The legendary FRANCEK KNEZ is dead !

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Watermann2

Mountain climber
Saluzzo Italia
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 8, 2017 - 07:20am PT
One of the GREATEST and mild climbers of all time has left us.RIP.

FRANČEK KNEZ is one of the largest mountaineers ever and is considered universally as "the myth of modern Slovenian mountaineering". It begins to climb around 18 and in thirty years collects about 5,000 climbs, of which 729 are first ascents. Only on the north wall of the Slovenian mountain symbol, Triglav, rises 34 solo ways.

Speed ​​recorder for the uphill of Eiger North in 1982, opens a new route on the same mountain and, albeit in the Alps, signs first ascents on the North of the Matterhorn and Grandes Jorasses. In the Dolomites it leaves its mark in Marmolada, on the Piccolissima and on the Grande of Lavaredo, all extremely difficult and with minimal protection.

In the 1980s, he began a formidable non-European mountaineering activity that saw him star in the Hascaran, then in Himalayas on Everest, on the south of Lhotse, on Dhaulagiri, then on Patagonia, on Fitz Roy, on Cerro Tower and on the Egger Tower. Finally, the Kanchenjunga, the Nameless Tower of Trango, the East of Meru and the Bhagirathi.

In 1993 he miraculously saves on Annapurna from an avalanche that hits him and his partner Slavko Svetičič. After a very serious accident in 1999, despite several back operations, he managed to resume climbing and opening up to VIII in the Slovenian Alps, which he still does.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Oct 8, 2017 - 08:06am PT

Thank you for reminding us, Watermann2. Silvo Karo named him the "guru of modern Slovenian alpinism". What better recommendations could you ever get? RIP Francek Knez.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 8, 2017 - 10:04am PT
hey there say, watermann2 ... thank you for caring to share, here, about francek knez... i will go read more and learn more...

my condolences to his family and loved ones, and
it is GOOD to keep 'those that went before' remembered,
for those that follow...

thank you, again...


wow, i found this:

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP52/a-mysertious-lonely-path


my grampa was slovenian, so it is GOOD to learn
about a slovenian climber, it will bring more reminders
to me, of the country, :)


and this:

https://sl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Franc_Knez
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Oct 8, 2017 - 10:29am PT

Thanks Neebee

Here's how Bernadette McDonald starts the article:

Gasping for breath, I galloped through the forest, trying to keep up with Slovenian alpinist Francek Knez before he disappeared below the brow of a cliff. The ground was treacherous, covered in slippery beech leaves and littered with rounded boulders. Yet the fifty-nine- year-old Francek sprinted ahead with an almost preternatural sure-footedness as I stumbled behind him. I was clearly failing one of his basic requirements of an alpinist: the ability to move quickly in the woods. He'd grown up playing in the forests behind his parents' house in Rimske Toplice, a town in eastern Slovenia near his current home in Lasko. "If you know how to walk in a steep forest, through rotting, slippery leaves, then you know how to walk everywhere," Francek told me when I caught up with him.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 8, 2017 - 11:06am PT
while researching the FA names I was befuddled by the entry in the 1996 Reid's guide: "Knez Fran;abcek and Fre;abser Marjan"

two routes in the Upper Yosemite Falls, East area, listed at "Seand Paradise" and "East of Pardise" put up in March or 1982 and 1983, respectively.

After a bit of creative web searching I concluded that the abhorrent punctuation were likely to have been accents marks gone bad... and the family names transposed,

Franček Knez
Marjan Freser

and I was slightly aghast that such an international figure was so invisible to the Yosemite climbing scene. The route name was also slightly wrong, though that could be due to a difficulty in translating into English...

but I was able to get in touch through the network of climbers to elaborate on the history, and get more information on the climbs.

These guys did incredible climbs flying under the radar, at least American radar.

Legendary indeed.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 8, 2017 - 11:31am PT
hey there, say, marlow... wow, i LOVE this:

"If you know how to walk in a steep forest, through rotting, slippery leaves, then you know how to walk everywhere," Francek told me when I caught up with him.


:)

thanks for sharing...


see, we CAN learn so much, at the ol' supertopo, :)


(adding a thank you, to ol' chris, too)
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 8, 2017 - 11:33am PT
hey there, say, ed... very nice share, thank you so much... :)


edit:
hhaha, say, marlow, as to GUIDO... just saw that...
i was just going to add that in, here, too...

he had a very good! link...

here is his post:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=3018611&tn=0#msg3018719
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Oct 9, 2017 - 12:44pm PT

From a link posted by Guido on another thread:

62-year-old Slovenian mountaineer Franček Knez died on 6 October 2017. Reserved and modest, Knez was considered by many as one of the strongest alpinists of his generation. Published below is a profile written by Slovenian journalist Urban Golob in 2010 when, together with Silvo Karo, Knez was conferred the Order of Merit for his contributions to mountaineering.

