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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2017 - 10:14pm PT
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Hansen,
I have no recollection of the summit party other than Conrad Willet, a partner of mine on the Chouinard-Herbert on the north face of Sentinel. But of course Royal was there briefly. There were probably another 5 or 6 friends up there, but I have no idea now who they were. We exited via Tamarack.
The only time I ever used a different exit route was with Royal after the Dawn wall. He had the east ledges wired. We were down in a matter of minutes it seemed to me. Probably more like over an hour - slightly. That's minutes isn't it?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Sep 19, 2017 - 10:41pm PT
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Dolt Twinkledolt - wow! would be cool to see.
thx for posting up Don! I hate walling in the heat too.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2017 - 11:11pm PT
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Munge,
I think I still have my Twinkledolt. If I can find it, I'll post a photo.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 20, 2017 - 02:12am PT
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Judging from the photo of your grimy hands, Don, I'd say Galen Rowell was on the summit with Hansen et al.
You must have had a Thing about the Leaning Tower (totally understandable), having done it so many times.
And your haul bag sounds like it was planned by some NASA guy.
Do you still have that boonie hat?
And I didn't know Boo Dawg had bagged Nose #8 til now.
What a treasure chest you are! Thanks for sharing all this in such scintillating prose, too.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 20, 2017 - 06:46am PT
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Nice stuff Don! I'm really glad that Clint got those photos in, they were running though my mind as I read this.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Sep 20, 2017 - 09:03am PT
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Wonderful story. Great story telling!
Brings back memories of the days filled with the sounds of driving pitons and the smell of granite dust.
I still recall the slide show you gave in the LA area (of the NA wall). I can still picture some of the images. It had a big impact on my young life.
Thank you for taking the time to recount your great adventures. It means a lot to many f us.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2017 - 09:57am PT
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Phil,
Just got through sorting those slides you saw. There's 90 of them. I'm thinking of post 40 of them here. Think that's appropriate?
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Sep 20, 2017 - 10:05am PT
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Yes Don.
Please post them.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Sep 20, 2017 - 10:21am PT
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I'm thinking of post 40 of them here. Think that's appropriate?
A more appropriate qualifier would be "mandatory."
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Podunk Climber
Trad climber
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Sep 20, 2017 - 12:29pm PT
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Bump for added photos
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Sep 20, 2017 - 12:31pm PT
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This is the kind of story that keeps me coming back!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Sep 20, 2017 - 12:54pm PT
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More photos please!
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2017 - 12:59pm PT
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Hey Mouse,
Didn't work for NASA, but assembly sequence was critical,
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 20, 2017 - 01:55pm PT
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Wow, thanks for adding the photos!
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Sep 20, 2017 - 01:56pm PT
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Don
Agree with above comments.
Post your slides! It will be great fun see them again!
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2017 - 03:48pm PT
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Promised photos
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 20, 2017 - 03:58pm PT
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Pounding and placing pins back then was a beautiful art form.
It was full on display in those days of the North American Wall.
These modern climbers that never did it scoff at this.
These modern climbers have no art form with their sterile easy cam placements and non-shoulder bruising loads.
It was an art form placing pitons in long expanding thin pitches and bottomed out cracks so you wouldn't rip.
Now a daze they just paste pussy heads into the cracks.
I think passive gear and portaledges should be illegal. :-)
That way there would very few climbers lining up for big walls.
Heh heh heh ......
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Sep 20, 2017 - 04:32pm PT
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Nice "harness"..
Nice "helmet" too.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 20, 2017 - 04:48pm PT
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Bravura performance on posting photos lately, Don.
We can't thank you enough.
And I know what you mean about the arms.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Sep 20, 2017 - 05:17pm PT
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What a trip.
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