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| Messages 1 - 62 of total 62 in this topic |
shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 11, 2017 - 10:20am PT
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My wife, Heather, and i are looking for a partner to help us send Allied Forces, an obscure route on the west face that has probably never seen a second ascent. we had a third person, but he had to drop out do to an injury. I hope to fix on weekends and wednesdays until the week of oct 23-27 when we hope to send, weather considering. heather can only help on weekends, and i am tired of going up there solo. currently i am fixed a pitch and a half. here are some traits and experience we are looking for
1) some big wall experience...not teaching anybody to jug right?
2) willing to always help out and never complain(although observations are allowed)
3) sense of humour and ability to laugh in the face of adversity
4) from the bay area and can pick me up and drive for fixing
5) last name mcclean
any takers? Steve Schneider
PS if you have not heard of me, don't bother replying
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2017 - 04:20pm PT
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come on bay area people, what are you waiting for? ss
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Oct 11, 2017 - 04:28pm PT
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PS if you have not heard of me, don't bother replying
LOL!!!!
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2017 - 04:28pm PT
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the mcclean reference is an invite to the McClean brothers. cory, my second recruit from supertopo was one of my partners on lost world. then his brother, george, was my gym partner for awhile. then they both got pregant and i never heard from them again. but they would be most welcome to climb with me anytime. ss
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 11, 2017 - 04:32pm PT
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McClean brothers, they both got pregnant and I never heard from them again.
Huh??? WTF???
Men get pregnant now?
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2017 - 04:36pm PT
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you know what i mean werner...you are NOT a stoopid american!
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Oct 11, 2017 - 05:02pm PT
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Yo Stevie...no need to fix - it's only 16 pitches*
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2017 - 05:25pm PT
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al dude, and when was the last time you did a wall in a push...like, if ever. and what's up with not disclosing the rack and just saying take everything. and what's up with the sandbagging...first pitch is at least A3+, with the ground a serious issue fro 30' to 60' on the first pitch. and how come there isn't a real first pitch off the gound on either mirage or allied forces? ss
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 11, 2017 - 05:44pm PT
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McClean bros photo with young kiddies on twitter!
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Oct 11, 2017 - 06:25pm PT
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Calm down brother....it's going to be glorious.I've done 3 ElCap routes in a push (under 24 hours)...all speed records at that time. Dark Star in particular was notable in that it was the first time an ElCap route rated A5 had its second ascent done in less than a day. Any way have fun on the "Al 5" pitch! The White Slave pitch is a standout also... 5.7 R***
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2017 - 07:29pm PT
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i stand corrected mr swanson, did you have a designated rope gun on those 3 pushes? ss
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Oct 11, 2017 - 08:07pm PT
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Haha...sorry to disappoint you Steve...I swung leads ⊙
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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Oct 11, 2017 - 08:16pm PT
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All due respect ss
But from what I know, aldude is a standup guy
And this is starting to sound like a penis measuring competition
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Oct 11, 2017 - 10:17pm PT
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telenovela
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2017 - 10:30pm PT
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just a little hecking between friends. kudos to al for his big wall pushes...i actually didn't know.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 11, 2017 - 10:32pm PT
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And this is starting to sound like a penis measuring competition
LOL yes.
I'd be into climbing it with you Steve, if I lived in the Bay Area and still had weekends off. My schedule is all over the place. :/ Have fun and stay safe!
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Oct 12, 2017 - 12:22am PT
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All good partner....have a blast up there on the coveted SA!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 12, 2017 - 05:01am PT
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Don’t worry,we know who you are....
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2017 - 09:48am PT
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vitaliy, i was thinking of asking you for this. sorry you are so busy.
somebody anybody i am still cosgrove's subman and always will be.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2017 - 10:09am PT
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well, i just had a friend offer to help me out next wednesday out of the blue. he hadn't even seen this thread. so, now i just need some help the week of october 21-30. now i could use somebody from the valley, i don't necessarily need the fellow commuter to drive up with. anybody in the valley got some time off coming up? steve
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 16, 2017 - 11:27pm PT
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Best of luck up there Steve and Heather. I left you a 12 box of green label Sierra Nevada in bear box #2 at the bridge.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2017 - 10:54am PT
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went to solo the third pitch on mon. its rated A1. ended up retreating from high on the pitch because i was out of small copperheads!?! yeah, three manky heads in a row, i looked up and saw nothing but a really blank seam, and no rivets in sight. i was exhausted, tired, and let's face it, scared. i, at least need a belay for this pitch giventhe serious nature of the pitches crux coming up. i am off all next week...anybody game? steve schneider
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Oct 18, 2017 - 11:09am PT
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Gawdamn sandbaggers.
LOL
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Oct 18, 2017 - 11:39am PT
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Stick with it Steven....the AL5 pitch is likely the crux !
