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David C
Trad climber
UK
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 1, 2017 - 11:04am PT
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Hi,
Apart from Joshua Tree, is there much good climbing between LA and Vegas? We are a bunch of Brits visiting in March and wondering whether to fly to Vegas or LA (much cheaper).
Thanks
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Taquitz and Suicide.
Other smaller crags as well
Riverside Quarry is good for sport climbing (and aid as well)
New Jack City as well for sport
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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If you are flying into LA it’s probably best to head right to RR. JT and Tahquitz/Sucicide are a bit out of the way. You can drive from LAX to RR in under five hours if you avoid LA rush hour traffic.
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John M
climber
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The distance isn't that great. At least not by American standards. I understand that Europeans aren't used to driving that far. ( At least according to my friends in Sweden ) But in America 5 hours of driving isn't that far. So it comes down to what you want, how long that you have, and whether you are renting an auto. And if you can spend part of two days doing the drive between LA and Las Vegas. Remembering that many companies won't rent to people under 25, or charge higher prices.
So what is your hoped for plan?
Flying in to LAX, or Burbank, renting a car, driving to Joshua tree and climbing a few days, then heading on to Red Rocks, climbing there, then driving back to LAX is not a bad plan.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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It depends on how precious the climbing time is to you vs spending the extra bucks.
While the driving time between LAX and Vegas isn't bad IF THERE IS NO TRAFFIC, the only good times for getting out of LAX and heading east would be from about 8PM, or at about 10 AM, due to commuting congestion.
Just last week my niece, who goes to school right near LAX, left her Campus at 4:40 PM and it took her 2 hr 40 minutes to get to my house 55 miles away, taking the same route you would be taking going from LAX to Vegas.
Add to this the massiveness and slowness of LAX, you could spend 2.5-3 hours deplaning, getting your bags and going thru customs. Vegas has a pretty small and efficient airport.
Figure on losing a whole day of climbing on each end of your trip if you fly into LAX.
It is cheap though. My friend Andy just visited from the UK and flew RT Heathrow-LAX for about $550. We drove to Red Rocks the next day. His conclusion was if there was any way to get tix directly into Vegas, that is what he would do next time.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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The back roads from LA to Vegas are much more interesting than the 15 Freeway, and goes through JTree.
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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If your priorities are climbing, I would say fly to Vegas, rent a car, and drive to Jtree. Spend a few days climbing, then drive back to Vegas, and climb in RR. The traffic between Jtree, and Vegas is virtually non existent.
If you want to sightsee, then best bet is to fly to LA.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Todd Gordon has a lot of info on this. Maybe he will post up.
edit: my suggestion is to fly into Ontario or Vegas. LAX may be less expensive but is a huge pain in the arse. Phoenix may be another option. What are your main goals?
Rubidoux has some good bouldering. Big Rock has good slab climbing and a few cracks, mostly one pitch, but there are a couple of two pitch cliimbs. They are pretty greasy. There is a quarry near Rubidoux but I've never been there, so have no usefull information. As 10b4me said, if you want to see LA, LAX may be okay. I hate that airport though and don't understand why anyone would spend time in either LA or Vegas.
2nd edit: Vegas is a good party town and red rocks with stellar climbing is nearby.
3rd edit: the drive from SoCal to Vegas can be crazy nerve wracking from Thursday to Monday. It is basically one stupid conga line for 200 miles.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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If you want to go someplace and have it all to yourself there's Christmas Tree Pass near Laughlin, Nevada. Old school run out slab climbing mostly. Some very challenging stuff there.
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TLP
climber
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Another piece of relevant information is to consider the weather. In the UK or the continent, you just climb in bad weather if you want to climb. But desert sandstone, including Red Rocks, is softened when wet and for a day or two afterwards (or longer, depending on sun exposure). Consequently holds break and climbs get damaged. So if it's sketchy weather, stick to J Tree or other out of the way non-sandstone climbing. Have fun! And it is no longer true that all beer in the U.S. is piss beer. There is a lot of good beer of every variety nowadays, albeit a huge excess of IPAs.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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It is better to fly into Vegas. Car rental is cheaper. Getting out of town is easy.
Climb at both Red Rocks and J Tree. The back road drive is amazing. Stop and hike at Kelso dunes.
Driving around LA is no fun.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Don’t rent a car at any airport if you can avoid it, but LAX is expensive.
Just do what most Angelenos do - steal one.
I thought flights to Vegas from Olde Blighty were cheap?
