How to get lost in Yosemite (TR)

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 40 of total 40 in this topic
moosedrool

climber
Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 5, 2017 - 03:35pm PT
I promised my daughter, Martyna (aka Little Moosie) to climb with me the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock two years ago. Because of our conflicting schedules and my health problems, we kept postponing the climb. Finally, on September 27th 2017, while drinking beer on the pizza deck, we hatched a plan. We will pack the gear today, get up early tomorrow and go. Martyna says that since I've climbed the route before, I will be responsible for the logistics. Ha! I think Little Moosie had too much beer when she put me in charge. My ability to get lost is legendary. My mind tend to wander, I lose sense of time, and when I come back to reality, I often have no Idea where I am. One time, I managed to get lost in an elevator! Anyway, I figured, leave camp at 8AM, start climbing at 9AM, 6+ hours climbing and 1.5h rappelling; we should be back at the base around 5PM. We'll have time for shower and pizza. Great!

The next day we managed to leave camp at 8:30AM. Just a bit behind the schedule. No big deal.
We park close to the trailhead, and off we go. Martyna finds the trail, and I take the lead because I "know" where to cut right to the watershed. After 30min of hiking a steep but nice trail, I start looking for the trail leading to the watershed. "I don't see the trail, Martyna, let's keep going". After 15 more minutes, still no trail to the right. "Martyna, I think we are too high". She says we are on the trail to the Higher Cathedral Spire. (She climbed it a year ago). "OK, let's go right and then down". Five minutes of bush whacking gets us to the watershed. And the fun begins! Huge boulders, impassible boulders, loose boulders. But at least I know we need to go down and to the left. We meet a group of climbers going up to the Higher Cathedral Spire. Now, I am the wise one, "guys, there is a better trail to your left". Five minutes later, we meet another couple going up. We point them to the right trail too. Finally, after navigating some really sketchy terrain, I recognize where we are. Five minutes later, we are at the base. It's 10:30AM already. No problem, we should be back to the car by 7PM. At least we are alone on the climb!

At the base.
At the base.
Credit: moosedrool

Martyna says she haven't led anything for a few months, so it might take her some time before she is at a 100%. Ha, I plot a devious plan. "OK, Martyna, the first pitch is 5.6, so go first and warm up. We'll swap leads". Since she haven't looked at the topo, she doesn't know that the fifth pitch is a 5.10 face climb. If we swap leads, she would lead it! (She is a much better face climber than I am, and 5.10 face can be scary).

The first two pitches are uneventful. Martyna takes the third pitch. "Half rope!" "OK!" The pitch supposed to be 100', but she is still climbing. "10 feet!" I yell. Finally, I hear, "off belay"! Hmm, where is she? Only a few feet of rope left...

I get to the belay. "Martyna, you have connected pitches three and four. I was supposed to lead pitch four, and you were supposed to lead pitch five!" I confess my devious plan of putting her on the 5.10 pitch. She is laughing, "not any more, your lead!".

What a great climb!  But, where is your helmet?
What a great climb! But, where is your helmet?
Credit: moosedrool

Top of pitch 4.  "I outsmarted you, dad.  You lead!
Top of pitch 4. "I outsmarted you, dad. You lead!
Credit: moosedrool

We look at the remnants of the rock fall.

Damn!
Damn!
Credit: moosedrool

OK, then, my lead. I take the "Fifty Crowded Variation", 5.10a, instead of the regular 5.10c route. I climb the face with good bolt protection and get to the crux. "Damn, that's a pretty high reach" I am thinking. "Thank gods I got this pitch, Martyna is too short to reach it. It's probably .10d move with an uncertain next move. That would be quite stressful to her" I get to the bolted belay with a sight of relieve, it is a good pitch, though.

Martyna joins me, and we look at the topo. We are uncertain where to go. "Are we at the optional belay?" The features don't match... Well, we need to get moving. Martyna takes the lead, navigates the awkward undercling/jam, goes around to the left, and keeps going to the unknown. Finally, "off belay!".

I climb to Martyna and see she is a bit nervous.

