM Glen Denny
4:00- 5:00 PM Joe Fitschen
5:00- 6:00 PM Ed Cooper

Sunday October 14 Doors open 9 AM

10:00 – 11:00 AM Dick Long
11:00 AM- 12:00 PM Steve Roper Interview
12:00- 12:30 PM Eric Beck
12:30- 1:30 PM Don Lauria
1:30- 3:00 Lunch Break
3:00- 4:00 PM Ken Boche
4:00- 5:00 Russ McLean
5:00- 6:00 PM Chris Jones
6:00- 6:30 PM Steve Grossman Closing Remarks

See you there everyone!
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 8, 2018 - 12:39pm PT
Steve, I Really Like your schedule. Looks awesome! Cheers, lynnie
CaNewt

Mountain climber
Davis, CA
Oct 9, 2018 - 08:24pm PT
Looking forward to seeing everyone. Bob Schneider
H

Mountain climber
there and back again
Oct 10, 2018 - 07:27am PT
Looks like it's going to be as good as the first one. Which was amazing. You've out done yourself Steve.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 10, 2018 - 10:51am PT
I just packed my Yosemite 50's and 60's books. :)
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 10, 2018 - 09:10pm PT
A wonderful opportunity to hear from the voices of the past .... the ones that made the Valley rock....the o-rig-in-als. The ones that created climbing in the Ditch. Take time from the busy and use your moments to come and hear their forever climbing memories. This is the History! And you can be one of the few to hear and embrace it this coming weekend.
















Tamara Robbins

climber
not a climber, just related...
Oct 11, 2018 - 01:04am PT
H... i am certain you can secure lodging in modesto or even riverbank... also likely plenty of air bnb possiblities!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 12, 2018 - 02:38pm PT
Bump
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 12, 2018 - 07:07pm PT
Damn! I wish I could be there with you all. Sadly, I'm in the middle of moving home and hearth to another country, but otherwise I'd be there!

Sad to miss it, cuz it sounds like it will be great.
ron gomez

Trad climber
Oct 13, 2018 - 06:42am PT
Thinking of all you guys in Oakdale....asking all my friends to say hi to all my friends...give each other a hug and say it's from Gomez! We ain't gettin' any younger! Oh yeah....PICTURES please...would be great to see everyone from where I'm at!
Have a bladt, be safe.
Peace
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 14, 2018 - 09:22pm PT
hopefully Lynne will post up some pix... I didn't have my camera, sorta burned out in the prep...

but it was an amazing set of presentations, still hearing from the elders who launched the Golden Era with the FA of the Nose and the Reg. Route on Half Dome... but also so the lead up climbs to doing those big walls...

and the presentation by Russ McLean on Middle Triple Peak in the Kichatna Mountains, Alaska with Charlie Porter was a pure demonstration of badassary as you can get... and one of the realizations of Chouinard's prophecy that Yosemite Climbers would go out and accomplish remarkable achievements "in the greater granite ranges."

Chris Jones amplified on this during the last talk, recalling the exploits of the team members for the first 8 ascents of the Salathé Wall, recounting what they did in Alaska, Canada, Baffin Island, the Alps, Cordillera Blanca, Patagonia and the Himalayas.

It was wonderful to listen to Bob Swift, Dick Long talk about the 1950s.

And it is always great to hear from Sherrick and Whitmore.

Doug Robinson opened up with the big view, Glen Denny, Joe Fitschen and Ed Cooper about the amazing routes that went up and then Eric Beck, Ken Boche and Russ along with Don Lauria and a cameo video of Steve Roper.

Big thanks to Steve and Mimi for making this happen... the next Oakdale is probably not before 2020... everyone is special.

john hansen

climber
Oct 14, 2018 - 10:59pm PT
I bet that was one hell of a show,, wish I could have been there.

Did any of it get video taped?
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 15, 2018 - 12:00am PT
Thanks for the great TR, Ed Hartouni! I got only a few decent pics. My camera is broken so I had to use my Fire 3 which is iffy!

What a fantastic event. Thanks Mimi and Steve!!! Every young climber should have been there to absorb the unbelievable history of the rock! You missed big time. Not just Yosemite Big Walls, but all over the world. And not just big walls but peaks too.

Friday night we celebrated the life of Tom Frost. Thanks to all who came and spoke to us about an incredibly gifted, humble human being.

And yes the Big Wall Climbers and friends can still Party! :) Saturday night was Fun!

