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L
climber
It's a Bear Affair
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I like the spider pics!
Lots of these handsome fellers hanging around.
I love both East and West...but the West has a bit more adventure to it IMHO.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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I love both East and West...but the West has a bit more adventure to it IMHO.
Interesting view, I've heard others say the same.
I wonder whether people who think the West Side is more adventurous have climbed at The Yaks, The Frog, or The Hand (as examples).
These are certainly East Side crags. And they contain some of the most adventurous climbing in the park. They aren't very close to the car though and so aren't as frequently visited.
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L
climber
It's a Bear Affair
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Good point, Mtnyoung.
I'm relatively new to climbing in the Pinns and certainly haven't done enough to speak as an expert; it was just a first impression.
Looking forward to eventually getting on a couple of those climbs you mentioned.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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...climbed at The Yaks, The Frog, or The Hand
Over a period of 30 years I've led every route at these three crags with two exceptions (both at The Yaks; one is 5.11b and probably beyond me now, the other is a 5.10c which the first ascent party tells me will still be pushed higher and I'm waiting).
I think about some of these routes and just shake my head. I don't know that you could pay me to lead Tuff again (on The Frog), or even Orion (at Yaks Wall). Orion is "only" 5.8, although in fairness it's probably really 5.9 and I'm seriously considering regrading it to that in the new book. But not all 5.8s (or 5.9s) are created equal. It's a very, very serious lead. I'm happy to have done it once and had that high adventure (I led it all). But, like I said above, I'd never lead it again ;)
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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^^^
Well that's pretty damn funny.
After my last post I thought about Orion and whether I'd given it an "R" sub-rating in the 2007 guidebook. So I looked it up and I had.
I also noticed that I had already bumped it up to 5.9 (from 5.8+ in David Rubine's guide).
Human memories are interesting things....
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Would like to climb on the West side, my only trip being to the East.
Do I need to get a more up to date guide?
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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^^^^
Since I suspect that the guidebook pictured is older than you are, yes, you should get a more up-to-date book.
Try maybe the Chuck Richards, 1974 book ;)
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Dec 27, 2017 - 08:35am PT
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Wow, first I've seen of that old Sierra Club guidebook! What a score.
I thought the Roper guide was the first. Shows you what I know.
As for first routes, do like I did on my first trip and hit Disco Wall. Why start on any lesser quality rock?
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mynameismud
climber
backseat
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Dec 27, 2017 - 09:52am PT
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There is plenty of adventure to be had on either side of the Pinnacles. The East Side is known for Bear Gulch and the West Side is known for the Balconies. If you climb in the 5.11 range and want sport climbing hit Bear Gulch. If you like bolts spaced a bit further apart and want sustained two pitch climbs hit the Balconies.
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Dec 27, 2017 - 10:30am PT
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Randy,
that's the 1955 David Hammack guide which cost a whopping $0.50. Lot's of great stuff in there. Interesting route names for the climbs on the Monolith which didn't survive the test of time and also the two Yaks which are referred to in that guide as being the East Yak and West Yak. They must have moved a bit over the years because now they are the North Yak and South Yak(changed in the 1974 Richards guide).
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2017 - 12:56pm PT
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Tectonic shifts on Yak moves or just rubble migration patterns? ;)
Randy, you should visit if for the hiking and condors alone.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Dec 27, 2017 - 04:49pm PT
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When you are really hungry, try snake and bake. Yummy
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Dec 28, 2017 - 07:50pm PT
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Haven't been on ST for awhile. Great to see people enjoying Pinnacles as this was one of my early stomping grounds from the late 70’s through the 80’s. Lots of adventures to be had on both sides of the park. Like at most areas the 80/20 rule applies. Lots to explore when you get away from the crowds. Cool to see the pics of our route Electric Blue. I remember it took some time to drill. Peace!
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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Dec 29, 2017 - 06:08pm PT
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You know Alex I'm psyched about Pinnacles for all the reasons you mention about people hating on it. F*#k them, they're closed minded and silly.
Bless Brad Young-he showed me how to drill a bolt as we wormed our way up some mangy 30 foot flared slot that likely will never be climbed again.i love going there cause there are no crowds except one or two spots, the history is vivid-imagine John Salathe leading his route on the Hand when you try it and are peering yr pants finding the 3rd bolt, oh it's only 5.6, hahaha. And in t he spring it gets so green-sure some of that is poison oak, but still...
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hellroaring
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Dec 30, 2017 - 01:34pm PT
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Oh yeah, poison oak. Mr Knopp when are we going back to Yaks Wall or Feather Canyon?? Get your cortisone shot ready...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Man, they gots some kinda drilling probs at Pinns!
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monolith
climber
state of being
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Why not both sides? Took only an hour to get to Lava Falls from the east side on new years day, then did some east side climbs.
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tb.in.sf
Trad climber
San Francisco
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I always liked West better. For a camping alt: cross the Salinas Valley and head up Arroyo Seco Rd to the campground up there, a worthwhile little spot in itself with endless hiking up in those mountains.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2018 - 02:30pm PT
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No question. Definitely the south side is the best side.
Don't tell me you all don't know about the southern entrance?!?!?!?
Have fun at MoM weekend ya'll!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Apr 20, 2018 - 05:46pm PT
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I'm going Sunday with my crew for the day, prolly the shade at Crud and Mud. Infants to fossils.
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