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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 5, 2017 - 09:52pm PT
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Which do you prefer, and why?
Which would you take a new-to-Pinns climber to first (not a new climber, but new to Pinnacles)?
In my own personal likes and dislikes, I've probably had more better days on the West and High Pikes than days I've had at East Side. Lack of climbers on the West. FA ops on the West. Camping, in the old days, on the West. Tall rocks on the West. High Peaks have that alpine feel with great views and fun climbs. Sh#t loads of adventure at any grade.
East has hard stone and some quality stone, the Fern Chamber and many things to test oneself on, but it just doesn't have the character of the West. Think Feed The Beast, Ubermensch, and Cantaloupe Death.
Walking in to the East is like walking into Joshua Tree. Walking into the West is like walking into Yosemite Valley. Both easy to love, but for different reasons.
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F'ueco
Boulder climber
Peoples Republic Of Boulder
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I like the more isolated nature of the West Side, as well as the drive through that happenin' place, Soledad...
I've got scars on my legs from some of those adventures. The approach to ¡Cuidado! comes to mind....
That said, I like the East Side as well, but it's been longer since I've been over there.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2017 - 10:02pm PT
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Jody, Unmentionable is definitely shorter from East Side. You may be thinking of Photographer's Delight being equidistant in the high peaks?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2017 - 10:03pm PT
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F'ueco, where would you take an experienced climber that hasn't been before?
or would you at all? ;)
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F'ueco
Boulder climber
Peoples Republic Of Boulder
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Sorry, I missed that part...
I'd probably take an experienced climber to the West Side. Maybe Balconies, Flumes, Game Show Wall, depending on what they were after.
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F'ueco
Boulder climber
Peoples Republic Of Boulder
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And no, I probably won't be taking anyone there anytime soon. It's a bit far away these days... :)
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Inner City
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Munge,
Your opinion is the same as mine. The open, less crowded and high-Peak feeling of the West Side is better for the first time visitor I think.
High quality camping back in the day too.
East side has it's charms but West Side is more beautiful.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Who climbs Desperado Shootout anymore?
We used to bring beginners to the Westside for their first outing. Second was the Discovery Wall classics. Third was High Peaks. Then starting longer routes on the Westside.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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West side has a more wild feel... but the best times I've had are not actually climbing- but hiking the loop up to the peaks when my kids were little, and hiking from the east to the west with them, playing in the creek, catching fat lizards, and exploring the caves. Both of these we camped and started walking from east side.
The high and airy possibilities on the west side are more appealing for me as a climber.
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Who climbs Desperado Shootout anymore?
I remembering doing an early ascent of Desperado Shootout in 1974 just after the Richards' guidebook describing it came out. The pitch with no belay anchors didn't faze us at all. I just sat down and started taking in rope. It was the Pinnacles after all and 'normal' rules of climbing didn't apply:-)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2017 - 12:52pm PT
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first condor at Pinns raised in wild took flight today.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2017 - 12:55pm PT
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Jeremy you should definitely visit. Rich history. Yeah, the rock is volcanic breccia.
Maybe JC will chime in with the geo history.
Cobblestones welded into a pinkish matrix of rock that we call mud.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Beware taking youngsters there in the summer!
On the way back from some other vacation, we stopped for a quick side-trip to the caves from the west side. It felt pretty hot, but it was just a quick hit and I had one little water bottle and no pack. After a few hundred yards, the kids were melting down, all red-faced and fatigued, I had my daughter on my shoulders and I was pouring our drinking water on the kids' heads heads and inside hats to cool them off. We did make it to the caves and back, but turns out it was 106 degrees. We've since done other hot weather hiking days (e.g. Angels Landing in Zion when it was about 104), but somehow that one time in Pinnacles westside stands out as a family trauma. It's a joke whenever we drive by 101 in the summer now... "hey guys, want to go for a hike in Pinnacles?" :)
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Machete Direct.... nuff said.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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I've always liked the West Side. Used to be a primitive campground there with coyotes passing through at night and frost on the sleeping bags in the morning. Short approaches to a myriad of climbs of all difficulties and lengths. A few wonderful climbs along the ridge trail if you know where to look. And these days------very few people.
