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mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
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Maybe you could get this guy to help you out. I think you know him....
If you really can't find anyone to go up there and belay you, I'll be back from the Eastside on Monday or Tuesday (Maybe even Sunday but wouldn't be able to get it together till Monday) and would welcome the time, any time, on El Cap.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2018 - 08:14pm PT
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next sundays the best day for me, i can recover from the work week a bit on saturday, and then get up early on sunday to avoid the heat.
it's not expensive, i'll be buyiing the beer, gas, etc . steve
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JakeW
Big Wall climber
CA
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Yo Shipoopi, I have zero interest in an extended and scary bigwall aid adventure. However, I can tell you that Stanley and I toproped a "real first pitch" to Mirage when we tried to free that thing. Was a glorious 5.11 face just below the 1st pitch anchor...amongst the finest face pitches anywhere. Just needs to be sport bolted! We wanted to equip it since it was so good and could be a fine el cap base route...but alas we got lazy after realizing the complete free route was a "mirage"...for us. Freed everything up to around pitch 5ish and we were within striking distance of the more featured rock, but a wee blank section was wearing out our rubber and tips at an alarming rate....
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2018 - 08:22am PT
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jake, that's cool that you were up there with stanley, i knew he was working on it about 5 years ago. how come you never ended up bolting the mirage direct? ss
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JakeW
Big Wall climber
CA
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Ultimately laziness i guess. We were demotivated since the whole wall wasn't going down for us, and I think we wanted our ropes out at Watkins. Not exactly convenient to get back up(down? across?) there once we pulled the rope. The original pitch is def a wild and goofy start to a wall!
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2018 - 07:55am PT
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i would happily swap belays on saturday in the valley for a belay on sunday, if anybody wants to commute from the bay with me. ss
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Shanelovesslab
Trad climber
Fresno,CA
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Hey Steve, I'm booked this week and next week unfortunately but I will be in the Valley for the next two months. If you need a belay I'm off on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday. Just let me know, Would love to help out.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2018 - 09:32am PT
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heading up tomorrow to try and find a partner for allied forces. got the next 2 weeks off. anybody game for some adventure on a second ascent of an el capitan route? let me know.
phone me at 209-988-9044. leave a voicemail if i don't answer, my screen is broke right now, steve
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gruzzy
Social climber
socal
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Sep 10, 2018 - 11:19am PT
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Can't you and your wife climb it alone?
I would think it would be more satisfying to not require the help of another person.
Auto trader has many cars to choose from.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2018 - 08:27am PT
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kingtut, the topo is in the new big wall guide by erik sloan. i am hoping to finish it off in the next 10-12 days.
i can't do it with my capable wife as she started work this week. steve
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Honu
Big Wall climber
Boulder
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Sep 11, 2018 - 04:08pm PT
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Steve, my names hayden, I've talked to you before about belaying you on allied forces, I'm working at he mountain room currently so I can belay you any morning, I start work at 4:45pm everyday so there is plenty of time to climb.
Also I ran into Ptpp in the meadow, he says he's got a 2/4 for you which I guess means plenty of beer. It's his birthday today.
I had your number before I broke my phone, I think I gave you my email but it's honu19@gmail.com if you want to get in contact about belays and stuff.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2018 - 08:47am PT
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thanks hayden, i will give you an eem, steve
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2018 - 10:51am PT
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well, before my little mishap on ROTFM, i did manage to finally get this route done after 13 months. dan farrar of turlock was the total hero and drove up and jugged 600 feet and belayed me on what was to turn out to be the crux pitch, pitch 3. on this outing, i pioneered a 40' variation, before realizing i was off route. i managed to meander back to a rivet on af and finish the pitch normally. i had to place two rivets on this variation. the first ascensionist somehow slyly got into a crack on the left that is hidden from the line i was on. i would estimate this crack to be around A4, and my variation was perhaps A3+.
Gerbeding wasn't too happy about the extra rivets when i told him. probably not a good idea to drill on his routes.
after that i recruited local monkey Tom Vokes to partner up with me under my credo of "fix high, party low". Eventually we pushed the ropes up 9 pitches, while making 3 of the five nights of facelift. Hayden Robinson helped out belaying a couple of days with us. in the final push we got camden clements to help us. he was invaluable in pushing the pace into the dark every day with high results. it was a pleasant 4 day romp to the top with big bivy ledges, beer, etc
this was my 45th el cap route. steve
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Oct 17, 2018 - 12:14pm PT
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Steve....are you saying you didn't repeat the crux?
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Oct 17, 2018 - 12:15pm PT
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I came across this photo of Steve. At first I thought it was me, then I thought it was Steve on Barbary Coast that we did together, but I see now it was him, probably on Belay-o-matic.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2018 - 09:19pm PT
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oh, we also never found the 7th pitch. and ended up doing a rappel from an offroute high point and pioneering our way to mirage via "the strip". later we found(bareley) where af surfs right off of mirage. ss
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don't have one
climber
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Oct 18, 2018 - 07:15am PT
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Good gawd....not sure what would be more fun to witness: the conversation between you and Steve, or a coffee session with you and Mr. Way.
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Burnin' Oil
Trad climber
CA
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Oct 18, 2018 - 11:21am PT
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Third pitch
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Pete_N
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Oct 18, 2018 - 03:08pm PT
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Way to go!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Oct 18, 2018 - 03:23pm PT
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Those photos sure make it look slabby and blank in those sections. I'm not saying it is all like that but to my eye, it is not a striking line for a formation with so many striking lines.
Just my 2 cents.
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