I give up, we are lost.
I give up, we are lost.
Credit: moosedrool

It looks like the only way up is to lower down first, about 30', pendulum to the chimney, and then go up. I am not sure if we are back on the regular route. I see a chimney on the topo, but I also see to my left a flaring, scary looking chimney, then an off width, then a roof. I really don't want to clim that. Also, without a second rope, the follower would have a huge problem to get to the chimney. Bailing is out of the question too. Nowhere to rappel. We are weighing our options. Climb down to the last belay, or find an alternative route? Since we still don't know where we went off the route, I decide to look for an alternative route. I traverse to the right over the arret. A 100' to the right I see a crack system in the left facing corner. "That must be it!" I'm thinking. The only thing is, I need to get there. The travers to the corner is steep, but I see some features, no protection, though. Well, I just can't fall, that's all. The travers turned out to be 5.7 mostly, with a few moves 5.8+. I get to the corner and see chalk marks. Yes! I go up and and set up a belay using a new looking piton backed with two cams. I see two old pitons above me. I am on top of pitch 7! "Martyna, I found the route!" She comes over and we are happy again.

Little Moosie is happy again.
Little Moosie is happy again.
Credit: moosedrool

Little Moosie on pitch 10.
Little Moosie on pitch 10.
Credit: moosedrool

We climb the next three fun pitches, and it's after 5PM already.

We decide to skip the last pitch, and rappel. I rappel looking for the second anchor.

Where are those next rappel chains?
Where are those next rappel chains?
Credit: moosedrool

I am 20m down, and no anchors in sight. Lost for the third time today. Awesome! I stand on a ledge and place a cam. "Off rappel!" "Martyna, you need to find the rappel anchors, I got lost". "What?!" "They must be to the left. After you get to the anchors, I will "Batman" to you". She finds the anchors, I "Batman" up, and proceed with the rest (11?) rappels. When we get to the bottom, it's dark already. Martyna gives me her head lamp to get to the base. We pack and walk down.

The end? No! I got lost for the forth time that day, on the descent. More bush whacking! No time for shower or pizza. We go back to camp. Martyna warms up a sup, I eat cold spare ribs with beer.

Almost 12 hours camp to camp. Almost an adventure! Happy ending.

Moose
L

climber
Tiptoeing through the chilly waters of life
Oct 5, 2017 - 03:42pm PT
Lol! I loved it!
Mike.

climber
Oct 5, 2017 - 03:58pm PT
Family time on the rock nice! Good climbing, meese. Thanks for the reportage.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Oct 5, 2017 - 04:06pm PT
Finally, on October 27th 2017, while drinking beer on the pizza deck, we hatched a plan.

First TR from the future!!!!! :)

Thanks for sharing, sounds like a full value day and gets me excited to climb with my daughter someday.

Credit: limpingcrab
So far she's a terrible belayer.
moosedrool

climber
Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2017 - 04:08pm PT
LOL, Limpingcrab! Fixed it.

Cool picture!

Moose
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Oct 5, 2017 - 04:19pm PT
Looks like a great time
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 5, 2017 - 04:35pm PT
A "great time" would've been something like under 4 hrs up & down.

You gotta get this multipitch thing under control, Moose, or yer gonna die!
Just sayin' while belayin'.
Just sayin' while belayin'.
Credit: mouse from merced
Congratulations and I really wish I could've been up to climbing this stellar trade route with you.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Oct 5, 2017 - 05:22pm PT
Dug it! 5-stars for climbing with daughters
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Oct 5, 2017 - 05:38pm PT
good times Moose. I tried to warn you about those long ropes. hahaha

Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
Oct 5, 2017 - 05:38pm PT
A great family outing,
Awesomeness 👍
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Oct 5, 2017 - 06:14pm PT
Good value!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 5, 2017 - 06:20pm PT
hey there say, moose... wonderful father daughter share, :)

wonderful!
yosguns

climber
Oct 5, 2017 - 06:43pm PT
So fun! Glad you and Martyna got lost and unlost in Yosemite! :-D
jonnyrig

climber
Oct 5, 2017 - 07:03pm PT
Nice Moose
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Oct 5, 2017 - 07:24pm PT
Way to go Moose's!
TFPU
Tad
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
Oct 5, 2017 - 07:41pm PT
Moose! Heidi & I think you are a hero for:

1. Climbing the route without Donini.
2. Climbing the route on a short fall day.
3. Sharing a classic route with your daughter.
4. Maybe?? Having fun?
5. Making it off the mountain without a cold-bivy.
6. Not dying.

Here's to you my friend!

Moosedrool climbs!
Moosedrool climbs!
Credit: Fritz
moosedrool

climber
Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2017 - 08:31pm PT
Thank you all!

Fritz & Heidi, Donini told me I am a big boy now. No diapers anymore!

