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john hansen
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 19, 2017 - 11:07pm PT
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The Don Lauria post about the second ascent of the North American Wall in 1968 got me thinking,,
How did most people get back to Camp 4 ?
They climbed the North American Wall and hiked out to Tamarack.
In 71 when he and Robbins did the second ascent of the Wall of Early Morning Light he said they went down the East Ledges and Robbin's had it dialed.
So , who found and established the East Ledge rappel route?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Sep 19, 2017 - 11:33pm PT
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I'm proposing a zip line from El Cap summit to The mountain room bar.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Cascade Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Sep 19, 2017 - 11:41pm PT
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The East Ledges route has been used long before Royal's time.
The hike out to Tamarak is just more convenient if you have a host of friends waiting to help carry out the haul bags.
From the summit of the NA wall ascent, Pratt and Chouinard tossed off one of the haul bags with soft unbreakable items in it. They never could find the bag. Theory is that some people watching from the meadows saw it fall and went up to retrieve (steal) it.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 20, 2017 - 01:14am PT
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There are at least 3 ways to rap at the final part of the East Ledges.
All were established as climbs in the late 1950s and early 1960s:
1471. El Capitan - East Ledges - West Side FA: Henry Kendall, Bill Pope, 1961
1472. El Capitan - East Ledges - East Side FA: Henry Kendall, Gerry Czamanske, 1958
1473. El Capitan - East Ledge Traverse FA: Allen Steck, Bill Dunmire, Jim Wilson, 1954
The original descent was the East Ledge Traverse.
At some point (probably late 1960s or early 1970s), the first 2 routes gained semi permanent rappel anchors and they are the rappel routes most people use these days.
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| Messages 1 - 4 of total 4 in this topic |
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