Sketchy climbers you've seen in Joshua Tree

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Climbnrok

Trad climber

Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 11, 2017 - 12:54pm PT

Walk up to do SW Corner of Headstone Sunday afternoon.

We find two guys top roping off just the last bolt before the unprotected top out. The top climber "warns" us that there aren't any more bolts past that. I looked down and his belayer is using an ATC clipped to a gear loop (not the full strength kind). I backed up the ATC with my draw while his buddy was hanging from the single bolt. Belayer pointed to his friends top roping cryptic and said "That's how they told me to do it".

I look over at the cryptic crew and the belayer there was using a standard ATC (on the belay loop thank god) but taking his hand completely off the brake rope every time he took up slack. I pointed that out and he said "that's how I was taught". Surprisingly he wasn't pissed so I showed him how to belay.

As they were packing up they were talking about what they were going to do when they got back to the Marine base.

Next group shows up as we are doing cryptic. Dude looks like he knows what he's doing and we joke about seeing dangerous stuff as he sets off on SW corner. When I top out cryptic I see his extended anchor carabiner cross loaded over an edge as his friends are top roping on it.

At least there wasn't any actual poop up there this time.

David Knopp

Trad climber

Dec 11, 2017 - 01:22pm PT

saw a guy top roping with his buddies on POD, on the Monolith at Pinnacles-harness full on backwards. Then watched him almost pitch off that little diving board below the regular route struggling to get his shoes on.
I think these were the same bros who thought they could rap off portent from the top with a single rope.

oops did you say sketchy josh climbers....

Climbnrok

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2017 - 01:51pm PT

No problem. Lets just say one of those dude's name was Joshua and call it good.

caughtinside

Social climber

Oakland, CA

Dec 11, 2017 - 02:04pm PT

I saw someone set up a big 2 rope TR on White Lightning. They were fresh from the RRR and psyched to put their know-how from the clinic to good use.

Well, first climber gets to the crux, which is not that high off the ground, can't do it. Mucho stretch out, enough to stretch all the way to the ground, where she landed lightly. A nice 15' or so TR fall? that was it.

Also witnessed a gal lead the Right V, with all her cams sticking out at 90 degrees. She did the hard part but pitched off the top, somehow flipped, and came to a stop upside down, two feet off the ground. yikes.

climber

Dec 11, 2017 - 02:15pm PT

These days I think these situations are best left to Darwinism, because the next time when things go bad for them they’ll say YOU taught ‘em that way!

looking sketchy there...

Social climber

Lassitude 33

Dec 11, 2017 - 02:28pm PT

Poor instruction, transitioning from gym to outdoors, or just inexperience. It is always a delicate situation to point out dangerous practices. Still, given the large number of newer climbers and increasing accidents, it is probably best to kindly say something and gauge the reaction. If receptive, giving good advice is always warranted.

Reilly

Mountain climber

The Other Monrovia- CA

Dec 11, 2017 - 03:12pm PT

GET THE FUK OUT OF THERE AS FAST AS POSSIBLE...

WERD! One of these days somebody will get sued for being nearby
and not saying something.

StahlBro

Trad climber

San Diego, CA

Dec 11, 2017 - 03:48pm PT

I try to be helpful, but if they start getting irritated I leave them to it.

I did tell a parent that was not taking feedback very well that I wasn't going to leave until they proved they knew how to tie a figure 8 correctly. They had tied their kid in wrong on Double
Dip after setting up a top rope. I probably should have checked the anchor too.

Sometimes I get the feeling people don't really understand the consequences of making a mistake. I am thankful that this was one of the first things I was taught.

bit'er ol' guy

climber

the past

Dec 11, 2017 - 04:29pm PT

I always say something. It's a good opportunity to get out my frustration w all the nubes screwing everything up. Last time I was at Josh, I saw some Gym-know-it-at-Hippies w 3 dogs sketching trying to get to the first bolt on.....I can't remember the name...some grainy slab "Hey idiot what the #@*& are you doing? The rope is backward in your GRIGRI, your going to #@%*ing die" The rope kept jamming and almost pulled off the leader several times. It was at this time that his belayer, Troll-Dreadlock-Girl pointed out that that I was drunk and soloing, which I was true, but that's not the point. The leader then attempted to down climb but fell from about 15' and broke his ankle. It was nasty. I laughed in his face. What a dick! I told him he got what he deserved. Then I downed my last old E and soloed their route. As I passed the first bolt I yelled down over the leaders screams of pain and Troll girls cries for help to Get the %$#@ out of here and never come back.

Reilly

Mountain climber

The Other Monrovia- CA

Dec 11, 2017 - 04:33pm PT

^^^^^ NOICE! BwaHaHaHa! Post of the week! #localsonly!
You shoulda added that your being drunk was better than them being
in the State of Denial.

climber

away from the ground

Dec 11, 2017 - 04:54pm PT

bit'er ol' guy

climber
the past

Dec 11, 2017 - 04:29pm PT
I always say something. It's a good opportunity to get out my frustration w all the nubes screwing everything up. Last time I was at Josh, I saw some Gym-know-it-at-Hippies w 3 dogs sketching trying to get to the first bolt on.....I can't remember the name...some grainy slab "Hey idiot what the #@*& are you doing? The rope is backward in your GRIGRI, your going to #@%*ing die" The rope kept jamming and almost pulled off the leader several times. It was at this time that his belayer, Troll-Dreadlock-Girl pointed out that that I was drunk and soloing, which I was true, but that's not the point. The leader then attempted to down climb but fell from about 15' and broke his ankle. It was nasty. I laughed in his face. What a dick! I told him he got what he deserved. Then I downed my last old E and soloed their route. As I passed the first bolt I yelled down over the leaders screams of pain and Troll girls cries for help to Get the %$#@ out of here and never come back.

If this is true, I love you.
If it’s just a quick dramatization another day in the life in JT, I still kinda want to be your friend.

StahlBro

Trad climber

San Diego, CA

Dec 11, 2017 - 04:56pm PT

B 'o G is on a roll.

Russ would be proud...

fear

Ice climber

hartford, ct

Dec 11, 2017 - 05:08pm PT

Cool story bro....

clockclimb

Trad climber

Orem, Utah

Dec 11, 2017 - 05:18pm PT

I see people sticking cams into cracks at a 90 degree angle all the time. Do they have no mentors teaching them? Have they never read an article/book/instruction sheet/youtube video on placing cams?
Often they are very good climbers who seem otherwise technically competent.
I guess if you are absolutely determined not to place stoppers you either run it out or do the above stupid trick in shallow placements.