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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I like the Eastside way better then the westside, but i am a sport weeny and like chipping bolts Lol :-), plus at the Pinnacles I need The Verdict for a warm up Lol,I love the Eastside :-) happy climbing Mike A.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Went to the Eastside with my grandson, who lives in Hollister, the day after Thanksgiving. Neat place but definetly not a destination.
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TLP
climber
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NutAgain: Dude! BBQed in the Pinnacles, chilled shaken and stirred on the way to Half Dome. Can ya just average it out a bit? :-)
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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What they say in Wikipedia sounds like what we told people when I worked there long ago. It also matches a thesis that was written about the place:
"Neenach Volcano is an extinct Miocene volcano in the Coastal Ranges of California. The volcano was split by a fault in the San Andreas fault system, and over the last 23 million years, the two halves of the volcano have moved about 200 miles apart.
The original volcano formed about 23 million years ago.[1] It formed along a fault in the San Andreas fault system. Through tectonic plate motion, the western half of the volcano moved north at about 1.5 cm per year.[2] During the course of this movement the volcano also eroded away to the minor formations visible today." The western half of the volcanic rock is the Pinnacles. The Eastern half, near Neenach, doesn't have the topography of the Pinnacles.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2017 - 11:21am PT
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"definetly not a destination"
Jim, why do you say that? Not big enough? Perceived rock quality?
Was destination enough for Jim T and Chris Sharma on Ubermensch?
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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West Side for sure, much "better" aid "climbing"
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hellroaring
Trad climber
San Francisco
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If I could have experienced the West side when camping was allowed hat would have made the choice much more apparent. Guess I would still say West side because of the big formations & less people. However, East side mid week is pretty sparse too, and all the smaller stuff spread through out makes it feel other worldly. One of my favorite "heads up" climbs, the Salathe route on The Hand is on the east side, also the only FA I've ever had the pleasure of participating in, is there. Yet I think
I'd still lean toward the West side. Just wish you could still camp there.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Wow socialclimber...didn’t see anything that looked like that! Methinks the offering on MP is rather sparse.
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Zay
climber
Monterey, Ca
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West Side of Pinnacles is why I am a climber. Used to climb gym only, and fell out after losing interest. One day, girlfriend says, "Ever been to Pinnacles?" ... "No, heard it's cool though." ... "Me neither, I hear there's caves and bats and sh#t." ... Oh man, after looking up at the high peaks from the West side lot, and then hiking along Machete Ridge and The Balconies... So inspiring! All I could think was, "You can climb these things? That's legal???" Next day I was wondering back into Sanctuary, hell bent on getting in shape and making friends to teach me the real stuff. East side is awesome too, but the memories of learning to place cams while on the last pitch of Machete Direct, watching the crack crumble and absorb 'em like a sponge... sheepishly looking up at the face of middle tower looming over me, saying to it, "Please don't collapse on me..."
That is why I climb!
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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...didn’t see anything that looked like that! Methinks the offering on MP is rather sparse.
HAHAHAHAHA. Geeesusss.
I love Mountain Project. For an idea what a place might be like. In depth? Hahahahahaha. Not to mention the "garbage-in garbage-out" factor. Half the people that post there can't tell left from right.
Of all the people who make the Supertopo forum a rich and worthwhile site, Jim's about the last one I would have expected that quote to come from.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Well...I wasn't going to get a guidebook for one day with my grandson and MP was an option...ended up going to the Discovery Wall. Those pics up thread certainly look better than what I found there.
I agree that the route comments on MP are usually best left unread.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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I like climbing all over Pinns.
Cool photos guys!
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Jim,
Socialclimber's first photo, Electric Blue, is the water streak 15 feet left of Higgins' classic Shake and Bake.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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I get it Jim. I love guidebooks and buy them even if I'm only going to be there for a day. You're much closer to normal than I am.