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Burnin' Oil
Trad climber
CA
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Oct 18, 2017 - 01:48pm PT
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I some availability next week. Post your email or phone number and I will get in touch.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2017 - 02:59pm PT
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my email is blondeshipoopi at yahoo.com
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 18, 2017 - 03:31pm PT
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Steve, I recall meeting you at Tuttle's shop in Merced, Tuttle Outdoor Equipment, back in the 90s.
http://www.toegear.com/
You had taken a fellow who was wheelchair-bound up the West Face or Lurking Fear, one of those up the gully.
The guy had a rented house out on the river next to my older brother's place in Merced Falls, but I'm darned if I recall his name.
I've always admired you for your effort on his behalf. You and I would have had a blast, surely.
I wish that I was in a position to belay you, even, much less swing leads, but the body's near on seventy and diseased, so I can't.
You aren't one to give up easily, so here's wishing you GET SOME on the Westside.
--MFM
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Oct 19, 2017 - 06:23am PT
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My eight year old son can teach you to drive, if that's your hangup.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2017 - 11:50am PT
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so, new enlightening about this route. Steve Gerberding was nice enough to return my call, and also clarified info in a conversation this morning.
apparently, Al and Odd worked on this pitch for a couple of days, and then al did the pendulum to the right and "got up a few placements" and then "tapped out" according to Steve. so Steve goes up there and does this wicked heading runout to finish the pitch. all the heads are cleaned, so it just looks gnarly...really a great lead by Steve in his prime. usually when seams get this blank, they are riveted. i mean, it looks way harder than any of the heading on Sunkist which is pretty thin indeed.
so, Al looks at this lead and claims that it is A5, and Steve is like, "No, it's not". So they rated the pitch AL5 as a joke on the topo, and then this got transpired to A1 in the new guidebook...and so there i was, sandbagged as all f*ck, trying to solo this pitch that in all reality is probably A4 or A4+, while i thought it was rated only A1.
so, i really don't want any part of this pitch, so i plan to come up next week and retreive my shite off this climb, which is a real bummer because i have 5 days into this route, three of them solo, and i probably won't get to do a new route(for myself, not an fa) this season because of school and work.
but that is the beauty of el cap...sometimes you get your ass handed to you...and you have to move forward somehow.
cheers for everybody who is sending now, Steve Schneider
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Oct 19, 2017 - 12:33pm PT
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"Wanted, partner to pick me up, drive me to Yosemite, hump my loads, and belay me while I nail virgin cracks, and my wife..."
hhhhhmmmm, tempting...
J/K, was nice to see ya Shipoopi! Sorry to hear your bailing!
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2017 - 12:43pm PT
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forgot to mention that a kind soul from the tribe HAD offerered to go up and belay me on the third pitch.
mouse, thanks for your well wishes.
lambone, thanks for the doss and company. great job on the coveted "first brother" ascent of el cap
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 19, 2017 - 01:06pm PT
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great info on the pitch that would probably still be buried except for your efforts!
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Oct 19, 2017 - 01:26pm PT
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I started this pitch with a 17 rivet ladder followed by a 40ft pendulum to a thin corner.It was very difficult to hang on with one hand and place a tiny stopper.70 ft of hard aid in the corner including beaks,tipped out blades,heads and equalized #1 rps followed.Finally got 2 decent cams and fixed the haul line and rapped - 8 hours and 30 ft above the pendulum point with horrendous rope drag...done!Steve went up the next day and finished up with wicked heads and hooks...198ft!
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Oct 19, 2017 - 01:34pm PT
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I'm confused, is this an attempt to free climb Allied Forces?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Oct 19, 2017 - 01:59pm PT
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I think this pitch was previously freed by a visiting Czech climber... it went at 10D
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Oct 19, 2017 - 04:10pm PT
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trying to solo this pitch that in all reality is probably A4 or A4+, while i thought it was rated only A1.
Beautiful. What a great story man.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2018 - 11:01am PT
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yep, i still need a partner for this rig. planning on going up next sunday, July 8 to try and finish the evil 3rd pitch. Any locals there that might be interested? anybody who can at least jug up to the highpoint with me and give me a belay?
steve schneider
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Impressive.
Hope you find someone.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Steven....Steven said the final stretch to the belay involved crux hooking...talons,pointed and ground down micro hooks required!!
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mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
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Maybe you could get this guy to help you out. I think you know him....
If you really can't find anyone to go up there and belay you, I'll be back from the Eastside on Monday or Tuesday (Maybe even Sunday but wouldn't be able to get it together till Monday) and would welcome the time, any time, on El Cap.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2018 - 08:14pm PT
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next sundays the best day for me, i can recover from the work week a bit on saturday, and then get up early on sunday to avoid the heat.
it's not expensive, i'll be buyiing the beer, gas, etc . steve
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JakeW
Big Wall climber
CA
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Yo Shipoopi, I have zero interest in an extended and scary bigwall aid adventure. However, I can tell you that Stanley and I toproped a "real first pitch" to Mirage when we tried to free that thing. Was a glorious 5.11 face just below the 1st pitch anchor...amongst the finest face pitches anywhere. Just needs to be sport bolted! We wanted to equip it since it was so good and could be a fine el cap base route...but alas we got lazy after realizing the complete free route was a "mirage"...for us. Freed everything up to around pitch 5ish and we were within striking distance of the more featured rock, but a wee blank section was wearing out our rubber and tips at an alarming rate....
