East Side of Pinnacles or West Side of Pinnacles?

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 65 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Dec 7, 2017 - 05:19pm PT
I get it Jim. I love guidebooks and buy them even if I'm only going to be there for a day. You're much closer to normal than I am.

You should have that guidebook though. I'll tell you what, email me a snail mail address and I'll send you the book with my compliments - just because of who you are. Email me at:

mtnyoung AT gmail.com
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2017 - 05:21pm PT
learning to place cams while on the last pitch of Machete Direct

I guess that's one way to do it. Lol
Jody

climber
Occupied Territory
Dec 7, 2017 - 05:23pm PT
Jim, when you get it, look at the photo on page 5 and see if you recognize the hardman in the pic.
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Dec 7, 2017 - 05:32pm PT
Be careful, the locals may follow you back to your home town.

Credit: clinker
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 7, 2017 - 05:43pm PT
Mtnyoung, thanks for the offer. I'll pay for it if you autograph it. I'm intrigued by what the area has to offer. Leaving for Patagonia in a couple of days. I'll order when I return the first of March.
Jody, I'll check out page 5.
hellroaring

Trad climber
San Francisco
Dec 7, 2017 - 06:26pm PT
It would probably have to be a dry camp, so you would have to carry in water, but I think it would be pretty cool if Pinnacles had one or two backcountry campsites.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 7, 2017 - 06:30pm PT
If you do the tarantulas tartare you’ll get enough fluids. Same with condor eggs.
Jody

climber
Occupied Territory
Dec 7, 2017 - 06:39pm PT
I think it would be pretty cool if Pinnacles had one or two backcountry campsites.


It does. :)
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Dec 7, 2017 - 06:40pm PT

If you do the tarantulas tartare you’ll get enough fluids. Same with condor eggs.

Bad plan.

The tarantulas are only out during October and November. That's too short a time-span to be a reliable source of liquid or nutrition. And there's only been one or two condor eggs laid in the park each year. Same result.

Starvation and/or dehydration is inevitable....
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Sacramento, CA
Dec 7, 2017 - 08:36pm PT
Neither. Next question.
Zay

climber
Monterey, Ca
Dec 7, 2017 - 08:39pm PT
Mungeclimber,
Thanks! Lol that climb was a huge first for me. Also my first experience with aid: stepping on a single runner to clip the next bolt and do an almost one arm pull up to clip a draw to my harness and sit for a second. Partner and I agreed to swing leads so I also got my first experience with runout 5.7 (second pitch) and that fourth pitch is just fantastic! Anyways thanks for taking to time to read my first supertopo posts, I've been following y'all for a while. Cheers.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2017 - 10:48pm PT
Jebus, stay strong! Don't succumb to the draw of the choss.

Clearly Zay is a lost cause. ;)

Save yourself!
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Dec 7, 2017 - 11:09pm PT
Credit: BruceHildenbrand

Crafty little devil keeping guard over the Balconies!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Sacramento, CA
Dec 8, 2017 - 04:36am PT
Just lulzing, munge.

I like Pinnacles, but 3 hours drive for me seems to have cut that right back.

I like the spider pics!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2017 - 06:10am PT
:)

I hear ya. Lot of good stone just up the hill. Hard to justify, but keep it in mind for dry stone as we head into winter.

Oh another reason for East side is the amazing Yaks wall!

I still don't know where the name originated from.
L

climber
It's a Bear Affair
Dec 8, 2017 - 08:47am PT
I like the spider pics!

Lots of these handsome fellers hanging around.

Hey Good Lookin'...wantta go for a stroll?
Hey Good Lookin'...wantta go for a stroll?

I love both East and West...but the West has a bit more adventure to it IMHO.
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Dec 8, 2017 - 08:52am PT

I love both East and West...but the West has a bit more adventure to it IMHO.

Interesting view, I've heard others say the same.

I wonder whether people who think the West Side is more adventurous have climbed at The Yaks, The Frog, or The Hand (as examples).

These are certainly East Side crags. And they contain some of the most adventurous climbing in the park. They aren't very close to the car though and so aren't as frequently visited.
Jody

climber
Occupied Territory
Dec 8, 2017 - 08:55am PT
wonder whether people who think the West Side is more adventurous have climbed at The Yaks, The Frog, or The Hand (as examples).

They are definitely more in the boonies than most stuff on the west side.

Here is some rescue practice on The Yaks:



I believe this is the "Beast of Burden" rappel...approach to The Yaks

L

climber
It's a Bear Affair
Dec 8, 2017 - 08:58am PT
Good point, Mtnyoung.

I'm relatively new to climbing in the Pinns and certainly haven't done enough to speak as an expert; it was just a first impression.

Looking forward to eventually getting on a couple of those climbs you mentioned.
Jody

climber
Occupied Territory
Dec 8, 2017 - 09:00am PT
From a draft for a book by Allen Steck:

The Hand
The earliest story concerned his remarkable first ascent of the Hand, a spectacular formation in Pinnacles National Monument in February 1947. The volcanic rock is composed of small rocks imbedded in a fine-grained matrix. Some of these can be loose, but generally they are solid enough to hold one’s weight. Salathé started the climb, belayed by Robin Hansen. Soon it became apparent that piton cracks were not only poor, but they were scarce as well. John got out to a spot from which a fall would be fatal and Hansen got his friend Dick Houston to take over the belay. The two exchanged the belay frequently since no one wanted to hold a fatal fall. At one point, John lost his balance slightly and he cried out, “Oops, I almost schlipped.” But he persevered and soon reached a good anchor to belay his friends. Salathé’s route is popular even today, but several bolts have been placed to reduce the possibility of a fatal fall.
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