New speed record on the Nose

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clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Oct 24, 2017 - 08:29pm PT
The fact that this only has 45 replies shows how much this forum cares about climbing.

Freesolo of Freerider will do that.

Congrats to the new record holders!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 24, 2017 - 08:31pm PT
Doping for sure.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Oct 24, 2017 - 08:37pm PT
Anyone know or care to wager what the fastest "safe" ascent is, by that I mean not running out sections 40-80 ft which I assume they were doing. Climbing like a lay man for lack of a better term. I'm guessing around 6-7 hrs. Dumb question I know but I always wonder this after these records get broken.

A lay man, as you say, would be doing really good to achieve even a 24 hour Nose ascent. A 6-7 hour ascent is on fire . . . not a lay man there.

There is no safe ascent really, the end is always near.
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Oct 25, 2017 - 09:49am PT
RAD and congrats to the boys.

Reminds me of the Isle of Mann TT except longer and slower but similar consequences.
Matt's

climber
Oct 25, 2017 - 11:04am PT
The fact that this only has 45 replies shows how much this forum cares about climbing.

I can think of a few reasons:
1) brad and jim have not been super good at promoting what they did on social media
2) there aren't any big sponsors behind brad and jim promoting what their climbers did.
3) there aren't very many good pictures or videos of their accomplishments

NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Oct 25, 2017 - 12:43pm PT
I might be able to build 34 anchors off of double-bolted belays in that time. As long as I was standing on the ground and they were right next to each other.
Mei

Trad climber
mxi2000.net
Oct 25, 2017 - 03:32pm PT
Always inspired by speed climbing (not the type in the indoor competitions) and humans' capacity to endure pain, I started following Brad Gobright since his Naked Edge speed record with Scott Bennett and the subsequent triple linkup up and down El Cap in under 24 hours. I cannot imagine the pain in the feet -- they ran down East Ledges in climbing shoes -- and bodies they had to endure for that effort and have tremendous respect for them because of that. Ticking a hard sport climbing grade is one type of achievements, widely celebrated, but I'm personally more drawn to this kind, which does not appear to attract as much limelight.

It only became obvious recently that Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds had a reasonable shot at the Nose record and they were really going for it. I was holding my breath knowing there was great risks involved every time they pushed themselves faster regardless how well qualified and well prepared they were. I doubt that many people actually care who hold the record, and due to Alex's popularity, many may even prefer the record not being broken, but I suspect many of the same people, who paid attention, were glad that Brad and Jim got it, and it was only because they were worried that the repeated attempts would result in something catastrophic. That's how I felt anyway.

I can't believe the entire thread does not have a proper photo of the two. Here is one, and it's linked from a good Rock 'n Ice article that also has some interesting references at the bottom. Enjoy!


Since I already stole a photo, I might as well stole a Facebook post while at it. I thought it was hilarious, and adorable. Brad Gobright posted this two days after he and Jim Reynolds took the Nose speed record from Alex Honnold and Hans Florine:
Oh and FYI Honnold texted me yesterday that he took my 2000 foot Epinephrine record and gave it a new time of 45 minutes. I knew my 50 minute time would never be broken because alex thought it was too "blue collar". Apparently it was white collar enough.


yosemite 5.9

climber
santa cruz
Oct 25, 2017 - 05:45pm PT
How do we know for sure? What verification is there?
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Oct 25, 2017 - 05:54pm PT
Does anyone remember that Hans guy from waaaayyy back in the day? Haha...
yosemite 5.9

climber
santa cruz
Oct 25, 2017 - 05:55pm PT
Even a hole in one requires witness signatures on a score card to be accepted in golf.
Fossil climber

Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
Oct 25, 2017 - 06:59pm PT
Awesome. Not much room left to shave time off it. Down to minutes and seconds. When do we segue into speed downclimbing.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Oct 25, 2017 - 07:03pm PT
Read Tom's report, lots of watches and witnesses for these events. If there were a lie or a mistake, they'd only get away with a few seconds, not the full 3 minutes they were ahead by.
iron duchess maiden or whatever

Social climber
under a pile of rock
Oct 27, 2017 - 12:02pm PT
Del cross,
you should use a polynomial fit for these data.
Power law does not work on this.
Oh, and can you put the error bars please?
Obligatory for scientific measurements.
Cheers.


Brad,
wow, I remember stealing food for you at the lodge cafetaria when you broke a few bones on the golden eagle free ascent attempt, and were on crutches, errr i think, perhaps 2009 or 2010?
i remember running into you at the san diego gym in winter.
I remember squamish summer, 2011.
But the nose speed record? wow, never would that be guessed!


Hans, are you there?
WBraun

climber
Oct 27, 2017 - 12:10pm PT
Just think how many people topping out on the nose all these years since the first ascent and the rescues have used that "TREE" at the top of the Nose.

That living tree has had a very nice history quietly standing there without protest serving humanity ....
iron duchess maiden or whatever

Social climber
under a pile of rock
Oct 27, 2017 - 12:20pm PT
werner,

you know that tree, probably better than other humans.
should we, err, feed the tree, grow a sibling? for backup.
if that tree pops at the wrong moment, several humans plunge.
is this your meaning?


iron duchess maiden or whatever

Social climber
under a pile of rock
Oct 27, 2017 - 12:40pm PT
For Hans and Yuji, we were 4 or 5 clocks. And we agreed on time.
For Dean and Sean RIP, I don t know who clocked.
But for gear, I remember that Alexander and Thomas had a number 2 yellow -bd- and Dean and Sean had a 0.75 green as their biggest.
On the rack photo of Tom's, I cannot quite see.
The biggest piece is what?


Scary.
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Oct 27, 2017 - 12:55pm PT
On the rack photo of Tom's, I cannot quite see.
The biggest piece is what?

All I can recognize are 5 totems. The biggest (green) ranges from 25.7mm - 42.3mm
iron duchess maiden or whatever

Social climber
under a pile of rock
Oct 27, 2017 - 01:14pm PT
There must be something bigger. Otherwise why bother with gear and rope?
Am I missing something? Please tell me.
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Oct 27, 2017 - 03:07pm PT
^ Totems are bomber. 13kN for the green. 6kN for the smallest (11.7mm - 18.9mm, black) in the photo.

https://www.totemcams.com/totem/
WBraun

climber
Oct 27, 2017 - 03:17pm PT
There must be something bigger.

Otherwise, why bother with gear and rope?
Am I missing something? Please tell me.

Big balls ..... :-)

The gear is meaningless.

As for the Tree or any living being.

I'm just pointing to this living entity (the Tree) that's never mentioned or appreciated that's part of the whole scheme of things in our world/s .....
Messages 41 - 60 of total 117 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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