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Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic |
johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 21, 2017 - 11:02pm PT
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May be spending some time near Ouray this winter. Haven't climbed ice since the early 80's when I wore superguides, SMC 12 points and Forrest tools. What is a reasonably priced but quality setup these daze? Boots, poons and tools?
Not planning to do anything crazy. BITD I could solo WI4 with the above gear. I'm not so adventurous now.
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perswig
climber
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Oct 22, 2017 - 03:16am PT
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If you're just planning a short-term gig and don't expect to continue after your Ouray access, I'd be glad to loan you a set of first-gen Nomics and some BD Bionics (or maybe the Grivel equiv, 14s?) for the season.
By no means current, and I may need to replace picks/points, but it'll do for what you'll likely need; others can weigh in on what to purchase if getting back in for good.
Either way, invest in a new pair of LS Nepal Evos or similar and you'll be GTG.
Not here often, so gperswig at gmail if interested and I can dig into the gear stash.
Dale
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Oct 22, 2017 - 03:55am PT
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A second for Nepal EVOs!
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Oct 22, 2017 - 07:43am PT
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You will be amazed when you use some of the new gear. Makes ice a lot more fun
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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Oct 22, 2017 - 07:53am PT
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Haven't been to Ouray for a few years, but I thought one of the mountaineering shops rented gear.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Oct 22, 2017 - 08:57am PT
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ice gear has changed considerably over the past 10-15 years
when I started out, a standard set-up would be: Koflach plastic boots (either the yellow (warmest) or gray (less warm) model) with cookie-cutter crampons. Tools were a hammer and adze combo on leashes.
these days (if we're talking about Ouray-style cragging or front-country), everyone is wearing synthetic boots, usually an integrated boot/gaiter set-up (e.g. Sportiva Batura, Scarpa Phantom), mono-points or quasi mono-points, and everyone is leashless with two hammers (in fact, some tools don't have hammers per se)
screws are another story entirely. They go in buttery smooth in 80% of conditions -- all but scary/airy ice -- with minimal pump (thanks in large measure to going leashless)
paying retail for "good" (read: not the very best) gear would basically cost under a grand. That's tools, boots, crampons, but not harness, helmet, screws, et cetera
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Oct 22, 2017 - 09:35am PT
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2-4k.... if going new.
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originalpmac
Mountain climber
Timbers of Fennario
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Oct 22, 2017 - 11:59am PT
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Pretty sure Ouray Mountain Sports will rent you the gear.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2017 - 03:18pm PT
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Thanks for the replies. Rentals would be a good idea.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 22, 2017 - 08:28pm PT
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During the Ice Festival demo gear from all of the vendors will be available free of charge. You can see for yourself what modern gear is like.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 23, 2017 - 01:40pm PT
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Can't beat that arrangement!
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Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic |
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