Friendships renewed, new ones made. All around awesome!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 15, 2018 - 12:13am PT
Steve taped everything as a part of the NACHA documentation project
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 15, 2018 - 12:17am PT





Tamara Robbins

climber
not a climber, just related...
Oct 15, 2018 - 01:50am PT
Well done Steve and Mimi... Friday’s tribute to, both, Tom and dad was full of love. And agreed, Lynne, the historical content of the weekend was epic.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 15, 2018 - 05:28am PT
It hurt me to be in the hospital (hey, literally, it hurted me!) and to miss the event after looking forward to it for so long.

And now, no pix?! Well, life has problems, just like big walls, and there will be more clambakes to come.

But as has been pointed out, each one is special to a great extent. I know some of the presenters from this one and sure would have liked hearing their stories and TAKING THEIR PICTURES. (Too bad, Lynnie, about your camera. Hope you can get it fixed.)

Steverino and Mimi, sorry to have missed this one, your gigs are always FUN and inspiring. Thanks for the efforts and the love.

Tamara Robbins

climber
not a climber, just related...
Oct 15, 2018 - 10:06am PT
Mouse - there were plenty of pics being taken!! Perhaps many are still traveling- or recovering - for instance mom and I both slept till 10 this morn! I’ll post the shot I took of speakers (I was supposed to be in it but didn’t realize it till after due to the absurdity of my being in that group 😅)
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 15, 2018 - 10:12am PT
Hi, Tamara! How's the "attitude?" Did you see Ken Yager? How 'bout the size of that chicken? :0)


I really dig Whitmore's grin. Too bad Wayne Merry wasn't around.
Tamara Robbins

climber
not a climber, just related...
Oct 15, 2018 - 10:40am PT
Ha! Mouse, the attitude is great even though not on fire lately.... I passed a Fireball semi on my way to the Bay Area last week and nearly crashed trying to flag it down (joking!) (about nearly crashing)...

Yager was around all weekend!

Word is that quite a party occurred on Saturday night/Sunday morning, but I swear I had nothing to do with it. Ask Lynne. ;)

Oh and as for that chicken.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=rT4UmxqoFt4

Ron G, lets get together sometime in the next 5 weeks while I'm down that way? I'd like to check out Woodson....
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 15, 2018 - 01:49pm PT
OK! Howdy all. Just arrived home. Most of my pictures are sub par, but I will post them if it's all we have. The composition isn't bad, they are just weird grainy.

Here are several pictures with quite a few of the presenters and ad hoc speakers.


From left to right:(?) Ken Bouche, Don Lauria, Russ McLean, Chris Jones, Bob Swift, Joe Fitschen, in back Steve Grossman, Jim McCarthy, back is Glen Denny and Eric Beck.

Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
Oct 15, 2018 - 01:53pm PT
Did Ken sing his marvelous song, the one he did at the Bridwell memorial?
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Oct 15, 2018 - 02:05pm PT
What a line up.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 15, 2018 - 02:10pm PT
Ken sang it Saturday night at the party I was most honored of pretty much any party in my life to attend.


Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 15, 2018 - 02:14pm PT
Mouse, we All wondered where you were and so missed your wit and photo skills. Please, next time email me and let me know s'up. Healing prayers and hugs!
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 15, 2018 - 02:38pm PT

Front from left: Dick Long, Steve Grossman, Mike Sherrick, Back from left: Ken Bouche, Don Lauria, Chris Jones, Russ McLean, Bob Swift, Dave Yerian (the fan club), Joe Fitschen, Jim McCarthy, George Whitmore, Eric Beck.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 15, 2018 - 02:59pm PT
Friday Evening included speakers honoring Tom Frost and Royal Robbins. Mimi De Gravelle-Grossman, who with Steve made this event happen, is one of my favorite human beings!!!



Ron Kauk, Don Lauria and Yvon Chouinard pictured with "H" also gave a wonderful tribute to Royal and Tom. Thank you Guys!





Tamara Robbins

climber
not a climber, just related...
Oct 15, 2018 - 03:24pm PT
Anders, he also sang it Friday night at the RR and Frost memorial 😉
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 15, 2018 - 03:49pm PT












Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 15, 2018 - 06:38pm PT
After I spent the weekend listening and looking.....I would say these are the real Stone Masters.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Oct 15, 2018 - 06:39pm PT
Hey Dave Yerian,

Wall in the spring, eh?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Oct 15, 2018 - 09:44pm PT
Felt like I should have gone. so many stories to hear! ...and then there was the clear sunny forecast and rocks in the mtns.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 15, 2018 - 10:06pm PT
Munge, you missed a once in a life time experience. I had thoughts of not going. So glad I did.