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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D2R2 I pretty much agree with you.
From my house to Vegas is 3.5 hours when I go, on my retiree schedule. New Jack is directly on route but I certainly wouldn't stop there as a destination. I love it as a day trip crag, but Not a destination crag. J tree is a worthy destination but it's not on route unless you are on the scenic tour leisure plan.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Serious question:
How much "cheaper" to LAX???
Driving LA to Vegas really sucks if you don't know the ins and outs.
The gas might cost you the difference.
Might be better to fly to Vegas and just stay there. There's only like... 3000 great routes.
How long will you be here?
New Jack City is the only semi- decent climbing that is sort of in between the two cities without having to drive too far out of the way. Joshua Tree could be a side trip from either city. Taquitz/Suicide would probably eat up too much time in transit and weather will be ???.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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If you climb just at RR you’ll be fine.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Have you been to the general area before?
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Suicide and Tahquitz in March are pretty iffy. I threw out Rubidoux and Big Rock as possibilities. Both are a short drive off the 60 FWY. I don't consider them destinations, but if you want to kill a few hours they are worth the detour.
edit: D2R2- if you don't have anything constructive to add, STFU.
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David C
Trad climber
UK
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2017 - 07:17am PT
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Thanks everyone.
Re car rental, I'm well over 25 :(
I have climbed at RR, but the rest of the team have not. The only other place in CA I have climbed is Yosemite. Hence I felt in would be cool to visit JTree and any other places of that quality.
The flight cost difference is $320 each, so not massive I guess
We are a mixed team, and I'm not sure all are up for 14 days of climbing, so I thought it might be worth breaking it up a bit, if the cost balanced out and the venues worth getting in the car.
My preference would be Vegas then RR then Zion and in an act of madness The Black ('cos I have always wanted to climb there - not sure why, just looks my kind of place)
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Hence I felt in would be cool to visit JTree
JT is well worth your time. In March be prepared for strong winds and possible cold weather. It has become a popular park. Make reservations well ahead of time, whether camping or hoteling it.
edit: There are some rentals available near the park entrance. Contact Russ Walling.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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David...I am the “older climber,”a designation that R2D2 seems to think disqualiifies me from giving advice. I do, however, still climb quite a bit and the Black is one of my favorite venues.
It’s a bit late in the season and quite a long drive from Vegas. Put it on your calendar for your next visit.
The Black Canyon is one of the three or four best areas in the US. It combines breath taking scenery, mellow camping and worldclass multi pitch climbing. A trip there can be combined with Indian Creek and the desert towers of SE Utah. The “Scenic Cruise” is my favorite climb of it’s grade in the States. I climb there a lot and can give you good beta.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Big Rock? Are you phuckin’ kidding?
I've seen Jerry Moffatt and Ben Moon climbing at Big Rock. Ever do English Hanging Garden? Hardly a noob route. The flakes and the roof are fun climbs for weekend climbers.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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If you come in late March Joshua Tree can be well worth the visit. The desert begins to bloom. April is the best.
If you have a limited time, like a week or less, Red Rocks offers so much great climbing that there is no reason to go anywhere else.
Joshua Tree can also be rather crowded and find camp sites can be near impossible on weekends unless you have worked something out in advance. There are many people on this forum that can help though.
Have a great trip and enjoy your escape from winter.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Yeah? So I’ve seen Willi Unsoeld at Schurman Rock in Seattle.
It ain’t the W Ridge of Everest just like Big Rock ain’t Gogarth.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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I do, however, still climb quite a bit
That is a modest understatement and made me laugh out loud.
edit:D2R2, I stated up thread that I do not consider Rubidoux or Big Rock destinations but good places to kill a few hours. I don't want to get in a pissing contest but your attitude is plainly negative while you offer no alternatives.
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David C
Trad climber
UK
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2017 - 03:33pm PT
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Thanks agin everyone for your suggestions
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Don't bother with LA, no climbing here according to R2DNegitve ;)
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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David C- If you are going to stay (camping) in JT, I'd recommend getting reservations at Indian Cove. It is at a lower elevation and closer to amenities. Hidden Valley is good, as is Jumbo Rock. They are in the high desert and will be cooler. Cottonwod Springs is pretty far from any decent climbing but is okay if you are looking for a quick stop off the I10; the rock there is crumbly choss and not worth bothering with. On the south side of the I10 near the cottonwood springs exit there is somme good camping/climbing on BLM land, but I've lost my info/memory.
