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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 19, 2017 - 01:09pm PT
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So... what's up with this route? And what's the "road to Freestone" consist of?
It sure looks like some steeper/maybe scary 5.10 through all the sub-grades, a tough 11a move down low, the most spectacular 5.11a layback ever, and an 11c fist/OW that would likely have gear. Clearly this was meant to be climbed in the spring. Clearly I need a partner who has no idea what the route is about otherwise they won't hike up there to begin with...
If I can lead up the Moratorium (not done yet) and Rostrum (flailed badly), am comfortable on Stoner's (I cruised the easiest 1st pitch before my partner mutinied), am I gonna die?
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Sep 19, 2017 - 01:13pm PT
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If you flailed on Rostrum, you won't have a good time on Freestone. Freestone is harder and more heads up for certain! You wouldn't want to do the route in spring, the spray from Yosemite falls soaks the rock. Mid summer or fall is best. I would suggest doing a face route like Stoners Highway, the whole thing, and perhaps Arches Terrace direct. Thin face climbing protected by gear, not bolts. The so called "most classic layback pitch" is not that classic and had glaring ugly pin scars. The upper fist/lieback/offwidth pitch is burly! Not too technical but there is a transition going from fist & OW to liebacking that might give some folks trouble. If you have a big green BD #'s 5 & 6, you'll be good on big gear. The face pitches will be best when temperatures are low so an early start is a must.
Have at it and take lots of photos!
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 19, 2017 - 03:07pm PT
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You failed on Rostrum.
Better stay at home for this one.
Honnold will show up and free solo the thing in 30 minutes and turn the whole thing into a one pitch climb.
He'll downclimb the center route to get off ....
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 19, 2017 - 03:49pm PT
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I took 120 over Tioga pass, when I did it.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 19, 2017 - 04:38pm PT
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Ha ha. Good one, Jay!
I was already in the Valley, and little Sue knew the best way through Sunnyside Bench, so no need for any roads whatsoever.
Perry Beckham and I went up there quite a few years earlier, via the Falls trail, and slept at the base. We were pelted by blowing ice droplets all night, and didn't sleep a wink. End of attempt, before even roping up.
That was one of the last times I let anybody talk me into sleeping at the base of anything. Much better just to get up early and do the approach, and start climbing with some heat already in the body.
When I moved to Colorado, I had a partner for The Diamond who once again talked me into sleeping up at Chasm View. The wind blew all night, we woke up wasted and went right back down the trail.
I thought to myself: I've got to stop letting people talk me into that stupid tactic!
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2017 - 05:04pm PT
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The serious wisdom recommends routes like Stoners and Arches Terrace Direct. However, is Freestone a bit steeper, like stuff up at Slab Happy (which is, ironically, steeper)?
Also wisdom is that I should be cruising the Rostrum and A-Man before this.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 19, 2017 - 05:16pm PT
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Cheers Roy on the roadless, travel!
I did Astroman, powerpoint, the DNB, the nabisco wall, new dimensions, the wide route ( edit Blind Faith)on the rostrum, the west face of el cap free, what's its name on ( edit Hotline)elephant rock, & Morbutt before doing it
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Sep 19, 2017 - 06:15pm PT
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Offwidth pitch was a piece of cake compared to some of the thinner pitches, IMO. Sheesh, I was glad to have the thin-crack-gun that I had -- Rob Rohn.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 19, 2017 - 08:08pm PT
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Cripes, nobody clicks through and anything ...
Here's my story:
Geek Towers, Freestone:
Dan and Sue are married now. I've always maintained he married well as she will lead him up the many routes on his wish list. It is true: little Sue is small at 5 ft. tall; but she talks about little matters and climbs like nobody's business. Three days away from the crack laced, arm bustin’ towers of the desert and my left forearm still holds a knot the size of an avocado pit. Sue and I scamper for an hour across gravelly ledges and up mossy, warped third class granite. We rope up next to the roar of Yosemite Falls and run vertically; trading leads, Sue and I ascend big, difficult crack split slabs. Sue punches it out with a near vertical shallow crack that has little protection and fewer holds. She shakes out an arm and declares, "This is bad ass!". I belay from below, observe and sing, "Wake up little Susie, wake up". We race through the sun up into the upper reaches of myth and shade of Free Stone. It is a long free climbed touted for arm wrenching finger, fist, and offwidth cracks. The route rears out the double overhung left side of Geek Towers.