Franček Knez began climbing back in 1973. Since then he has climbed more than 5000 routes and by the year 2005 he carried out 730 first ascents. He has climbed in the Slovenian Alps, the Himalaya, Patagonia, Yosemite and Andes and is one of ony a handful of climbers who made first ascents in all "Three Problems of Alps" the Eiger, Matterhorn, and Grandes Jorasses . In the summer of 1982 he climbed the original route up the North Face of the Eiger in just six hours, the fastest ascent at the time. He has also traced routes on some of the important faces in the Dolomites, such as the Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Killer on Cima Picolissima and Moč misli - The Power of Thoughts - on the North Face of Cima Grande, now partly followed by the bolted route ISO 2000), as well as the Mamolada, Civetta and Tofana.

Together with Silvo Karo and Janez Jeglič, Franček Knez climbed many difficult routes in the Slovenian Alps, but the three are known above all for their climbs in Patagonia when there was still much wilderness to be explored. First ascents by the "Three Musketeers" as Knez, Karo and Jeglič were dubbed, were carried out on Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and Torre Egger and highly respected by Patagonian veterans.


The link to planetmountain.com:
http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/goodbye-to-francek-knez-slovenia-silent-climber.html
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 9, 2017 - 05:42pm PT
hey there, say, marlow... AMONG other things, from that link,
i was impressed by this:

Thirteen years ago Francek was involved in a climbing accident due to his belayer at his local crag. He broke his back, but thanks to his determination and positive thinking he completely recovered and he still keeps on climbing new routes in some of his secret places in the Slovenian Alps. After a long period of gentle persuasion Francek Knez finally wrote his book “Ožarjeni Kamen” a couple of years ago. It has not been translated.


also, say, i do not know how many 'first ascends' are the 'norm'
but, this sure was something (to me) :

Franček Knez began climbing back in 1973. Since then he has climbed more than 5000 routes and by the year 2005 he carried out 730 first ascents


and, this is sweet--very very nice:
The Order of Merit has provided national and international recognition to one of the most powerful climbers who, interestingly, has never searched for media attention and has never promoted himself. Exactly the opposite is true. He has always been a silent, modest, hardworking man with a regular factory job even while carrying out his unbelievable amount of alpine ascents.

http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/events/francek-knez-and-silvo-karo-slovenian-order-of-merit-for-alpinism.html
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Oct 9, 2017 - 06:53pm PT
Just the kind of news I love to hear [edit: should be; the kind of person I love to hear about and probably would not have if it weren't for SuperTopo]. Thanks all who have posted.

It may only be coincidence but today on the phone there was a brief message from a Slovenian partner of mine, now living in Germany. He said he would call back.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Oct 10, 2017 - 03:48pm PT
Read this guy's full resume. BADASS squared
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
Oct 10, 2017 - 11:33pm PT
well known in Europe, one of the most accomplished climbers anywhere. Respect for the life of this humble Slovenian.

shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Oct 11, 2017 - 09:57am PT
he was a truly badass climber, one of the elite slovenians that were known for suffering and sending.
does anybody know how he passed? ss
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Oct 11, 2017 - 10:30am PT
He died in a fall from a single pitch climb. No details from the website I got this from
Mitja

Trad climber
Tahoma, CA
Oct 20, 2017 - 09:34pm PT
Sožalje. Vsi bomo pogrešali Frančeka. Bil je imenitni človek.
Srečno pot Franček!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Oct 21, 2017 - 02:24am PT

Thanks for posting up, Mitja.

Below is a page from the book Alpine Warriors by Bernadette McDonald. The page ends with the words of Francek: "The threads of life are thin and whoever steps onto the thin rock edge that separates the here from the hereafter is able to see the true dimensions of life"...


https://books.google.no/books?id=Lmw9CgAAQBAJ&pg=PT132&lpg=PT132&dq=FRANCEK+KNEZ&source=bl&ots=N9-WJparxl&sig=KXA5pcdXhybCOHHGx8X6G5augBQ&hl=no&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwibvKLKroHXAhUnJJoKHT3RDXg4HhDoAQhkMAg#v=onepage&q=FRANCEK%20KNEZ&f=false

Mitja

Trad climber
Tahoma, CA
Oct 25, 2017 - 12:28pm PT
And thank you for posting the excerpt from Bernadette's book. As Silvo said " takih ne delajo več! ". Translated: "they don't make them like that anymore." A friend from Slovenia said there were a thousand or so at the funeral. That's a lot for a tiny country.
It's a testament to his impact and how revered he is.

The story I heard is that he fell 20m to his death while getting dirt for his garden. I'll be in Slovenia next week and will get more details. I met Franček in ~1983 in Yosemite and hosted him at my home in Berkeley. Was hoping to look him up on this trip to Slovenia. Sad that won't be possible. I'm planning to climb a few routes in his honor with his friends.
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