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Climberdude
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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Oct 16, 2017 - 07:57pm PT
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Looks nice, but I suspect it is expensive. The large protruding head looks like it may interfere with a carabiner during an upward pull. I wonder what language they have in the use manual regarding this issue?
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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Oct 16, 2017 - 08:08pm PT
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Would this be a rivet ladder replacement? I can't really think of the use of this. Other than not wanting bolts on a crag from an aesthetic standpoint?
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Oct 16, 2017 - 08:13pm PT
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Once permanent anchors are outlawed and we have to bring a rack of these and follow the holes I will be screwed. I'm terrible at routefinding.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2017 - 08:21pm PT
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Briham, I could see them being handy. Imagine a crag at a high use area for non climbers. Using these as top anchors instead of leaving stuff under foot all the time might make sense. But adoption rate would make it hard to get to a point where most communities had these available.
So 1) the lone low impacter climber. Sets his solitary rope solo rig and leaves the place exactly as he found it, except for tiny holes and a dusting of chalk.
2) the activist. She drives resolution to land manager concerns by reducing visible impact and saves they day for all climbers by avoiding an outright ban on climbing. However, thereby setting a precedent that other areas may or may not pick up...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2017 - 08:23pm PT
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Mark, 36 british pounds for price from what I can see so far.
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ec
climber
ca
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Oct 16, 2017 - 08:30pm PT
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Here’s an image of one made by David Hickey; used in Sequoia NP on some FA’s. This one was tested by Climbing Mag (Duane Raleigh?). Stainless Tube welded onto a stainless Metolius Hanger. When the central bolt is tightened, the ‘nut’ on the end offsets like on a bicycle headset. The Petzl one-hand, push-button is brilliant.
ec
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ruppell
climber
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Oct 16, 2017 - 08:32pm PT
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Is Climbtech still making the 1/2" RB?
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ec
climber
ca
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Oct 16, 2017 - 08:35pm PT
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Locker, when you bail-off, make sure you don’t leave any gear! Leave some dowels...
RB’s were total sh*t.
ec
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Oct 16, 2017 - 08:37pm PT
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So far as climbing is concerned, the main reason for using a removable bolt is for ease of replacement, using the old hole without drilling, etc.
This bolt must have lots of applications, but I don't see rock climbing as one of them. And what about dragging your shin over that knob thing in a fall.
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ec
climber
ca
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Oct 16, 2017 - 08:45pm PT
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Kris, sometimes when it is doubtful that the route would be frequented, say like in a remote setting, this seems acceptable to me, IMO. It’s not much different than bringing/using/reusing a rack of cams or Keyhole hangers, for that matter.
BYOB
ec
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 16, 2017 - 08:55pm PT
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Someone please get Elon hooked on climbing.
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ec
climber
ca
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Oct 16, 2017 - 08:56pm PT
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Worst-Case Senario: Grid Drilling of popular, but formally runout routes so that protection possibilities are there for the masses. Holely Crap!
ec
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2017 - 09:00am PT
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good point ec. "If you don't like it, don't bat hook it" becomes the safety community mantra? yowzer!
oh, and that Hickey bolt is wild! tfpu!
tut, yeah, I could see that!
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 17, 2017 - 09:06am PT
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Aprox $40 each.
Climbing used to be a simple thing until the masses showed up and made it into a commercialized religion .....
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Oct 17, 2017 - 10:14am PT
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Climbing used to be a simple thing until the masses showed up and made it into a commercialized religion .....
Haha Werner......yet here you are on a commercialized website. Have a happier week, Old Fart! ;)
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Oct 17, 2017 - 10:33am PT
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They should also sell some kind of scraper to clean out the hole of muck/bugs/pebbles... All kinds of amusing potential for the name of that one.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2017 - 12:44pm PT
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Two scenarios with immediate and useful application...
1) establish routes ground up on overhanging terrain (as mentioned above). The intermediate bolt used to get up the wall on aid now becomes just a hole without having to remove an intermediate bolt. If they can't be used on overhangs, that will be a problem, but for body weight only? I can't imagine how it wouldn't be useful between otherwise solid sport bolts for upward progress.
2) low impact climber. Sets his solitary rope solo rig and leaves the place exactly as he found it, except for two tiny holes as his top rope anchor for traxioning and a dusting of chalk.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 17, 2017 - 01:45pm PT
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Low impact climber doesn't drill holes for a one-time climb....
It does come in both 8mm (5/16") and 12mm (1/2").
Might be used as kingtut described - for temporary bolts when fixing a rope down an overhanging project; then remove or deepen for the final bolts.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Oct 17, 2017 - 02:50pm PT
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When the park service says, "no permanent hardware may be placed in wilderness areas."
Just drill holes.
But again, I am bad at routefinding so that would be a nightmare.
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