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2018 - 08:22am PT
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jake, that's cool that you were up there with stanley, i knew he was working on it about 5 years ago. how come you never ended up bolting the mirage direct? ss
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JakeW
Big Wall climber
CA
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Ultimately laziness i guess. We were demotivated since the whole wall wasn't going down for us, and I think we wanted our ropes out at Watkins. Not exactly convenient to get back up(down? across?) there once we pulled the rope. The original pitch is def a wild and goofy start to a wall!
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2018 - 07:55am PT
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i would happily swap belays on saturday in the valley for a belay on sunday, if anybody wants to commute from the bay with me. ss
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Shanelovesslab
Trad climber
Fresno,CA
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Hey Steve, I'm booked this week and next week unfortunately but I will be in the Valley for the next two months. If you need a belay I'm off on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday. Just let me know, Would love to help out.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2018 - 09:32am PT
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heading up tomorrow to try and find a partner for allied forces. got the next 2 weeks off. anybody game for some adventure on a second ascent of an el capitan route? let me know.
phone me at 209-988-9044. leave a voicemail if i don't answer, my screen is broke right now, steve
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gruzzy
Social climber
socal
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Sep 10, 2018 - 11:19am PT
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Can't you and your wife climb it alone?
I would think it would be more satisfying to not require the help of another person.
Auto trader has many cars to choose from.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2018 - 08:27am PT
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kingtut, the topo is in the new big wall guide by erik sloan. i am hoping to finish it off in the next 10-12 days.
i can't do it with my capable wife as she started work this week. steve
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Honu
Big Wall climber
Boulder
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Sep 11, 2018 - 04:08pm PT
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Steve, my names hayden, I've talked to you before about belaying you on allied forces, I'm working at he mountain room currently so I can belay you any morning, I start work at 4:45pm everyday so there is plenty of time to climb.
Also I ran into Ptpp in the meadow, he says he's got a 2/4 for you which I guess means plenty of beer. It's his birthday today.
I had your number before I broke my phone, I think I gave you my email but it's honu19@gmail.com if you want to get in contact about belays and stuff.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2018 - 08:47am PT
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thanks hayden, i will give you an eem, steve
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2018 - 10:51am PT
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well, before my little mishap on ROTFM, i did manage to finally get this route done after 13 months. dan farrar of turlock was the total hero and drove up and jugged 600 feet and belayed me on what was to turn out to be the crux pitch, pitch 3. on this outing, i pioneered a 40' variation, before realizing i was off route. i managed to meander back to a rivet on af and finish the pitch normally. i had to place two rivets on this variation. the first ascensionist somehow slyly got into a crack on the left that is hidden from the line i was on. i would estimate this crack to be around A4, and my variation was perhaps A3+.
Gerbeding wasn't too happy about the extra rivets when i told him. probably not a good idea to drill on his routes.
after that i recruited local monkey Tom Vokes to partner up with me under my credo of "fix high, party low". Eventually we pushed the ropes up 9 pitches, while making 3 of the five nights of facelift. Hayden Robinson helped out belaying a couple of days with us. in the final push we got camden clements to help us. he was invaluable in pushing the pace into the dark every day with high results. it was a pleasant 4 day romp to the top with big bivy ledges, beer, etc
this was my 45th el cap route. steve
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Oct 17, 2018 - 12:14pm PT
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Steve....are you saying you didn't repeat the crux?
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Oct 17, 2018 - 12:15pm PT
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I came across this photo of Steve. At first I thought it was me, then I thought it was Steve on Barbary Coast that we did together, but I see now it was him, probably on Belay-o-matic.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2018 - 09:19pm PT
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oh, we also never found the 7th pitch. and ended up doing a rappel from an offroute high point and pioneering our way to mirage via "the strip". later we found(bareley) where af surfs right off of mirage. ss
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don't have one
climber
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Oct 18, 2018 - 07:15am PT
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Good gawd....not sure what would be more fun to witness: the conversation between you and Steve, or a coffee session with you and Mr. Way.
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Burnin' Oil
Trad climber
CA
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Oct 18, 2018 - 11:21am PT
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Third pitch
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Pete_N
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Oct 18, 2018 - 03:08pm PT
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Way to go!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Oct 18, 2018 - 03:23pm PT
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Those photos sure make it look slabby and blank in those sections. I'm not saying it is all like that but to my eye, it is not a striking line for a formation with so many striking lines.
Just my 2 cents.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Oct 18, 2018 - 06:53pm PT
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Don't be dissing my route levy....get up there and do a proper repeat then slander!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Oct 18, 2018 - 08:22pm PT
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Beautiful stone in your images.
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