You should have that guidebook though. I'll tell you what, email me a snail mail address and I'll send you the book with my compliments - just because of who you are. Email me at:
mtnyoung AT gmail.com
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2017 - 05:21pm PT
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learning to place cams while on the last pitch of Machete Direct
I guess that's one way to do it. Lol
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Be careful, the locals may follow you back to your home town.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mtnyoung, thanks for the offer. I'll pay for it if you autograph it. I'm intrigued by what the area has to offer. Leaving for Patagonia in a couple of days. I'll order when I return the first of March.
Jody, I'll check out page 5.
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hellroaring
Trad climber
San Francisco
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It would probably have to be a dry camp, so you would have to carry in water, but I think it would be pretty cool if Pinnacles had one or two backcountry campsites.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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If you do the tarantulas tartare you’ll get enough fluids. Same with condor eggs.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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If you do the tarantulas tartare you’ll get enough fluids. Same with condor eggs.
Bad plan.
The tarantulas are only out during October and November. That's too short a time-span to be a reliable source of liquid or nutrition. And there's only been one or two condor eggs laid in the park each year. Same result.
Starvation and/or dehydration is inevitable....
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Zay
climber
Monterey, Ca
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Mungeclimber,
Thanks! Lol that climb was a huge first for me. Also my first experience with aid: stepping on a single runner to clip the next bolt and do an almost one arm pull up to clip a draw to my harness and sit for a second. Partner and I agreed to swing leads so I also got my first experience with runout 5.7 (second pitch) and that fourth pitch is just fantastic! Anyways thanks for taking to time to read my first supertopo posts, I've been following y'all for a while. Cheers.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2017 - 10:48pm PT
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Jebus, stay strong! Don't succumb to the draw of the choss.
Clearly Zay is a lost cause. ;)
Save yourself!
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Crafty little devil keeping guard over the Balconies!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2017 - 06:10am PT
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:)
I hear ya. Lot of good stone just up the hill. Hard to justify, but keep it in mind for dry stone as we head into winter.
Oh another reason for East side is the amazing Yaks wall!
I still don't know where the name originated from.
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L
climber
It's a Bear Affair
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I like the spider pics!
Lots of these handsome fellers hanging around.
I love both East and West...but the West has a bit more adventure to it IMHO.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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I love both East and West...but the West has a bit more adventure to it IMHO.
Interesting view, I've heard others say the same.
I wonder whether people who think the West Side is more adventurous have climbed at The Yaks, The Frog, or The Hand (as examples).
These are certainly East Side crags. And they contain some of the most adventurous climbing in the park. They aren't very close to the car though and so aren't as frequently visited.
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L
climber
It's a Bear Affair
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Good point, Mtnyoung.
I'm relatively new to climbing in the Pinns and certainly haven't done enough to speak as an expert; it was just a first impression.
Looking forward to eventually getting on a couple of those climbs you mentioned.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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...climbed at The Yaks, The Frog, or The Hand
Over a period of 30 years I've led every route at these three crags with two exceptions (both at The Yaks; one is 5.11b and probably beyond me now, the other is a 5.10c which the first ascent party tells me will still be pushed higher and I'm waiting).
I think about some of these routes and just shake my head. I don't know that you could pay me to lead Tuff again (on The Frog), or even Orion (at Yaks Wall). Orion is "only" 5.8, although in fairness it's probably really 5.9 and I'm seriously considering regrading it to that in the new book. But not all 5.8s (or 5.9s) are created equal. It's a very, very serious lead. I'm happy to have done it once and had that high adventure (I led it all). But, like I said above, I'd never lead it again ;)
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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^^^
Well that's pretty damn funny.
After my last post I thought about Orion and whether I'd given it an "R" sub-rating in the 2007 guidebook. So I looked it up and I had.
I also noticed that I had already bumped it up to 5.9 (from 5.8+ in David Rubine's guide).
Human memories are interesting things....
