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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 20, 2017 - 06:42am PT
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I thought cream was harder than Freestone or powerpoint's Odub. I onsight led freestone and PP. had to come back a second time for cream
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Sep 20, 2017 - 09:17am PT
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The last year I replaced the belay bolt of the ow pitch,now you can safely rapel, and I replace the first bolt of the following pitch. I used the same hole of the old bolt(see the picture).
Tarallo is that the infamously bad bolt that protects the cruxy face moves?
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tarallo
Trad climber
italy
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Sep 20, 2017 - 09:27am PT
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yes it is.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Sep 20, 2017 - 12:10pm PT
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thank you Tarallo for bolt replacement on powerpoint. We should return the courtesy and sent Erik Sloan for business trip to Italy for some bolt replacements there too.
It is hard to compare how hard ow are, but once I did 4 notorious Yosemite OW during one weekend [ all on lead except of Generator] and sorted them in order of difficulty from harder to easier : Stepping Out [ hardest] , TZone, Cream, Generator [ but Generator has hardest individual move from the deck if you not using el sharpo]
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Sep 20, 2017 - 02:00pm PT
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yes it is.
You da man, Tarallo. Thank you!
What was your assessment of the strength of the old one?
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tarallo
Trad climber
italy
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Sep 20, 2017 - 02:09pm PT
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Le Bruce I do not know what I can say is that it was not completely in.
I do not remember if half size out
Now stainless bolt , and the second seemed good. closeto the first bolt there is a very good cam placement, blue and yellow totem if I remember.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Sep 20, 2017 - 04:03pm PT
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I feel like the Rostrum is the easiest multi pitch route as far as Valley 5.11s go. If you have a lot of trouble on it, work to get better at climbing Valley 5.11s (cookie cliff/arch rock laps!), or wait till you slowly acquire the skills and simply try it. Don't pay attention to internet as much, it will only scare you off from trying. Internet is evil.
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Ghost Bear
Social climber
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Sep 20, 2017 - 06:24pm PT
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If I can lead up the Moratorium (not done yet) and Rostrum (flailed badly), am comfortable on Stoner's (I cruised the easiest 1st pitch before my partner mutinied), am I gonna die?
So your resume includes:
1) A route you have not yet done.
2) A route on which you "flailed badly."
3) A 10-pitch route from which you bailed after the first pitch.
And you're asking how you'll do on something that is harder and scarier than all of them?
This has to be a troll.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 20, 2017 - 06:31pm PT
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We respond favorably to trolls around here.
It's the Taco way...
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katiebird
climber
yosemite
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Climbed Freestone yesterday, leading every pitch on what I can only describe as one of the best locations in the Valley. I had to work hard on the OW and found it to be harder than any of the other 11 OWs around. Regardless, it's a mega classic route and to those looking to go I'd suggest being a proficient Valley climber, lest you quake in your boots.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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congratulations! it's gotta be as cool as it gets, that buzz is buzzin' way on down the line
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WBraun
climber
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I wonder how hard that one move that was pinned out on the first ascent would be if it wasn't?
It's definitely a very crucial move on that pitch ....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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KatieBird!
Consensus is now in your hands.
It's a wonderful excursion on the stone, right?
And that's exactly what your picture shows ...
Thanks for posting up!
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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I agree that the ow is super hard. there's some beta floating around that says it's much easier to layback and aint that the truth..
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Damn!! Beautiful photo.
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