Petzl's question to the removable bolt answer? Coeur-Pulse

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mikeyschaefer

climber

Sport-o-land

Oct 17, 2017 - 03:13pm PT

It will be interesting to see what the minimum embed depth is on the 8mm. I think that will make it or break it for a useful tool for groundup hand drilling. The 12mm is 6.5cm so I bet the 8mm will also be pretty deep. I'd probably stick with 1/4" x 1 1/4" for temporary bolts if hand drilling. But if it is ground up power drilling I think these definitely have an application in my world. These seem way more bomber than a 1/4" button head.

limpingcrab

Trad climber

the middle of CA

Oct 17, 2017 - 03:24pm PT

Good points about ground up drilling and using these in case the route doesn't go or needs to be changed. That's the first reasonable use I've heard after wasting money on bolts to nowhere.

When bolts dead end on an FA it's easy to pull the hangers and pound the bolts in (if you thought ahead and drilled the extra depth), so you'd be hard pressed to make the cost of a rack of these worth it if you're only losing a couple bucks per wasted bolt.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Oct 17, 2017 - 03:41pm PT

Mikey,
The PDF says 5cm depth for 8mm.
Could still be a major pain to enlarge an 8mm hole to 10mm
(much harder than enlarging a 1/4" hole to 10mm).

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Oct 17, 2017 - 04:07pm PT

It strikes me that these are designed for rescue and industrial applications. Petzl has a lot of industrial products in their offerings. Cabled "removable bolts" are jive IMO.

grover

climber

Castlegar BC

Oct 17, 2017 - 04:21pm PT

Steve has a valid point.

I've been on rope access jobs where the client was 100% against fixed anchors.

Over drilling, chopping and patching worked well and appeased the client.

These bolts would have been handy for sure.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Oct 17, 2017 - 04:32pm PT

Clearly designed for shear loading only.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Oct 17, 2017 - 04:43pm PT

8mm = 5/16"
10mm = 3/8"
12mm = 1/2"

WBraun

climber

Oct 17, 2017 - 04:54pm PT

Big wall first ascent use two on blank face and leap frog.

No need to leave or put bolts in on bolt ladders ....

Matt's

climber

Oct 17, 2017 - 05:02pm PT

I had the same idea as werner-- it would seem that, for a big enough ground-up first ascent, having a few removable bolts could be weight-saving over non-reusable bolts... don't have any experience in this domain so I could be wrong!

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Oct 17, 2017 - 05:12pm PT

The PDF diagram shows they don't intend for it to be used as lead climbing pro.
But the pullout strength looks pretty good.

I wonder why they don't recommend it for lead climbing.
Maybe there's a risk of the biner getting on top of the bolt head.

I also wonder why they don't offer a 10mm version.
That would be easier to deepen for a permanent bolt than the 8mm version.

JimT

climber

Munich

Oct 18, 2017 - 12:20am PT

It´s a temporary industrial rope-access/fall prevention anchor, it isn´t certified for any climbing application.

allanc

climber

Oct 18, 2017 - 12:07pm PT

They would be excellent in at several applications

1) rigging a rescue where you're putting in an
anchor that will never be used again and that is in an
inconvenient (to climbing) spot.

2) film crews and camera operators

3) rigging lines in remote areas (for slacklining,
sport rappelling, basejumping, etc)

4) alpine where you would like to save the weight
by reusing bolts, but still leaving a hole others could
fill in with permanent bolts later.

5) wet areas where you might like to replace bolts frequently
or where even stainless might be suspect to hidden corrosion.

6) architectural uses; you need to drill a couple of bolts to
lower an AC unit or something like that. or just for strapping
personnel in while working.