If this is your first trip to the the western US, you will find the scenery quite interesting. I had a few ex-pat Brits that I worked with and they found the desert quite a trip.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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gas is cheap (thanks, Trump!), come to Minnesota to get your climbing fix
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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Just to add another piece to the puzzle, avoid the last week of March in RR. Its spring break and I believe Red Rocks Rendezvous time which in combination can create quite the congestion at crags. Long multi pitch not so much.
S...
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Oy- and there's that^^^.
What is your date range for the trip?
If you are traveling the last weekend in March you should get your reservations for wherever you are staying in advance. Red Rock Rendevous brings in a lot of extra climbers. That last weekend in March also overlaps Easter week/spring break this year- which is a popular vacation week for Americans.
With the price difference and multiple people it does sound like a pretty significant savings$ flying into LA. You will loose a 1/2- a full day driving to whichever location you decide to go to first though.
P.S. after giving it some thought... Just listen to Donini- he's they only person on this site who actually climbs.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Red Rock Rendezvous is the worst time to go, overcrowded, parking sucks, NOOBS everwhere forget about it. Trash left behind.
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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That last weekend in March also overlaps Easter week/spring break this year- Easter week can be pretty crowded in Joshua Tree, also.
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Google Arizona hot springs. It is a short hike from the highway, a few miles past Hoover Dam. Gold Strike hot springs was decent, but Arizona had nicer pools, (the few times I've been). It makes a nice rest day if you aren't up for 14 days of climbing.
Mt. Charleston is quite pretty too. Some sport climbing, but I've never been. There may be snow in the spring.
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Really? I thought New Jack City was a good recommendation, but they forgot to mention shooting guns, and hallucinogens. Then again, maybe that goes without saying.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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D2R2, I agree Tahquitz and Suicide are excellent desinations and Idyllwild is a wonderful town. Make reservations well in advance whether camping or hoteling. However March weather may be iffy due to the elevation. If the forecast is for good temperatures, by all means they should go.
The OP hasn't really told us what grade their group climbs or whether they are coming out as tourists or climbers. He asked about climbing but hasn't said if they have other goals as well (sightseeing wise). Nor do we know how long their group intends to be out here. The Brits I've known tend to come out for 2-3 weeks or so. Do they want roadside cragging or willing to make fairly long approaches? Are all the members strong climbers or weekend warriors.
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David C
Trad climber
UK
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2017 - 07:15am PT
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Hi JohnTP,
We are old and weak, so easier grades, 5.6 to 5.11.
Bolts are not our thing, and for us Spain is a $30 flight away, so the States is all about trad.
We have lots of world class single pitch at home, but not much in the way of long routes, so long is good.
We are happy about any length of approach.
We would like the places to be scenic if possible.
We would like to climb almost every day, except when travelling.
We will only be in the USA for two weeks - even us Euros have to work sometimes.
All the best, D
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BigB
Trad climber
Red Rock
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Nov 10, 2017 - 08:01am PT
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What about Salt Lake Airport? Its only 6hr drive and you could stop and see Zion. Just a thought...
If you do fly straight into Vegas, don't worry about rain....there's PLENTY to do aside from RR, climbing wise we have good limestone sport, and single pitch granite all within about an hr from city center. Jtree is only 3ish hrs away and Zion less than 3 the other way, and the other other way is the Grand Cyn/Sedona in 4.
And of course you have Las Vegas!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Nov 10, 2017 - 11:09am PT
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+1 for sticking to JT and RR in March. If multipitch is your game, then RR. Fly direct don't waste time on a hwy.
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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Nov 10, 2017 - 12:44pm PT
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^^^^^^If you go to Zion check the raptor closings. Its also still a little shady due to the sun angle and tight canyon. But pretty dang spectacular.
S....
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Nov 10, 2017 - 01:16pm PT
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If LAX is that much cheaper, there's plenty of diversions nearby to pass the time whilst you wait for the traffic to be reasonable. Google, "adult entertainment LAX". Ha ha.
You could hit a beach (in either direction).
Conquer the mighty J Paul Pebble then hit the Getty Villa.
Not that far a drive to Compton on surface streets. That can be pretty interesting. Cultural. Get some soul food at Dirty South on Crenshaw.
Plenty of fun pubs nearby to chill at.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Nov 10, 2017 - 01:22pm PT
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Ah, The King's Head in Santa Monica. Spent many an evening there with my Brit friends. Saw Richard Branson there. That said I still recommend skipping LA and go directly to Vegas. If it's raining go to JT for solid rock.
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