Above me on overhanging, greasy, and insecure thin cracks, Sue stems and frets, “This is hard man stuff ". She is simply correct and livin' it on lead. Higher along, I stuff a black Lycra knee into a brilliant peach colored fat crack. I pause and gander beneath me; our turquoise trail line hangs free from my waist and floats in the breeze. Tucked into a corner 50 ft. below is 5 ft. of plutonium girl. 500 ft. below her lie the chalk laden vertical slabs we fried up for breakfast. Dangling from fists engorged by the granite crack I look down upon the slabs. Our lower route resembles a gigantic Sanskrit tablet inscribed with the language of chalky fingertip travel. Stabbing in a wild turkey sized protection device, I jump into layback and bellow a war cry. My shout is met by a faint echo: an Indian screamed when he put the arrow in Custer's crotch.
My partner wears an aqua halter top and sports knee length Lycra. She has long pony tailed hair the color of oiled coal. With the polished aplomb of a Yosemite veteran, little Sue stacks both feet together and wiggles on up the orange fat crack above my hanging stance. The climb is named Freestone after freestone peaches; the tower is named "geek" after the chiseled inscription on its spiked summit. The sun crashes down upon us and the fall's crash aside even harder. Six rappels later we are geeks and loving it.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Sep 19, 2017 - 08:37pm PT
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I read your story Tar when you first dropped it.
I remember Hudon saying on that thread "Success on Astroman doesn't guarantee success on Freestone"
Croft dropped the springtime wisdom for the roar of the falls
Glad to hear The Crucifix is harder- this thing is definitely on my priority list to do
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 19, 2017 - 08:50pm PT
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I've been up to the short 11d EAR section of the crucifix three times, and never had the gas to complete it.
Basically cruised Freestone.
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tarallo
Trad climber
italy
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Sep 20, 2017 - 12:32am PT
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I think the Crucifix and Power point are at the same level (harder)
Found Astroman more physicall than Freestone even if the first four pitches of Freestone are mentally more demanding.
For sure if you bail on rostrum not a good idea...
A question:I onsight both the two ow on Freestone(11c) and Power point(11a)
what do you think it is the hardest in your opinion?I think Power point even if on the paper easier...
Ciao
A
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 20, 2017 - 04:33am PT
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Found Astroman more physicall than Freestone even if the first four pitches of Freestone are mentally more demanding. ^ I concur with this.
A question:I onsight both the two ow on Freestone(11c) and Power point(11a)
what do you think it is the hardest in your opinion?I think Power point even if on the paper easier... I've onsighted both as well. I led the Freestone OW, and followed the Power Point OW. Power Point is more endurance (just get in and chug away), while Freestone is more technical and involves the transition into layback.
For me, actual elapsed time spent in OW technique on Freestone was relatively short, as was the distance. Regarding the actual OW on Freestone, it might be overrated, which speaks to your comparative experience. Mostly, the point being they present different types of problems.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Sep 20, 2017 - 05:35am PT
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Tar, how is PowerPoint ow compare to Cream OW ? in term of quality and endurance and difficulty { I think quality is superb on Cream, but difficulty overrated in comparison with other Yosemite 10d ow} ?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 20, 2017 - 05:38am PT
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Tar, how is PowerPoint ow compare to Cream OW ? in term of quality and endurance { I think it is superb on Cream} ? Tail between my legs in shame, and head hanging so very low, I have never done Cream!
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tarallo
Trad climber
italy
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Sep 20, 2017 - 05:46am PT
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Not climbed Cream but compared to Twilight seems correct.
As far as the rock on Power point ow is stellar(only in the first part of the pitch there is a rock that seems a potato chip on the right side of the dihedral).
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 20, 2017 - 05:51am PT
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I thought Twilight Zone (which I followed on-sight, no falls) was harder than either the crux OW of Power Point or Freestone.
Maybe I just get the juices flowing better on multi-pitch climbs.
It's also perhaps the case, that if a climb is within the span of my competency, I find it easier if I lead it.
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tarallo
Trad climber
italy
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Sep 20, 2017 - 06:02am PT
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The last year I replaced the belay bolt of the ow pitch,now you can safely rapel, and I replace the first bolt of the following pitch. I used the same hole of the old bolt(see the picture).
I gave it to a friend of mine with the promise to give it to Werner.
Hope he got it.
Ciao
A
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Sep 20, 2017 - 06:26am PT
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am I gonna die?
Yes..yes, you are.
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