Margo Hayes sends Biographie/Realization(5.15a)

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Messages 21 - 36 of total 36 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 3, 2017 - 04:26pm PT
I won’t be able to confirm the rating until the gout in my big toe subsides.
clifff

Mountain climber
golden, rollin hills of California
Oct 4, 2017 - 07:45am PT
Also: Anak Verhoeven On Making the First Female 5.15a First Ascent

http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/anak-verhoeven-on-making-the-first-female-5-15a-first-ascent



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5wjYi362Oo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y3SGyinz_6A
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2018 - 12:11am PT
Here's a link to climbing.com which has the full length video of Margo Hayes sending Biographie

https://www.climbing.com/videos/raw-video-margo-hayes-redpoints-biographie-realization-5-15-9a/
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Jan 3, 2018 - 12:24am PT
Yikes! Skipped the third clip!
Nuglet

Trad climber
Orange Murica!
Jan 3, 2018 - 09:36am PT
doens't count if she didn't place gear

sad
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
Jan 3, 2018 - 09:55am PT
^^^LOL


Cool video
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Jan 3, 2018 - 09:59am PT
I like how after her 2nd clip she chalks up 9 times! Total subconscious preparation routine.
Nuglet

Trad climber
Orange Murica!
Jan 3, 2018 - 11:00am PT
she'll only be a real climber when she does 'trad' and gets trad gear sponsor
Splater

climber
Grey Matter
Jan 3, 2018 - 11:14am PT
"I like how after her 2nd clip she chalks up 9 times!"

sounds like her route is about the same as my FA on Sunday at Woodson.
Smooth topout required mucho chalking & clean hands.
Failed the first try & had to wash my hands.
At least V1a+ ! (unconfirmed by UIAA olympic judges)
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
Jan 3, 2018 - 11:18am PT
Nuglet, don't forget the best one: anyone can climb that if they work it to death....
Nuglet

Trad climber
Orange Murica!
Jan 3, 2018 - 12:44pm PT
exactly. she is just 'gym strong' or something
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 3, 2018 - 01:55pm PT
"or something". Classic ego move trying to discredit someone elses accomplishment.
Rock!...oopsie.

Trad climber
the pitch above you
Jan 4, 2018 - 06:48pm PT
Grippa and Nuglet team up to prove for the 10,000,000,000th time that the internet is an inhospitable place for sarcastic humor.
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Jan 5, 2018 - 03:58pm PT



Awesome climbing accomplishments! Girls rock!



BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2018 - 12:48pm PT
Nice article on Margo Hayes at Outside:

https://www.outsideonline.com/2282396/extraordinary-effort-margo-hayes
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Apr 2, 2018 - 02:36pm PT
I saw Real Rock recently that profiled Margo and her 15a ascents.
The filmmaker had a story line that Margo more-or-less "came out of nowhere," which seemed completely wrong and solely intended to hype the story.
The Outside article seems to play up the same out-of-nowhere story:

Even core climbing observers didn’t see that coming. Unlike, say, Shiraishi, who’s been in the spotlight since age 11, when she was profiled in the New York Times, Hayes has operated mostly under the radar.


But then the truth comes out in the same article:

Hayes began competing almost immediately, eventually winning a spot on USA Climbing’s national team. In 2013, she earned the North Face Young Gun Award, which honors up-and-coming climbers. Three years later, in 2016, she won three golds at the World Youth Championships, realized her goal of sending fourteen 5.14s during the year (an objective documented on one of her lists, of course), and won Climbing’s Golden Piton award

Not sure why various people (Cedar Wright, Outside) are hyping the out-of-nowhere story--maybe Margo herself is pushing it to create a better narrative for monetizing her fame? (Or maybe Margo is innocent in this malfeasance--I don't really know, just trying to figure it out.)
But it's clearly a crock, as she's been a documented top-level female climber since long before the 15a's.
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