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Would like to climb on the West side, my only trip being to the East.
Do I need to get a more up to date guide?
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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^^^^
Since I suspect that the guidebook pictured is older than you are, yes, you should get a more up-to-date book.
Try maybe the Chuck Richards, 1974 book ;)
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Dec 27, 2017 - 08:35am PT
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Wow, first I've seen of that old Sierra Club guidebook! What a score.
I thought the Roper guide was the first. Shows you what I know.
As for first routes, do like I did on my first trip and hit Disco Wall. Why start on any lesser quality rock?
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mynameismud
climber
backseat
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Dec 27, 2017 - 09:52am PT
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There is plenty of adventure to be had on either side of the Pinnacles. The East Side is known for Bear Gulch and the West Side is known for the Balconies. If you climb in the 5.11 range and want sport climbing hit Bear Gulch. If you like bolts spaced a bit further apart and want sustained two pitch climbs hit the Balconies.
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Dec 27, 2017 - 10:30am PT
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Randy,
that's the 1955 David Hammack guide which cost a whopping $0.50. Lot's of great stuff in there. Interesting route names for the climbs on the Monolith which didn't survive the test of time and also the two Yaks which are referred to in that guide as being the East Yak and West Yak. They must have moved a bit over the years because now they are the North Yak and South Yak(changed in the 1974 Richards guide).
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2017 - 12:56pm PT
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Tectonic shifts on Yak moves or just rubble migration patterns? ;)
Randy, you should visit if for the hiking and condors alone.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Dec 27, 2017 - 04:49pm PT
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When you are really hungry, try snake and bake. Yummy
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Dec 28, 2017 - 07:50pm PT
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Haven't been on ST for awhile. Great to see people enjoying Pinnacles as this was one of my early stomping grounds from the late 70’s through the 80’s. Lots of adventures to be had on both sides of the park. Like at most areas the 80/20 rule applies. Lots to explore when you get away from the crowds. Cool to see the pics of our route Electric Blue. I remember it took some time to drill. Peace!
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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Dec 29, 2017 - 06:08pm PT
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You know Alex I'm psyched about Pinnacles for all the reasons you mention about people hating on it. F*#k them, they're closed minded and silly.
Bless Brad Young-he showed me how to drill a bolt as we wormed our way up some mangy 30 foot flared slot that likely will never be climbed again.i love going there cause there are no crowds except one or two spots, the history is vivid-imagine John Salathe leading his route on the Hand when you try it and are peering yr pants finding the 3rd bolt, oh it's only 5.6, hahaha. And in t he spring it gets so green-sure some of that is poison oak, but still...
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hellroaring
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Dec 30, 2017 - 01:34pm PT
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Oh yeah, poison oak. Mr Knopp when are we going back to Yaks Wall or Feather Canyon?? Get your cortisone shot ready...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Man, they gots some kinda drilling probs at Pinns!
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monolith
climber
state of being
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Why not both sides? Took only an hour to get to Lava Falls from the east side on new years day, then did some east side climbs.
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tb.in.sf
Trad climber
San Francisco
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I always liked West better. For a camping alt: cross the Salinas Valley and head up Arroyo Seco Rd to the campground up there, a worthwhile little spot in itself with endless hiking up in those mountains.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2018 - 02:30pm PT
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No question. Definitely the south side is the best side.
Don't tell me you all don't know about the southern entrance?!?!?!?
Have fun at MoM weekend ya'll!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Apr 20, 2018 - 05:46pm PT
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I'm going Sunday with my crew for the day, prolly the shade at Crud and Mud. Infants to fossils.
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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Apr 20, 2018 - 05:54pm PT
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Nice! We loved Mud and Crud-big shout out to John and Brad for developing this stellar hidden craglet.
But as to the question, yep you can have it all ... maybe walk up to high peaks then down to the flumes for some mellow sport climbing then back to the east side to finish. Great long day.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2018 - 10:20am PT
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sweet! Didn't know they allowed new routing there these days.
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