It's like, you can't imagine how great a climb or an event is until you do it or go to it. The spoken facts and stories will be gone unless the tribe takes them to heart, listens and records them. And the climbs, oh holy wow. The climbers sorting out what they will do and when, creating gear as they go. The shoes they wore on the routes they did.....omg! If you have sticky rubber today you can climb to the moon. :)
BooDawg

Social climber
Butterfly Town
Oct 16, 2018 - 07:53am PT
This was quite a gathering where we heard great stories, renewed old friendships and made some new ones, and generally had a wonderful weekend. Here are some pictures; I wish I'd taken more...

From Friday night where Royal and Tom were the focus of choice words...











Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 16, 2018 - 05:28pm PT
If you could put the Oakdale, "Legends of the Big Walls" Climberfest this past weekend to music......this would be it! I am the bald guy in the back with the tambourine. :)

Please open, it's awesome, legends of the legends, "Hey Jude" with Paul McCartney and Elton John and more. Just like our Big Wall Legends!

My link didn't work. Click below on Mouse's. Thanks!!!


mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 16, 2018 - 06:03pm PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]

There. Made it better, Lynnie.
Love it!!!
skip gaynard

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 16, 2018 - 09:52pm PT
skip gaynard

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 16, 2018 - 10:12pm PT
skip gaynard

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 16, 2018 - 10:14pm PT
skip gaynard

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 16, 2018 - 10:16pm PT
skip gaynard

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 16, 2018 - 10:29pm PT
skip gaynard

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 16, 2018 - 10:30pm PT
maus

Trad climber
Seattle
Oct 17, 2018 - 04:54pm PT
Lynne, in your photo of George Whitmore, the unidentified lady is his wife, Helen. We had burgers together at McDonald's on Friday night after we found everything else was closed. They are just a lovely couple. Great weekend for all who attended!
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 18, 2018 - 12:16pm PT
Thanks, maus, I have fixed!
Alan Rubin

climber
Amherst,MA.
Oct 18, 2018 - 12:32pm PT
As a token east coast attendee (I think that Joe Fitschen was the only other)I want to add my praise for this great event and thanks to Steve and Mimi (and any others involved)for the hard work of organizing it. I, too, wish it had been more heavily attended and by the younger generations--though it was a beautiful weekend. It was a really unique chance to meet, chat with, and hear presentations by, so many great folks who were highly influential not only in Yosemite climbing, but on the sport throughout the country, and the wider world as well....all with so many wonderful stories!!! Next year , hopefully, something in the Gunks.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 18, 2018 - 01:25pm PT
I think that the event would be more heavily attended if it was held during a climbing “shoulder season.” Take note of the dates for the Banff Film Festival and the Piolet d’Or. They are held in Banff and Chamonix during times when there is little else to do.

I think this is especially true in regards to attracting younger climbers. Weekends in September and October are prime time for climbing. The last weekend in November or the first in December should be considered as they fall in between climbing and ski season.

You might also want to consider a location easier for people to get to. An urban location has good airport facilities and a large local population to draw on. Being close to a climbing area is not a plus.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2018 - 08:23pm PT
A huge thanks to all of our speakers and loyal participants who made possible another fantastic Oakdale Festival in 2018! Come showtime I have as much fun as everyone else in the house. Big thanks to Ed Whittle for handling the AV details smoothly.

Jim- Being able to get over Tioga Pass is crucial for our attendees and speakers so anything later than mid-October isn't predictable enough.
Oakdale has been the venue for this event so that Tom Frost would be sure to come and join in the fun. He was there in spirit this year and I feel like NACHA has several more Yosemite and California related shows to do here. The town is quickly becoming a bit more hip with good restaurants staying open later that 9 PM which has been a problem in years past. This year we ended the weekend programming at 7 PM to address this.

To do an event in the Bay Area would triple the overhead and Oakdale is only a couple of hours from Oakland or Sacramento both affordable destinations on Southwest Airlines, the best carrier for climbers with a lot of luggage.

Getting younger climbers in the house is an ongoing challenge but we have had stars such as Alex Honnold and Mayan Smith-Gobat to appeal to a younger audience without much success despite superb program content.
How many climbers remember their weekend of climbing a year down the road? If you choose to come to a NACHA Festival it is a once in a lifetime experience that I guarantee will stay with you.

We just need to get the word out better which was a bit late this year as I had to quickly shift gears to expand the memorial on Friday evening to include both Tom and Royal as it turned out. Small Festivals that don't require renting a hall such as those in climbing shops like Neptune's in Boulder are a breeze and still offer great content in an after hours and consequently much briefer format.

