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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 10, 2017 - 01:32pm PT
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I have just looked at it from the road, and need to walk up there and check it out.
Looks like your standard, steep diehedral, with lots of stemming and small fingers.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Dec 10, 2017 - 01:45pm PT
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Climb it and find out Geezz.
YUR
GONNA
DIE>;)
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Dec 10, 2017 - 02:49pm PT
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I got the on-sight on that route as a solid ~10b climber. I was so proud of myself, I could never downgrade it. It's kind of a different experience than, say, the L ski track at 11a, though...
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2017 - 03:04pm PT
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"It's kind of a different experience than, say, the L ski track at 11a, though... "
How so?
I think is pretty pumpy at the beginning, and if you blow the clip of the bolt,,,,,not good.
Pretty cruise after the bolt.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 10, 2017 - 03:52pm PT
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I did it fifteen or so years ago and thought it was a tad soft relative to other routes of that grade at JT....great climb. As said upthread it definetly isn’t as hard as Bircheff/Williams.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Dec 10, 2017 - 06:39pm PT
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Bachar/Yerian!?
Peace
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 10, 2017 - 07:37pm PT
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Who's saying it's .11b?
The stemming is trivial compared to Snake Book. The top out is a bit strenuous, like Josh .10d. But since most climbers seem to think the stemming is the crux...
Whatever, but no way .11b.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Dec 10, 2017 - 08:42pm PT
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Like WAY long!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Dec 10, 2017 - 11:39pm PT
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has it been lead clean yet? might be able to snag the FA
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Dec 11, 2017 - 03:44am PT
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No, its .11a
What's up with the constant grade inflation???
Spencer & Leonard freed it in 1978, probably in EBs, and called it .11a.
With micro-cams and modern footwear, we should be down-grading it to .10c or so.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Dec 11, 2017 - 04:20am PT
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1st of all, what was the top pitch of "Figures" rated?
The local, lowlife crew seemed out to kill travelers in 1979-80
Watusi,seemed like Head Jester?, I cant recall? Iwas under the stiff thumb of a crazy midget hippy and his scarcrow friend, climbing with them,on acid, was safer (with them) than not.
After 4 days of puking,
I still wanted to climb
yeah, I seem to remember a few climbs that came Quote " recommended", un-quote
Hart of Darkness . . ./)?oh - fixe'd it(\
there was good fun on something called Bambi Eats Godzilla?
& 5.10d, 11a/b, ? they were apparently interchangeable. and could well be .11c if you are short , like . . . . . Lynne
(GNO ME)
LOOSE LIPS
9?{[Ef U, .10d]})Getting up /offthat shjt nearly killed me!
nearer .12 than .11
If Some one wants to GNO ME, go check out "Pocket Veto",
I led that fresh, ground-up with AB & TG, on-sight, before the bolt mid crux,
and felt at the time was much more representative of easy , "a" or "b" 5.10 climbing.
We, Big Al, Todd & I Had wanted to call it "OleLimpdic Rings", but Todd knew that would not fly with ole'ever-prudish R Vogel, so Ronnie Raygun Was in the White House, he was talking of taking liberties line item by item, his pocket veto. . . The idea that if the name got put in it would get the chop, from the guide book, hence, a double entendre'- Pocket Veto.)
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Dec 11, 2017 - 08:13am PT
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has it been lead clean yet? might be able to snag the FA
Huh???
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 11, 2017 - 08:26am PT
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10 c/d is about right, unless the ants attack. Then it is solid 11a.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 11, 2017 - 08:29am PT
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The quality of a climb is far more important than it’s arbitrary rating. It’s a really fun climb...go do it!
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nathanael
climber
CA
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Dec 11, 2017 - 08:47am PT
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No it's not but don't tell anyone, it keeps the crowds down.
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Dec 11, 2017 - 10:14am PT
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wtf, i thought this thread was going to be about how sandbagged the thing is... /:
bigger WTF is wtf is with the fall that guy took!?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 11, 2017 - 11:07am PT
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Hmmm, this fall seems a little long to me.
Hell of a place to come off. Was that dude in over his head or what? Good thing that top piece held or it would have been time for the slambulance (or more likely the coroner's van.)
When climbing started getting popular and I saw the crap people were doing I couldn't figure out why it wasn't full on carnage. I still can't.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Dec 11, 2017 - 11:17am PT
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Who cares what the grade is? J Tree seems ready made for grading discussions due to the inconsistencies found there.
Kris' comments are valid and I expect to see more injuries there as time goes on. Going from the gym to outdoors is a big leap
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