Ice Gear?

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Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 21, 2017 - 11:02pm PT
May be spending some time near Ouray this winter. Haven't climbed ice since the early 80's when I wore superguides, SMC 12 points and Forrest tools. What is a reasonably priced but quality setup these daze? Boots, poons and tools?

Not planning to do anything crazy. BITD I could solo WI4 with the above gear. I'm not so adventurous now.
perswig

climber
Oct 22, 2017 - 03:16am PT
If you're just planning a short-term gig and don't expect to continue after your Ouray access, I'd be glad to loan you a set of first-gen Nomics and some BD Bionics (or maybe the Grivel equiv, 14s?) for the season.
By no means current, and I may need to replace picks/points, but it'll do for what you'll likely need; others can weigh in on what to purchase if getting back in for good.

Either way, invest in a new pair of LS Nepal Evos or similar and you'll be GTG.
Not here often, so gperswig at gmail if interested and I can dig into the gear stash.

Dale
Mark Force

Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
Oct 22, 2017 - 03:55am PT
A second for Nepal EVOs!
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Oct 22, 2017 - 07:43am PT
You will be amazed when you use some of the new gear. Makes ice a lot more fun
10b4me

Mountain climber
Retired
Oct 22, 2017 - 07:53am PT
Haven't been to Ouray for a few years, but I thought one of the mountaineering shops rented gear.
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Oct 22, 2017 - 08:57am PT
ice gear has changed considerably over the past 10-15 years

when I started out, a standard set-up would be: Koflach plastic boots (either the yellow (warmest) or gray (less warm) model) with cookie-cutter crampons. Tools were a hammer and adze combo on leashes.

these days (if we're talking about Ouray-style cragging or front-country), everyone is wearing synthetic boots, usually an integrated boot/gaiter set-up (e.g. Sportiva Batura, Scarpa Phantom), mono-points or quasi mono-points, and everyone is leashless with two hammers (in fact, some tools don't have hammers per se)

screws are another story entirely. They go in buttery smooth in 80% of conditions -- all but scary/airy ice -- with minimal pump (thanks in large measure to going leashless)

paying retail for "good" (read: not the very best) gear would basically cost under a grand. That's tools, boots, crampons, but not harness, helmet, screws, et cetera
fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Oct 22, 2017 - 09:35am PT
2-4k.... if going new.
originalpmac

Mountain climber
Timbers of Fennario
Oct 22, 2017 - 11:59am PT
Pretty sure Ouray Mountain Sports will rent you the gear.
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2017 - 03:18pm PT
Thanks for the replies. Rentals would be a good idea.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 22, 2017 - 08:28pm PT
During the Ice Festival demo gear from all of the vendors will be available free of charge. You can see for yourself what modern gear is like.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 23, 2017 - 01:40pm PT
Can't beat that arrangement!
Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic
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