WANTED...el cap partner for Allied Forces


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Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Oct 11, 2017 - 10:32pm PT
And this is starting to sound like a penis measuring competition

LOL yes.

I'd be into climbing it with you Steve, if I lived in the Bay Area and still had weekends off. My schedule is all over the place. :/ Have fun and stay safe!

Monument Manor
Oct 12, 2017 - 12:22am PT
All good partner....have a blast up there on the coveted SA!

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 12, 2017 - 05:01am PT
Credit: Jaybro

Donít worry,we know who you are....

Big Wall climber
Oct 12, 2017 - 08:02am PT

I think I've heard of you, weren't you Cosgrove's subman back in the day?

Big Wall climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2017 - 09:48am PT
vitaliy, i was thinking of asking you for this. sorry you are so busy.

somebody anybody i am still cosgrove's subman and always will be.

Big Wall climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2017 - 10:09am PT
well, i just had a friend offer to help me out next wednesday out of the blue. he hadn't even seen this thread. so, now i just need some help the week of october 21-30. now i could use somebody from the valley, i don't necessarily need the fellow commuter to drive up with. anybody in the valley got some time off coming up? steve

Social climber
carmel, ca
Oct 12, 2017 - 10:29am PT
I'd go if my Rascal Scooter would make it to the base of the West Face :P.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Oct 16, 2017 - 11:27pm PT
Best of luck up there Steve and Heather. I left you a 12 box of green label Sierra Nevada in bear box #2 at the bridge.

Big Wall climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2017 - 10:54am PT
went to solo the third pitch on mon. its rated A1. ended up retreating from high on the pitch because i was out of small copperheads!?! yeah, three manky heads in a row, i looked up and saw nothing but a really blank seam, and no rivets in sight. i was exhausted, tired, and let's face it, scared. i, at least need a belay for this pitch giventhe serious nature of the pitches crux coming up. i am off all next week...anybody game? steve schneider

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 18, 2017 - 11:09am PT
Gawdamn sandbaggers.


Monument Manor
Oct 18, 2017 - 11:39am PT
Stick with it Steven....the AL5 pitch is likely the crux !
Burnin' Oil

Trad climber
Oct 18, 2017 - 01:48pm PT
I some availability next week. Post your email or phone number and I will get in touch.

Big Wall climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2017 - 02:59pm PT
my email is blondeshipoopi at yahoo.com
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 18, 2017 - 03:31pm PT
Steve, I recall meeting you at Tuttle's shop in Merced, Tuttle Outdoor Equipment, back in the 90s.

You had taken a fellow who was wheelchair-bound up the West Face or Lurking Fear, one of those up the gully.

The guy had a rented house out on the river next to my older brother's place in Merced Falls, but I'm darned if I recall his name.

I've always admired you for your effort on his behalf. You and I would have had a blast, surely.

I wish that I was in a position to belay you, even, much less swing leads, but the body's near on seventy and diseased, so I can't.

You aren't one to give up easily, so here's wishing you GET SOME on the Westside.

just southwest of the center of the universe
Oct 18, 2017 - 03:42pm PT

You are referring to Wayne Willoughby who posts here as "wayne w".


He has had quite a few big wall ascents.


Sport climber
Oct 18, 2017 - 07:30pm PT
Ah Steve, Id help you if I wasn't here in Hawaii toiling in the surf. Hope you and the wife are well.
Flip Flop

Earth Planet, Universe
Oct 19, 2017 - 06:23am PT
My eight year old son can teach you to drive, if that's your hangup.

Big Wall climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2017 - 11:50am PT
so, new enlightening about this route. Steve Gerberding was nice enough to return my call, and also clarified info in a conversation this morning.

apparently, Al and Odd worked on this pitch for a couple of days, and then al did the pendulum to the right and "got up a few placements" and then "tapped out" according to Steve. so Steve goes up there and does this wicked heading runout to finish the pitch. all the heads are cleaned, so it just looks gnarly...really a great lead by Steve in his prime. usually when seams get this blank, they are riveted. i mean, it looks way harder than any of the heading on Sunkist which is pretty thin indeed.

so, Al looks at this lead and claims that it is A5, and Steve is like, "No, it's not". So they rated the pitch AL5 as a joke on the topo, and then this got transpired to A1 in the new guidebook...and so there i was, sandbagged as all f*ck, trying to solo this pitch that in all reality is probably A4 or A4+, while i thought it was rated only A1.

so, i really don't want any part of this pitch, so i plan to come up next week and retreive my shite off this climb, which is a real bummer because i have 5 days into this route, three of them solo, and i probably won't get to do a new route(for myself, not an fa) this season because of school and work.

but that is the beauty of el cap...sometimes you get your ass handed to you...and you have to move forward somehow.

cheers for everybody who is sending now, Steve Schneider

Social climber
carmel, ca
Oct 19, 2017 - 12:17pm PT

No shame SS...lotsa life to live with your beautiful wife.


Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Oct 19, 2017 - 12:33pm PT
"Wanted, partner to pick me up, drive me to Yosemite, hump my loads, and belay me while I nail virgin cracks, and my wife..."

hhhhhmmmm, tempting...

J/K, was nice to see ya Shipoopi! Sorry to hear your bailing!
Messages 21 - 40 of total 57 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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