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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 16, 2017 - 11:27pm PT
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Best of luck up there Steve and Heather. I left you a 12 box of green label Sierra Nevada in bear box #2 at the bridge.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2017 - 10:54am PT
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went to solo the third pitch on mon. its rated A1. ended up retreating from high on the pitch because i was out of small copperheads!?! yeah, three manky heads in a row, i looked up and saw nothing but a really blank seam, and no rivets in sight. i was exhausted, tired, and let's face it, scared. i, at least need a belay for this pitch giventhe serious nature of the pitches crux coming up. i am off all next week...anybody game? steve schneider
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Oct 18, 2017 - 11:09am PT
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Gawdamn sandbaggers.
LOL
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Oct 18, 2017 - 11:39am PT
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Stick with it Steven....the AL5 pitch is likely the crux !
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Burnin' Oil
Trad climber
CA
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Oct 18, 2017 - 01:48pm PT
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I some availability next week. Post your email or phone number and I will get in touch.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2017 - 02:59pm PT
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my email is blondeshipoopi at yahoo.com
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 18, 2017 - 03:31pm PT
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Steve, I recall meeting you at Tuttle's shop in Merced, Tuttle Outdoor Equipment, back in the 90s.
http://www.toegear.com/
You had taken a fellow who was wheelchair-bound up the West Face or Lurking Fear, one of those up the gully.
The guy had a rented house out on the river next to my older brother's place in Merced Falls, but I'm darned if I recall his name.
I've always admired you for your effort on his behalf. You and I would have had a blast, surely.
I wish that I was in a position to belay you, even, much less swing leads, but the body's near on seventy and diseased, so I can't.
You aren't one to give up easily, so here's wishing you GET SOME on the Westside.
--MFM
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Oct 19, 2017 - 06:23am PT
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My eight year old son can teach you to drive, if that's your hangup.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2017 - 11:50am PT
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so, new enlightening about this route. Steve Gerberding was nice enough to return my call, and also clarified info in a conversation this morning.
apparently, Al and Odd worked on this pitch for a couple of days, and then al did the pendulum to the right and "got up a few placements" and then "tapped out" according to Steve. so Steve goes up there and does this wicked heading runout to finish the pitch. all the heads are cleaned, so it just looks gnarly...really a great lead by Steve in his prime. usually when seams get this blank, they are riveted. i mean, it looks way harder than any of the heading on Sunkist which is pretty thin indeed.
so, Al looks at this lead and claims that it is A5, and Steve is like, "No, it's not". So they rated the pitch AL5 as a joke on the topo, and then this got transpired to A1 in the new guidebook...and so there i was, sandbagged as all f*ck, trying to solo this pitch that in all reality is probably A4 or A4+, while i thought it was rated only A1.
so, i really don't want any part of this pitch, so i plan to come up next week and retreive my shite off this climb, which is a real bummer because i have 5 days into this route, three of them solo, and i probably won't get to do a new route(for myself, not an fa) this season because of school and work.
but that is the beauty of el cap...sometimes you get your ass handed to you...and you have to move forward somehow.
cheers for everybody who is sending now, Steve Schneider
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Oct 19, 2017 - 12:33pm PT
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"Wanted, partner to pick me up, drive me to Yosemite, hump my loads, and belay me while I nail virgin cracks, and my wife..."
hhhhhmmmm, tempting...
J/K, was nice to see ya Shipoopi! Sorry to hear your bailing!
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2017 - 12:43pm PT
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forgot to mention that a kind soul from the tribe HAD offerered to go up and belay me on the third pitch.
mouse, thanks for your well wishes.
lambone, thanks for the doss and company. great job on the coveted "first brother" ascent of el cap
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 19, 2017 - 01:06pm PT
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great info on the pitch that would probably still be buried except for your efforts!
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Oct 19, 2017 - 01:26pm PT
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I started this pitch with a 17 rivet ladder followed by a 40ft pendulum to a thin corner.It was very difficult to hang on with one hand and place a tiny stopper.70 ft of hard aid in the corner including beaks,tipped out blades,heads and equalized #1 rps followed.Finally got 2 decent cams and fixed the haul line and rapped - 8 hours and 30 ft above the pendulum point with horrendous rope drag...done!Steve went up the next day and finished up with wicked heads and hooks...198ft!
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Oct 19, 2017 - 01:34pm PT
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I'm confused, is this an attempt to free climb Allied Forces?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Oct 19, 2017 - 01:59pm PT
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I think this pitch was previously freed by a visiting Czech climber... it went at 10D
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Oct 19, 2017 - 04:10pm PT
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trying to solo this pitch that in all reality is probably A4 or A4+, while i thought it was rated only A1.
Beautiful. What a great story man.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2018 - 11:01am PT
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yep, i still need a partner for this rig. planning on going up next sunday, July 8 to try and finish the evil 3rd pitch. Any locals there that might be interested? anybody who can at least jug up to the highpoint with me and give me a belay?
steve schneider
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Impressive.
Hope you find someone.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Steven....Steven said the final stretch to the belay involved crux hooking...talons,pointed and ground down micro hooks required!!
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