Moose
drF

Trad climber
usa
Oct 5, 2017 - 08:53pm PT
Moose,

Dig your posts. You get it done. Bravo!
Ney Grant

Trad climber
Pollock Pines
Oct 6, 2017 - 08:02am PT
very nice!
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Oct 6, 2017 - 08:22am PT
Wonderful!

The family that gets lost together... saves the cost of a pizza?
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Oct 6, 2017 - 08:28am PT
Leaving camp at 0830? What could go wrong?
And rapping off when there's an easy walkoff? :-/
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
Oct 6, 2017 - 08:29am PT
Route finding is all it's cracked up to be! 🤣 Cheers to you both!
ionlyski

Trad climber
Polebridge, Montana
Oct 6, 2017 - 08:33am PT
Awesome! You sound just like me Moose. I know where I'm going.

Arne
clarkolator

climber
Oct 6, 2017 - 08:52am PT
Love this TR!
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Oct 6, 2017 - 09:18am PT
Nice Moose. I must have climbed this route untold times. Never rapped it however as the descent is way cool and doesn't require a rap if you tunnel through at one point.

Good job!
TWP

Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
Oct 6, 2017 - 11:38am PT
Your daughter: What a great climbing partner!

Now that you know the route and the many ways to get lost (and not get lost), let's go climb this thing!
moosedrool

climber
Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2017 - 12:02pm PT
Terry, are you sure I know my way?

I climbed it before with Donini and still got lost. In a week I will most likely forget the route completely.

Remember our last few climbs? Once I started climbing 5.11, got to the first bolt and you reminded me I was not tied in? The other time I did tie in, but forgot the rack!

Dementia, fer sur!

Moose
Vica

Sport climber
Budapest, Hungary
Oct 8, 2017 - 07:55am PT
Good job, Moose and Moosie :) creative climbing :)
Climbing and being lost with you two must be fun :))
I am so glad i met you two:)
Love this story, happy you were back safe.
KlimbIn

climber
Sandstonia
Oct 8, 2017 - 01:05pm PT
Nice TR, thanks.

"I was supposed to lead pitch four, and you were supposed to lead pitch five!"
Obviously you've raised a smart one!
moosedrool

climber
Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2017 - 09:23am PT
Did I mention it was fun?

Climbing with Little Moosie is awesome. She is very a good climber, and a person you always want to be around.

Our little adventure didn't put us in any danger. Just my usual "I am not sure which way to go". But, I always find my way, eventually.

Moose
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Oct 11, 2017 - 09:30am PT
Fun? If climbing was meant to be fun there would be Unicorns on the ledges! :-/
moosedrool

climber
Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2017 - 09:37am PT
Reilly, would a Moose instead of a unicorn do for you?

Above Genoa, NV
Above Genoa, NV
Credit: moosedrool

Moose
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Oct 11, 2017 - 09:41am PT
Moose, Lovely romp with Moose 2.0. It was great to meet your family. I was a tiny bit jealous when you guys went off to climb without me but now that I see this, all is forgiven. I had fun making a fool of myself while floundering about on Sunnyside Bench with Dave Y. Hope to climb or ski with you soon.
kingtut

Social climber
carmel, ca
Oct 11, 2017 - 11:15am PT
Strong work Moose and Moosette!

Treasure these fall days with perfect weather in the Valley.
moosedrool

climber
Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2017 - 02:47pm PT
Spider, sorry about that. Will make up to you have you skiing with me for a week. You will get sick of me for sur! Hehehe

Back to climbing. My climbing equipment improved over the years.

Three years ago I had a sling for the harness.
Am I gunna die?!
Am I gunna die?!
Credit: Big Mike

Moose
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Oct 11, 2017 - 03:04pm PT
Are you gonna die?

Not so that you would remember it.



Reilly:

And rapping off when there's an easy walkoff? :-/


Reilly needs to catch up. There is a rap line now, easier and safer than the walk.
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Oct 11, 2017 - 03:45pm PT
Moose,

I climbed the route twice in '65. Once with Mark Powell and once with Russ McLean. It's 2017 and I don't even know where Middle Cathedral is.
moosedrool

climber
Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2017 - 03:53pm PT
Don, its just over the mountains from Bishop! Come over to the next year Facelift, and I will show you.

:-)

Moose

Btw, free ascent?
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Oct 12, 2017 - 07:26pm PT
Dang! Just saw this! Good work Moose!
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Oct 12, 2017 - 11:12pm PT
So funny!
Messages 1 - 40 of total 40 in this topic
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews