Climbing's folk heroes: who are they and why do they qualify

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hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Nov 17, 2017 - 12:25am PT
Hey Darwin

You appear to suggest that Brown, Patey and Whillans were more interested in rock climbing rather than mountaineering. Not so.

Brown made the FA of Kanchenjunga, the 3rd highest peak in the world.

Patey made the FA of Mustagh Tower and Rakaposhi.

Whillans made the FA of the south face of Annapurna, and made two attempts on the SW face of Everest.

.................


I nominate Pete Schoening for "The Belay", when he held 6 falling teammates high on K2, and saved 7 lives, including his own. Legendary.

Another vote for Bridwell.
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
Nov 17, 2017 - 02:52am PT
WyoRockMan, we should visit for a spell
WyoRockMan

climber
Grizzlyville, WY
Nov 17, 2017 - 07:26am PT
Everyone on my first list was influential and/or historical for the region. At some point, whether it was on a climb or just for brief moment they all were MY folk heros. After going through this thread again, I'll reduce my list to two, in order to limit it to the community's folk hero.

Alex Lowe- For the constant stoke and cutting edge. Drive...

Jack Tackle- Once we were able to get to Hyalite or the Gallatin Canyon, we’d occasionally run into the other local hardmen (and women), but Jack… Jack was always on a big mission somewhere, never seen by us kids. At times we’d question whether he even existed. We knew he must, a Marmot ad with him boiling water in a light bivy somewhere in the wilds of Wyoming, ripped out of a magazine hanging on the bedroom wall was proof.




hooblie- ilive4rx at yahoo
JerryA

Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
Nov 17, 2017 - 07:32am PT
Which North American climbers are mentioned the most often in this forum ? Is that a measure of their folk status ?
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Nov 17, 2017 - 07:38am PT
Egads people!

Have we mentioned...

BURT BRONSON?!?!?!
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Nov 17, 2017 - 07:59am PT
justthemaid - look upthread, post #3.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Nov 17, 2017 - 08:01am PT
Thanks- I did scan the whole thread. Missed it somehow- of course he was an early frontrunner lol
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Nov 17, 2017 - 09:24am PT
John Muir
John Salethe
Chouinard
Robbins

Harding!!

Rowell

Alex Lowe

Mugs Stump

Beckey

so many. It could be a museum in Washinton DC!
steve s

Trad climber
eldo
Nov 17, 2017 - 09:39am PT
Pete Cleveland, Jim Erickson, Bill Russell
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 17, 2017 - 09:49am PT
Peter..of Peter and the wolf fame
Gollum
Darth Vader
BLR

Trad climber
Lower Eastside
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2017 - 03:44pm PT
The piece will run in Alpinist 61.
ryankelly

climber
Bhumi
Nov 18, 2017 - 08:12am PT
Dan McDevitt - Yosemite
originalpmac

Mountain climber
Timbers of Fennario
Nov 18, 2017 - 10:31am PT
Michael Covington. Lives in a tipi. One of the greats. Very nice man.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 18, 2017 - 01:20pm PT
way too serious so far... how about

Gabriel "Gabe" Walker?

ec

climber
ca
Nov 18, 2017 - 02:33pm PT
2nd on Layton Kor. Reasons: goes without sayin’

Hermann Buhl

Buhl is the mountaineer to have made the first solo ascent of an eight-thousander. His climbing partner, Otto Kempter, was too slow in joining the ascent, so Buhl struck off alone. He returned 41 hours later, having barely survived the arduous climb to the summit, 4 miles distant from, and 4,000 feet higher than camp V. Experienced climbers, upon hearing later of Buhl's near-death climb, faulted him for making the attempt solo. Regardless, his monumental efforts, along with spending the night untethered, on the edge of a 60-degree ice slope, standing on a tiny pedestal too small to squat upon, have become mountaineering legend. Hermann Buhl is still considered by alpinists and mountaineering historians to be the most complete and advanced mountaineer of his time. Buhl can be considered a pioneer of Alpine style mountaineering in the Himalayas, a style defined by light-weight expedition gear, little to no fixed ropes and the relinquishing of bottled oxygen.
dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
Nov 18, 2017 - 07:29pm PT
Jesus effing Christ!!!



Norman Clyde
ec

climber
ca
Nov 18, 2017 - 07:44pm PT
Already mentioned in post 16...
nah000

climber
now/here
Nov 18, 2017 - 08:07pm PT
JerryA... that's an interesting question. based on the conversation that has been generated about them [rather than just by them] here are a few, what i'd argue and in no particular order are, supertopo folk heroes:

bachar
cosgrove
harding
sacherer
tucker tech
chongo
yabo
tobin
braun
preuss
robbins
walling
bvb
"brutus of wyde" bindner
bridwell
beckey
donini
gill
fowler
klaus
mckray
ammon
"doug fir" hatten

ie. seems to be a pretty safe conclusion, that who the most "myth building" stories are told about here, is reflective of the generational and mostly localized demographic that makes up the backbone of the ye ole supertopo [depending on the moment] tire fire/rest home/campfire...
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
Nov 18, 2017 - 10:57pm PT
ec

climber
ca
Nov 19, 2017 - 04:13am PT
OP: “climbing and the American folk idiom.”

IMO doesn’t mean the person has to be American, just part of the American Folklore...

 ec
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