All of the presentations are recorded to be shared with the climbing public once NACHA gets a bit further down the road. The Oakdale Festivals have also allowed the Flatlander Films crew (Tom Seawell, Jeff Wiant and Craig Flax) to capture some very valuable interview footage relating to Tom Frost for their documentary. The spirit of camaraderie and respect in the room is truly phenomenal.

Mimi and I just set the table for these esteemed presenters and they all did an outstanding job sharing their experiences and character with us. Very hearty fare indeed!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 19, 2018 - 10:32am PT
How many climbers remember their weekend of climbing a year down the road?

the weekend of 10/27/2012 Eric and I went up the full route, Candy Mountain after working on the pitches throughout the year...

It's a great route and I was totally into it, and it was getting late in the year to do the full run-up, something like 10 pitches, we were racing the weather and the day length.

It meant missing the Oakdale Climber Festival that year, and while many people I knew were disappointed that I didn't attend, thinking back on it, many of the stories told are a remembrance of a "weekend of climbing" decades later.


I wrote about this climb, first as a pitch, A Golden Pitch then in an Alpinist piece.

Here is an image 1/16/2012 where we are going up to remove fixed lines, it was snowing, Linda is about to leave... not the usual scene of frolic in the "warm California Sun"


So that's probably at least a year's worth of work on a project, not continuous, but still a relief not having to look at the cliff, every time you're there, and think, "gee, we should finish that climb." And given the events of 2013 these climbs have an importance greater than they would have had otherwise.

My own "Oakdale Festival" worthy memories, and as I said elsewhere, climbers have to climb.

I remember it well...
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Oct 21, 2018 - 12:42pm PT
Posted as "Bump."
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 21, 2018 - 01:27pm PT

How many climbers remember their weekend of climbing a year down the road? If you choose to come to a NACHA Festival it is a once in a lifetime experience that I guarantee will stay with you.

So, it’s better, than climbing?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2018 - 07:49pm PT
I am not kicking sand in the face of going climbing just trying to offer a solid entertainment alternative. If these shows had been going on back when I was climbing regularly I would have come to them and figured on climbing on either side.
A weekend rolls by in the wink of an eye, Seeker.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2018 - 08:36pm PT
Your brain is not the boss>>>>----------->$$$
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 21, 2018 - 10:57pm PT
This particular Oakdale Festival was unique beyond words. Will write more tomorrow, but I am more than glad I was there from start to finish.

And this from a subliminal climber.....:)
HeschMonster

Trad climber
Morro Bay
Oct 22, 2018 - 11:16am PT

"How many climbers remember their weekend of climbing a year down the road? If you choose to come to a NACHA Festival it is a once in a lifetime experience that I guarantee will stay with you."

Yep, I'll second this. Even showing up late on friday it was still a treat I'll not soon (nor ever) forget. Thanks for organizing Steve, can't wait for Tom's photo book!

As steve mentioned on subject of dining, Ravi's is excellent as an afterparty location (excellent food there!) and a made a great end to an awesome evening. Also, hey Yager, thanks for the tip on that bivy spot across from the Bug, it ended up being perfect!

CH~
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 22, 2018 - 07:47pm PT
To finish my above post...

Friday night truly celebrated the lives of Tom Frost and Royal Robbins. It was a great evening with smiles and cheer as stories were told of these two men and who they were to the climbing community, their families and friends. Love was shared and many pictures taken for remembrance.

The next two days are difficult for me to put into words. I wish the young climbing generation would have put down their electronics and climbing shoes, turned out and tuned into what the real life of the rock and ice were for their predecessors and could be for their very own future. Not being judgmental, it's just hard for me to process their loss, and anyone that did not come to this event lost something special that should now be stored away in their heart, soul and mind.

Saturday and Sunday I sat in the back of the auditorium surrounded by notepads for the stories and books I hoped to have signed by legends including Bob Swift. I wanted to be alone. This is still a new life venue for me. I don't have the background and life context you all have. I needed to soak it all in with no distractions. And I did.

For two days my brain and being absorbed the most incredible stories told by the ones that went on adventures that pushed limits and they returned. Some of their friends did not. Sunday I was like a bloated Sponge Bob not knowing how to retain anymore of the adventure and history of first ascents in crazy, sometimes remote places. No, it was not all about the Valley. Russ Mclean told a story about an Alaskan peak that was epic.
Really every story was one that needed to be reckoned with and absorbed. What these climbers did with little "real" gear and gnarly goals was so serious, beyond today's climbers belief ..... except for A. Honnald.
So wrung out was I at the end of the weekend it took me a few days to process these incredible feats and my brain to recover from all I had seen and heard.

