WANTED...el cap partner for Allied Forces

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 62 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Oct 16, 2017 - 11:27pm PT
Best of luck up there Steve and Heather. I left you a 12 box of green label Sierra Nevada in bear box #2 at the bridge.
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2017 - 10:54am PT
went to solo the third pitch on mon. its rated A1. ended up retreating from high on the pitch because i was out of small copperheads!?! yeah, three manky heads in a row, i looked up and saw nothing but a really blank seam, and no rivets in sight. i was exhausted, tired, and let's face it, scared. i, at least need a belay for this pitch giventhe serious nature of the pitches crux coming up. i am off all next week...anybody game? steve schneider
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 18, 2017 - 11:09am PT
Gawdamn sandbaggers.

LOL
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Oct 18, 2017 - 11:39am PT
Stick with it Steven....the AL5 pitch is likely the crux !
Burnin' Oil

Trad climber
CA
Oct 18, 2017 - 01:48pm PT
I some availability next week. Post your email or phone number and I will get in touch.
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2017 - 02:59pm PT
my email is blondeshipoopi at yahoo.com
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 18, 2017 - 03:31pm PT
Steve, I recall meeting you at Tuttle's shop in Merced, Tuttle Outdoor Equipment, back in the 90s.
http://www.toegear.com/

You had taken a fellow who was wheelchair-bound up the West Face or Lurking Fear, one of those up the gully.

The guy had a rented house out on the river next to my older brother's place in Merced Falls, but I'm darned if I recall his name.

I've always admired you for your effort on his behalf. You and I would have had a blast, surely.

I wish that I was in a position to belay you, even, much less swing leads, but the body's near on seventy and diseased, so I can't.

You aren't one to give up easily, so here's wishing you GET SOME on the Westside.
--MFM
Lennox

climber
just southwest of the center of the universe
Oct 18, 2017 - 03:42pm PT
Mouse,

You are referring to Wayne Willoughby who posts here as "wayne w".

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=3019593&msg=3020098#msg3020098

He has had quite a few big wall ascents.

Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
Oct 19, 2017 - 06:23am PT
My eight year old son can teach you to drive, if that's your hangup.
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2017 - 11:50am PT
so, new enlightening about this route. Steve Gerberding was nice enough to return my call, and also clarified info in a conversation this morning.

apparently, Al and Odd worked on this pitch for a couple of days, and then al did the pendulum to the right and "got up a few placements" and then "tapped out" according to Steve. so Steve goes up there and does this wicked heading runout to finish the pitch. all the heads are cleaned, so it just looks gnarly...really a great lead by Steve in his prime. usually when seams get this blank, they are riveted. i mean, it looks way harder than any of the heading on Sunkist which is pretty thin indeed.

so, Al looks at this lead and claims that it is A5, and Steve is like, "No, it's not". So they rated the pitch AL5 as a joke on the topo, and then this got transpired to A1 in the new guidebook...and so there i was, sandbagged as all f*ck, trying to solo this pitch that in all reality is probably A4 or A4+, while i thought it was rated only A1.

so, i really don't want any part of this pitch, so i plan to come up next week and retreive my shite off this climb, which is a real bummer because i have 5 days into this route, three of them solo, and i probably won't get to do a new route(for myself, not an fa) this season because of school and work.

but that is the beauty of el cap...sometimes you get your ass handed to you...and you have to move forward somehow.

cheers for everybody who is sending now, Steve Schneider
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Oct 19, 2017 - 12:33pm PT
"Wanted, partner to pick me up, drive me to Yosemite, hump my loads, and belay me while I nail virgin cracks, and my wife..."

hhhhhmmmm, tempting...

J/K, was nice to see ya Shipoopi! Sorry to hear your bailing!
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2017 - 12:43pm PT
forgot to mention that a kind soul from the tribe HAD offerered to go up and belay me on the third pitch.

mouse, thanks for your well wishes.

lambone, thanks for the doss and company. great job on the coveted "first brother" ascent of el cap
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Oct 19, 2017 - 01:06pm PT
great info on the pitch that would probably still be buried except for your efforts!

aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Oct 19, 2017 - 01:26pm PT
I started this pitch with a 17 rivet ladder followed by a 40ft pendulum to a thin corner.It was very difficult to hang on with one hand and place a tiny stopper.70 ft of hard aid in the corner including beaks,tipped out blades,heads and equalized #1 rps followed.Finally got 2 decent cams and fixed the haul line and rapped - 8 hours and 30 ft above the pendulum point with horrendous rope drag...done!Steve went up the next day and finished up with wicked heads and hooks...198ft!
Mr_T

Trad climber
Northern California
Oct 19, 2017 - 01:34pm PT
I'm confused, is this an attempt to free climb Allied Forces?
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Oct 19, 2017 - 01:59pm PT
I think this pitch was previously freed by a visiting Czech climber... it went at 10D
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Oct 19, 2017 - 04:10pm PT
trying to solo this pitch that in all reality is probably A4 or A4+, while i thought it was rated only A1.

Beautiful. What a great story man.
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2018 - 11:01am PT
yep, i still need a partner for this rig. planning on going up next sunday, July 8 to try and finish the evil 3rd pitch. Any locals there that might be interested? anybody who can at least jug up to the highpoint with me and give me a belay?
steve schneider
zip

Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
Jul 1, 2018 - 11:28am PT
Impressive.
Hope you find someone.
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Jul 1, 2018 - 11:38am PT
Steven....Steven said the final stretch to the belay involved crux hooking...talons,pointed and ground down micro hooks required!!
Messages 21 - 40 of total 62 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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