A Mega thanks to Mimi and Steve!! Many do not realize the extent they go to, to make these happen. I do and I love you!

lynnie



Robert GINN

Big Wall climber
Guadalupe
Oct 23, 2018 - 07:39am PT
The Oakedale gathering was enjoyable - Seeing those from the past and hearing the story. Sorry about the delay in getting some few images out but the elections have kept me traveling - BUT more to dome.
Robert GINN

Big Wall climber
Guadalupe
Oct 23, 2018 - 07:44am PT
Steve - Plese correct me if I have names wrong: beeginn@aol.com
Robert GINN

Big Wall climber
Guadalupe
Oct 23, 2018 - 07:50am PT
Fellow photographer and climber - Ed Cooper!!!?
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 23, 2018 - 07:59am PT
Wonderful shots, RG!

Stirring words, Lynnie!
Robert GINN

Big Wall climber
Guadalupe
Oct 23, 2018 - 08:43am PT
We all need to thank Steve for making this happen!!! I hope you all do so.
Robert GINN

Big Wall climber
Guadalupe
Oct 23, 2018 - 08:55am PT
(It seems a 'post' was lost someplace out 'there'... Here's Mike Sherrik from Oakdale on Saturday. More later of the 1200 shot...
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 23, 2018 - 08:58am PT
Great Pictures! I think it's Sherrick....
Tamara Robbins

climber
not a climber, just related...
Oct 23, 2018 - 03:49pm PT
Definitely Mike. Steve, been talking to several climbers down here in San Diego area, and many would have attended with knowledge. Have some thoughts when you want em - you know how to reach me. Thanks again for an extraordinary event!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2018 - 04:54pm PT
Nice shots Bob!
You were definitely busy down there in front.
Thanks for shooting so diligently.
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Oct 23, 2018 - 11:38pm PT
Any update on when the Tom Frost documentary film will be finished?
Robert GINN

Big Wall climber
Guadalupe
Oct 24, 2018 - 09:48pm PT
Here is a younger climber who was interesting to listen to: At 75 I can only dream of what he does, and what I can't even dream of trying!!!
Robert GINN

Big Wall climber
Guadalupe
Oct 24, 2018 - 09:54pm PT
Dave Yerian was intereting when up front, but more so between speakers and at the breaks... Thanks - He made me smile!
Tamara Robbins

climber
not a climber, just related...
Oct 25, 2018 - 06:06pm PT
Yes Caldwell's name is spelled correctly - and that's a fabulous shot of Dave Yerian (note spelling ;) )!!
Robert GINN

Big Wall climber
Guadalupe
Oct 26, 2018 - 12:06pm PT
Here's one of Ron Kauk from Okdale. If only there had been a bit more lite - SO - I went out and bought a larger LED panel(s) - 3 actually...
HILTZ

Trad climber
England
Dec 9, 2018 - 01:45pm PT
I add to this somewhat belatedly as since landing back in the UK I have been ill constantly. Too much aircon on the plane then the damp Uk weather has laid me low for weeks.
Landing in SF at 4pm put me in four and a half hours of traffic before I found my AirBnB in Oakdale. On each of the three days of the festival I was made very welcome by Steve and Mimi and everyone else that I met. Some even remembered me from 2013 and my table full of books that I brought from the UK to have signed was of great interest to many, in particular my copy of Climbers by Jim Herrington.
As a collector I found it so easy to have my books signed and everyone was very gracious. It's sometimes not quite so easy in the UK.
As an old and never very bold climber it was a real joy to see and hear all the speakers and pay tribute to Tom and Royal. on my last visit Tom had been particularly kind and welcoming and at that time was corresponding with a friend of mine back home. It was terribly saddening not to be able to chat with him again.
The folk that I promised emails to, I will now get to it before Christmas.
Heck of a job organising something like this and great for me to see, hear and speak with so many legends.
Shwangunks in 2020 Steve?
Many thanks to you all, I truly had a memorable time.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Dec 9, 2018 - 07:23pm PT
Glad you are well again! Oakdale was wonderful! Thanks to Mimi and Steve who made it happen! And thanks to all and came and made it the great event it was! lynnie
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2019 - 12:15pm PT
Meeting remarkable climbers and sharing their stories and love of climbing and community is what these NACHA Festivals are all about. So glad that you fine folks had fun as entertainment is the point.
Colin- I hope that you tracked down the elusive Roper in your post Festival tour of the Bay Area. Cheerio mate and a Happy New Year to you and yours.
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